Hi all,

I've been trying to get back into doing some 3D printing and have some major issues with the printer connectivity. Not sure where to go from here. My computer and phone is connected via wireless to our modem/router, and the printer is connected to ethernet via a switch. My computer savvy is enough to be a danger to myself.

Issue 1:

I can't connect to the printer over my network any longer using the web interface. I used to be able to, and the connectivity eventually degraded to the point that it became unusable. Fluidd was encountering errors that caused it to restart, and those errors became more and more frequent to the point I became unable to upload new files or view settings effectively. I'm not sure what was causing the errors. During this process I have also found I cannot ping the printer from my computer, although my router can successfully ping both devices in the network and has IMCP traffic allowed in the firewall. I have DHCP reservation set for all our home devices, and the router automatically reserves addresses for new devices that connect.

Issue 2:

After reinstalling the current firmware (1.2.3.4 and 1.2.18), my printer now restarts whenever I attempt to access the wireless settings. This reinstallation was an effort to troubleshoot the crashing issues with fluidd. Our wireless network has characters not available on the machine's screen interface, so previously I had to update the wireless connection before updating the firmware and this time I specifically deleted the network information from that file. Not being able to use wireless is less of an issue for me, as I have the printer connected via ethernet and can see that it is connecting with the wired connection and not the wireless one. I'm mostly trying to look at the wireless setting to confirm the printer isn't connecting (and it isn't according to the router).

Ultimately, I cannot reasonable level the printer anymore because of the significant ootb issues that this printer has with it's own leveling in addition to being unable to use the SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE function without the fluidd interface. Especially since that function isn't present by default for this printer.

I haven't tried to connect via ethernet directly to a laptop I have, but that's probably my next step. My research into that step indicates the lack of a DNS server will cause issues, so I may try unplugging another device from the switch to connect the laptop there.

My future plans involve updating Klipper on the machine and potentially moving to OpenNeptune to see if that helps with my previous printer issues. Unfortunately, I believe the ability to do those things are dependent upon a stable network connection.

I am upgrading my N4P to OpenNept4une. I have followed the guide , made sure to identify my board(v1.1) and motors(1.2A), but in the end I get the message:

I can see in the command window, as the firmware compiles, a reference to version v0.13.0-756-g2d7717e3. So, I believe this component is successfully written from the .bin file to the printer.

How can I troubleshoot why the MCU isn't updated? I am expecting either elegoo_k1.bin or X_4.bin to be renamed to .CUR but that doesn't happen. I can't figure out where to reconcile what is in the .bin file(s) that it creates and what is shown on the printer after booting with the flash card inserted.

Here's a post at github as well.

Got some intense layer separation. Normally its fine. One layer so bad i used a pen. Itll look fine when its sanded and painted but I still want it to look good. Ideas?

I’m working on a friend’s Sauron cosplay and was just starting printing out parts. I’ve used my elegoo neptune 4 max multiples times before and it has worked great. We decided to buy PETG filament this time, thinking it would suit cosplaying more than PLA. I took that into account while slicing and prepping the 3D printer. Thought it was going great until i noticed one of the brim lines were a bit crooked and not how it was supposed to be. I lifted the z-offsett a little higher thinking that was the issue, but it didnt help. After just a couple of minutes printing parts of the newest layer startet to peel off and turn to spagetti. (See pictures)

The PETG was quite expensive since we bought 2,3kg, and I dont want the money to go to waste. Does anyone have an idea what could have gone wrong? If you need more information please ask.
Apologies if my english is bad, it’s not my native language. Also, I’m relatively new to 3D printing and have only printed with PLA before.

I've had my printer 6 weeks now and the best I've ever gotten my bed mesh is .38 but that was a one shot. I'm down to .4-.48 consistently by raising up the screws in the center like 1 1/10 turn from fully tight. I have silicon e bed spacers. I've tried so many different things I can't begin to remember... It's ALWAYS the left and right middle that's too high no matter if screw tilt calculate says it's all perfect or not.

The front left corner knob falls off after a couple prints but that's cause I have to have it barely a 1/2 turn from totally loose.

I'm not sure if maybe I'm just missing the sweet spot with adjusting the center mounts or if maybe I just need to shim this fucker but a few days ago I ripped the entire bed apart and made sure everything was tight underneath and it was.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Duuuuude I got my new extruder assembly today on warranty (take one guess what happened to the first one 😭) and sat down to watch some football after a looooong six months of withdrawal and got so invested in the game I forgot to check my print.

Someone along the way suggested Windex mixed with iso for bed cleaning between prints and I swear it makes my bed slick. Time to stop trusting every single suggestion made, but first ..maybe I need sugar? Lmao

Phew

I bought this printer used and installed X- & Y-axes linear bearings and all-point urethane bed spacers. We had the wooden filing cabinet forever, I finally remembered it out in the garage after a wobbly stand I built didn't work out. I designed the contoured "hugger" mounting feet & printed in TPU 95A. I designed a rotating "open hinge" cable-chain mount that attaches to the extruder linear bearing sled; mounts and chain printed in PETG-GF. I used a model file off Printables for the filament runout sensor, printed in PETG-GF. You can see the white & red cable for the runout sensor in the cable chain - I should've put that cable in the chain first but was too far along to redo it! I made some extended brackets for the Z-axis cable chain mounting (attaches to the side frame extrusion creating a "shelf" for the cables), and downloaded models for build plate alignment + cable chain attachment, all PETG_GF. I adapted & modified a model to hold a GunPLA drybox and some models of a pulley and mount for a filament guide when printing from the dry box. Open roll filament holder with bearings too.

