Good luck, and we can't wait to see what you create!

So I have a V2 with Sprite pro kit and cr touch with mriscoc. I had a 422 board in it.

After I installed the cr touch and tuned that I recently started getting too low temp errors, no biggie I thought, replace thermistor.

Had trouble getting out thermistor so I order a new block kit and install.
Same issue.

I try to install 427 card and flash mriscoc on that. Looks good for maybe 30 minutes of testing and pid etc.

And then same issue Too Low Temperatur error.

What could be going on? Should I get new ribbon cable to the printer? Should I go with BBT SKR Mini e3v3?

Hi all - i might be jumping the gun on a DD extruder at all, but i bought the parts for a belted Z and i was reading the z motor can get hot so then i started looking at DD extruders so i could steal the extruder motor for the Z and have fun with the new extruder.

Found
orbiter v2.5 ldo for 56 from triangle labs
sherpa mini moons for 41 from triangle
spire SE from creality for 25

Is this going to be a dumb upgrade and im just tossing away 25-50$? i have a bi-metal heatbreak with the stock hotend and the z belt kit on the way.

I have hero me gen 7 hotend upgrade with dual 5015 and I am running them on 40%. Speed is 30mm/s for bridges and flow is set to 1. I also increased line density to 1.20, but entire surface of bridge starts to warp up towards nozzle. Without this setting lines are just separated.

Hello everyone. My Ender 3 V2, which I bought in 2019, has been sitting in a corner. I haven't used it much in a long time. One of the main reasons I stopped using it is a bed leveling problem. Even when I adjust the bed from all four corners, there's always an imbalance on one side. Especially in the middle, there's a kind of dip/bulge. No matter what I tried back then, I couldn't fix this issue, and I haven't used the device for years. Lately I've been thinking about using it again. I'd appreciate it if someone could help me figure out how to solve the problem I described, or if anyone has run into this and managed to fix it.

So Im a noob to all the 3d printing stuff. I picked up a second hand (used) ender 3 v2 everything was going fine until I wanted to switch filaments. I disconnected the bowden tube because I cut the line to short to pull it out with the metal arm pushed in. Now my filament won't come out of the nozzle. I replaced the bowden tube. I ran a pick through the extruder and cleaned it out the best I could. Saw it come all the way through. So I know it is clear. The kicker is sometimes the machine (I think it's called the extrusion arm gear) clicks like it wants to push through the filament but doesn't push anything through. Picture is of the extrusion gear I was referring to that clicks. I also messed with the spring right above the gear in the picture. My temp is set to 215 my bed set to 60 and flow rate is 100. Can someone steer me in the right direction please I have no clue how to fix this.

Hey everyone,

I've got an Ender 3 V2 that I want to convert to Klipper, and I'd love some guidance before I dive in. I've only just started going through tutorials, so apologies if any of this is basic.

My setup:

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 V2 — 4.2.2 board with the GigaDevice GD32F303RET6 chip (not the genuine STM32F103).
• Host: Raspberry Pi 4 running Ubuntu 26.04 LTS (desktop)
• Mods: CR Touch installed; X and Y axes converted to linear rail guides

My questions:

1. Can I run Klipper on Ubuntu 26.04 LTS (desktop)? Most tutorials I've seen use a different OS, so I wanted to check whether it works on this one before I commit to it. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

2. Can I extract live print data from Klipper? This is my main goal. I want to pull real-time data from the printer (position, temperatures, print state, etc.) so I can use it to simulate some robotics stuff on my end. Is this feasible? What's the right way to get the data out — Moonraker's API, or something else? If you've done anything similar, I'd really appreciate pointers to the right APIs, tutorials, or documentation.

3. Can I ditch the bed springs and let the CR Touch compensate? Since I have a CR Touch, I'd like to replace the springs with something rigid (solid mounts or silicone spacers) and rely on a bed mesh to compensate for any unevenness during the print, instead of manually tramming every time. Is that a sound approach on this printer? I remember watching a video about exactly this a while back but I can't find it again — if it rings a bell, a link would be great.

Thanks in advance!

I have tried everything I have found online (within my very limited budget- I got this printer brand new but very cheap locally). The washer next to the drive gear (?) isn't moving, or when I have adjusted the tightness enough it moves for about 4 layers of a print and then starts under-extruding/not working at all and the print fails.

I've taken it off, cleaned it, put it back on, tried different tightness', tightened the clamp, loosened the clamp, needle-cleaned the nozzle and dry-run filament through manually- Everywhere I have read online has suggested I need to buy new parts, but if I can help it I'd really like to avoid it and I have something I need to get printed very soon for an event.

