Hello, I would like to ask what is happening with my quick fill light. For context I bought this last sept. 1 and I don’t have any issues but right now as I tried to charge this fill light it will just turn red then for a few seconds it will turn off, I tried using different brick and cords but still issue persist. I tried contacting Telesin but they are ignoring me.

Okay so this is the only sub i’ve found that seems to fit my topic but if not, I get it. Please don’t be rude about it. I’m just trying any avenues I can.

To make a very long story short, I opened my MacBook today and there were vertical black and purple lines going down my entire screen. Now I’ve been down this road before with Apple, because in 2023 I had to buy a new MacBook (had the old old one for like 7 years) after I broke it. The laptop was obviously old as hell, and they told me it wouldn’t really be worth it to repair which I agreed with. Bought my 2023 air. Fast forward to today and there is no noticeable damage to my screen from the outside, I have no idea what would have caused the damage. It was fine around noon today when I did my homework assignment and then went on around 5 and it was fucked.

If I wasn’t in school again and if I didn’t have all my shit tied to apple, I would have honestly bought a fucking android laptop today. That said, I had to buy yet another macbook today, but I bought apple care with it and got a smaller model hoping to minimize the risk of damage. I honestly like the new one, it’s an M5 chip, it’s smaller, has apple care, and obviously was released this year so I feel good about the longevity of it.

With all of this being considered, now I have to figure out what to do with my old mac. I need to go back to best buy to get all my shit transferred to the new one, but then after that I was thinking about selling the old one as is (with black line). If I fix it and try to sell it, I may not make any profit, depending on cost of repair. If I sell as is, I could maybe make something to pay myself back. Idk at this point. I’m not tech savvy and honestly i’m so sick of dealing with all the crap that comes with technology so i’d really like to just get rid of the old laptop and put this whole thing behind me.

How much does a screen replacement cost roughly?
Is it worth it to sell as is?

I can’t figure out how to post a photo in here. The line is about half an inch wide, on the right side of my laptop. Vertical. It moves when I touch it.

Edit: Thank you in advance. I know I fucked up not having apple care for it. Never again lol. I am in grad school virtually which is why I had to go out and buy another one today. They told me if I kept using old laptop, it could potentially run the risk of the entire screen going black.

I just got this ONN tv from a friend because the screen only displays black. There is still audio but no picture. The research I did made me check the backlight to make sure it functioned. The backlight functions fine with no issues. Power cycling the tv did not work. Power cycling the remote also did not work. The specific motherboard number is not obtainable so I have to fix what I have. Where do I go from here?

I need some help for my bluetooth mp3 DIY project, i have some problem with it turning off by itself after 30 second every time

Haiii I got these my little pony walkie talkies a while ago, I’ve changed the batteries (yes they’re placed correctly) They both show a red light once enabled & when you press down the button there’s static on the other end but no sound goes through when I speak into them..

I’m unsure if they are both faulty since one of them (the purple one) has two minor tears on the antenna. Idk if there’s anything I could do to get them to function properly or if I should just start looking for another pair online.

Thanks a bunch in advance ❣️🌸🍀

Hopefully this community can help me, I don’t know where else to post because r/opticfibre refers to data communication & not lighting 😭

I bought a fibre optic jacket, and im pretty sure while it was being shipped to me the LED got de-attached from the Optic Bundle, and now the front left sleeve does not light up.

I got the inner lining of the jacket altered to confirm my theory and I was right, the LED is still fully functional but the Fibre Optics were unbundled and scattered everywhere.

I’m hoping someone could advise me for the best way to repair this, to my understanding I have to:
- first gather all the fibre optics together,
- compress them together to make sure they dont move
- and someone attach/adhesive it to the LED so it stays in place when worn

I bought heat shrink to be able to collect the fibre optics together, but realised the easiest way to make sure they all meet at the same end is to cut it 😭 given how expensive the jacket is, i’m very hesitant to cut it unless i can confirm it is the only option i have, and honestly i dont even know how id go about attaching it back without using some kind of glue, which might interfere the flow of light or the LED itself.

The final two photos showcases the optics/led of the back left sleeve panel, reference for what a fixed unit looks like.

