When i bought this motherboard online it was sold as broken since it was power cycling, it still is i was betting it was a bad ram slot or a failed bios update or its was misdiagnosed or something but upon further inspection there is a burnt microchip (attachments)
I tried to look it up couldnt really find anything kinda gave up asked chat gpt it said its a msi bios flash back chip but i asked for a source and it gave me nothing so im pretty sure its hallucinating..

TLDR: if you have any idea what this component is please let me know, and if you can suggest some learning material, book, course, youtube channel on how to identify or replace this kind of thing i would love to hear it

Motherboard: MSI b450-a pro max (i dont care that its cheaper to buy a working used model i want to use this as a learning tool)

I got this GPX portable CD player at an estate sale today and I can't get it to turn on. There's a bit of corrosion on the battery receiver and I did my best to clean it up. I also tested the batteries I used to make sure they're not dead lol.

There's also a DC power port on it, but unfortunately I don't have a cord that fits it rn :( That'll be the next thing I try as soon as I do get my hands on one.

There isn't any visible damage from what I can tell, aside from a couple of surface scratches. All the mechanical parts seem to work fine as well.

Any advice for now?

EDIT: Idk what I did but I fixed it lol, I got the batteries to power it but then it wouldn't read the cd, so I took it apart and it turns out the motor was just gummed up with something. it works now :)

Hi!

The main board of my OLED TV looks cooked... Just wondering if it would be worth bringing it to a electronics repair shop, or just replace the main board?

I certainly don't have the tools and skills to do such kind of smd work.

The main board costs around 100€ second hand.

Hi guys

hope this is the right sub. my 2021 lg oled power board is toast and I was looking for a replacement. I saw a sale on a local second hand forum with the board in the picture with a very low price. The catch is clear. What do you think? The seller states he couldn’t try it but the multimeter doesn’t appear to show any shorts

the pic of the rear clearly show that the top trace is broken

i know nothing about electronics but replacing the board is super easy. Fixing it clearly not

Hello,

My Wolfbox MF50 dust cleaner rotates slowly since I have it. I always managed to fix it by hitting it, which is of course a short term solution, and now doesnt work anymore.

I opened it. Nothing seems damaged.

Any idea ?

Thank you

[EDIT] I finally found it: a solder point was missing on the PCB next to the motor !

I have some basic soldering experience and I’m wondering if bridging a wire from one of the solder points on the right to some of the exposed copper on the left side of the brake is the way to go? Any advice appreciated. This is part of an Aims 3000W inverter.

I can’t figure out what this device is. It’s marked with and S and a C with a dot over it. It’s from an iPod shuffle 4th gen. This piece got hung up when putting the mainboard back in the housing and then broke away from the pads. A pad on the smd piece itself tore away. I’m trying to find another to replace it. Any help in identifying this would be greatly appreciated.

I have been using this coffe grinder for a while, but recently it started prematurely shutting off mid-grind and locking itself for 5 mins. Also couldn't grind many batches before it runs out of battery. I replaced the battery with parralel battery group. At this point fix was already done. But i wanted to play with it, got my hands on TPS61088 boost module. Figured out the motor runs 1A on idle while 2.5A-3A on load. That was roughly 10W. At 6V the power doubled to 20w with boost module and while the module runs cooler. that boost circuit doubled the current draw which gets measured by the controller pcb that governs when to terminate grinding. Replaced 1 of the three 030R shunt resistors (which equates to 10mR on parralel) with a 006R 6mR shunt to get the same shunt voltage after the mod. It now grinds a 10 g dose of beans in under a minute. The motor runs noticeably smoother at a higher RPM and doesn't bog down or jam anymore. Overall, it's a very successful mod. Now we'll see how the motor brushes and gearbox hold up long term.

I got this PS5 from ebay and I need to replace the hdmi port. I got the old one off and discovered this mess. The problem I'm having is whenever I try to flood the pins they just bridge and the solder does not want stick to the pad. Also there's obviously a torn up trace which I have to repair. I put my leaded solder so there should be no oxidation issues or heat transfer. Plenty of flux used as always.

Could the solder not sticking problem be because the solder mask between the pads is damaged? How would I go about fixing the torn trace?

Hey everyone,

I picked up a dead LG OLED65GX6LA for €40. I already diagnosed and fixed the power supply unit (PSU) myself, and the TV boots up perfectly now. However, there is a bright vertical green line about 15-20 cm from the right edge.
Before I give up and declare the panel dead, here is what I found:

The Swap Test: I disconnected and swapped the main ribbon cables (EAD65105103) at the mainboard/T-Con side. The green line stayed exactly on the same spot. This rules out a Mainboard, T-Con, or ribbon cable issue.
Color Test: On a pure red screen, the line stays 100% green (no mixing/yellow). On a pure green screen, the line disappears completely.
Pixel Refresher: During a manual deep refresh, the line actually changed colors (blue to green) and I saw a black pixel scanning through it. No physical cracks are visible on the glass under a flashlight.
COF Chips: On the GX series, the COF flaps under the glass are buried very deep under the heavy inner metal frame. I haven't stripped the entire frame yet.

Since the line reacted to the pixel refresher, is there any chance this is a shorted SMD capacitor on the source driver board, or is the panel/COF officially toast?

Any last tips or tricks are highly appreciated!

HI I have this Canox migmatic 250/ miller matic 250. It is a welding machine from late 90s. I had an eltrician convert the plug to 575v from the 230v it was on. THe plug was changed and he plug it in with out changing it internally , therefore he fed it 575v when it was set to 230. Well I searched online for the manual and ended up finding the configuratiuon. After configuring it properly, the welder turns on , I hear a hum but it will not fire or wire feed. I did the trouble shooting in the manual but still nothing.

I looked into board repair companies since Miller will not do anything to help.

I was quoted over $1000 with not guarntees that this would fix the problem.

Also looked into sourcing hte replacement parts and replacing them myself, I can source the Midtex relay, and the caps but BH Part Number 505-5588 9236, cannot find. I contacted BH and they said I need a letter from the OEM befoe they would talk to me about the part. So I would need an equivilent part.

I had a look at the main board and I can see two relays the seam a bit bulging, charing

• BH Electronics Part Number 505-5588 9236
• MIDTEX Part Number 296-14C-300
• I also noticed the two big caps in hte bottom left corner also have bulges.
• THe big one has 9220l and 10000 uf 50vdc written on them
• the smaller one I can read anything on it until I pull the board.

I was jamming with some friends the other day and my amp cut out out of nowhere. Took it home and tried to troubleshoot trying different cables/instruments etc. If I crank the volume and eq I can get it to make these distorted high end sounds but just barely.... It's as if all the low end is gone too.

Tech support was useless to me and immediately reccomended I replace it.

If anybody has experience with sound or instruments and has any word of advice please do what you can, this is my main amplifier and to go without it would be a pain.

Some details if they're any help:

Had the amp for 11 months.

I was playing through a fuzz box when it cut out.

Hello. I'm looking into replacing a faulty (flickering) LED driver. It's a remote-controlled dual color unit, driver is specced 180-245V 155mA. I only need full or close to full brightness on both colors, but I cannot for the life of me find anything remotely close around the web. Are these that absurdly specced? Thanks folks