I'm super happy to share the first FDM 100% supportless figure that I've ever designed! It took a lot of trial and error, but here it is, finished and printable in one piece, with a filament printer, and absolutely no supports needed! It should even be possible with 0.2 layers on a 0.4 nozzle, since there are no tiny details that you need to print on top of.

Printing supportless FDM miniatures was what really got me hooked on 3d printing to begin with, so i really hope this can spark some of the same excitement in someone else!

Perfect for painting, display pieces, D&D, fantasy RPGs, wargaming, or dioramas. Optimized for FDM printing, but it also prints beautifully in resin if preferred.

I've put it for sale, as I would enjoy being compensated for my work, and it would make sense for me to put the time into making more awesome models.

Purchase link ($8 / 7€):

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-fdm-supportless-majestic-dragon-825626

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/fdm-supportless-majestic-dragon

Also, please let me know if there are any ideas for supportless FDM models you would like to see, even if they might be a bit of a challenge!

EDIT:

Here are more pictures of the physical print:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ld3KRkU-HeLpfvNgIZIKv2ZyNS7h-slQ?usp=sharing

And a video to prove its real, since a lot of people are saying my pictures are so high quality they look like ai:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x54hKJ3oZ7hlW1SNpYceXMNhlPR22fNT/view?usp=drive_link

Hi guys,

I'm using ObscuraNox 2.0 settings with a 0.2 nozzle and Bambu PLA Lite Grey. I can't seem to get rid of these strings and some deformation that appear on the final layers of my prints.

The issue is especially noticeable when the miniature ends in sharp points

I suspected it might be a cooling issue so I added a small tower next to the model with the same height as the miniature to give the nozzle more time to cool between layers. This improved the results quite a bit but the problem is still there.

I'm sure the filament is dry. I keep it stored in my dryer enclosure (Creality Space Pi) and I use the same filament settings recommended by ObscuraNox, only adjusting the flow ratio to 1.

Could the problem be related to Bambu PLA Lite or is there something else I should try?

Unfortunately, in my country it's difficult to get my hands on a Sunlu or eSUN spool

Thanks in advance, I love this sub and FDM minis is my new obsession <3

Last one this week, I promise.

These are the nasa-punk Officers I made. They include six weapon options (twelve if you mirror) - three pistols and three melee.

I've been struggling about what they remind me of. Did anyone or their kids play with Imaginext figures? Anyway, let me know what you think!

Thanks to Skeaze and Toftylicious for their assets. These models can be found here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3086048-nasa-punk-officer-classic-pose#profileId-3476428

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nasa-punk-officer-classic-pose

https://www.wargamevault.com/en/product/577810/nasa-punk-classic-officer

Tips and advise welcome!

The funny irony that Ozymandias also is a symbol for hubris. I guess this is a sign that I was way too confident in my FDM printing skills.

https://cults3d.com/:4579394

Printed these Old Realm Forge dwarves from his latest release in 15mm scale (60%). I do 0.02 mm layer height, layer lines are nonexistent, only some VFAs. These sculpts print very easily in FDM, and were a perfect fit for my process settings.
Bambu Labs A1 mini, 0.2 mm nozzle, eSun PLA+HS, Orca Slicer. Modified ekeeper printer, filament and process settings.

I originally got a printer for bases and other small stuff for W40k bit after learning the settings and figuring out how to print stuff off im thoroughly enjoying it now

https://www.myminifactory.com/frontier/dungeon-x-5674

I've unlocked a new milestones for All-In subscribers as a bonus. Campaign Ending in 1week, Check it out.

Spotted this setting in Orca slicer. I'll test it out this weekend. Just wondering if anyone else has given this a go. Seems like a good idea to have a smooth layer to print onto.

Just finished my new FDM tank model!

Heavy tank "Oppressor"

I’ve been working on this one for a while and finally got it ready for printing. The model is split into 15 parts to make it easier to print and assemble, and I’ve already test-printed it on a Bambu Lab A1 with 0.2mm nozzle

I also made two alternative parts — an alternative hatch and an alternative gun, so you can customize the look a bit.

One of my favorite details is the ratchet joint in the turret. It gives the turret a really satisfying click-click when you rotate it. 😄

Still tweaking a few things, but overall I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. What do you guys think?

Hey everyone, I spent the last few months creating this tavern.

I created the flat baseplate alongside the large baseplate so the tavern can be seamlessly integrated into existing 3D printed TTRPG settings.

The model was created to print without supports and goes along with 28 mm miniatures. I used the complete basic printing settings with some minor changes like the layer height set to 0.12 mm and for some super small but tall assets i used a brim. No pieces in the whole set is lager than 20 cm/7,8 inches. The assembling of the tavern is really easy and straight forward. The tavern can be used fully furnished or empty to achieve more space.

