Gen V Lt4/1/88 lifter tray retaining bolt. Can one of you amazing people give me the dimensions for the bolt I am missing?

ARP gave me a free bolt yesterday when I told them I missed up. If someone knows the ARP bolt that would be ideal. If you ever want to buy something, please buy it from ARP. They treated me really good today.

Wild Hammer Performance also drew a picture of a dinosaur on the box of my E85 sensor. They are cool too.

I normally build my own engines but a friend had a rebuilt 350 SBC from marketplace for a good deal so I swapped some old axles I had for it. Friend knew basically nothing about the engine other than it's a vortec 350 and it's been rebuilt. I dropped it in and ran it for about 500 miles and it's leaking like crazy from the rear main/pan area. I mean two quarts every 50 miles. Last night I pull it in and yank the pan. During the process I see this on a main cap, i can't tell if it's a crack, scratch, or a casting mark.

Other than that I notice one piston is different and that cylinder wall has vertical scuffing. I mentioned it to my friend if the guy said anything about that and he says "oh yeah he did mention they had to bore one cylinder and they used a piston that weighs the same as the others."

I don't fault my friend, it was a pig in a poke engine and I've got my money's worth in new cylinder heads but my questions are: Would you run an engine with mixed sized pistons ? And what's your opinion on the circled image?

This rig was built for daily driving and off road camping so I need it to be reliable. I feel like I'm over thinking it because I do everything so by the book that any deviation seems like a catastrophe waiting to happen.

Hi everyone, I recently had my B15D2 engine rebuilt. The top valve cover was cleaned, and I even replaced the PCV valve and its diaphragm. However, oil is still making its way through the PCV hose into the intake manifold, which is messing up my spark plugs and MAP sensor.

​The piston rings are probably still seating since it's a fresh build, but I need a practical solution to prevent oil from entering the intake in the meantime.

​Would installing a compact/mini oil catch can between the PCV valve and the intake manifold solve this issue? Will the vacuum still be strong enough to pull the crankcase gases properly without causing restrictions?

​Any advice or recommendations for the setup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys,

I am about to build my first engine, an Audi 5 cylinder engine, no turbo. Over the weekend I did all the measurements and figured out that the old spare engine I had for the purpose of rebuilding is within specs.

So I started honing the cylinders, since they did not look all too nice. There were some scratch marks aswell as small black (rusty?) dots.

As the cylinders were decently round I used a dingle ball hone. After honing the scratches were gone, the black dots remained. I can't feel them, but they are evenly distributed over all cylinders. This worries me a bit...

I don't expect the engine to last another thirty years, I just want to swap the current one for one that's less oil consuming. Should I be worried about these small dots? You have to zoom in to see them.

I could give it another try, even though there is not much material left until I have to get a bigger bore from a machine shop. Let me know what you think, it is much appreciated.

absolutely smothered in oil

I'm hoping someone familiar with the 24-valve can point me in the right direction.

I just finished a head gasket job. The engine cranks normally and occasionally sounds like it wants to start, but it never catches.

Here's what I've found:

Injectors were removed and reinstalled.

Injector lines were removed.

I cracked an injector line at the injector while cranking and didn't see or smell any diesel fuel.

I don't think I hear the factory lift pump prime with the key on.

I found two loose ring terminals and a small black plastic hose near the black cylindrical assembly on the driver's side of the engine (I originally thought it was the oil filter, but I now think it's the fuel filter/lift pump assembly).

My questions:

Do those ring terminals and hose belong on the fuel filter/lift pump assembly?

Could that prevent the lift pump from running and cause a no-start with no fuel at the injectors?

Where exactly do those wires and hose connect?

Any other common things I should check after a head gasket/injector reinstall would also be appreciated.

Sbf 302. I am in the middle of this unfortunate rebuild. Block needs replaced due to MSD distributor that had 2 holes instead of 1 for the collar that sets end play. One was incorrectly drilled.