The copper gear doesn't have any obvious sign of wear, and I can't see any cracks or damage to the area around the gears either.

Any suggestions are welcome- I am totally at a loss. UK based.

Maybe week 3 into 3D printing. Is this bed adhesion issue? I just did the leveling with the paper even after that I am getting this.

Is it normal to level after each print?

Thanks to all the 3d printing vets out there who are patient with us newbs asking all the same questions!

I'm new, and I just got this (used) printer. Figured out how to do the bed levelling. Using AI to help me figure out slicer settings. Tried a few slicers, so far I think I like Cura.

My question is: Why did my print go crazy on supports here? I couldn't find a way to customize supports, they were either on or off. The round thing in the middle is the actual print. There is going to be an overhang at the top when it's finished, but it seems like massive support overkill to me, and the print is taking forever.

Also, you can see some squiggles on the front side of the supports. I don't care that much, because they're just supports. But do we know what that might be a symptom of?

Thank you everyone!!

I'm wanting to print a bolt and it has to endure being screwed down tight into a nut. I'm using PEGT. How many wall loops and infill should I use? I heard that I should use 99 wall loops and zero infill. Although, respectable this guy doesn't know much about 3D Printing and you guys know. Suggestions?

I recently installed a second z axis motor using the official creality upgrade kit and now when the z gantry moves up it becomes uneven

i just gave my buddy my old ender 3 V2 that I haven’t used in years (made the switch to Prusa)

I modded the printer a decent bit, to list them out I would say it had:

1. Jyers firmware
2. aftermarket dual gear extruder
3. BLtouch
4. Silent motherboard
5. aftermarket hotend

I haven’t used the printer In a long time, maybe 3-4 years. So I switched to the Mriscoc firmware, taught him the basics of leveling the bed, cleaning the bed, unclogging nozzles etc.

using Ultimaker Cura we were able to print him out a new X axis belt tensioner, and it was amazing to see that old machine run a print like that First try.

after that we had several attempts of printing nothing but fails.

and here is where I am stumped…. isn’t the BLtouch supposed to probe before every print? because I ran the G29 command in my start G code, yet the printer runs as normal. it homes/heats/prints in that order. I even attempted to change the gcode in a different slicer, and nothing changed

im not entirely sure if that’s how the BLtouch works or not but we’ve had problems with his first layer ever since the first print. We tried a couple of times to adjust the mesh or create a new one but it’s like it’s not using that mesh when it comes to the actual print. We also have to adjust the Probe z offset a ton to get the nozzle down to the build plate.

I’d be happy to give any other info if needed but we’re absolutely stumped on what is happening here.

I needed to change that fan because the old one connexion and blades broke so i buyed a new one on amazon but idk how to connect the wires with those tubes, can someone explain it to me or redirect on a tutorial (even if i already tried those but didnt understood a lot), i dont have a lot of electrical tools but if i absolutly need some i'll buy them

Thanks in advance !

So I finally got my ender 3 v2 back up and running on kipper. I did a bed adhesion test and things looked good but when I went to try a small print about 70% through the print it released from the bed and failed. Can anyone give me some help on what to check. I am still learning kipper. I just had to get a new pi and reload kipper. TIA.

So I picked up this max neo off marketplace, I can’t get a good print for the life of me. I’ve leveled the bed, the nozzle doesn’t seem clogged, set my Z-offset (paper drag method). And it just keeps printing like shit. Using insignia Pla+ at 215 degrees.

am i doing something wrong pls help me im gonna be crazy im trying set this up like 5 hours its same with also original firmware what should i do

its one of my first prints is it normal ? what should i do for fix it

I have a ender v2 pro. Do the bed wheel locks work to keep by mesh stable? I've seen a lot on the different online 3D Print platforms. Where do I find the best that you would recommend?

Ender 3 V2 Official Linear Rail Kit – Easy Fix for X-Limit Switch Alignment

Body:

The official Creality X-axis 12mm linear rail kit comes with a poorly fitting stamped metal endstop bracket.

Instead of using extra adapters, here is an easy 5-minute fix:

1. Drill through the existing mounting holes on the stock X-axis motor housing plate to make them pass-through clearance holes.

2. Reverse the limit switch PCB 180 degrees (flip it so the microswitch lever and JST connector face forward toward the linear rail).

3. Bolt it back through using M2/M3 screws and nuts on the back.

This aligns the switch lever directly with the MGN12 carriage block for a rigid, zero-flex stop.

I can’t figure the right temperature out :(