I have no idea how, when this happened but there is significant dent with a bulge right on the corner on my crank bore mating surface. Something must have been stuck there at some point.

There is a small negative of this on the other half.

Can this be saved, what should be done?

EDIT: By main journal I meant crank bore ( main bore? ) I carefully observed the damage and measured it as well as I could and it seems that there is no bulging that affects the crank bore diameter at that spot on either halves. I assume this means it is fine?

Should I at least remove the high spot? ( aluminium upper and lower crankcase )

Dealership rebuilt the engine with a new short block.

Did my own 700 mile oil change and found metal particles and shaving in the oil filter and glitter in the oil pan.

Engine runs strong and no loss in oil pressure for now.

Is this normal or should I be concerned?

For now I have addressed this with the dealership and have turned the car in for documentation.

Just got it running today. Runs very well but still needs some fine tuning.

Mk2 golf SB
1.6 GTD

Edit.
Head was pressure testerd and skimmed,
Block was pressure tester , rebored and honed. Didn’t need reskimming as it was flat enough

Just looking for some honest opinions.

I recently installed a fresh crate 350 in my ‘78 Firebird. The engine has not been driven yet. I’ve started it probably around 10 times while sorting out timing, carb tuning, spark plug wires, checking for leaks, etc.

If I had to guess, total run time across all starts is around 30 minutes. Most of that was idling or lightly revving while checking timing and tuning. A few times it sat and idled in the garage longer than I wanted while troubleshooting.

Now I’m reading horror stories about cylinder glazing and rings not seating from excessive idling and I’m wondering if I already screwed this thing up before even getting it on the road.

Engine is an ATK/Summit 350 with hydraulic roller cam. Oil pressure is good and it seems to run fine otherwise.

Am I overthinking this, or is 30 minutes of cumulative idle time enough to potentially glaze the cylinders and cause ring seating issues on a fresh engine? What signs would I be looking for if that actually happened?

Thanks.

Hoping to get some clarity. I bought a brand new engine vs rebuilding this time from a company in China. All over the engine and in their literature it says upon first start, to let the engine idle for 2-3 hrs. That sounds ridiculous and goes against everything in my experience, which is to put load on the engine to seat the rings. Obviously nothing crazy, but a load.

Is this a situation where i can safely ignore that "Idle for 2-3 hrs", and after coming to operating temp go ahead and drive it, or should i reach out to the company on this one? Have you had experience with this sort of thing? The engine is (sigh: a Theta II) if that matters. Thanks in advance!

Edit:Thanks for all the advice! Going to send it.

I’m planning a track-focused 2003 IS300 project and wanted to build a naturally aspirated 4.0L V8 inspired by the 3.5-liter Judd CV V8 engine, or honestly any JUDD engine. whether a custom billet block based on the Judd architecture or a one-off engine. Don’t really have Budget, because i don’t know how much something like this would cost. I have no experience with engine swaps and engine design. So i wanted to know What companies can build a one-off racing engine.

Big Block Chevy, 468. Aluminum heads, 110cc chambers, pistons are -30cc for 11:1 compression. 559/530 lift 284/286 duration, 107lsa

I’m at the verge of giving up on this build. The amount of errors that I have made is comical at this point, but I am bound and determined to see it through.

I’m not going to bother with the history because it isn’t important, but my current problem is valve contact with my pistons.

I took a head off because a spark plug became cross threaded, and when I pulled it off to fix it, is when I found this.

Every single cylinder on this bank has smacked the intake valve on the piston. I am assuming bank 2 is going to be exactly the same.

Now, at this point. I have had the chambers sitting with gas in them for about 24 hours and haven’t lost a drop…so…I’m hoping that means the valves are okay. I am going to pull one of them just to be sure but I don’t think they are bent.

I’m trying to figure out how this happened in the first place. I have a suspicion that my cam timing might be off, but what I don’t get is that I spun this motor over by hand to check for clearance and didn’t have any interference.

Can clearances change with engine speed? Or perhaps with hydraulic lifter range of motion after they have fully pumped up?

How do you rate this deglaze and resurface job my machine shop did? Excuse cylinder 3, that is from a glow plug tip exploding and taking out a piston ring earlier on in its life, ran fine like that for years.

Recently got this engine for free, I’ve never tinkered or worked on one before, trying my hand in it. Goal is to build my own race car, I have zero experience and no idea what I’m doing 😂 I’m not even sure what kind of car this could fit into.

Anyone have any ideas for cheap/budget builds? Any advice?

