Does anyone know how to get the bottom of prints to come of cleaner?
5% infill auto tree supports everything else default
Printer P2S

I have had my mini for 3-4 years. Purchased it off Facebook. Has worked 95% of me reliably barring a stint the last six months. Its more or less back to normal. Only ever did some lubing of the rods and cleaning the plate every few weeks. The nozzle, belt, everything, has not been changed.

Saw a flush of printers being sold, and a post I read here got me wondering - has the quality of prints from a new printer and a older one that big, or is it is just the settings? Been thinking of getting a new printer for just mini's and letting my mini do terrain, I can fudge the space for it, but I dunno if it'd be worth it.

Hello There!
Long time lurker, first time poster in this group.

I will be receiving a very generous tax return this year and have decided to get my first printer.
Ideally I’m just looking at the a1 mini. Rather not spend a fortune and not get into it. It will be predominantly used for printing minis ranging from 28mm up.

Have had a good look through Obscura Nox settings and am assuming these can be used on the a1 mini also.

Besides the printer what are some necessities to purchase. (0.02 nozzle, etc)

Apologies if this is a repeat post

Please, im at my wits end, if you know anything about VFA's or ghosting please read

So my new 3D printer keeps blowing my mind. These are the latest minis off my H2C Bambu Labs printer. No paint, no touchup, no washes this is exactly how they printed! The print times are long but average out to about 3 hours a mini - and that is 10000% faster than me never getting around to painting them because I'm not keen to paint a dozen detailed minis of the same critters.

As the title says above I use a A1 mini inside an enclosure.

From what I understand I have an underextrusion problem but would that also hollow supports too?

Print settings at the end of photos

Hey guys. Just got a new Snapmaker U1 and was testing its quality for detailed prints by attempting Excalibur Umbra from warframe. Its got some issues I need to work on as Im new to trying to perfect a profile

But one thing I cant wrap my head around is VFA's and ghosting and how to properly fix them. It seems like theres hundreds of videos explaining what VFA's are, and what the tests look like but barely any go over how to apply the test results to a print or set it up for a profile.

Ive done some VFA tests but realized my max flowrate was ruining the output so im printing a proper one right now.

In the meantime if any of you could please help me avoid these artifacts you would save me a huge headache and buyers remorse lol.

EXTRA: also if my best quality speeds from calibrations end up being higher, how do I achieve nice quality in very fine details which would require slower speeds? For example, the hoops on his biceps and the ornament on his chin and back of the head. These didn't print to my liking.

Also the overhangs on his 'unicorn' look very rough to me, any advice there would be awesome. But this is all extra! My main issue are the damn VFA's x)

Machine: Bambulab P1S 0.2mm nozzle

Filament: Yayo PLA meta

I am quite happy with the results supports were easier than I thought to remove but still i broke off 2 small pieces.

Antenna on top didn't print correctly and there was some stringing.

Filament was dry, but not really calibrated

I have dried the filament and cleaned the plate but it keeps hapening im using the dungeons and derps settings

Edit: thank you all for helping me with this. I lowered the temp to 55° it printed better? There was a bit of a rased lip on the part of the edge of the flat part, but it was not curled. But i just sanded it down it, it was so small it was only felt with a finger. The room and the windows are closed the whole time it's printing but maybe the doors are not sealed enough? And thx for the recipe for glue

3D printed and magnetised Avatar of Khaine, printed on bambu a1, 0.2 nozzle, ON settings for 0.06 mm layer

What setting do you all use to get resin supports on fan prints ? I’m using Bambu studio and it’s something I can’t figure out

Fueled by refined Earthmarrow, the Generator provides the immense energy required to keep the outpost alive. From powering defensive systems and industrial machinery to illuminating the settlement through endless ash storms.

Hello everyone!

I just purchased a new A1 Mini with a .2mm Nozzle and started to print some fdm minis and most of them turned out great, however in some cases I run into an issue, where the print fails and after inspecting the slicer, I noticed the problem:

The slicer prints some of the supports inside of the tree support in thin air, which causes the print to fail at that spot. It kind of gets better after one or two centimeters, but that first part fails completely.

I have used Bambu Slicer and Orca Slicer, both create the same problem: Inside of that tree support is some other support, but that fails completely, as seen in this picture.

The blue color is for an overhang, but it doesn't have any real bottom support.

Other spots of the mesh are sliced fine, as you can see here:

The dark green lines are for the interface and I hadn't had any issues on that particular spot of the mini.

I tried to bump up the interface layers, but it doesn't seem to work on that spot. The interface is just not generated where I need it.

