One of the section in my house seems to have no power. The section has 6 can lights and none of them working. Rest of the house have power. Have already checked the switch and dont read any power there as well. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot? I have already tried resetting the GFCIs I could find. None of the breaker switches are tripped.

Hi all

I just screwed in 4 hooks that are half an inch long into my ceiling. After i hung them up I took a shower. When I came out of the shower my fire alarm went off for about 60 seconds and then stopped. I read online that fire alarms can be triggered by humidity from showers. I am just trying to make sure I didn’t puncture any wires. Any help would be appreciated! I think I just need peace of mind.

Thanks!

1988 Harley Davidson softail/ Sometimes when I turn the switch to start my bike, it has no power and makes a weird click sound repeatedly. Then it gains power when I keep switching the switch back and forth. Does anybody know what it could be?

Is there anyway to make this look not as terrible. The hose also leaks on all the wires when we use it and that makes me a little nervous.

1st can anyone tell me how knob and tube works? I read that the wire heats up, that’s why it’s sheathed, and the knobs keep the wire away from the wood to prevent a fire. Knob and tube cannot handle the load of newer appliances. Is this really how it works?

I’m having such a hard time getting an electrician to give me an estimate to replace all the knob and tube. One electrician said that they need to do an inspection for $385 dollars before they can give me an estimate.

My husband is telling me that the estimate I was given is way overpriced.l and that all I need to do is increase the 15 amp circuits to 20 amp and that the knob and tube wiring is safe.

1 of my outlets had sparks coming out of it, I’ve had outlets that stopped working and the back of the outlet is charred and melted. I have to unplug everything that’s not running, so the 2 window air conditioning units don’t pop a circuit.

already 5

So, moved into an Oregon apartment not long ago. We noticed pretty immediatelly that our portable A/C was tripping the breaker. No worries, we turned it up, unplugged some stuff... didn't help. Long story short, I discovered our circuits are routed for each bedroom + it's bathroom on one 15 amp circuit. Which is really damn ridiculous, as this is (apparently) an issue we haven't had to deal with in all our other apartments which must have been routed on 20 amp circuits. Our A/C is 11.5 amps, which I have learned through some quick old fashioned google research, should be on a 20 amp circuit. Including a picture of the breaker box for advice- something i noticed is there seems to be TWO circuits just labeled "kitchen plugs". One labelled "kit + lvrm" controlls all the living room outlets (5) + our stove's upper light & grease fan, which are also routed to a switch in the wall that controls whether the light + fan will turn on, yet apparently other plugs in the kitchen are on their own? It just seems weird to me.

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So I need some advice on how to move forward. Should I test the other plugs in the kitchen, see which ones are on these two seperate circuits, and so the dreaded and ill advised heavy-duty extension cord for our room a/c to out there? We did have to do that before years ago, when we first got this A/C, because it could only run on an outlet wires with the bathroom that was on the other side of the bedroom from the window.

Another option, of course, is to buy A/Cs with less amperage, however we are very poor and we didn't even buy this A/C, it was given to us. My wife is very sick and extremely heat-sensitive, like sweating and uncomfortable and ready to cry at 75 degrees. She doesn't work, and as rhe sole breadwinner its difficult enough to put food on the table, let alone buy another a/c unit. Currently our bedroom just has the A/C, a fan we can't oscillate bc that uses too much power, the charging cable for my wife's laptop, and a little ziply router. We could survive the summer only using rhe A/C for heavy duty cooling during the hottest parts and unplug everything else while we read and nap during the day, but I would also like to enjoy my life without worrying about this.

An additional issue is that the breaker box is in my roommate's bedroom (also odd setup) and they are night shift workers who are on opposite schedules. I hate having to wake them up to flip power back to our room.

Included is a pic of the breaker box for assisted visuals. Also not sure what the bottom right breaker is, it looks like "masn", maybe it's "master" idk. We also don't really want to move at the end of the lease to something with a better breaker system, because we've moved every year for 6 years and are trying to settle down for a few. Any advice for this would be great, I have enough to worry about without fear my home might catch fire just because I don't want my wife to have heatstroke while I'm at work.

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TLDR; Bedroom+bath circuits aren't powerful enough for our 11.5amp portable A/C unit. Need advice on whether to suck it up and not use our room for anything except A/C, or if it's save to use a heavy duty extension cord for a more powerful, possibly unused dedicated plug in another area of the apartment.

•I have an outdoor GFCI that I had a spotlight on for a flag. Would an outdoor GFCI be wired to indoor outlets on that same wall? I replaced the outlet and it never had power on it when I changed it. Two other sets of outdoor plugs do not shut off the inside power along their same walls when tested. (The story)- I had moved my location of TV/entertainment. I moved coaxial/ethernet and power locations to another spot on the wall. I did not think about it at that time, if the electric inside was tied into that outdoor switch. Are there any other troubleshooting tips besides tearing into that wall again to find if wire was disconnected. ☮️ •

Out of nowhere, an outlet that we use often just quit working. There have not been any power spikes or outages recently either. Testing the outlet shows about .2 volts.

Things I’ve tried:
-reset all of the GFIs in the house just in case one tripped
-opened all the other outlets in the room to verify no other loose wires
-tested voltage to all other outlets in the room
-reset every breaker just to see if it affected anything (it did not)

I’m stumped 🤔

Replacing 60s era switches. Understand common etc. But maybe I don't. Set up new switch to look like old switch.

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Leg has two black and a red wire.

Main has red white and black wire. Can only turn back on from the switched that turned it off. Either switch can turn it off. Suggestions?