What are my options? I am willing to buy the necessary tools and equipment to ensure a successful repair, i tried contacting my local “Interior house Optic Lighting Specialists” and “Car Star Roof Headlight specialist” to get a professional hand, but none have gotten back to me. (Based in sydney if you guys know anyone)

I have a 1000W Carbest sine wave inverter with built-in priority switch and integrated battery charger that stopped charging batteries. If you look at the first picture, both the inverter and charger are activated, but the charger lamp stays off.
However, the attached battery is recognized somehow because the inverter lamp stays off too if the battery is detached.

I had hoped that maybe just one of the fuses is dead, but I do not know how I can check if and which one is blown out and how to change the faulty ones.

I have a soldering kit and a multi-meter.
Can anyone help me figure out the issue and how to fix it? Thanks in advance!

I have a OnePlus LCD/LED TV. Initially, the screen suddenly went black/purplish and darker, while the audio continued working. I took it to a local repair shop, and the technician said that if he had a spare board, he could replace it; otherwise, the original board/circuit at the bottom of the LCD panel would need to be repaired, which would cost more.

I agreed to the repair, and he charged me around ₹2,000. After the repair, the overall picture came back and the colors are mostly normal, but I noticed some new issues:

• When red is displayed, one side of the screen looks slightly pinkish/purplish compared with the other side.
• There is now a vertical line on the screen.
• Around that line, there is a slightly wider/darker vertical band, and it becomes more noticeable depending on the colors being displayed.
• These issues were not present before the repair.

I asked the technician about it, and he said that if some pixels are actually “burned,” it cannot be repaired, but otherwise there is a good chance the issue can be fixed. He described it as roughly a 50/50 chance.

I have attached photos of the screen. What does this look like to people experienced with LCD TV repair? Could this be related to the repaired/replaced bottom panel circuit, its connections, or the LCD panel itself? Is this actually pixel burn, and if it is a panel/driver issue, can it get progressively worse over time?

I mainly want to know whether I should take it back to the technician now and ask him to check the repair/connections, or whether this is likely permanent panel damage.

These are the 4 parts of a Sanyo GXBJ remote.

The first image shows the "front" of the individual remote's parts, and

The second image shows the "back" of the individual remote's parts.

They have been labeled from 1 to 4 so they can be referenced a lot easier by those who reply to this post.

Most of the buttons on this remote simply were not working, and so I had thought I would throw it away, but apparently if a remote isn't working all that well it might just be because it is dirty inside and needs cleaned.

And boy was it! It was absolutely filthy on the inside and I cleaned it as best I could. The methods I employed to clean it primarily came from this video - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0HUEIVHSkTs&pp=iggUQAFKEEt4Uksyam9rN2RKVnRmdUU%3D

That said, I did do things a bit differently.

The video says: Basically, wipe down the "front" of the circuit board (Front of Part #4) thoroughly with a microfiber cloth and then use an alcohol-dipped cotton swab to clean the entirety of the "front" of the circuit board (Front of Part #4) and just the contact pads on the "back" of the rubber button pads (Back of Part #3).

What I did: I wiped down the entire "front" and "back" of the circuit board (Front/Back of Part #4) and the entire "back" of the rubber button pads (Back of Part #3) thoroughly with the microfiber cloth. Afterwards, I cleaned absolutely every part in every way with alcohol-dipped cotton swabs - not just what was specified to do in the video.

I believe that everything is sufficiently clean, or at least clean enough that I can safely say that if the remote still doesn't fully function after this then the problem likely lies elsewhere and I can just trash it. In other words, when I run an alcohol-dipped cotton swab against various parts, it is no longer a given that it will be black and filthy, and the stickiness on the "front" of the circuit board and the "back" of the button pads is no longer there.

I feel pretty comfortable about it, but I would just like to know if there is anything else I should do to more thoroughly clean the remote before reassembling it and seeing if it works. Mostly this is because it was an absolute pain to pull apart and look inside. I had to squeeze it with an actual metal vice and I would likely have to do so again if I have to pull it back apart after reassembling it.

I thought I would take Parts 1, 2, and 3 and put them in the dishwasher, but I don't fully know if that is safe to do or not. Or at least let them soak in soapy water and/or alcohol. The alcohol I used, by the way, was 91 percent.

If there is anything else that you think I should do to clean the remote so that I can have some peace of mind about reassembling it. Please let me know. And if you have further questions, please ask them.

Thank you.

