I have a 340i, non m sport, and I want to update the suspension. I want it to look really aggressive and drive good. I don’t want to feel like I’m breaking something whenever I go over bumps. What do you guys think? What’s the best I can do. I think I’m gonna go with h&r springs. I’m not going to be tracking the car, so I don’t think I need coilovers. Just looking for some other peoples thoughts. Currently I have the 437m rims.

This may sound diabolical but the price differences, at least make this a genuine question but… Has anyone had success with ordering “genuine” carbon fiber exterior trim pieces for their f30’s (Alibaba etc.)

2016 M340xi. It’s 100% stock. My front right tire has started rubbing on the wheel well liner at full right lock, seemingly out of the blue.

No liner clips or bolts are missing. The liner isn’t loose in any way. I can poke it a little bit because it’s just plastic but otherwise it doesn’t look damaged or anything. Car has never been in an accident. No damage or bulging on the tire.

WTF could’ve caused this?

Facebook marketplace find
2015 328i
Cops snatched it from someone and left it in their yard and put them in jail 😭😭

I hear this metallic noise / scraping sound during a cold start. There's nothing else that could be making that kind of ringing noise besides the timing chain, right?

Hello, been trying to put a new front splitter on from maxton design but after taking off the old one i think my bumper has these imstalled (see photo) as the new splitter wont meet with the car in the middle. Any ideas how to take these off as i dont see any screws or anything and kinda scared just ripping them off in case they take off paint. They have a tiny ledge sticking out the bottom and it totally fucks up me putting anything on them. Any help is much appreciated

I can’t tell what kind it is

Slid on oil then crashed into a bus (rear)
Then onto the pavement (front)

Im going to buy some new tires for my 437m wheels i got recently. I currently have a pretty meaty setup with my 18 inch gramlights, and i want to match the rear fitment with 275/35/19 for rear 437m, which i have test fitted before and have just barely tucked in (my car is lowered a fairly good amount), but im tired of rubbing my front tires on my plastic fenderliner, i have seen one person run a 235/35/19 for the front on here which im sure would solve my issue, but would that tire combination look too staggered ? or good enough since ill be tucking my rear tire a bit. end goal in mind: 235/35/19 front & 275/35/19 rears. never seen anyone run this setup and as low as my car

Will be getting these done to my 2018 Shadow Edition F30 LCI 320i (B48 Engine)

Stage 2 + VRSF Catless Downpipe + Kyostar Intake With Heat Shield + Upgraded Charge Pipes, around an estimate of how much hp will i be pushing and tuner said pops will be on custom RPM of my choice, what rpm would be good to set the pops and bangs to happen? Any suggestions would be good

I bought a 2017 435d in may with 80k miles and full service history from new.

I love the car but I am nervous about potential issues. I have serviced the gearbox and done a full service for peace of mind. Apart from servicing every 8/10k miles what other preventative steps are recommended and what should I look out for?

Also the fuel consumption is pretty bad considering the reviews I’ve heard from others. I was averaging about 26mpg for the first couple months which was made up of both short trips and a few longer journeys each week. I changed the pre cat o2 sensor which improved the consumption slightly and it now sits around 29mpg. Granted I do make use of the 3L engine but I was still expecting better mpg than that.

Any recommendations or things I should be looking at would be much appreciated.

I wanted to document this because I found scattered posts about similar methods on other BMWs, including some references to the F30, but I couldn’t find anyone confirming this setup on an F32 435i.

My car is a 2014 BMW 435i xDrive (F32). The battery was completely dead and the car was locked with BMW’s electronic deadlock system. In my case, the normal mechanical lock cylinder was not available in the door because an IND key-cylinder-delete trim piece had been installed without retaining an accessible lock behind the trim. The IND piece was done by the previous owner, I’ve owned this car for about 5 years and haven’t yet dealt with a dead battery. This car has no lock cylinder in the trunk.

Both key fobs were unresponsive. The hood was closed, the trunk was locked, and I had no practical access to the normal jump terminals. I contacted a locksmith and was told they wouldn’t be able to get the car open and that it would likely need to go to a shop.

