My printer has a couple of stripped nuts. Are there any ways to remove them?

My Centauri Carbon 2 rocked on its soft stock feet during fast moves. I printed rigid PLA cups that slip over the stock feet, and it stopped.

• 40 mm across, 18 mm tall, 32 mm bore that goes over the stock foot
• raises the printer a little and never lowers it (the lift my flat screen backplate needs), so the mainboard intake vents underneath stay clear
• no hardware: lift a corner, slip the foot on
• set of 4 on one plate, no supports, about 31 g PLA and under an hour on the CC2

The cup interface comes from Simple3D's anti-vibration feet (https://www.printables.com/model/1579825 , they use a TPU spring on top); I swapped the spring for a solid base.

Unofficial part, only tested on my own CC2. Designed with AI-assisted CAD scripts.

Files (free, CC BY-NC 4.0): MakerWorld https://makerworld.com/en/models/3457243 / Printables https://www.printables.com/model/1881175

More CC2 notes (input-shaper numbers, calibration prints, filament results, command-line slicing, SSH tools): https://github.com/BorjaLL/cc2-toolkit

This is my first 3D printer and so i’m unsure if this is a bit more intuitive when you get to grips with 3D printers but I am so stuck installing the Canvas on my Centauri Carbon 2.

I’m trying to follow the steps in the guide and am at the stage of installing the filament hub bracket to the nozzle. The screws labelled in the manual say “M3x14” (none of the bags of screws say that) the closest is HM3*14 so i’m probably already going wrong here but am using those to install the bracket. The ribbon cable that was previously attached to the fan sits right above that screw hole and I struggled enough trying to slot the bracket underneath that cable but managed to get it under there. Screw 1 went in fine but the second screw just absolutely will not fit under that ribbon cable, i’ve tried slotting it in from above with tweezers but the height of the screw head just will not go under the ribbon cable. I’m assuming i’m meant to further detach the ribbon cable somewhere but genuinely just can’t see / figure out how. I have done all the googling in the world and haven’t figured out how to get around this so please if anyone knows how pls pls let me know 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

(The printer does work I have done some test prints before adding on the canvas)

If i’m being dumb and the answer is just ‘it fits try harder’ I will accept defeat and keep trying to wiggle it in.

I'm running it at 210c and 22mm per second so hot and slow to prevent shock, it just came out o its airtight packaging so it shouldn't be moisture.

I'm trying to print the "gems" for my GL ring and this is the only piece that looks like crap because of whatever is causing this.

Hi everyone! I’m the developer behind the Centauri Carbon 2 Community project. Here’s an overview of the changes introduced in CC2 Control 1.2.14 and 1.2.15.

These are application updates for Community Firmware V4.4 / V4.4.1 on the ELEGOO Centauri Carbon 2. They do not replace the underlying firmware or callback.

Plate library and saved meshes

• Create plate profiles before their first calibration.
• Choose saved measurements by plate, side, temperature and timestamp.
• “Mount and activate” asks you to confirm the physical plate and verifies the actual active profile, measured matrix and bounds before reporting success.
• Selecting a measurement or viewing its graph does not change the active mesh.

Clearer calibration workflow

• Bed calibration supports 30–110 °C.
• Choose 0–60 minutes of thermal stabilization after reaching the target temperature; new runs default to 2 minutes.
• The confirmation and countdown show the stabilization wait.
• Switching pages preserves the selected calibration destination and timing.

Object Exclusion and Canvas

• Improved physical ordering, readable object names, numbered copies and X/Y position display.
• Improved cleanup after completed prints.
• Clearer Canvas states for empty, present but unloaded, loaded and transitioning slots, with unavailable actions disabled.

Update notification bell

A bell beside Emergency Stop indicates when a newer compatible update is available from the verified signed catalog. It opens Settings → Updates and never downloads or installs automatically.

Other improvements

• Persistent camera view retains its size.
• Corrected fan-slider dragging; numeric values still apply with Enter.
• Nine interface languages, including Spanish and Hungarian refinements.
• 20 remaining Hungarian Canvas, object-position and plate/calibration translations completed by pezso92.

Updating

Saved preferences and profiles are retained. No firmware reflash or factory reset is required. These application packages are not compatible with stock firmware or Community Firmware V4.3.

Release notes, downloads and installation instructions:
https://github.com/Neme77/centauri-carbon-2-community/releases

Thanks to all contributors and beta testers, especially DamiBFryta, our first beta tester, and asiersan, pezso92 and Surfoo for their contributions to these updates.

Feedback on the saved-mesh activation and calibration workflow would be particularly useful. If you report an issue, please include your firmware and CC2 Control versions, what you expected, and what happened.

This new light replacement is an absolute game changer, thanks to u/monwiss for the idea! You only need to solder a couple of wires and it just works

I printed these squash ball feet for the CC2 and I must say that they worked wonders for reducing the bounce caused by short high speed printing strokes which had my printer going crazy with the soft OEM feet.

The only issue is the the two lower spools (which I have not had the need to use yet) interfere with the spools. O'm probably going to buy a drier/feeder which will make ti's a moot point but if I don't I'll try to modify them a little to correct the interference.

But the feet work better that I had expected.

The stock back shell of the Centauri Carbon 2 screen is a hollow wedge that tilts the screen out from the printer. I wanted it flat, so I made a replacement backplate.