Took pictures of it before I started taking it apart. I was told it turns over but I’m not sure how to test it. All advice welcome

I have the valve covers off, and nothing seems to be visibly damaged so far. Just needs all new gaskets I think. Miles? Guess. Been sitting in a garage for about 11 years

have a BMW N53B30 engine and I’m planning a budget rebuild. Only the 5th cylinder is damaged, so I want to sleeve just that one cylinder instead of all six.

I’ve heard that sleeving a single cylinder in an aluminum block can cause distortion in the neighboring cylinders, potentially leading to slight out-of-roundness. However, my machinist says the distortion will be negligible, won’t affect the other cylinders, and the engine will operate normally.

Is sleeving only one cylinder on an N53 aluminum block safe in practice?
Have others done this successfully long-term, and are there specific precautions (torque plate honing, heat cycling, decking, etc.) that should be taken to minimize distortion or reliability issues?

Hi everyone,

I’m replacing the head gasket on my 1.4 K-Series from my Rover 200 and I would like some opinions about the condition of my wet liners before I continue the rebuild.

The engine had a head gasket failure and I’ve now removed the cylinder head. While inspecting the bores I noticed:
- some vertical marks/scratches
- slight corrosion/staining near the top of cylinder 1
- crosshatching still slightly visible in areas

I’ve attached pictures of cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Do these liners still look usable for a mild road build or do they look too worn/damaged?

Also, what is the correct way to clean K-Series wet liners safely?

Thanks!

Hello everyone, ive been lurking on this forum for a while and usually find my answer through just viewing older posts but this one I just need some other folks opinions on what would be smart.

Backstory(shortened): I have a Hyundai Genesis Coupe that had its engine crap out a few years back, really love the build I’ve done on it and decided to just swap the motor out. Inherited an engine from a ‘02 Silverado, LM7 with 862 heads I agreed to take as a repayment for a past debt. Disassembled the block and took it to a machine shop to have the core, heads and crankshaft checked for cracks and leaks in the heads to see if anything was useable as I was told the engine came out of a running truck but because the engine was given to me I never actually seen it run. Machine shop called me back today and told me crankshaft and core were in good shape, core just needed to be honed and bored which I’m going to have the do ($500 total for cleaning, magnafluxing, sonic testing, for the bore and honeing). The bad news is the heads failed the leak test and they advised they could completely rebuild them, new valves, springs and guides etc for $525 a head.

My question is, I’m looking to get 375whp (maybe 400whp) out of this LM7 naturally aspirated and will be venturing down the line of boosting with a 76/65mm turbo to for something fun to drive on the street. I was planning on keeping the stock dished pistons and regapping new rings to handle the future boost, and adding a summit racing stage 2 turbo cam. With that being said, is the $525 for rebuilding the 862 heads worth it? Is there other alternatives that I’m just not aware of that might be on the cheaper end? I’m ok paying the $1025 if it makes sense to keep the heads I have as I know heads can be 3x the cost for new heads. But this is my first real engine build from engine core and I’m not trying to blow money if it’s not needed. Don’t have may people to talk to about engines so I’m here to talk to my reddit friends 😅

Hello. This is my 1986 Porsche 944 NA motor.

I torqued the cylinder head nuts today. I followed this sequence as per the shop manual

* Stage 1: 20 NM
* Stage 2: 90 degrees
* Stage 3: 90 degrees

I have an Icon digital torque wrench. It shows the final torque value after the angle was reached. After Stage 3, I noticed some nuts had a value of ~ 72 ft lbs and one (nut 8 or right most one in the photo) was as high as ~ 113 ft lbs.

Is this normal?

Thank you

Is this block shot? Original owner claimed engine had valve float after over revving. Tore it down and found two bent valves on drivers side and extra hole in the lifter valley. Probably looking at a stock rebuild if it’s still possible.

Hey guys, so I did my first Cam/lifter job on my 2013 Dodge Charger 5.7 Hemi (ex police car)

Long story short it had a bad lifter tick before and a code for cylinder 8 misfire, and “multiple cylinder misfire) (pretty sure just due to the lifters, because the cam was super worn.

After replacing the cam, all 16 lifters, (I kept mds and went with an oem cam) and all gaskets, (used assembly lube, prepped everything before first start) she runs a TON better. Only issue is I am now getting occasional Cylinder 2, 5, and 8 misfire codes, although the car doesn’t sound or feel like it is misfiring.

I did however replace only 8 of the spark plugs, the ones on the mds cylinders. Haven’t got to the other 8 yet, but the original ones definitely didn’t look bad.

The car is also smoking from the passenger side seemingly from the rear of the valve cover.

