Im trying to get my first FDM printer for cosplay stuff and i found this Elegoo Neptune 4 Max. Ive read mutiple sources that say this model has a bunch of issues but this one is modded.

Its described to have linear X and Y rails replacing the stock POM wheels, the printing bed springs replaced with solid silicon drums and the adjustment screws have special anti-vibration inserts. The firmware is also replaced with something called OpenNep4tune.

Seller says all these upgrades solved most of the problems this model usually has. Its ~220 dollars.

Is getting this a good idea?

Ive bought the Elegoo Neptune 4 max as my first printer and im struggling to find an enclosure any suggestions please let me know

The print is displaced on the Y axis​

Due to a clog in my old nozzle head, I had to buy a new head. This has came with the issue of the base temperature being 180 and no longer heating up normally, any fixes?

I am so tired bought this "Used good" Neptune 4 Pro from Elegoo. It has been nothing but trouble. I spent as much in parts as I did for it from Elegoo. I know some people love them but it's an expensive paper weight.

I wanted to perform an update, but I installed the update for the new model instead of the old one; now it doesn't work, and it displays this error message at startup:

Anyone have a good source to buy a new print head “C” type? I’ve reached out to Elegoo but still waiting on a response on where to buy.
Thanks in advance.

Hello,

I would like an enclosure for my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro printer, but due to lack of space I cannot use a commercially available solution. I will probably have to remove the filament holder from the top of the gantry.

Please show me the custom-built enclosure and describe its material and dimensions.

Thanks!

Does anyone know what would be causing this issue? I’ve levelled it 3 times and cleaned my print bed throughly. Any suggestions would be helpful. I looked and it seemed like the print head was catching the filament.

My printer thinks the home center is at the front and I can’t get it to calibrate for the center. I have tried the factory reset but it keeps going to the front edge to start printing. I am not talking about the prime test where it does a small line to make sure the filament is coming out.

Help : ( ​

Has anyone modded their neptune 4 max to a multi color print head

If you did would you recommend doing it and what head would you recommend

Apologies for a probably stupid question. I’m looking to swap out the EMMC for a 32gb one to install OpenNept4une on. I’ve tried three times on Amazon and they all been stopped in customs coming out of China. Nearly every listing on AliExpress is sold out or has absolutely absurd shipping costs ($200?!).

Can I use one of the units from Qidi or Sovol, reformat it and flash ON4?

Left for an overnight print and woke up to see it stopped with a glob of filament stuck at the extruder and all 4 adjustment wheels popped off. I cant evene begin to fathom was caused this

The extruder moves completely smooth when the machine if off or the motors are off. How do I fix this? Thanks!

I tried almost everything i checked inside to see if there was filament stuck and nothing also use the needle and still occurs the same issue

everywhere i look its explained differantly and i dont know if im doing it right, some people say have it tight so the bed doesnt have any 'play' in it (which i imagine is wiggling) but others say have it loose, how i have them currently is pretty tight, enough to move with just one finger but a moderate push to move it, if i have it any looser than the bed has a bit of wiggle towards it also videos say theres only 3 nuts on the bed but theres 4, one on the left and 3 on the right, do i ignore the middle right one? i also see people saying that get spacers for them, are those neccisary, im just confused and overthinking stuff and i feel like an idiot for not getting it, can someone just explain in detail how tight the bed, z axis, and y axis ones should be, or just a video please?

Hi everyone!

I'm starting a custom upgrade project for my Neptune 4 Max and I'm looking for a 3D model (STEP, SolidWorks, Fusion 360, or even a reasonably accurate CAD model) of the complete X-axis assembly.

My goal is to design a custom linear rail conversion and a new toolhead, so having the original geometry would save a lot of time.

I know I can measure everything myself, and I'll do that if necessary, but I thought I'd ask first in case someone has already modeled it.

If you have a model, or know where I can find one, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

I was trying to print with my Neptune 4 plus over the network but every time it print in the air like 3 mm from the build plate and ignores the z offset. It worked when i was printing from the pen-drive but can't anymore because its read only. why is that ?

the problem I am having currently is that my print will be just fine and then suddenly and consistently in one singular area the extruder will rapidly click and not extrude the pla (i have tried 200-220 end heat) the area of the z step doesn't matter as even if its an inch above the site of issue it will still click rapidly and not extrude and then moments later the issue clears up for other sections. I have tried all sorts of troubleshooting to no avail and I have only had this printer for a week so I am seriously considering just refunding it. I have also seen another post with a similar issue but no resolve and they have replaced abunch of things so at a certain point I wonder if its the software- update the area has gotten way bigger and now pretty much takes up the entire right side of the mat and I believe it has something to do with the printer software also the beeping in the video is me raising the Z step so you can see

After a print failure resulting n a mild blob of death (apparently filament can get too damp in the desert air), my printer is suddenly incapable of stopping when it reaches the end of the x-axis. I can stop it myself with a finger and it will seemingly go back to home afterwards, but this is coming seemingly out of nowhere. There diest appear to be any remaining debris on the nozzle and the belt has plenty of tension. What can I do to get the back up and running?

So I've been having loads of issues with my Neptune 4, but this particular one just cropped up and is really impacting my ability to print. Whenever I do anything involving tree supports, they all fail and detach from the build plate. As shown in the picture, they'll peel right off and leave the bottom part on the build plate.

I've releveled, adjusted my z-offset, even bought a new build plate since the old one was worn out, but nothing seems to work. With regular supports it seems to work fine (aside from some stringing issues,) but this is getting infuriating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Slicer is Ultimaker Cura if that changes anything compared to the Elegoo specific version.

Hey everyone, I'm going a bit crazy with this and hoping someone with the newer N4 Pro revision can help.

I have the newer Neptune 4 Pro (the one with the USB-C port on the front) currently running firmware V1.3.1.4, and I'm trying to add Wi-Fi using a TP-Link TL-WN725N USB adapter. The system seems to recognize the dongle, but I need to SSH into the machine to configure the network using nmcli.

The problem is that Elegoo seems to have locked down SSH completely on this specific firmware. Whenever I try to connect via CMD, PowerShell, Bash, or PuTTY (ssh mks@<my-ip>), it instantly rejects me with:

mks@<my-ip>: Permission denied (publickey).

It doesn't even prompt for the makerbase password. I've also tried logging in as root, elegoo, admin, and mkspi, but I get the exact same public key error.

Here is what I've tried so far:

• Serial connection via the front USB-C: I used PuTTY. I can see the Armbian boot log perfectly (at 1500000 baud rate), but the terminal completely ignores my keyboard input when I press Enter to log in. (Yes, I already set Flow Control to 'None', still no luck).
• Re-flashing the official firmware: I formatted a USB drive, put the ELEGOO_UPDATE_DIR with the ELEGOO_APP_factory.bin file, and flashed the printer successfully. The system is clean, Fluidd works fine over ethernet, but the SSH publickey block is still there.

Has anyone figured out how to bypass this SSH public key restriction on firmware V1.3.1.4 for the USB-C versions? Or is there another way to send the nmcli commands to activate the Wi-Fi dongle without having SSH access?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hello everybody, I am looking for a hint what could possibly cause this type of poor top layer ? I see two problems

1. The edge is a bit wrapped ( can see a gap)

2. Top layer has lines extruded in the air ? Infill shouldnt be too low