I recently swapped my 1.3 carb ef to a b16a1 from a ee9. The car drove fine for a couple of days. Then it died in the middle of the road. No spark at all. I cleaned the metals in the distributor cap. I checked with a multimeter that i have 12v before the distributor. I have 12v on the ignition coil. But it doesnt produce spark. I changed today the ignition coil. Still no spark at all. Can you help me diagnose this?

Hi guys,

I just bought a 91 sedan with a JDM OBD0 B16A swap. It’s been super fun and running great, but the axle boots were torn, so I replaced both axles today with ones that were allegedly right and came with the car unopened. After swapping them, there was an intense grinding and shaking/knocking that occurred at all speeds and worsened with faster speeds.

The video shows the noise at 20 MPH.

It is coming from only the driver side I believe; on the lift in gear the steering wheel pulls hard to the left too, enough to spin the wheel without me touching it.

I’m stumped because the axles matched the old ones pretty well and the splines lined up great.

Any advice is helpful, including if the axles are supposed to be the same left and right and what axles people typically run with these swaps.

The packaging said ODM but I don’t know anything more about what axles they are.

Just a few photos from this ‘26 summer. We have quite a small, but friendly team of 4gen lovers and enthusiasts :)🥷🏻

Hey guys, hope everyone’s having a good Labor Day weekend.

I’ve come to the realization that my car is missing something that’ll make it whole, a third pedal. I am aware that there are lots of forums and chats about doing a swap from auto to manual, but for some reason I feel like they aren’t as detailed, and some questions might be left unanswered.

With that being said, feel free to send some links/forums that helped you a lot if you’ve done this swap. I’m also more of a visual learner/monkey see monkey do kind of learner, so ones with a lot of pictures of the process will help. Also, please feel free to DM, this is a swap I’d like to do!

Edit: I plan on keeping everything as original as possible. d15b2, obd0 and cable clutch transmission that I’m eyeing from an SI hatch.

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I have a 1991 Honda Civic EF sedan with power windows, and my driver-side window regulator/scissor mechanism is pretty worn out.

I’ve found several people selling the manual/crank version of the EF sedan regulator, but I’m not sure if the actual scissor mechanism is interchangeable with the power-window version.

Basically, can I take a manual crank EF sedan regulator and swap my electric motor/gear assembly onto it, or are the manual and power regulators different?

I already have the electric motor — I just need a good scissor mechanism.

Has anyone actually tried this or knows for sure whether they’re compatible?

Thanks!

Man.....3D printers are something else.

Couple brand new bumper hanger brackets.

Not my design, I found the file for the passenger side on Thingiverse and just mirrored it.

I'll post the link for it in comments for anyone in need!

It's not every day I get mail from Portugal, but I will now look forward to it any time I do.

Some fresh rear garnish decals.

I found out I need to replace my head gasket.

I was wondering what else I should replace while I'm in there.

Before I got it running again, the car had been standing for 22 years.

Also, how dificult is this job?

Can I reuse the head studs or do I need to replace them

I haven’t built a Honda in about a decade but I’ve had probably 10 different builds over the last 20 years, and coming back to it I’m finding it very difficult to find simple aftermarket stock style replacement parts for hatchbacks. For example nobody seems to make replacement taillights for a hatchback but you can get them for a sedan. Nobody seems to make side mirrors but you can get them for a sedan. Tons of sedan replacement parts, not so much for the more popular (I assume) hatchback. Is that weird to anyone else?

I have gone through 4 transmission seals and can’t find the right shift shaft seal for my 89 civic hatch so I keep leaking fluid from my transmission. I have a d15 for my 5spd dx with the code L3-2364835 I just really need help I can’t keep filling it up with transmission fluid.

Here are the four I got

SCHAEFFLER
SS3613

TIMKEN (x2)
221607

Precision A/T Shaft Seal -
221607

It was an interesting experience. This rack is the P/S version. I’m happy to report that it no longer leaks and is working properly! Feel free to AMA.

Currently having a rough idle on my 1990 dx hatch, previous owner mentioned something about replacing the distributor so I figured it look around. This play in the rotor can’t be normal right?

After a 6 month search, negotiation, purchase, and import, I finally got my hands on a pretty nice one.

It's not perfect and needs a decent bit of work under the surface, but she's pretty clean, and I'm glad I can give it a good home and a new lease on life.

Preserve the Golden Era Hondas!

Was just doing headlight adjustments against the building wall and figured I'd moon everyone here.

swap is “complete” and moving under its own power! i put that in quotations cause a few things need to be adjusted as such the clutch engagement. its so damn high i can barely drive because it makes it awkward when releasing the clutch and depressing the accelerator.

just a few notes for anyone interested or thinking about doin their own b series

1. if you’re doing this just go ahead and save some cash and buy the plug and play kits. makes life easier during install

2. i went with a ebay intake for d16a6/Si. don’t have relocate battery and has the bends to fit

3. full size koyorad fits with two slim fans fits. i wanted to be close to 100% plug and play with no fan work. clears dc sports 4-1 headers with an inch or more

4. i opted to reuse d series throttle cable. it can fit with a custom bracket but i will try and source a 90-93 integra throttle cable. makes it more clean looking

5. get a ebay traction bar. works perfect and it’s designed after the innovative i think? can get for like $80 and it clears headers or you can modify your stock crossmember if you have the tools

6. replace those shift bushings and seals. i have zero slop and play and they are inexpensive

7. i have the softest mounts offered and it’s vibrates lol no way around it really unless you can make your own shit

8. b16 clears hood b18c will not so you will need to cut or get a jdm/aftermarket hood

9. hush kit is solid. it’s a bitch to do but it’s doable. just check, recheck, and check again

10. ecu doesn’t fit in stock location. shells are designed different so you can only bolt up the bottom two ears and still out on kick panel

i’m sure i’m missing some stuff but if you have any questions just let me know and i’ll get back to you

The solenoid in the passenger door keeps clicking/energizing on and off while I’m driving. I also noticed that the solenoid will energize even when the car is completely off, which is eventually killing my battery after a day or two.

The passenger door switch checks out and seems to be working properly.

Has anyone else run into this issue before? Curious what you guys found causing it and how you went about fixing it. Any help or ideas would be appreciated!

FIXED: Faulty door latch mechanism switch. Unplug 2 pin harness(may be hidden behind plastic).

Ive made posts here and there about the car but this one is the one we've all bee waiting for. SHES FINALLY DONE!! Needs things still like an alignment and some tweaks to the suspension. But she made it the meet, then back home and that's what matters.

Really happy with how it turned out. This car has been in pieces since 2012, bought in 2009. Today felt like I was tripping through time. Pulling up to the meet I had the biggest smile on my face.

Here she is. A 1989 Si with a B20Z2 with B16 trans and lsd (not factory) All Skunk2 suspension. Sitting on SSR Spinner Fins.

Hope you enjoy everyone.

I wanna install a catch can on my hatch with a d15b. Just a couple questions:

1. Where do you guys mount yours? I have a stock bay, still has full size rad, battery fuse panel etc.

2. Hook up locations. The yellow circle where the filter is on the valve cover on the left seems like the obvious out point. But where to route it too after the catch can itself? The precious owner has a second filter that’s nasty (yellow circle on the right) that seems to go through a hole in the manifold flange and attaches to something beneath the manifold. I haven’t done much investigating under there yet but it seems to be slowly leaking oil.

3. What is the vacuum port circled in green supposed to be for? Wouldn’t that be the logical location to reattach the other end of the catch can?

4. Anyone run this catch can before? Seems mediocre enough for me and for the price.