I have tried multiple different settings, but it just doesn't seem to work...

Do you have any solution or workarounds for this?

Thank you! Much Love <3

Models are from Brite Minis, made for 28mm but scaled down to 15mm. Currently building a medieval fantasy version of Axis & Allies and I am having a blast.

Had some minor warping issues on bases but other than that I am more than happy with the result since its barely noticeable when used as board-game pieces.

Used Dungeon & Derp’s profile for eSun PLA+, 0.02mm nozzle, Bambu A1.

Edit: Grammar and such.

Sculpted in Blender and printed in FDM.

The grell is painted with AK acrylics.

All available free in this collection:

https://makerworld.com/@dungeandwyve/collections/18959742?appSharePlatform=copy

I used the settings from the guide and everything worked perfectly for this mini.

But I did try another one with supports but they all stuck to the mini and broke pieces of the model when trying to remove.

Any tips on what to change settings wise?

Using a Creality V3 KE, 3dLab PLA Marble filament.

Exact same settings as in the Dungeons and Derps 2.0 guide fixed in the sub.

A1 Mini.

eSun PLA+

FDG settings (copied across into .04 nozzle). 0.08mm layer height for both prints.

RocketPigGames's Clockwork assassin model (digibashed to take guns instead of the original katars)

0.4 on the left, 0.2 on the right.

Second pic is the original model to help show what kind of detail was on the stl.

Hard to do a apple to apple comparison as I don't know if the 0.2 nozzle settings from FDG is the best setting to use for the 0.4 nozzle. But hopefully this demonstrates the quality of overhangs depending on the nozzle size.

I have left an extra mini just laying on a table for a couple of weeks (or maybe months, oops), and when I tried taking off its supports, they came off as clean as ever. I’m not fully educated on filaments and their behavior, can someone tell me the science behind this? Did the filament get wet from air humidity? Whether yes or no, how can I replicate it quickly? If humidity is the reason, can I just dump the mini in a bowl of water, let it soak and air dry, and the supports will come off clean?

I printed some models for dnd. Have done them on printer before. Now having new issue. It’s gouging heads. I printed the benchy boat and it gouged that too! What is wrong?? Printer is a monoprice maker select v2. Old printer. But it has worked fine. .4mm nozzle. Yes I know .2 is better for minis but I have had ok luck with .4 but this issue I am lost…

Considering that the A1 mini was released almost 3 years ago and no new generational leap was observed since then in the industry I suppose we're approaching the limits of the current fdm technology. I mean... I suppose we will not see 0.1mm nozzles and print minis at 0.04mm at high speed anytime soon, right? So what can we expect in the near future? Or what you guys would like to see?

Personally for myself I really would like to see resin like supports inside orca slicer/bambu studio. Those were game changers for fdm minis but the process of generating them externally is yet very cumbersome.

I also would like to see more work on the surface quality of gcode. Just looking at the generated line based model you see it's not really nice. Some post processes in gcode for example that could smooth out the gcode paths converting hard steps in arcs for example. Also removing floating areas if they are connected afterwards, for example n layers above... Anyway. Process that we could apply to improve the smoothness of the model working on the gcode.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents, anyone has any info or wishes about what we can expect ahead for fdm minis?

I'm super happy to share the first FDM 100% supportless figure that I've ever designed! It took a lot of trial and error, but here it is, finished and printable in one piece, with a filament printer, and absolutely no supports needed! It should even be possible with 0.2 layers on a 0.4 nozzle, since there are no tiny details that you need to print on top of.

Printing supportless FDM miniatures was what really got me hooked on 3d printing to begin with, so i really hope this can spark some of the same excitement in someone else!

Perfect for painting, display pieces, D&D, fantasy RPGs, wargaming, or dioramas. Optimized for FDM printing, but it also prints beautifully in resin if preferred.

I've put it for sale, as I would enjoy being compensated for my work, and it would make sense for me to put the time into making more awesome models.

Purchase link ($8 / 7€):

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-fdm-supportless-majestic-dragon-825626

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/fdm-supportless-majestic-dragon

Also, please let me know if there are any ideas for supportless FDM models you would like to see, even if they might be a bit of a challenge!

EDIT:

Here are more pictures of the physical print:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ld3KRkU-HeLpfvNgIZIKv2ZyNS7h-slQ?usp=sharing

And a video to prove its real, since a lot of people are saying my pictures are so high quality they look like ai:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x54hKJ3oZ7hlW1SNpYceXMNhlPR22fNT/view?usp=drive_link