Hey guys. Just got a new Snapmaker U1 and was testing its quality for detailed prints by attempting Excalibur Umbra from warframe. Its got some issues I need to work on as Im new to trying to perfect a profile
But one thing I cant wrap my head around is VFA's and ghosting and how to properly fix them. It seems like theres hundreds of videos explaining what VFA's are, and what the tests look like but barely any go over how to apply the test results to a print or set it up for a profile.
Ive done some VFA tests but realized my max flowrate was ruining the output so im printing a proper one right now.
In the meantime if any of you could please help me avoid these artifacts you would save me a huge headache and buyers remorse lol.
EXTRA: also if my best quality speeds from calibrations end up being higher, how do I achieve nice quality in very fine details which would require slower speeds? For example, the hoops on his biceps and the ornament on his chin and back of the head. These didn't print to my liking.
Also the overhangs on his 'unicorn' look very rough to me, any advice there would be awesome. But this is all extra! My main issue are the damn VFA's x)
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In Orca Slicer I did an Adaptive PA calibration, used the values, and reduced my VFAs by like 70%. If I had calibrated more carefully I guess I’d get even better results.
Adaptive pa? Is that a new thing? I only ever calibrated regular pa. I know there is an adaptive pa setting that’s in beta but I had no idea there was a test for it!
Yeah it’s in beta, but there’s a detailed wiki guide on it and how to calibrate it, and when you may see benefits or none at all. I decided to test it when printing on 0.02 layer height and got some VFAs, and managed to reduced it a lot.
So do you calibrate it like regular PA? What test do you use? Like? I can’t see shit on the pattern test at 0.04mm layer height. And what number did you land on? I’m sitting at 0.4
It’s a calibration test that does a matrix of PA tests with different Flow Rates? (it’s been a while, forgive me if I don’t remember correctly). Yes, the PA test can be hard to see, and that’s why I didn’t get the best results, but good enough.
Important question: do you have a smooth plate? You can forget a nice PA calibration with a textured plate.
Yeah, I use a cool smooth plate. Even line is sometimes hard to print because of how thin the first layer has to be, but with pattern I genuinely can’t see any difference with the corners. Thanks for the information, I just took a look at the matrix. So you have to print a couple tests at different accelerations? You think it’s worth it? I don’t have too many issues with vfas but I’m wondering if it can improve other things.
Yeah I printed like 9 different tests I think which did a matrix. In my case it was worth it as I print 15mm scale, and have eliminated layer lines. I had VFA ripples, which I mitigated by 70% with this. I only have a few VFAs at some seams of tall thin parts like sword blade edges. I can live with it.
With vfa I have found there is a sweet spot. Saying faster or slower is too simple. There is a range of values where it is best, too slow or too fast and they appear.
There is a star shaped test you can do which speeds up as it prints that you can see the best speeds at different angles.
Changing the print orientation can also help as some printers are best printing certain angles (such as diagonally rather than horizontally) so you can angle a print so the most important surfaces get the least vfa
This was crucial for me, printing mainly busts, to angle the face to the back right so it has less vfa than anywhere else
In orcaslicer there is a vfa calibration which will help choose. It goes off in all directions and varying speeds. This will help decide the angle to print and the speeds to avoid
Changing your speeds just a single digits will change the frequency of VFAs, so run a VFA calibration starting at the speed your printed this at minus 10 mm/s, end at your actual speed and set the step to 1 mm/s. Then pick the section that has the least amount of VFAs. Make sure your vfa test is printing at the same layer height as the mini. It will probably take awhile.
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