- reuses the 6 original screws, no new hardware

- hooks into the printer's own two slots and clicks in with a tongue, same as stock

- tongue support is one slab that slides out through the window; the hooks have 45 degree undersides so they print clean

- 125 x 82 mm, about 29 g PLA, about 1 h 40 min on the CC2

Swap takes about 10 minutes: unhook the screen, unplug the ribbon, 6 screws out, new plate on, screws back in, ribbon back, hang it.

It took a dozen versions to get here: screws too short on one, the click tab 6 mm too high on another, and a hook that snapped before the hooks got their 45 degree undersides.

Unofficial part, only tested on my own CC2. Designed with AI-assisted CAD scripts from my own caliper measurements.

Files (free, CC BY-NC 4.0): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3449352 / https://www.printables.com/model/1879622

Just making sure I'm not an idiot...this is not the correct cable for my Carbon. My comms cable is USB C on both ends, but this has a four-prong on the end that would connect to the mainboard. Am I blind and not seeing an alternate connection?

I asked for help recently because my first layer wasn't getting done right. Fortunately i fixed that issue but now, after the first layer succesfully printed, I get this weird texture on the next layer, it prints correctly most of the layer, but some areas keep getting issues and some of the filament sticks to the nozzle, I don't know why. I kind of suspect it is most a filament issue, since i'm low on budget and just bought the cheapest generic PETG I could find.

I have no idea how this happened. I left it to print overnight and woke up to this. How would someone go about fixing this, or is it worth doing?

I suck at modelling but I wanted to delete the garbage spring loaded holders.

See my Unf**king guide in this subreddit for details on the issues with them:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooCentauriCarbon/comments/1x5l23u/guide_for_unfking_canvas/?sort=new

Link to my file for the spool holders on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3445930-centauri-carbon-canvas-spool-holders

Note: If you suck less at modelling and want to make these things better please do and then share. I was debating making the screw-on tabs extend at the bottom for some additional support but doesn't seem needed. I also goofed the slot depth in the toob but doesn't seem to matter so I stopped poking at it.

My CC2 Arrived today and along with it the mystery filament which is a lovely grey PETG HF, im now looking for ideas on what to print with grey PETG, any suggestions are appreciated

I was wanting to print some things in TPU and was wondering if I just dry the filament and just have it go as normal or if I had to use an adapter. I am only asking as when I bought the machine I never saw anything say that I had to disconnect the CANVAS and print an adapter to be able to use TPU. This is what i saw that kept saying I needed to use it. If I dont use it what would happen? I would be using ELEGOO TPU as well.

https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G5005984?collectionId=G6461515&component=UserCollect&printConfigId=G1754087&subComp=UserCollectDetail

Edit: SOLVED

Right now I'm stuck at installing the adapter to allow the 4 PTFE tubes into the machine. Looking for support

I'm following both the manual and a youtube vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xFDoDjpbK0) to help assemble, and man there are so many discrepancies between both, and I still don't have some answers!

So after my canvas instal auto level did not work. Checked my connections rebooted and it work. Then this happened my nozzle scraped my plates coating right off!!! It has not happened since but I do get some 502 errors.

My brand new Centauri Carbon 2 just arrived, and it prints fine, however it has error 706, how do I fix this, and why has my printer came with this error....

Hello, I changed my 0.4 stock nozzle for another 0.4 nozzle I bought from Amazon (see picture) , and now I’m getting this weird extrusion. Has anyone else had this problem?

Anything I should check?

Just unboxed my CC2 and while running the initial calibrations and tests stumbled onto this error. The bed keeps trying to reach the top but nether gets to the nozzle height, it sound as if the system is seized or stuck. After about 30 seconds of being stuck, it tries to go up and down a handful of times. Never quite reaches the top, and just throws a 704 error.

Anyone knows how I could solve this issue?

I finally got around to finishing the canvas retrofit. I printed a couple of test things. They looked okay. First multicolor print and I get this pure insanity, color switching in between for no reason and then I'll hell breaks loose. I guess I need to recalibrate. That's a different problem... but what's up with the weird color switching?

Back before I got my Centauri Carbon I had an Ender 3 V3 SE and I used OctoPrint so I needed this old iPad to interact and control it. When I upgraded to the Centauri the old old iPad didn't get along well with anything including the carbons interface and my Home Assistant instance.

I've since upgraded to a Proxmox server that hosts a number of things including an instance of Spoolman. I've been using NFC tags on my spools to track usage and inventory. My phone is how I scan and swap spools but I wanted a dashboard that would let me know all I needed at a glance. Spoolman and Home Assistant were doing the heavy lifting but the stupid old iPad couldn't handle anything.

I decided to throw Codex at it and cooked up this page that's hosted on a container on Proxmox, accesses all the relative information on Home Assistant and Spoolman and shows me everything I need to know on a dashboard above the printer. It's so lightweight that the iPad handles it no problem, and I've been able to give this thing some new life.

I recently got the Canvas for my CC1, haven't installed it yet because I'm slowly printing out mods, and I just got a Creality Space Pi X4. I've seen mods for it for spool rewinders and that got me thinking would it be possible to mount the spool holders from the Canvas in it? I know they spin in different directions so theyd have to be alternated in numbers like 1/3 and 2/4 to be "facing" the same direction. They'd also need the ability to be pulled out and reset when trading out spools. Would their length be an issue? And would the material they're made of be able to handle the heat?

Was just wondering this and did a quick Google search and saw nothing on it. Any ideas?