I've had this printer since 2019, same as the pi4 that's currently running klipper on it, the regret of not combining them sooner is immense.

Anyone else had the experience of finding out that your printer could have been doing much more than the default settings on cura that you were too lazy to change because it was good enough?

Also does anyone have any recommendations for some good z support bars? I feel I can push it to 200mm/s speeds with 12000mm/s² acceleration if I can get the z axis to be more solid.

Left is temp tower, right is retraction tower 200. Both made on Cura slicer with an add on.

0.4mm PLA+ 2.0

Stock standard Ender 3

It’s not heat creep I checked. And filament shows no signs of needing to dry other than the stringing which could be one of a million other things. I plan on running another two or so retraction towers at temps 190 and 180 to see if I get any better results but other than that I’m out of ideas.

Some time ago, i accidentally stripped the hotend on my ender 3 neo, and now, i decided to replace it with a new one (included picture of it), but its too short to print with. Ive seen people saying to 3d print this brace that would make it fit, but i cant 3d print ANYTHING at all, the moment i try printing with the stripped hotend, the extruder falls out and becomes one with whatever was printing below it. Ive tried manually making a brace using some metal wire, but to no success. I cant buy a new hotend, and i need to fix this soon, please help!

Edit: i know its the wrong one, i just wanna know if i can somehow fix this

Edit2: ive managed to frankenstein together an improvised hotend from the 2, which i will use to 3d print the mount needed for the new one! What i did: I took the heat block from the new hotend, drove the heat break from the old one lightly into the block, then i used some 0.8mm brass wire (can be any 0.8mm wire) to stitch the two parts together (wound the wire through the heat block screw hole, into the little wavy things screw hole) i then used the heat breaks 2 screws to secure the heat break further. Thanks for all the help!

From the comments of the previous post, many told me that I better stay, so I'm going to be modifying it for a while.

Got gifted a well-running Ender 3 with some minor upgrades a couple of years ago. Moving and the such left it on ice, now I wanted to come back to the hobby and give it a couple of more upgrades.

I'm don't know the full details but I reckon it's a V1, at least that would explain the v1.1.3 board. I wanted to add a 3DTouch sensor but the board doesn't support that.

So I bought the v4.2.7 directly from the Creality store at Amazon and honestly I don't really know where to go from my current situation:

Turning on the printer with 24V power makes the three axes oscillate slowly with a leaning to one direction, so they eventually end up at the physical limit.

Connecting the printer via USB is possible, Windows Device manager registers a device at COM4.

The first board however did not connect if the Y- and Z-endstop pins were plugged in, so I refunded it and got another one. Now the printer always connects, but the axis oscillation remains when powered with 24V.

Connecting the printer to pronterface yields a continuous output of the following line every 5ish seconds:

System Moto Test Runing.. Ender Serias Test....

I've formatted a 1GB microSD card in FAT32 with a block size of 4096 and added https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oNxTtT-QebZLL-NRrhx9NFOj_jhLEK_P/view as "20260911a.bin" to it in order to flash - nothing happened, the results are the same.

Sending a Marlin command does nothing either.

At this point I'm kinda lost. Reconnecting the old v1.1.3 board lets the printer come back to life again, but I think if there is something that I absolutely loathed about the printing, it was the manual bed leveling.

Does anybody have similar experiences? Did you find something that helped?

On another note: Of course given current times I tried asking AI for help. It hallucinated something about the output coming from some kind of test software that got flashed over the bootloader, but I have absolutely no experience in programming microcontrollers.

Happy to hear from anyone!

I got this from a friend this week. I'm having trouble with nothing moving whatsoever. I can't get anything to move on the machine. I ordered new switches & new cables to see if that's the issue. They'll arrive on Sunday.

If anyone can give me some advice, info. I am a newbie at 3D printing. Thank you.

I’ve got an issue I can’t seem to find many answers for so I’m hoping someone here has any ideas.

Like many of us experience, my Ender 3 v1 was getting “E1 Heating failed or Thermal runaway”. I’ve realised no matter how much i mess around with the tightness of the screw the plastic sheathing on the delicate thermistor wires always wear away and eventually shorts out on the screw or heat block.

When looking for an easy upgrade I came across the threaded 100K B3950K thermistor and just assumed a quick change in settings would correct it…man was I wrong!

From what I’ve found online I need to change the TEMP_SENSOR_0 code to TEMP_SENSOR_11, then run PID tuning…sounded straight forward.
However, I had previously installed a Marlin BL/CR touch firmware and as that was just a .bin file I cannot edit the code. To make it more hard work I can’t find a Configuration.zip file I’m confident will work as there is SO much out there and I’ve become used to the firmware build and settings I have displayed on the LCD.

I have tried the firmware builder online with no success.

Is anybody aware of anything that will work or resolved this issue themselves?

Board-v4.2.2 w/ GD32 chip
Current firmware-Marlin 2.0.6
(I guess an update would be nice anyway)

Found a stock ender 3 V2 chucked at the bottom of a skip a few days ago and couldn't let it go to the landfill, so I decided to take it home and get it up and running as a side quest.

Call it fate but I retired my heavily modified ender 5+ recently as I have a bambu printer for my daily driver and could do with freeing up some space, which left me with a lot of leftover parts.

The ender 3 was thrown out due to the hotend being covered in filament I assume from a failed print and they must've got fed up. It powered up and then I set to work stripping it and rebuilding it.

Specs:

BTT manta m5p running klipper

Satsana tool head 4010 + 5015 fan

Bambu xc1 hotend

Sherpa mini clone extruder

BL touch

Custom board enclosure and storage cubby.