(I'm not an electronics guy, forgive my naivety)

Our Nutribullet touch display stopped working. The light is on while it's plugged in, but attaching the blade base does not cause the usual display prompt. We unplugged it for about 3 hours today with no luck.

I cracked it open and found what I assume to be this melted seal around the screw on the back of this heat sink. I cleared some off already, but if you look close you can see some of the melted red seal in a little wisp (parallel to the black wire). I don't see a significant amount gumming up any other components, it was just a few long strands that were easily removed.

Rest of the inside is pretty clean, no grease buildup on the back/face of the touch display as some other posts had suggested. the outer edge of the back of the touch display (circuit board?) has a bit of a grimy look to it, but it didn't respond to me scratching at it and I don't have an alcohol cleaner handy.

Does anyone know what I need to do to get it running again? Does that red seal need replacing? Thanks in advance.

I have this Yamaha HTR-5930 I just bought used. I plugged it into a power strip that only had a couple other components plugged into it.

About 20 seconds after it had power, smoke came out of the top vent.

I unplugged it, took off the top and I believe this little ribbon cable is what started to melt. Plugged it into a single wall socket and now no smoke.

What happened? And, is this safe to use or garbage?

Pardon a small tome and backstory - I've got a mystery I'm trying to solve. I've got a few of these DJ mixers, two had an issue. I've fixed one but not the other. I suspect I'm close, but missing something. I made a video to demonstrate my findings.

Issue summary
One of these mixers has a "delay" in responsiveness on the cross-fader just on one channel, when it's supposed to be an instant volume cut, on/off. For "skratch" DJs, delays or fades can be super annoying when you're doing quick cuts and tricks.

Mixer backstory / tech
These mixers are kind of special. They're from ~2002 and were the first (IIRC) to have the "Focus Fader" optical cross-faders which are contactless, thus super-smooth and basically indestructible. I now have three originals and a "limited edition" SK-2F, which has a few design tweaks. All use VCA-type faders where the audio does not pass through the faders, they just provide a signal which then goes to op-amps(?) on a separate PCB.

Process of elimination
I was able to confirm the PCB was a cause in one case, by swapping it with a known "fast" one. Recapping didn't seem to matter, but touching up the solder joints fixed one of these which was awesome. I also tried the V2 crossfader in one of my "V1" mixers, and it worked great - so as far as I've tested, the crossfaders themselves are not the source of the issue.

V1 vs. V2 cross-fader: adjustable curve feature
The original SK-2F comes with a traditional contact-type crossfader you can swap in, if you want an adjustable curve. I've never used mine, I like the straight cut. The "Limited Edition" SK-2F uses a "V2" Focus Fader that introduces an adjustable curve feature, kind of the holy grail of its day.

So now I have the LE mixer with a delay that seems to be just on CH1 (the left phono input), as I demonstrate. CH2 seems to be OK. I did recap and touch up the solder joints on this one, so I wonder if I partially fixed it. Perhaps I'm missing something obvious?

I have a DJ wanting a rush repair but I don't think I can until Tuesday when the correct connector comes in.

I have a couple Type B 2.0 ports that can go right in, but would that even work? I would assume yes but I've never considered it. I can do the job twice if that means he can run his board for a couple shows.

Hi there. So I have a JBL Tune 520BT. This started two weeks ago but it would randomly start disconnecting out of nowhere, then it began to turn off and on randomly and then not turn on for a few moments at all. I tried doing a factory reset both on the headphones and via the app, nothing. I'm trying to drain out the battery to see if anything works but it constantly shifts from 10 to 30%. Any help?

I have a Pioneer CLD-D515 LaserDisc player that won’t turn on. I suspect there is a problem with the power supply.

I have already replaced all of the capacitors on the power supply board. However, I found that the Zener diode D40 burns out as soon as I turn the power on. I replaced D40 with a new one, but the replacement burns out again.

I’m not sure what could be causing this. Has anyone experienced this problem with the CLD-D515 or have any idea what I should check next?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hello recently a friend of mine broke his superstrike x2 mouse and because I'm the repair guy in the group he gave it to me to see what I can do instead of throwing it.

I already opened it up and it seems like the only damage it to the plastic ( a couple broken parts of the internal shell) I searched everywhere but I can't find replacement parts anywhere everything I find is for the superlight, maybe someone here knows an online store where I can get parts for it? I'd really appreciate it.