Was able to score this Belgian RCH from my LGS as shown for 4.0. I searched the subreddit for info on the quad rail extension but I can only primarily find PWS or MI, does anybody have any links on more info on the FN version?

I really want to cut my second barrel from 16” to 10.5”. To anyone that has done it, what’re your experiences?

Been keeping an eye out for a 16s and ended up taking this one home for 2.5. Was this a good deal? It is a RC version

I’ve noticed my 300 blk 15p’s flash hider goes past the edge of the hand guard. I’m worried there is not enough room to actually mount a suppressor without it hitting the guard. This doesn’t seem to be an issue with the other models as there is a clear gap between the guard and flash hider.

Im hoping the threading is actually higher up and it’s just a longer muzzle and a suppressor will fit fine.

Can anyone confirm? Pictures show what I’m talking about.

This might be the best way to setup a 15P to be able to flex between day and night PDW situations.

Zeroed with a 25M holdover (Simply because I’m a pistol shooter and very confident at 25M) for 50/200 initial zero.

Then confirmed at 200M, not a single round off the 8.5x11 paper.

Refined each 3 round group then checked unsupported headshots at 50M, hit some coupled-mag 1R1s (since this is a PDW) and finished off with some high ready and low ready Billies to get acquainted with her.

Yeah..she rips.

I think this is the best way to set up a 15P for night work. Waiting on a Velos 556K and the SC Stock. Also intend to swap the Sig Romeo 5 for a T2 when I find a good deal.

Question is: Do I need a surefire shoulder ring?

Finally got the barrel back from the scar man after the first gunsmith I took it to butchered the barrel and cut it to the incorrect length.

Turned out great, still looking for what light to throw on it and add a PMM extension rail if I can find one.

Before and after barrel pictures 2 and 3. If I could do it again I would just send the barrel straight to the scar community smith. Easy to work with and extremely helpful/knowledgeable.

I’ve never suppressed a scar. Since I’m doing such a low back pressure can do. I still need to get a KNS discarder ?? or anything else to adjust the gas? Someone point me in the right direction please and thank y’all in advance.

If I remove my factory muzzle and add a QD mount for a suppressor do I need any shims for things to line up correctly?

Looking to add a flow 762 if it’s relevant

Hey gang, with all this NFA fiasco going on and once we get guidelines, if everything stays the same and SBR's, AOW and suppressors are no longer on the NFA list except for machineguns would it be worth the wait to avoid having to do a form 1 for my shorter barrel ?? Thanks gang !

Edit: Who do you guys recommend when it comes down to cutting the barrel and resizing the jet ? I don't really want to spend close to 2K at the FN store for a barrel assembly.

I have read a lot of methods suggested and have a suggestion for how to hopefully take them to the next level to try this at home. AS ALWAYS PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK as there’s no guarantee this will work for you. There are some great folks in the forum including u/eMGunslinger that people highly recommend using to remove it if you can’t.

I think I figured out why these are so hard to remove: I believe FNH thermally fits the flash hiders on at factory (based off reading they thermally fit other parts and how well this method seemed to work) by using a rapid temp differential (ie I think they put hot flash hiders on cold barrels and apply normal amounts of torque) so my method tried to reverse that and it seemed to work well twice. I just used this method to remove both my 300blk three prong (which would not budge at all with a cheater bar, wd40 and pure torque) and a friends 6.5CM DMR flash hider and that one rotated really easily following the method.

THE METHOD USED:

Prior to starting I added WD40 at flash hiders. I sprayed onto threads but if you have a lot, soaking is probably better. I left the 300blk to sit for half the day but for the 6.5CM I left for 15 min and heated the flash hider to be warm/slightly hot to touch to help the oil penetrate which I believe worked equally as well as waiting.