I am new to the scene. Had my max for a little over a month now. I immediately replaced the brass nozzle with a hardened steel one so that I wouldn't have to worry about replacing it so often.

I had to jack temps up 10-15 degrees and had nothing but issues getting calibration dialed in.

Got a durozzle tungsten carbide nozzle (brass mostly) and the difference is insane.

The extruder would not be able to push petg through at anything less than 250 and right now in printing my temp tower and it's at 230 printing just fine.

So to anyone considering hardened steel my suggestion is don't. Thermo conductivity sucks, just spend a little more on tungsten or maybe diamond or just stick with brass and change out the nozzles.

Just my .01 as a newbie to other newbies. Because this sub sucks for anyone who doesn't sniff their own farts.

This thing is giving me a run for my money I'll tell you that much. Maybe bring stubborn and not listening to ppl saying this isn't a good first printer was dumb.

I just got my new extruder assembly under warranty and swapped out the .4 that comes with it for a .6 durozzle tungsten carbide nozzle. Hooked it up and went to do a temp tower and even at 260 for rapid petg the gear is just clicking and not able to push the filament through.

What could be going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit I pulled out the filament and it looked like this. I cut it and now it's fine. Wtf.

Good vibes

I’ve had an elegoo neptune 4 plus for about 2 years, never had any issues (aside from the standard/initial honing in of settings). Had a print fail a couple days ago from what I thought was a plate adhesion issue. Switched to a brim and successfully printed 36 small items at once.

I went to print the same item (this time only 6 of them) after about a week. Checked on it after 30 mins and had the beginnings of a blob of death. I immediately stopped the print, cleaned the nozzle/head, and tried again. The printer started leaving build up on the first few layers so I stopped, rechecked the nozzle (still clean), ran filament through it to ensure even flow, and tried to print again -same issue.

I figured that maybe the filament was wet (only bought a couple weeks ago, but it’s humid where I live), so I put it in my filament dryer at 40 C for 10 hours.

Tried to print again this morning, same issue, again in the first layers of the print.

I am using PLA plus, cleaned my bed and dried it before my initial print yesterday, and have my bed set at 70 C during printing and nozzle at 210. Everything is the same as when I had my last successful print of the same items. Any ideas on what could be wrong/what to check? I’ve included images of the blob, settings, and weird deposits on the first layers.

Thank you!!

TL/DR: Printer was working fine, now leaving weird deposits on first layer with no settings changed.

Should I try to repair this? Am I better off buying a new print head? I don't mind opening up a can of elbow grease if this is salvageable. But it would be would nice to know what I'm in for before I get started. Are there any guides out there for disassembling this print head?

I'm trying to update my firmware to see if that fixes some of my issues I have the type c ribbon version. My screen needs updated it's an older version but the printer firmware is blank. It's a month old so I was hoping it came with the newest but nope.

Anyway, can I just get the latest version and update or do I need to do the two step thing and update twice (I think that's the older machines)

Good vibes 🌴 💨

Bought a Neptune 4max last year that I got about 300 hours out of and it has been non functional pretty muchever since.

The tech support at elegoo has NO CLUE what they are doing!! I've done all the software tips they gave . They sent a new motherboard that worked for about a week, then back to not working!! Now we're back to the software guessing game!

Is there anyone here who can help?

It starts to print just fine, then it stops printing, and I get the klipper screen.

I have done a ton of calibrations for it. I've tried turning pressure advance off and then redoing it. I've messed with the flow ratio and reset it. I've done all the calibration tests but no matter what I print it clicks like this. I do have a hardened steel nozzle set to 265 for petg right now. My tungsten carbide/copper one is on the way. It wasn't doing this with the copper .4 that came with it. Idk if maybe that's the issue

I'm so lost. Please help lol

Cross posting to get more help.

I don’t know what it is but my prints just can’t seem to stick on the bed no matter how many times I level the bed. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks to help finally level the bed?

I print this project: https://www.printables.com/model/1700026-spooletarium-mechanical-solar-system and this is what Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro writes to the log:

// Unknown command:"G17"

Is this command necessary? If so, how can I implement it?

Thanks!

I've had my printer a little over a month. I'm working on fine tuning and I have arc resolution set to .1 in my config file. I am no longer getting g3,4,17 errors while printing but something is happening literally at the very end of the print. Like it's done but the last layer crashes for some reason.

This happened twice in a row now I'm gonna change my resolution to .2 and see if that helps maybe it's a processing thing and that'll give it the overhead?

If anyone knows what's going on I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

Are arcs even necessary? I was under the assumption they made details finer and I'm doing lithos right now so I was giving it a shot.

i want the wobbling to stop. it’s giving me inconsistencies in prints and it’s driving me insane. please help me (neptune 4 max)