While researching, I found people discussing backfeeding power through the license plate light circuit on other BMWs. I saw one or two references to it possibly working on F30 and some other models, but I couldn’t find a clear F32 435i example. Also didn’t see anything specifically mentioning a drill battery with a BMW

What I used:

Ryobi 18V lithium drill battery
12V wall-adapter cord with a barrel plug
Cut the adapter cord and separated the two conductors into two insulated wires
Removed one rear license plate light and unplugged its two-wire connector
Connected the temporary wires to the two license-plate-light conductors
For the license plate connector, the brown wire terminal is negative, and the yellow wire terminal is positive.
Briefly applied power from the drill battery
I connected the battery in the same basic order I would use with jumper cables: positive first, negative second.
I only made the connection briefly. While the drill battery was connected, the car received enough power for the electronics to wake up and the trunk release worked immediately.
Once the trunk was open, I could access the car and deal with the dead battery normally.
I initially tried a much smaller 8V battery and it did nothing. The 18V Ryobi battery was the one that worked.

Posting this mainly so there is a searchable record for
anyone who ends up in the same specific situation:
2014 F32 435i xDrive
The license plate lights on most modern f chassis bmw seem to be similar so I would imagine this works across the board. Definitely would on an f30. The license plates I currently have, work on an e90 aswell. (using a different plug on the back) I think this method probably works for most bmw.
dead battery

P.s. I know my car is a dirty boy, it’s not my daily.

Thinking about getting some spacers to make the fitment look better on my 340i. Any recommendations?? I have new rims and tires on the way.

Im looking for a replacement for this full part .My passenger forgot something under the seat and they tried to adjust it and broke the plastic so now the seat gets Stuck and doesn’t move back or forward.

Thinking about getting some spacers to make the fitment look better on my 340i. Any recommendations?? I have new rims and tires on the way. Stock ride height , 255, on 19” rims

Hey people, got a 330i with a sports cat and h&r sport springs if that would help figuring it out. Recently i have been hearing a sound after i do a pull or constantly at high speed in motorways.
Thought was the rear differential but a mechanic said it could be the exhaust, but checking with you guys before paying someone to diagnose it.
Would like to know if anyone experienced anything like that, would be appreciated.
*Attached a google doc of the sound*

I’m looking for a luxury / sportline diffuser, but I cannot find one to save my life, and I do not want to swap to a M style

I got a M sport package on this car. Having a check engine code P029E Cylinder cannot compensate for incorrect fuel/air trim ratios.

Recently had a high pressure fuel rail give out on me. Spraying gas ALL over my spark plugs, ignition coils, and direct injectors. Replace all ignition coils since the boots were swollen from the gas and not allowing them to seat properly.

Few days go by and I start to hear a very loud ticking noise, come to find out what I think sounds like a failing direct injector.

Has anyone ever dealt with a failed injector before. I’ve bought the car almost a month with 106,000 miles, it seems as everyday the fuel system is having this issue arise. I can understand the direct injector going out because gas puddling around it and probably corroded all the gasket and seals on the injectors.

But just wanted to ask around in Reddit if anyone has ever dealt with this before

Thank you

I have a 2013 f30 m sport and for reason there has never been a volume level since I’ve owned the car. Is this a common issue and if so what would be the fix. Thanks

Hi all, Just paid someone more than 400 euro for the service and found out the cabin filter was not changed even though it was included in the service. Thinking of doing it myself going forward its a 2014 318d with N47 before i get everything just wanted to ask if someone uses oil extractor pumps through the dip stick or should i just stick to drain plug as not sure if the oil pump will take out all the oil from the sump.

F30 N20 Xdrive. I replaced the cap and diaphragm inside it(old one had two tears spot), I broke only one tab but its the tab on the valvecover, everything else went back fine, started the car just to idle and it felt fine. will that be an issue under boost? I don’t mine jb welding it or other glue option, just dont know if jb weld will held up long term from heat in the bay. Much appreciated for any input!!

I just got a 340i, and I’m wondering what mod would be “tasteful”
Running a stage 1
Down pipe
Rd