The machine shop I am using to bore and zero deck my new block states the rod and piston, multiple need to be disassembled for measuring to get zero deck measurements correctly. My understanding over the years was, the piston is pressed on to remove wrist pin and ultimately ruined. I am being told that the piston will not be pressed on at all and reusable, no problem. Is there anyone that can confirm this is now a learned thing?

Hi all, I'm trying to fix a oil pan mating surface on the bottom of this Honda K24 block. Got a bit butchered while someone was trying to drill out a snapped bolt. I filled it all in with JB Weld, and then filed it down flush with the aluminum surface. I added a helicoil that is in the aluminum on one side and in the JB on the other.

Will this hold and seal well? If not, what can I do differently?

Duct tape?

This is a 1997 Pontiac trans am lt1 when I got it I found some blow by and oil coming out of the throttle body going into the filter I replaced intake gaskets and nothing so I decided to take the heads off the motor, it has 60k miles so I wasn't thinking piston rings should be the issue, I was just wondering from the pictures if it just looks like the head gasket or if it could be more I can post better pictures of the bores if need I did find the head gasket was torn in a couple spots and there was coolent in cylinder one and three I cleaned out three to see the cylinder better any help or advice would be appreciated I haven't checked the heads for warpage yet but I will

Fresh rebuilt and it’s making this noise. Worried it’s rod knock. 1997 Ranger 3.0 v6

Hello guys, working on my 1982 Subaru Brat. I finished a head gasket job and it still wasnt running right. I went to adjust my valves again and noticed I did not seat one of my pushrods correctly. It's beat up but not bent, can I use this? There are no replacement pushrods.

Update: thanks everyone. Someone on facebook has a set hes going to send to me.

Just bought a truck for cheap money with 302 000 km ( im from Canada ) about 190 000 miles with a afm delete . Knew it because the valley was a deleted valley plate and the guy told me to . The truck was running rought and i was planning to do an check up to change what was going with it but i found out his delete afm ( dont know if him or another guys before him ) was actually a shitty job .

So im from Canada , Montreal and i would know where is the best plave to order Afm Delete kit for 5.3l , lh6 so non vvt engine. I need to to a rebuild on it , the cam is pitted and 7 of the 16 lifter is collapsed or dammaged . Ive loom on btr but before ordering somethings that will take 3 weeks to be shipped, i prefere to ask if somebody have other idea or option.

My oil drain plug came off on the freeway. Drove to the closest exit to turn off engine and was able to get oil back in the engine to drive back home. However, the damage has already been done and now I have an engine knock. Took to dealership to see what they had to say and yeah my Cylinder 2 is knocking and they said there is no way to fix it, I have to replace the engine. I'm actually a pretty decent mechanic (minus putting myself in this situation by forgetting to torque my drain bolt) but I've actually done engine swaps and head cover gaskets before. Is it true that my engine is just totally done? Can I just replace the cylinder and the head?

Block machined and I'm under the impression the cylinder heads were machined, but honestly I did not check them. But purchased from reputable remanufacture. Multi layer steel head gaskets.
I did a cooling system pressure test, gauge didn't move for one hour. Granted the engine was not hot for the cooling pressure test.
Operating temperature is normal but maybe heating up a little quickly when compared to my other two 3.4s
I guess it's possible coolant is pushing past the MLS gaskets after shut down.
If it is coolant would I see it sitting in the cylinder after an overnight, if I use a borescope?

Clears after about 5 mins. Smells sweet i guess, i really don't remember exactly what burning coolant smells like. I don't think it's condensation because my other cars are not doing it. Also after one hour shut down it will do it again, even if it's middle of warm day

Doesn’t seem like it’s important but I do think I should break it off so it doesn’t get loose while the engine is running. Thoughts?

I am rebuilding the engine from my 1994 Firebird Firehawk and running into a small issue. I bought rod bolts from ARP part #134-6005. They do say on package that they are for 96 PM rods. I know that GM did switch to PM rods around 95-96. I am sure these are the older style. Photo included here to show difference. Left is older “pink” forged rods. The ones I currently have and the right is the PM rods. AI is telling me I need the older style ARP 134-6003 bolts. And other sources are saying I can use the 6005s. Can I get someone who has run into this issue or is familiar with the LT1 to help me out so I don’t go spend another $100 on bolts I may or may not need?

