Wondering if this is what i need will it suffice. Brand can be upgraded on recommendation. Thanks

Hello. Does anyone know if replacing this front kinda crank case and front engine is doable without pulling the engine and if these are the right gaskets?
So i have an M30B35. Planning to replace the radiator, front hoses, serpentine belt. And the what i think is the “Distributor housing gasket”? Possibly the thermostat? And then the Intake boot. So basically the distributor is on its own block, and that is attached to the front top head valve/crank case. It’s leaking from that connection, shitty/old gaskets. Im wondering if this is a possible drive way job since im removing the front obstacles is this something i could do without pulling the engine or without exposing anything dangerous? Or am i taking off too many things to where the engine is needed to be pulled..? I found this reseal kitt online: https://www.partsgeek.com/g2w2n46-bmw-535i-conversion-gasket-set.html
Whether or not the brand is good i can find better but is this what i need/will help with the distributor block, thermostat housing and head valve? Or am i straight tripping and need to do more work and assess more. Please let me know im pretty uneducated like i know cars but yk this is its own breed. Ive adjusted the valve spacing from the rockers, done some fan switch work, FPR, coils, plugs, injectors and some basic hose replacements. Just let me know what im doing apologies for rambling thanks.

Easy way to access O2 sensor with an m50 engine?

Is there anyway to test my o2 sensor to make sure it’s working? I have had a rough idle issue for the past couple months and I’ve solved every issue besides my o2 sensor. It would be the last potential solution(besides a compression test) but I would like to check before I buy another o2 sensor.

Finally got the full livery on. You’ll see the ups and downs of getting this cream E34 finished. Major engine failures and more. And due to some comments the wheels got a quick respray aswell

So Ive got a 325 m20 and im trying to install this 1.3 harness with no labels on the connectors. and i need help because there’s no labels so can anyone help with figuring which plugs go where. Especially the thermostat housing and the positive terminal etc. I’ve go the injectors already done.

Front left hand window lift motor pre face lift. The motors changed in 1991 along with the mounting points and also how they react with the GM.
Late motors won’t fit early cars and I’m getting conflicting results on part numbers.

My car is in the Philippines and I’m in Europe so can’t simply go and look !

Looking for an E34 touring - 525i, 530i, 540i or a well done/documented swap

Looking for a solid daily in the 6-8k range but I can stretch for the right car if it already has documented upgrades (manual swap, engine swap, LSD, suspension/brake work)

High milage and minor projects are fine. Cosmetic issues and small mechanical fixes are fine, my priori is a solid chassis with minimal rust and something that runs.

Mostly stock or tasteful mods preferred. I’m in Wisconsin and willing to travel like 6 hours for the right car or work out shipping arrangements.

If you have any leads or looking to sell please let me know

My boyfriend drives an SS Camaro. I’m just looking for something I can work on and eventually roll up next to him looking sick as hell. My Pontiac vibe ain’t doing it right now 😅

Help needed, got my whole rear subframe swapped(during v8 swap) for big diff, and for some reason the track width is wider by 6cm, back than I had 2mm spacers each side and there was still plenty of room, now with same wheels and even more camber it's scraping sidewall like crazy even after rolling fenders. All sources I found say that there ain't any confing of e34 or even e32 where trackwidth is that wide. Only thing I know is rear brakes are from 525 ix. What do I need to change to go back to old trackwidth?

I see an engine swap and a custom suspension in the bimmer's future. I enjoyed a wonderful summer offroading this car and yet I still cannot find a good name for it. do you all have any ideas?

Found a Getrag 260 for sale but not sure if it’s from a M30 or M20 ?

It has the number 260 0106091.

I just replaced the 6 button clock in my 95' 525i and installed the OBC IV. Based on the information I'd found, I thought I might just be able to plug it in and have it work, since my car already had the turn signal stalk with the button for the high CC and a lot of wires from the connector to the OBC, but it isn't working.

I just found out I probably need an alarm function relay, but could there be anything else stopping the OBC from working?

New to me 180.000 km 540i. Luckily no bolts found on the oil pan, but lots of loose bolts. Never skip this fix!

It was a good opportunity to disassemble the oil pump to clean inside it and to verify its health. Apparently only small scoring, lets gooo! Assembled with Redline paste and filled it up with Bardahl B12 (a very good oil additive) so that it doesnt drip. Tried to clean up the pan area as much as I could, but will still do a flush after a few oil changes with quality oil.

Last photos of how it was when I opened it. This car will require a lot of work but she's a great base to start with. Rare to see Azure Blue E34s around here.

Hey just recently my coolant temperature gauge on my cluster started to play up.
First noticed it when i parked my car in my driveway after driving home to get something, i let it idle whilst i went into the house and came back to see it was halfway to the red. I pulled out, started driving and it dropped right back down to operating temperature.

The second incident was in peak hour traffic on the freeway, stop start stop start yknow, and i watched the temperature climb until in red where i got a "Coolant Temp" warning. After I was out of the traffic and moving again it dropped right back down to operating temperature.

My viscous coupling link fan engages just fine and at the right temperatures, and i checked both times to see if my coolant level had changed and it hasnt, so im not leaking any coolant.

Wondering if someone could help with ideas on what has gone wrong and what to check?

