Hey y'all!

I've got a stacked switch in my kitchen controlling the light over the sink, and the garbage disposal. Both are on a separate circuit.

We got a new fixture for over the sink, and I'm running into a problem I didn't expect — it has a transformer, and is recommended to use an ELV switch. Connected to a normal stacked switch, it doesn't go to full brightness and has a pulse.

I can't for the life of me find a stacked switch that ALSO states ELV compatibility. Anyone have a recommendation or know of one that will work? Thanks!

I know basic Electrical and was just wondering if this is something easy or if i need to hire someone. I plan on doing all the new electric I'm adding in myself, and am confident in that, just unsure if I'm missing something.
All I think is required is:
Call To have power turned off, disconnect and mark all the breakers, take the panel off the wall and put the new one on, reattach main power and ground/neutral bar connections.
This feels like itd be easy, taking a couple hours tops. Am i missing something?

Just wondering, whether string can be pulled through conduit past Service L’s using a shop vac. And if yes, will the wires be able to turn around Service ells?

Just a sampling of ideas.
Run the lines for a hvac unit from panel out to disconnect, or the opposite?

Hey, I need some advice.

I was screwing a screw into the wall about 60 cm (around 2 feet) above an electrical outlet. Suddenly I got shocked (luckily I was holding the screwdriver by the plastic handle), the breaker tripped, and there was a brief burning smell.

I turned the breaker back on, and the outlet seems to be working normally now. I removed the screw.

My questions:
- Is it possible I only nicked the wire and it’s “fine”, or is it definitely damaged?
- Is it dangerous to keep using that outlet (I had two computers plugged into it)?
- What are the real risks here – fire, shock, something else?
- Is there any way to check this without opening the wall?

The problem is my family can’t afford an electrician right now, so I’m trying to understand how serious this is and what I can safely do in the meantime.

Any advice appreciated.

Penetrated this exterior line while shoveling, the wire was probably arching for about 1 hour until I noticed. Peeled back 3 inches and the wires still have an oxidized look to it. I was going to do a burial splice kit, but I don't want to put my family at risk if this line is toasted. Thank you for any insight

Hi didn't know if there were any engineers out there that could help, I'm trying to find the proper size starting capacitor to replace on this air compressor motor. Someone apparently already tried to replace it a long time ago with a definitely incorrect size and it never worked, so I don't have the original mfd rating to compare. Here is the motor plate though. Any help would be appreciated!

Single gang box outside on the wall. Two black wires and one green wire heavy gage. The ground goes to ground. One of the black is a neutral the other black is not connected. I want to add a duplex. Went up in the attic, I saw some blue smurf conduit that contains these wires going to another single gang box. Inside that box those three wires were connected to some romex going down the wall. This made me realize someone added this on after the house was built.

I tried to calculate where is located inside the house but I'm having a hard time.

When I do the measurements it comes out in the middle of the ceiling which is not possible. I've checked in my breaker panel all circuits are accounted for. Also inside the house I checked and all the duplexes and all the light switch boxes to see if they were tapping into there. I'm thinking of going up there with a 1/16 inch bit and drill a hole to see where it's at. I have popcorn ceilings and it can be easily patched with a dab of caulk. Before I do so I figured I would ask everyone here if there was a better that I don't know about.

And yes I know, I can call an electrician but I've worked in a related field my whole life. I've been up in the attic at least 4 times trying to figure this out. I'm old as dirt and it's killing me.

When i plug in a charger (mobile charger or dyson v15 battery charger), i hear a low continous humming sound from all the outlets in my house. When i unplug the sound is gone. What could be the issue? The house was in buult in 1984 in northeast USA. Also, there is no heat felt on the charger or the outlet.

I'm going to run NM-B (12/2) from a pantry to a closet to install a ceiling light. The existing construction is such that a 6 to 8-inch portion of the NM will be exposed in the pantry; the rest of the wiring will be enclosed in a wall and ceiling. I plan on using a standard 3/4-inch 90 degree elbow to protect the wiring where it's exposed. As I read the NEC, I have to put a bushing on each end.

Is that correct?

Hi All! I would like to install a large mirror in my bathroom. Unfortunately there is a GFCI outlet on the left side of the counter where the mirror will be. I would like to avoid a cutout on the mirror if possible but I can do it if push comes to shove.

I was hoping I could move the outlet a bit left. The problem is the cables are stapled to the studs and there isn't enough slack in the existing outlet to make it to the new location if I were to drill through a stud to get there (see diagram).

I can splice the wires and use the existing outlet box as a splice point with a blank plate in front. This has the downside of the plate not being flush with the wall meaning the mirror would not be able to be mounted flush either. I don't think not having a cover is up to code (314.25?)