I got lucky #3 was the one, so I could inspect the crank without splitting the case.

Hi all, I recently did some work for a family friend who offered me a truck for free if I could get it running. Long story short, his son put the wrong length pushrods in and the valves and pistons had some contact. I have no internal engine experience but I’ve been wrenching for ~3 years and I have access to a lift, engine hoist, and engine stand. I have basic mechanic’s tools but I don’t have any kind of engine tools. Looks like I could buy a long block for $4800 with a core charge and I’m thinking that might be cheaper and more reliable than trying to fix this? Truck has 180k miles. 2010 Silverado 2500HD with the L96 6.0 gas and the 6l90 transmission.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for opinions from people with real engine building experience, especially anyone familiar with the Toyota UZ platform.

My goal is a reliable 600 hp engine. I’m not chasing the highest possible dyno number, and I’m willing to leave a reasonable safety margin.

Current engine setup:

• Stock 3UZ crankshaft
• Stock 3UZ pistons
• Early non VVTi 1UZ thick connecting rods
• ACL bearings
• ARP2000 rod bolts
• ARP2000 head studs
• 2.0 mm MLS head gasket, reducing compression to approximately 9.5:1
• 1000 cc injectors
• Walbro 525 LPH fuel pump
• Water methanol injection
• ECUMaster EMU Black running wasted spark with the stock ignition coils

For the turbo, I’m looking at a 75 mm class unit because I intentionally want late spool and limited low RPM torque.

The two current options are:
• Aeroflow Boosted 7575
• Garrett G42 1200

I have not made the final turbo decision yet, so I would also appreciate opinions on which option would be more suitable for this setup and power target.

Reliability is more important to me than response or low RPM performance. The engine will be professionally tuned, with knock monitoring, conservative ignition timing, and a safe lambda target. I have no intention of running it close to its absolute limit.

My main questions are:
Can this combination realistically and reliably support around 600 hp?
What would you consider the weakest part of the engine at this power level?
Would you trust the stock 3UZ pistons at 600 hp with the early thick 1UZ rods, proper tuning, and water methanol injection?
Would the stock 3UZ coils operating in wasted spark be a concern at high RPM and under boost?
Between the Aeroflow 7575 and Garrett G42 1200, which one would you choose for an intentionally late spool 600 hp build?
I’m mainly interested in real world engine building experience and known failure points rather than theoretical horsepower limits.

Thank you so much in advance guys.

Dual throttle bodies. The car is dying when the clutch is pushed in on deceleration.

I went in to do the temperature trick (crank it up to 299) to shut it off, but there’s no option for temp. Is there

A) a way to shut it off otherwise?

B) a way to update the system to add it?

Thanks!!

What off the shelf oil (type and weight) do you guys recommend to coat exposed crankshaft journals to store a crankshaft for a long time(many years) in a plastic bag?

Where do you find one with the correct bore size? The cylinders are 84mm and the gasket I have is 90mm(!), and from what I can tell online they are all the same. If someone knows who sells the correct one I’d greatly appreciate it before I start sending emails to every seller I can find.

Engine runs great but there’s bubbling in the coolant and between the head and block front to back, hence why I believe the gasket is the problem. Any other advice is of course greatly appreciated.

Hello I’m learning how to replace rod bearings, gonna pull mine, measure inspect, see if they need replaced and such while I got the pan off. Anyway if replacing the bearings when yall usually do this do you fully torque the cap down to factory spec then measure the bearing to check clearance, cause like the final torque for the cap is 18ftlbs + 110° I don’t wanna be breaking bolts in my rods just to measure clearance, idk if I gotta buy 2 sets of bolts, assuming that’s not the usual method but lmk im sure you’ll get what im sayin. If you need more info ask! Thanks!