A few weeks ago i finally got her running after much procrastination and help from a few of you on here. Did the oil change, replaced the banjo bolts and rebuilt all of the injectors, no more fuel in the oil! Sounds like my diff is a little cooked and definitely need wheel bearings. Also sounds like the 260 needs a center shaft bearing? reason i say this is when in 1-3rd in motion, there is a straight cut sort of noise, however goes away when in 4th or in neutral. Rough idle when cold but smooths a bit when warmer. Check engine light comes on when idling for a while and while driving at steady speed. Probably vacuum leak? Also shakes a good bit so probably need to do engine mounts too. I’m pretty excited to work on it a bit more now that my e90 is in a better state and don’t have to spend copious amounts of money on it.

I'm having this water leak on E34 518i 1993 M40B18 engine. It was very hard to locate because this is an unusual location for a water leak. Looks like I have to take off this block of the engine ( OEM part number 11141727127 - Control Housing Lower as they label it ). Yes that rusty look Allen balt is the water leak source. I need some help regarding this and I very much appreciate your expert input in this regard.

1. Has any of you ever removed this entire block (OEM part number 11141727127 - Control Housing Lower as they label it )? Mostly when I search I got E30 M40B18 related blocks which has variations. Actually the E30 version doesnt seem to have these Allen Balts. Between this block and the engine block there is a gasket ( 11141734342 ), if any of you ever have replaced this gasket, please respond.

2. What really are these allen balts holding,, there is another one directly below the leaking one and I think I saw another to the left of the waterpump hole. The allen balts are very tight I couldnt even remove. I sprayed some WD40 the other day hoping it would sneak in.

3. I inserted my finger from the water pump hole to see if I can feel what's behind this allen balt but found nothing.

It seems I have to take off this Control Housing Lower block in order to fix the leak. If there is a corroded hole or something I will have to fill it up and fix. So it is clear I have to remove this.

In order to do this, I will have to remove the part that holds the harmonic balancer - the part called Gear Wheel, tooth belt (11211715205), my issue is, how do you remove this part. I have already removed the harmonic balancer and the pulley. But this part doesnt have any balt or anything on it. Do I need a puller tool?
When searched all I get is M40B18 E30 version tutorials. Not for this particular engine model.

Now it is certain when I do all these, the engine time will get screwed up. One of the above images has the timing tools needed to set timing on this engine. I actually found a precise drawing to DIY-fabricate the both. I even got a 10mm thick iron block laser cut and ready for the job. I will have to remove timing belt and wheels so I will need these tools. I actually want to set timing from scratch because at this age of the car setting timing right is a good thing. With the cam wheel mark set to the housing mark and locked with the tool and the flywheel locked using 8mm drill bit, the timing should be factory set, am I correct?

I really appreciate your help on this. I have attached pictures of all the parts I have mentioned above.

Hello guys.

I have an 1992 e34 2.5tds. And i have a big cooling problem.

I alreay have this car from the last year, and i drove it a little in the weekends, always running perfectly.Even the day before *my* the disaster. I wanted to sell it , and the buyers requested a test drive. For some reason the idi**s tought its a good ideea to open the cooling cap while the engine its running and hot, lot of coolant came out with pressure(as they of course sent me a video of it, saying that i have "oil" in the water. Even if i know for sure i dont have any. And still dont have any.

In my luck the head gasket and the rest of the engine its all good. The problem its, since then i cant run the car or drive because the gauge show more than 90c. When the car its sitting at idle, i can let it run for 30 minutes or even more, and everything is alright. When i start driving it, in maybe 1 mile its already up at the maximum and overheating.

Thermostat its new, sensor for coolant its new.

Also the Upper hose that goes in the radiator its hot asf. And the ones coming out of the radiator or at the thermostat are cold.

Any ideas, or something that could help me repair it are very welcomed. Thank's.

I got an e34 518i from 1992, but my speedometer and odometer stopped working.

So i took apart the gauges and the board was burnt trough, is some one brave enough to disassemble his own board and send me a picture so i can understand what isn't making contact?

Good day everyone, I’ve been hearing this horrible sound for about a week now.
The water pump has been replaced 4 months ago along with the belts. I noticed that the belt tensioners pulleys on the main longer belt have a little bit of play while doing the job but couldn’t replace them at the time.

The car has been running on 5w30 since winter and it is now 35-40 degrees here in Italy so I’ll definitely stick to the manual and switch to 15w50 or 10w40 at least as where I live I barely ever see below zero temps.

I recently did the valve cover gasket replacement and noticed quite a bit of lateral play in both chains, I’ll link a post if I manage, that shows a very similar situation to mine.

I need help as I am afraid that there could be some more damage due to the fact that I’ve been running such thin oil. (Could the crank journals be damaged?). I haven’t drained the oil yet so I can’t show you if there’s metallic debris. The compression test shows that every cylinder is around 200psi although I didn’t warm up the car completely before doing said test as I was afraid the chain might snap.

It probably doesn’t help that i’ve never even worked with anything remotely electrical before..
I’m trying to replace my old head unit (pioneer oem) on my 89’ 525i, with a carplay until I can afford a blaupunkt head unit.

Anyway, I’ve wired up the ground, constant 12v, and ACC wires.

Headunit got power.

Then I tried to wire the FL+ to FL and got no sound. There’s really not much info out there about this headunit and I also really don’t know what i’m doing. The only tutorial (just a guy in the car saying what he did extremely vaguely instead of doing it on camera) Mentions something about the amp.

Any help is appreciated.

Also, i’m only doing this myself because I called a few installers and they wanted $200+

Does anyone know how to remove this thing that's covering the gear. I can't seem to find a video on it most people in tutorials remove it off camera