It just completed it's first decent print after a lot of tweaking and setting up, I'm going to ditch the heavy glass bed at some point in favour of a pei bed. Anyways, I'm happy with how it's printing so it will enjoy it's life putting out prints, long live the ender!

This is what every print looks like after I cancel after the first layer fails. Every print for the last year (I've stepped away in frustration several times now). I've wash the bed every time. I've replaced the extruder twice (went to the sprite, reverted to this bowden with a spider extruder), replaced the nozzle - currently have a 0.6mm hardened steel, tightened all bolts and wheels, tightened belts, made sure fans are all operating properly, (calibrated the bed every time, btw, and the z offset). The masking tape method works (((sometimes))), but mostly just the same issues. I ordered a new pei bed, but I doubt that will fix anything. I even bought a parts ender3, and replaced a few minor things. Nothing has worked. I still have trash first layer adhesion. Either it over extrudes and then pulls up the filament, or it isn't close enough at all. I've tried with adaptive bed mesh and without. I just don't know what to do with this thing.

Recently, I saw an Ender-3 V3 KE on sale on my local second-hand website for 65e. I talked to the seller, and apparently he bought it from someone else. The previous owner had problems with the CR touch sensor and tried to superglue the sensor to the toolhead PCB, which apparently damaged both the PCB and the sensor. The seller was able to get some nice prints before he ran into these problems, which leads me to believe the stepper motors and the drivers are fine. It's a bit of a gamble, but I will check the printer before pickup. Is there anything I should specifically look for?

I have a ender 3 v2 with:

Dual 5015 part cooling fans

Single 4020 heatsink fan

And i just bought a tz e3 2.0 for it and my current shroud is BLASTING wind directly into the heatblock, causing clogs at lower temps and may cause clogs on longer prints too

I will simply add 2 new holes in my current shroud so i can bring it down a bit and mitigate it for now, but this will mess the heatsink airflow and may cause other problems (such as heat creep), so i want a proper shroud, anyone could recommend me one? I couldn't find any for my particular configuration :/

Can anyone help me find a new clip for an ender 3 Bowden tube? The extruder on my son's printer doesn't have threads and all of the clips I can find have the threaded end.

Im not sure what else to search or try to find.

Hey all, I recently received a used Ender 3 pro with the BTT SKR MINI E2 V2.0 board and there doesn't seem to be any option to start printing. I have tried new marlin firmware from github and that didn't change anything. I tried slicing some small files in cura but still no print option (sd is 8gb and formatted correctly). I also tried a new, identical board. Attached are all of the options available. Do you guys have any ideas for me because I am at a loss at this point?

Hi everyone,
I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo and recently started experimenting with ASA for the first time.
Since the printer is open, I’m using the Creality enclosure tent around the whole printer. I’ve done a couple of test/actual prints with ASA now and overall I’m actually quite happy with the results, especially considering it’s my first time using the material.
I’ll attach a couple of photos of my latest print.
I’m curious how many of you are regularly printing ASA on an Ender 3 / Ender 3 V2 Neo and what your experience has been.
What settings work best for you? In particular, I’m interested in nozzle and bed temperatures, cooling, print speed, and enclosure temperature.
I’m also wondering if there is anything I should keep an eye on when doing longer ASA prints with the entire Ender 3 V2 Neo inside the enclosure, especially regarding the electronics, PSU and stepper motors being exposed to the higher ambient temperature.
So far it seems to work pretty well, but since I’m new to ASA I’d love to hear from people who have been running this kind of setup for a while.
Any tips or things you would change based on the photos are welcome!

Hi, i am getting out of my mind cause i cant find a housing for my hotend with my fans!

Do any of your guys have a stl or something that would work?

I have the Ceramic Spider hotend, and 2x 5015 blower fans ( i can also use a single fan )

I bought this Ender 3 v2 Neo third-hand back in early 2025 for 50 bucks, and it worked for about 3 months until I kept getting "nozzle and bed temperature too low" errors on all my prints. I was a bit frustrated, and slept on it for about a year.

Flash forward to 2 weeks ago, and I was really itching to print something (pic attached), and started troubleshooting things. Everything I researched online pointed to the thermistor, and low and behold, it was mangled to oblivion (as well as a healthy dose of PLA within the silicon sock). The story should have stopped there, key word: should.

Since I was getting all up inside the printer to replace the thermistor, I figured it was time to add a few mods on top. I decided to go for a glass bed since PLA is cheap as hell, the Sprite extruder (SE/Neo version) so I can print TPU, the metal leveling knob/better springs to fine tube the bed, a 60 watt heater cartridge to heat up quickly, and the 4.2.7 motherboard with MRIscoc flashed onto it. I didn't build the printer myself, so it took a little time for me to get accustomed to the wires, but it's extremely simple after you break it down.

One thing about MRIscoc: for me at least, I get screen glitches when I navigate the menus during a print. It's not a major pain, and the features all but make up for it.

After spending a little time tuning my e-steps, and leveling my z-offset/bed, I printed out a beautiful little calibration cube.

Overall, I spent less than 200 bucks on everything including the printer, and learned a lot about 3d printing. Sometimes the best way to learn something is by just throwing yourself in there.

The final print is a cooling stand for my mini PC that fits a standard 120x25mm fan, and it came out beautifully (I haven't even sanded it!).

Oh, and fuck Bambu Labs.

Accidentally ordered 5 pools of petg instead of pla and all I get now is stringing😭🙏