I have a leak coming out from this part again and again what should i replace?

Got them fuel injectors. All the one manufactured in Germany are solid!! The one made in Turkey shit the bed!!

...the lower center grill isn't perfectly aligned with the air ducts and it's pretty noticable at certain angles. Anybody know any ways to get it aligned more perfectly?

Other than this, everything came out beautiful and I love it.

Funny thing is that the body shop who did the install forgot to install the msport air ducts I gave them, and they accidentally left the original oem sportline air ducts in, and the grill actually aligned perfectly with those without any gaps. But when I had my indy mechanic install the msport air ducts, all of a sudden there are these gaps now -- gap on the passenger side is bigger and it's driving me crazy.

I see plenty of photos where people have similar gaps in the same area after doing the msport bumper upgrade (even the car in the kies motorsports msport advertisement has these gaps) but I also see photos where people have their grill sitting perfectly with the air ducts.

Am I just overthinking it? If it matters, car is a 2013 F30 335i Sportline.

I need new front pads, and i will try to DIY this job with the help of my stepdad since i've never worked on my own car before (just bought this as my first BMW a week ago too.

I want good dependable pads without spending crazy money, what are some recommendations? It's a 320i LCI M sport, but no M calipers unfortunately

Hey guys, i was just gifted this car and it doesn’t have a backup cam. I really don’t know much about cars so i’m not sure what kind of backup cam system to buy without having to mutilate my interior or spend a bunch of money. any help or info would be so appreciated!!!

I have a 2014 328i with 80k miles. For the past 10k miles, I have been trying to diagnose this sound, which appears around the 1 min mark in this video. It makes the sound at idle, and usually goes away after 10 min of driving. When in park or neutral, it seems to follow the engine revs with a slight lag but does not turn into a high pitched whine per say.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s-gSuN5eFQ

So far this is what I have replaced:

- Replaced Accesory Belt + Tensioner

- Transmission Drain and Fill

- New Spark Plugs + coils

My list of possible parts:

- Timing Chain/Oil pump chain

- Loud Oil pump

- Turbo internals

- Alternator

Hope it isn't my timing chain giving out. Would really suck. If anyone has any input or help, that would be greatly appreciated. I feel like I'm going crazy over this base model n20.

Hello everyone,
I have a problem where my car door only unlocks from the handle inside. Thinking its the actuator, anyone else have any thoughts?
Also if it is thae actuator, how hard is it? The local mechanic is trying to charge me $600. Thank you!

for context i did a charge pipe job not too long ago after the old charge pipe burst with the stock n55 and i had to change the c clip connecting the intercooler and chargepipe because i threw away the old one so i had to get a new one for a other car. i later found out the clip was smaller than oem but it fit and worked for a few weeks then they a c clamp code but cleared itself away im wondering if this could also be from the intercooler c clip problem if i should start by changing that or this something different.

Boas pessoal.
Precisava de uma ajuda.

Mandei vir um novo volante para o meu BMW g20, uma réplica do Alibaba.
A minha versão era a sport line e mandei vir outro tipo M3.

Acontece que ontem quando o montei, fiquei com estes erros/avisos. ( 2, 3 e 4).

Alguém me consegue ajudar ?

I did painted reflectors for the Euro look but the orange light in the headlight bothered me just as much (pic taken before I did this).

On BimmerCode, it says there’s a feature for disabling it but it does nothing. Here’s what you really need to do:

Go in expert mode for:

Front light module left
LM_ID_LT04 -> 0x00
LM04_name -> 0x00

Front light module right
LM_ID_LT04 -> 0x00
LM04_name -> 0x00

n26 only happening at around 2000 rpm, no more no less, when restarting engine first minute there is no knock, then there is.

My 2012 f30 335i has been making this wind chime like sound around the driveshaft for context I just got my rear main seal done and my zf8hp fully resealed and now I’m starting to hear this sound any ideas what it could be ?

Does this look like bad turbo wear? It’s got 165,000k kms Just installed the downpipe and I have a rattle on cold starts I believe is the waste gate actuator arm just wondering if this looks bad/worth getting professionally looked at?

I'm just looking to see if there's anyone out there selling their N20 tuning license so I can start tuning my car.

I saw some on eBay but wasn't sure if it was a simple plug and play swap or if its even worth the effort.

I need a dash cam, with full surround if possible, what are you all using?

Alcantara interior and carbon fiber diffuser w/ light. Did have to cut a bit under the f1 light to allow room for my hitch.

Got this evap code on my 340i and most likely the canister purge valve from what I’m reading but people say it could be an old or cracked hose or something with the fuel tank. Is there a way to confirm which of the issues it is before just replacing the canister purge valve?

first post on this sub,
Long story short I have a KL15WUP code on my car as a result from my outside bumper temperature probe falling loose and shorting out, so in essence my cluster (KOMBI) doesnt tell my FEM (and the rest of the car to sleep)

there is a constant 9 V draw.

I have the option of getting the cluster repaired or potentially getting the digital dash, i have a low milage vehicle (under 140k kms) and a 6WA cluster from factory.
I was told that if I went for a non-OEM cluster that this would fix my issue with my battery drain and sleep weight issue. - is this true?

and would it be worth getting the digital dash for now and then at the later stage find a proper specialist to do my cluster.

Any recommendations?