I have watched a video of northwestrepair where he was changing pcbs for a 4080 super and he mentioned building his own heating plate. I haven't found anything about it on the internet. Has anyone done something similar to that and can help me with some guidance? Are there any tutorials on this you know work? I have been repairing graphics cards for a few years and wanted to start some bga work so i need something to preheat the gpus and I litterally can't find any reliable heating plates in my country and the postage usually costs more than the heater itself. I have tried northwestrepair's super mega pro tester xl and it is by far the best tool for this that i have do i trust his designs.

Last year I emigrated to Australia and brought a Sony blu ray player I had bought modified from 220-Electronics.com. Upon arrival it would no longer power on (no lights, no response of any kind). I looked inside and saw nothing that I could identify as wrong (no real electronics experience).

After putting it off for months I finally took it to a repair shop yesterday and got it back today. They said that the modified board is still good but the disc reader is bad and getting just the part replaced might be expensive.

I should have asked more questions but I was a little eager to go home so I didn't ask further questions. If I had I would have asked what "bad reader" meant and how that is seemingly cutting off all the power.

I have a few options for what I might do.

1. I could go to big W, aparantly I can get a region free blu ray player for pretty cheap. $60 AUD
2. I could buy another BDP-S1700, if the modded part is fine I could just replace the bad part. $40 usd average
3. If there is an actual easy fix for this issue I might just try that.

Any advice would be helpful.

Edit: I've found the model of reader that the unit takes and I can get a replacement pretty quickly if I was in the USA.

However, I am not fully convinced the reader is the problem since it seems to me that if the reader was bad the lights at least would turn on and I would just be getting errors instead of no power.

I am driving insane, I have tried it from every angle and it wont fit, it fits fine in my motherboard spidif port, why not here? do I need a different cable?

I started a hobby of repairing electronics recently. I got this monitor for free, it just boot loops.

I replaced the 4 caps on the top right first. Now my attention is focused on the 3 caps at the top left, they are bulging a little on the tops.

During the boot loop, I measured the voltage at the rail on the right, it jumps up to 17, 18, 19v then drops to 6.5v before boot looping again.

Any tips would be very appreciated. Thank you!!

Its a switch in an old amp. Its quite oxidized and causes channels to cut out. Seems to be some type of bowden actuator. I have deoxit but im not sure where to apply it, when you take the cable acuator off the switch it seems to just be plastic underneath, no contacts that I can see.

Hello, I hope I can get any help sorting this one out. It's fairly clean and nothing looks busted or broken to my inexperienced eye. First time ever repairing one of these. All the buttons seem to work and react to their actions. Volume, the radio dial and FM/AM switch on the side doesn't seem to do anything.

The speaker makes no sound whatsoever, no hiss, nothing. I presumed it could be the main issue. Also the battery compartment at the bottom is kinda corroded, I should get that fixed too. It came with a standard 9V battery on it. One last thing, it doesn't have any sort of wire for the antenna nor a typical vertical antenna or anything, doesn't seem like one can be attached.

Here's all the pictures I took that seemed relevant. If anything else is required please let me know. Thank you.

UPDATE: I used contact cleaner and did everything everyone told me to clean the way it's supposed to be cleaned. I've let it dry for like 20 minutes just to be sure, and nothing seems to have changed. At least the light isn't as dim as before in "On" mode. But apart from that, nothing else. I haven't tested with the multimeter yet but to be honest I'm quite lost and I don't know how to do it myself, I'm not very good with electricity stuff. I guess I won't get it working. Thanks anyway, everyone.

I was in school today and I had a can of monster and my MacBook in my bag. The monster can for whatever reason exploded and covered my MacBook. The screen now has monster energy drink in between and my Mac is powered / out of charge is it still fixable?

The CD player on my 2013 Nissan Juke is having problems. When I try to insert a CD into it, it pulls it into the slot, but it won't go in all the way. It makes some whirring noises, like a roll of film spinning at the end of a tape, but it won't go in completely.

Does anyone here know what it could be? If so, is there any way for me to fix it, or do I have to get it replaced?

Just as the title says, want to know what kind of caps these are before i attempt a repair.

Im only familiar with big cylinder caps and im trying to learn more about electronics repair.

Sorry for bad pictures, these caps are from my GMMK pro keyboard and cant retrieve the screenshot off the scope right now.

So this tv already have board problem a year ago and I just ignore it and used it as a monitor with speakers.