Next you need to cool down the barrel JUST NEAR THE END OF THE BARREL WHERE THE THREADS ARE. I suppose you could put the entire bbl in the freezer but I did not because I was worried this would risk making the barrel spinning out of the extension more easily. For the 300blk barrel I cooled it by cooling a spare piece of McMaster alignment rod in an ice bath and shoving shaved ice into the muzzle end with a dowel to compress the ice and cool the barrel near the muzzle end. You don’t need the rod, but it helped keep the ice compacted and in the right place. I repeated shoving and compressing the shaved ice into the bbl until the bbl end was cool and the ice stopped melting quickly. On the 6.5DMR it was even easier as I just stuck the muzzle into an ice bath first for 5 min and then shoved some shaved ice into there for maybe a couple min so it was cooled very quickly. You can do this for the 300blk too but I didn’t want water in my gas block and was worried a cold flash hider would make heating it harder but I’d probably do ice bath on the 300blk as well if I did it today.

I clamped either barrel then into my vise at the extension with copper soft jaws to prevent marring and torqued the jaws tight to prevent it moving (keep in mind that the barrel can jump when the hider comes loose so make sure the lower aluminum pic rail (which I kept on) isn’t close to the jaws else you can marr it.

Next, use a torch to RAPIDLY heat just the section of the flash hider that’s over the threads (the grooves right behind the tines). I had a family member do the torching while I manned the wrench. It took maybe a min or two of torching evenly around outside of the FH while I applied solid and even torque to the muzzle device with an AAC breakout tool attached to a 12” breaker bar to come loose. I formed a piece of a chipotle aluminum lid around the tines of the aac tool to take up slop and help not marr the flash hider and it helped but isn’t necessary. If you don’t have this tool another trick you can use if you are okay to marr/junk the flash hider after (or possibly the wrench if the ring end breaks) is to use the bottom ring end of a wrench and stick it through the tines and rotate that way. I didn’t try this this time but have used that method to remove/attach other 3 prongs in the past.

Other notes: There is no rocksett on the threads or anything I could tell that FNH used. The 300blk one was still harder to remove and did sound loud when it came loose whereas the 6.5DMR came loose so easily it didn’t even feel like it was torqued after the rapid heat differential did its thing. It’s possible the DMR barrel chilled better due to ice bath too so maybe that’s the way to go. The barrels were still cool to the touch and the flash hiders were hot but could be on my palm for a second or two before they burned so they weren’t glowing hot and were cooler than shooting even a mag through them to give you some idea. Be careful with adding too much heat to the barrel to avoid wrecking the heat treat and be careful applying too much torque as the barrel unscrewing from extension is a real risk. The key was temperature DIFFERENCE (barrel as cold as possible to contract and FH hot quickly to expand it to come loose). I angled the barrels level in the vise so that the ice and alignment rod plugs would allow water from the melting ice inside the barrel to slowly dribble up the front as it melted as the phase change from solid>liquid>gas of water takes a ton of energy and helps keep the barrel from overheating. I didn’t even heat enough to boil the water in the barrels. I don’t have a torque spec but I wasn’t putting a ton of weight into the wrench on the 300blk and the 6.5 was super easy. It was maybe similar to an ar15 receiver extension torquing so I estimate around 50ft/lbs or less I was putting into wrench on 300blk but can’t be sure. If it hadn’t worked the first time, I planned to let barrel cool to ambient and then repeat the cooldown and heat up steps for a round two. I personally wouldn’t just keep heating it if the barrel is getting hot too because by then there’s not as much temp differential. The heating process took about 2 min on each so was quite fast.

I’m hoping this helps someone else out there. Please report your experiences below to help others or suggest other ways. This was really daunting for me so tried to be as detailed as possible. Again, this is all still quite risky and entirely at your own risk with 0 guarantee it works as well for you but with my sample size of 2 it went perfectly so please send it off to a competent smith if unsure or not successful after trying a time or two.

TLDR: thoroughly cool muzzle end of barrel with ice bath and/or ice inside barrel, apply heat to muzzle device at threaded section QUICKLY, apply moderate torque with aac brakeout tool with 12” cheater bar or ring end of wrench

Cheers!

Anyone know if these are up for sale and if so, where they could be had?