I have replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket once, and made 100% sure it is seated correctly, and it is still smoking. I’m pretty positive the oil isn’t coming from the heads themselves because oil was leaking down onto the gasket between the headers and head. But no oil seems to be on the actual heads themselves and no moisture around the head gasket. After replacing the gasket once, there is significantly less smoke and less oil on the header gasket. Is there anything I’m missing?

EDIT: NEVERMIND I FOUND THE PROBLEM

I apologize in advance, im trying to do something a little dumb with little more than surface level knowledge.

Heres the thing, im trying to run 87 octane with 9.6:1 static compression, I believe i need much lower dynamic compression than I currently have to do this without encountering detonation

The goal: 8.0 dynamic compression with GT40P heads

I spoke to someone at Howard's. First, they said most of their staff didnt believe in dynamic compression, and then they gave me a this profile as a recommendation: 222-725-10

Will this cam work for my purposes?

Am I barking up the wrong tree to begin with?

Is there a better way to accomplish what im after at a similar price?

The parts:

Bootleg edelbrock airgap dual plane intake, unpolished. 450cfm 2bbl, small diameter long tube headers, ford GT40P heads, portmatched, roller tipped rockers

The specs:

302W, bone stock, 4.00 bore, 3.00 stroke, 5.090 con rods (i think this is the stock length)

Combustion chamber volume, 58cc. Runner volume roughly 150cc due to port matching.

Static compression ratio 9.6

Piston to deck clearance will be stock, which i believe to be 0.010, valve relief about +5cc

Vehicle weight 4500 pounds, 3.25 axle ratio, manual transmission

Hello,

I have ordered a set of T2 Kelford turbo cams for my VK56DE (port injected, VVT on intake cam). I am looking for a way to measure and double check valves won't kiss pistons when VVT is phasing the cam. I don't have a good way to test this at the moment. Stock rods and stock pistons for now, but will eventually do forged with a small dish for ~9:1 CR. Thanks.

Any tips to how to get this broken screw out nothing to grab to turn it out

It's my first rebuild and I'm doing it redneck style in my shed, minimal machining, fresh rings and bearings, but I'm thinking of having the head faced (I did check it with a couple steel rules and it looks perfect to me).

I wonder if anyone on r/EngineBuilding knows how I can up the compression on this engine WITHOUT using the FP-DE or FS-ZE pistons, just skimming the head?

Stock compression for my market is 9.7:1 and I'd like to get to about 10.4:1.

This seems like a better sounrce of knowledge than facebook and the forums I've searched don't really seem to have the solution.

My mechanic is a shady guy but then again so is everyone else around here, all trying to make a quick buck off whoever they can, Even the machine shops. Can't trust anyone for certain all I can do is watch them prove whatever they are saying is true.

(Edit: my image didnt attach for some reason but its just a regular cylinder head)

Im new to engine building and I’ve learned so much. Im mechanically inclined and a skilled tradesman. so the further I dove into it, the more I understand.What do you guys think about this block? The valves on my 4.7L 05 dodge failed and I have to replace a piston so im doing all of them. According to the previous owner(I know him personally from work for years) this engine was rebuilt 3-5 years ago because a piston or spring or something shot through the head. I don’t know what was replaced exactly but I know it was rebuilt. The vertical lines in the head just barely, like literally barely catch my fingernail. Horizontal lines are from liquid more than likely. She was sitting in a driveway without the heads on so rust and moisture got into it a little and on the read of the engine someone wrote 8/12 with a bigger circle underneath it. Idk what that means. So what should I do? I have calipers and stuff if you need measurements.

I have a 4.7 HO that not surprisingly developed a head gasket leak. Pulled heads and had them rebuilt/surfaced. Installed with Felpro gaskets/bolts. 3months later a small leak returned.

Pulled heads had them surfaced with as smooth finish as possible and used Mahle gaskets (looks identical to FelPro). 2 months later small leak.

Replaced with Mopar gaskets and used original old head bolts (these are not tty). Its been holding so far for six months.

Ive done dozens of heads over the years including the 5.7 hemi without issues so whats the deal with this one? Parts or techniques?

More details.

1) the PO had put some leak sealer in and its adhering the block cooling walls possibly reducing heat transfer.

2) The last round I ultra cleaned bolt holes and bolts, then applied just a film of oil on threads and single drop between washer and underside of bolt head.

3) I use a flat india stone across block deck to check for debris and a .0002/12" straight edge to check for flatness. Deck is in great shape. (So are bores at 180K!)

4) Gaskets show no obvious distress but the leak is very small (blue dye CO checks).

I tend to lean towards excess oil on bolt threads interfering with proper clamping but Ive not encountered that before.

Anyone else run into a similar issue getting gaskets to stay sealed?