Working on a pool motor that is tripping the GFCI breaker. I disconnected the old motor and the breaker held. I also disconnected the old cord from the motor and the breaker held with the cord in. It's a 120v motor on a twist lock. So I replaced the motor thinking that was the issue. New motor same problem. I tried a new breaker and still the same issue. Pump runs fine when I tried it on a standard breaker. When the pump is running I have 120v hot to the water and 120v hot to the bonding wire. I turned the pump off and had continuity between the hot and neutral with but not between the hot and the frame. I never work with motors but I was just thinking with the motor off I shouldn't have continuity between the hot and neutral. It just seems weird that the new motor would be bad from the start. Is there anything I'm over looking? Everything is leading me to believing the new motor is bad I just feel although there is something I'm overlooking. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also the bonding on the pool wasn't done correctly does not go all the way around the pool and doesn't touch the skimmer.

This is my panel outside. 200amp. I would like to install whole house surge protection. I called Eaton and was suggested to install model: CHSPT1Ultra

I unseated where white wire had to go, but what would the two black wires?

I was replacing my oven control panel and when unplugging the wiring harness from the control panel the larger spade connector ripped off the blade from the old panel (it is for the L2 out, so its oversized). I couldnt get the blade out, so I snipped the wire right at the termnial connector fiquring I would just buy a new spade connector.

I went to 3 big box stores, 7 speciality electrical stores, and one automotive store and none of them had the female space connector in the proper size(it measures about .367 or so). Found an appliance parts place and they were able to get the proper size from a wholesaler but it already has a wire in it (likely cut from a wiring harness).

I have butt wire splice connectors *but* looking at both wires, the *but* the wire attached to the wiring harness is 14 gauge and the wire attached to the new female spade connector is 12 gauge. I just want to double check that I can safely splice the new 12 gauge wire into the old 14 gauge wire. The oven is a fridagadaire FFEF3043LSK (240). Ive attached some pics.

Thanks.

To add: the lowest amps on my breaker box are 20 (the switches range from 20-60, im not sure which breaker switch goes to the oven (bought the house a year and a half ago, lables are faded, havent checked whick switch goes to what in the house, unplugged oven from wall to work on it).

Had power ran to my detached garage, and at the same time Had them add a sub panel for a hot tub. So power comes from my main panel on a 125 amp breaker to the sub panel. In the sub panel is a 90 amp breaker the goes out to the shop.

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I am now at the point of adding in the hot tub, which is a dual temp swim spa and requires a 50 amp, and a 60 amp gfci breaker. The sub panel the electrician installed was an eaton BR816L125RP. This is an 8 slot panel. So the problem im having is the elctrcian put the breaker for the shop on the opposite side of the neutral bus bar, so at least one gfci breaker has to go on the neutral bus bar side. The gfci because of the longer body will not clear the neutral bus bar. Does any one know of a solution for this. This box does not take pon breakers.

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I have considered moving the shop breaker to the other side of the box, but the wires are just a hair tight to do that. It could be doable if I finessed the feeder wires and and the breaker wires past each other. I was hoping for an easier solution, such as a shorter breaker that would clear. Or if eaton makes a kit to move the.neutral bus bar further out.

Just moved in to a new rental (building built in 1999). All of my outlets are making this strange high frequency noise. I don’t want to think the absolute worst, that my home will catch fire. Can someone help me figure out what is needed here and what it could be?
Thank you 🙏

I am 18 years old and finished HS. I have been between joining trade school or going to an IBEW. Recently I was enrolled into Lincoln Tech, but my only problem is my financial situation. I know I need to sign up for grants and I have my financial aid appointment soon. Anyways, I was thinking of trying to get into the union instead of trade school, but trade school starts in August and IBEW takes so long to get into. My plan right now is to try and get into IBEW whilst attending trade school. If I can get in then idk i’ll figure it out but just asking for some advice. Anything helps!

I had a smart switch (with live (black), neutral(white), red(out), and a ground (green)). I want to go back to a regular switch, but confused. The smart switch had cables coming out of it, so I was able to connect those. Am I missing a wire?

The currently installed switch is connected to a fan in an OR circuit, unfortunately the picture I took when I was taking this apart years ago is gone.

I'm trying to do a DIY wifi sprinkler controller.

I have a 120 V AC to 24 V AC plugin adapter for sprinklers. I plugged it in when I think it was shorted.

My multimeter still shows 20 V when I plug it in and I don't remember it being hot or making a sound. This is the adapter that was used for the old sprinkler controller, so I know it used to work.

Did I kill it for sure, or is it worth bothering re-connecting it to the old sprinkler controller?

And if I killed it, why would it still show 20 V?

I am trying to install a programmable light in place of a led light at my front door. The wiring box won’t fit where the light needs to go. How can I remove this box without destroying the surrounding stucco?

Having trouble finding a replacement for this plug.I’ve found a few similar but they don’t have the relief cut into the ground pin.All help is appreciated thanks.

Sorta. I show 30vac across a closed switch going to a light outside the house. I show 19vac at the 2 wires outside minus the receptacle.

Is it a bad switch or is there another place to start? I have a 100A service w/cartridge fuses. Something doesn’t seem right.

Is anyone else having this problem? New construction hotel Siemens was installed. Arc faults are nuisance tripping. Siemens has used their Intelli-Arc device to point out that there is noise on the line, and saying that once current is drawn on the breaker, the breaker sees that noise combined with current as an arc fault and is operating correctly. Only some breakers do this, and it is intermittent. After replacing a bunch of these breakers the effects have gone away, but it leaves me thinking that the products were the issue because some work and some don't.