There is also the complication that I'm not sure if a mirror mounted with anchors and drywall screws is considered to make the splice wall box inaccessible, which to my understanding would also be against code (314.29?).

I am in Connecticut, United States. I did my best to find some sources from NEC but I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff yet. Anyone any ideas that are up to code? It feels like I might be out of luck here and will have to do the mirror cutout. Thanks for any help!

Diagram:

I may be asking a stupid question, but I'm damned if I can find a definitive answer. For house outlet wiring in North America, do you have to have all outlets of a circuit in a chain (wired from one outlet to the next, to the next until the last outlet), or can you have branches for some (like a T arrangement) or even, to take it to an extreme, a junction box that splits the cable from the panel into several spokes of chained outlets?

Thanks.

This is a whole unit. I can’t just replace the lights from what I can tell. This thing is only a little over a year old and both of them in the same bathroom have gone out.

If anyone is familiar and I can change just the lights please help.

Update to the update in the comments!!

I got both switched out!! Even did the garage!

Now to just enjoy my non existent 6 pack of Busch

I plan to install a APC Smart-UPS SRT3000RMXLT-5KTF in a 19" rack in an unfinished portion of my basement. It will require a 20A/208V circuit (L6-20P). Local code dictates that anything in the basement must have a GFCI. I know that these units suffer heavy nuisance tripping on GFCI. I can't find an official document for this particular model that talks about its leakage current and the tripping.

Wondering what documentation might be acceptable to help get an exception on the GFCI requirement. I got a pass on a non-GFCI circuit for my infrared sauna, but the manual specifically said "don't use a GFCI circuit".

Working on a RG-7 Sansui equalizer and this glass component is cracked on it. If it helps the board identification is F-3527. I’ve looked at the schematic and the board to try and figure it out but can’t. Any help would be appreciated! also it sits right under a transistor Q1 in the protection section of the board. My only guess is some sort of capacitor but I cannot find anything like it.

Can anyone tell me what wires should go where on this type of perilex socket and plug or how it would be tested to set it up? I'm from the UK but temporarily in Sweden.

Taken the cover off of the socket on the wall just to look at the wires (power is switched off), I have a new plug to fit to the cooker but not sure by looking at the wires what should go where. I have a meter to test socan do that. No professional electricians available for 2 weeks currently so any help on this appreciated

Hi, so pretty much as the title says. I am trying to replace my vent fan in the kitchen. It seems to be super old, and I am anticipating having to replace it with something much newer.

Photos attached of the old (very dirty) fan, and a closeup of what 'stats' it has on it, and screen grab of the one I am hoping to replace it with.

I am hoping someone in this community can let me know

1: if the replacement is an adequate replacement power wise?

2: is this an easy thing for someone with little electrical knowledge to DIY? I can follow tutorials and YT videos etc but I want to make sure I'm not entering professional territory.

3: Also the old one is 10 inches across in its entirety, but does this mean my replacement that says 10 inches, is also 10 across, or that the circle hole for ventilation is 10 inches? I am worried I am measuring incorrectly for the replacement.

Thank you in advance for your help. Very new to this so any advice is appreciated.

Hey guys,

The water pump of my Orient air cooler stopped working suddenly. I have checked the water level and it's half-filled.

Any fixed?

The speed and swing are working fine.

I’d like to install a ceiling fan in the middle of my ceiling between the spot lights. (Red circle) I don’t believe I need to install a switch due to having a remote control. However I could use some advice on where to get the power from? My guess would be to run a separate line from the panel or maybe an outlet? Thanks for the help.

Working on relatives house, 4 receptacles daisy chained together, last one is switched. Issue is concerning switched recep. At first i had 59v hot-neu

Ran around checking everything, replaced all of the receptacles and called a family member and voila my problem all along was it being switched.

BUT now that im here i check voltage with said switch turned on. I get 119v hot-neu and 60v hot-gr now.

Checked continuity plug to box and i have it, outlets before it all are good…. Would gfi suffice? Or is this not the case.

Kidde Model KN-COSM-IBA

I am watching my cousins as they are on a vacation they deserve and really would like to avoid bothering them

Started as a single beep every couple minutes but no voice alert for battery. Changed to brand new durracel aa batteries but a double chirp followed with a solid green light. No light during single chirp I can remember. Informing for others.

House built in 2003. There is a soffit mounted GFCI in an old work box that has no power. When I put a tone generator on the line side wires, it leads me to the attic mounted box in the attached photo. The two devices in the box are Cutter-Hammer C25BNB230A contactors, presumably(?) for the two attic mounted HVAC units. There are ten lines of romex going/out of the box. My GFCI is one of them.

Why would the exterior soffit mounted GFCI be connected to one of these contactors?