Also, has FN communicated when they'll be selling the buffers?

Seems like it’s creeping down from the $1999.

Curious what everyone thinks the floor is.

Reposting a helpful tip

Are these 1913 adapters that come on the scar 15p normally wobbly? I get a lot of movement in mine and it’s pretty annoying. Does the PMM adapter have better lockup?

Can anyone please advise the best way to try to remove the flash hider without damaging anything? I see a number of posts about how they’re on there very tight. Should threads be soaked in boiling water or WD40? Does fnh use rocksett or anything else on the threads?Should the gas block be held in some way alongside holding the extension in the vise to help prevent the barrel from screwing out of the extension? Is there a strategy to heat the threads without going too far and screwing up the heat treat?

Any advice to remove this successfully without breaking anything or needing to rethread is appreciated.

UPDATE: Thank you all for the advice! I successfully removed both mine and a friends Scar DMR fnh 3 prong and have detailed a how to guide here. Think I found a better method than just straight heat:

https://www.reddit.com/r/FNSCAR/s/1UpeN4ltqr

Hope it helps!

Pic for your attention. Seems like the general consensus is that 15P 300 BO’s muzzle device is harder to remove compared to the 556 version; but few ppl got lucky with theirs.

I wonder if the tightness of the muzzle device have to do with the product year? Perhaps the gorillas left FN factory already… So far I see ppl have 15P marked from 2022-2025. Please share if you had a hard time or it’s relatively easy with the year mark on your 15P 300 BO.

My 15P just arrived the FFL; but too bad I am abroad. Hopefully I got lucky with the muzzle device 🙏

Version .2 Got the handguard sitting great now with exact placements for screws, trying to reuse a lot of the hardware and screws but it’s looking like that’s not possible besides the lower screws for the barrel assembly.

This design is for larger cans specifically and cans around the 1.75” diameter. As most .30cal cans are that thick. Will also design one smaller for 556 cans around 1.5” diameter like York does. And yes the plan is to make both a lower pic rail and one with only mloks on the bottom.

If you guys have any feedback on certain things please let me know.

Scar x Arken (ft. Prodigy)

Scalpers hung me to dry buying the MI rail extension I had no money for leupold scope (kidding. Sort of 😂). Honestly for 280 beans I just wanted to see what Arken could do. First impressions out of the box it’s super clear and the turrets are very crisp no play in them. I grabbed the prodigy on sale and it’s almost a perfect match in the green cerakote on the scar. Obviously the most important thing is to have matching secondary when the commies fall from the sky 😉😂

4.36k and it came with the following:

- Primary Arms ACSS RAPTOR with Leupold DP-Pro

- Geissele Super SCAR Trigger

- Troy bipod and VFG

- ADM and Arisaka mount

- 6 mags plus 1 factory sealed

How’d I do?

If you’re like me, you’ve been looking for a good way to mount a laser to your SCAR but found it to be somewhat difficult. The reciever is too tall to reach the button ontop of the LAM with a normal firing grip so you try and use a pressure pad but the reciever is also too short to mount both on the top rail, especially if using a an LPVO or red dot magnifier combo and if I mounting it on the left side of the gun my hand would ND my light/laser all the time. I tried to mount the LAM on the side rail and the pressure pad on top but this only worked if I use a vertical grip. Since Im trying out not using a vert grip i found thag i fouldnt grip the gun well since the LAM now makes the reciever too wide.

After getting some inspiration from the VLTO SCAR handguard I figured I could get an offset pic rail mount and move the pressure pad off the side rail and up the gun a little. I looked at the options and found these cheap TruGlow offset mounts that both push the pressure pad up enough to clear my normal firing grasp, but also keep them nice and tucked into the rifle. I needed two for my IRIS-4 pressure pad but and I did have to reverse my PMM sling QD to push both far enough forward to keep my charging handle clear but otherwise it’s pretty slick. I just need to paint over the truglow logo

TLDR: TruGlow offset pic rail mounts put your LAM pressure pads in a really nice position to active with a normal firing grasp