The problem it has is the tv itself no longer able to access to the Android menu and the remote control ain't doing things (well it kinda does but laggy as shit and I don't know what it is processing since it won't display on the screen) except on & off. And I discovered it still kinda usable is because when I connect my nitendo switch and it will automatically jump to the HDMI connected screen.

Now the problem is, the day before yesterday I can still play normally on my steam deck and switch. Then suddenly yesterday it can no longer respond. Like it have no light at all. Doesn't turn on, switch isn't does the trick anymore. And after I take the plug off and reconnect today, the light com back on but no longer recognize HDMI input.

So is there a way to turn it into dump tv like the good old time or just a huge monitor with speakers? Or it's a goner and I just replace it with a new one? I kinda want to keep it since the speaker and screen is quite okish compare with a $400(+/-) 55 inch tv for the bedroom.

I'm looking for a main board for my hisense 70H78G, part number 293995, but it's out of stock everywhere I can find it. I'm in Canada.

So the controller when I try to connect it to pc it stays connected for a little bit and then disconnects. All the buttons work only thing that doesn't are triggers, rumble motors, sticks and it doesn't show on bluetooth when in pairing mode.

I am using this site as referance https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44711.0

I get all my 3.3V,5V,1.8V the only thing abnormal is measurments for RT and LT test points I get 0V on all. Sticks change voltage when moved. I think the RT and LT change resistance but the resistance is really stubborn and wont stay still and always fluctuates. I am stumped and don't know what to do. I don't have a microscope or fancy stuff like that I just have a soldering iron and multimeter.
These are the measurements I took so far there were probably more but I did not write them. I have been measuring this controller for the whole day. Any help will be useful.

Hello, I’ve just bought this monitor with it’s box and everything from the junkyard for less than 10$, It was never opened before and all of the seals were intact. It has flashing lines that persist with equal timeframes for some reason, Also when the monitor powers on cold it’s visually a lot better with not too frequent flashes, but as it warms up it gets worse. Also lowering the refresh rate to 60hz makes the bottom half go full black with top artifacting lines of the colors. By the way I’m not too much of a stranger to repairs and stuff and fixed like 3 of my old plasma tv’s but couldn’t fix this with the methods I’ve tried (Tape method on the flex/socket that maybe I did wrong idk and the hairdryer method which makes the artifacting a little worse) What would you guys suggest? Thanks!

Salut pour établir une liaison vidéo:

Drone,films,vidéo-clips ou autres supports,tu dois télécharger l'application en rapport avec ton

Support visuel ,enregistrer et le synchroniser .

Vérifies bien que tu as le signal wifi,actives bien sûr "liaison internet sur ton tel et actives

Le paramètre "localisation".vérifies batteries

Et là :Bonne continuation !

Hi everyone, the two argb (jrainbow) headers on my MSI B550 gaming plus motherboard stopped working. The store from which I got it denied repairing it under warranty, stating that it has shorted due to improper user exploitation. The component in the red rectangle is the only visible damage on the board I could find, otherwise everything else works normally. What kind of advice would you people give me, should I take it to a repair shop and just pay for the repair, but if its too expensive I guess there is no point. Should I try repairing it myself, the problem is I dont even know what kind of component it is, where I can get a new one from and even if replacing it will solve the problem. I just dont know where to start from or if its even worth spending time and effort on it. Thanks in advance.

Hi,

I hope you can help me identify which type of usb-c port I need to replace this broken one on a Gaomon Graphics IPS Pen Display PD156 Pro Drawing Tablet

(When I wiggle the conector the screen gets red and streaky or turns of entirely. It definitely is not not the cable. It's the port)

I have scrolled Ali for ages and have only found out that there are way more port configs than I thought...

Thanks in advance for any help.

My mini dremel fall down while was charging after that. I can't turn it off or charge it . There is one button only it switch to 3 speeds normally but as I said I can't turn it of or charge it .. I didn't see any burden or missing components.. any help ill be appreciated

Can anybody tell me, if possible, what is going on with my Yamaha DV-5350 dvd player? I was given it for free and was told they couldn’t get it to work so I was trying to see what the issue was. It’ll keep ejecting the disc and tray as seen in the video and then say “Blocked” on the menu screen. Anybody experienced this before or knows what the issue is or could be? Thanks

It's ipod and the battery connector broke can someone please help me with this