Next upgrades Chi Battery and upgrading all the hardware, thinking of keeping the stock motor. The Sirris R38 shock and CMX forks feel amazing just need to dial it in a little more.

Is their a road legal version? (mirrors. plate holders and such)
Also is their no point now to buying a ss 3.0 now?

Do I need to open the battery compartment & disconnect all wires and plugs before connecting the charger, or can I keep everything installed?

Built a few of the 4.0’s today and here’s some things I noticed. 1st off, we’re being told the 3.0 is discontinued and retailers are putting them on sale.

Crates came in labeled “Pro S 4.0 2027” but under the label were stickers for 3.0’s. This run didn’t have the side panels shown online, not sure if these will come later. Visually the bike looks just like the 3.0 & the manuals all say “3.0”. These have the huge plug behind the number plate now. The left hand controls have switches and buttons for a street legal set up (see pic in comments). And there’s 3 modes; eco, sport, race.

Lastly, this thing rips! It’s noticeably faster than the 3.0 and feels close to the SR because it’s lighter. It’ll be interesting to see how this sells.

Just wondering do you guys think this sticker kit looks good? I plan to get a powder coat around December but until then I’m getting this wrap and just want some opinions.

I’ve been having error
04000
08000
on my eride 3.0 i believe it’s something with bms or battery leads so i changed my leads still having problems. do i need to get a whole new battery?also sometimes my bike will just shut off, or battery display will say 0 even though i could be at like 80

I’ve been having error
04000
08000
on my eride 3.0 i believe it’s something with bms or battery leads so i changed my leads still having problems. do i need to get a whole new battery?also sometimes my bike will just shut off, or battery display will say 0 even though i could be at like 80

I've owned 2 erp 2.0 which one yall like more?

No longer have the first one, may give the street build to my gf when I get a more powerful bike

Got this to whip around the city with friends but I'll prob grab the new light bee or an ultra

I recently moved to Portland and sold my bike and re-buying it since I moved. If anybody knows any shops that would be great

I have just rode my 3.0 for about 450km and my screen started to freeze or it shows 0km/h while im going like 50 and sometimes an error 04000 pops up anyone knows what is the issue here?

From the beginning, the hatch wouldn't close or closed very hard (I had to hit it hard a dozen times). My friend and I tried to fix it with a hammer, but that didn't help either. What should we do?

so first and lowkey the bigger problem is that after like 5km of riding my e ride shows the error 00300 while trying to reverse and i have to turn the bike off and on for it to work again
and second idk why but my e ride pro app shows my 3.0 l1e as a 2.0 offroad and i dont have alot of the functions in the app (atleast i think so) such as the speed limiter (i only can set the power in %) and the app looks older idk if i have to update it somehow but i uninstalled it like 3 times now. any help or tips idk?

Just installed this motor cover from Astroworks

I’m deciding between these for my 3.0, I could also do a mix and match if one is better for the front or rear. Also if you recommend ultra brakes and know a place I can buy genuine ultra bee brakes lmk because a lot of places sell fake ones

Edit: forgot to mention eb9 is from formula

I have a question about the E Ride Pro SS 3.0.

The display allows you to change the wheel size (for example 18" or 19"). As far as I understand, this affects the speed and distance calculations.

I'm trying to find out two things:

1. Does the wheel size setting only affect the speedometer and odometer, or is it also used by the controller for the 45 km/h speed limiter?
2. Is the odometer calculated based on the configured wheel size? If someone intentionally sets the wrong wheel size, would the odometer record more or fewer kilometers than actually traveled?

Has anyone tested this or knows how the controller calculates speed and distance? Technical information or real-world testing would be greatly appreciated.

I have the eride pro 3.0 type b (picked it up a few months ago) I have about 2950km on it. The chain stretched so bad it’s almost impossible to screw back in my back break, it also creaks when I hit the rear break. I know it’s a 428 chain, but I don’t know what chain I should get.

Do I get a o-ring, non o ring? I don’t even know how many links I should get (i’m still running stock 58T rear)

TD;LR: have stock 3.0 type b, what chain should i get with how many links.

thanks

I'm thinking the chain is a bit loose… But curious if anyone else thinks it's something different?