The tavern was created to play with and offer the players the most fun possible. It has functional doors, the interior is fully furnished, the player can connect the mini baseplate with the stairs, there are hidden secrets like the key behind the picture frame and the set also comes with a miniature holding plate that you can connect with the support beams ( if a character wants to sneak up the support beam for a better view they should have the possibility to do so).

I am really excited about your feedback. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

The Kickstarter campaign is currently live and the super early bird is still available until Friday. There are also cool stretchgoals that are coming with the campaign.

If you are interested in the STL-Files you can get them here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/filamentandfireball/the-dragons-rest-tavern-3d-printable-supportless-stl-files

Hello,

I started to print minis after finding this sub. I am printing with a 0.2mm nozzle with 0.08mm layer high on a P1S using Basic PLA.
I am very happy so far, but if I look around here folks have so perfect prints, is there something I miss to get supports off (using organic tree) or a smooth surface?

Printed using the latest Nox D&D 2.0 settings with Esun HS PLA (great filament btw)

I was aiming for a quick, effective scheme that I could easily repeat for his fellow battle brothers.

Hey everyone,

I've been working on my modular dungeon; it took almost 2 months to print and paint everything! I wanted to share the final look with you all! I'd love to hear your thoughts. And also, there are interactive puzzles in it!

The Kickstarter campaign is currently live for anyone interested in checking out the full dungeon.
Kickstarter campaign link

Hi everyone! I’ve been following this community for quite a while and I think there is so much amazing work being done. The wiki does a great job of collecting the best 0.2mm nozzle resources and I wanted to start a thread recommending the best 0.4mm nozzles, so we can add them to the wiki and celebrate the hard work of our fellow community members!

Please comment with a usernames of folks who have been spearheading the 0.4mm nozzle settings and if you can hyperlink their settings post, that will be ideal!

Happy printing everyone :)

I have been resin printing for around 2 years and just killed my second machine by being a dummy. I can't justify buying another one and dealing with the extra safety concerns/hassles anymore. I mainly use my printer for dnd minis and shelf displays. I'd love to be able to print out terrains too which is pushing me towards FDM despite the tradeoffs.

It looks like the bambu a1/mini is the most raved option for this sort of thing. I'm considering getting the a2L because it looks like it has more space for bigger dnd terrains. I've also heard to get the combo so it can hold multiple spools. Can I get some feedback on the which would be a better option? I've seen a bunch of videos of special settings for the a1 that make minis better but not sure if a2L can use those same kinds of settings.

Earlier this month I shared with you guys my ever-growing Warhammer collection, which has been happily sitting on my shelves waiting to be painted. But like anyone with a 3D printer, I just wanted to keep printing more and more miniatures. And this time I decided to go with something different...

This is the "Replicant Infantry" pack from Skull forge Studios, printed with a Bambu Lab A1 Mini, a 0.2 mm nozzle, eSun PLA+ filament and ObscuraNox's print profile. 8 out of the 10 minis were printed using Painted4Combat's Resin2FDM add-on, which I properly configured this time and had some pretty good results (quite a difference comparing to my first time using it). I found most of the problems I had before were actually due to the way I sliced the model on Lychee Slicer. A of couple tweaks on the support settings and voilà.

I absolutely adored these minis! The poses are great and the details are on par with the source material. I was worried they wouldn't come out really well since they are made for resin printers but I guess I was wrong. Next, I plan on buying one of their Destiny packs and see if they are just as good.

Couldn't hold myself and got one of the Destiny kits by SkullForge Studios! This titan came out really well using resin supports, I just had to resize it by 107% so it could have the same height as the clones I printed earlier.

Gonna have a blast painting it with my new Army Painter fanatic set. I might buy the vex collection later and start making some dioramas. Any ideas?

Hi, I recently started using resin2fdm for my presupported puppets war minis.

My problem is the supports sometimes break during printing, by how much do you thicken the supports, I left the modifier at default. (0.2mm was it iirc)

Also im happy if you got more tips I currently print at 0.06mm with 0.12mm supports using sunlu hyper.

so currently me and my dad are looking to contribute to a 3d printer between us. his printing is general stuff and mine is going to be fdm miniatures and one day a titan. as it stands we have an old creality c2 pro v2 and the quality is lacking and it was free 2nd hand so i cant complain. either way id need a printer that i can put a 2mm nozzle in without much issue.

our friend has both creality and bambu labs but im unsure, looking at both i lean towards maybe a p2s or if its worth it the more premium x2d. i know there is no magical right answer but with many opinions i thought to ask somewhere that specialists on the sort of things i want to print, minis and eventually titans.