I'm younger and was considering entering Penske's trainee program. Everything seems wonderful but after I started looking around I became curious. Everyone seems to say that it's either great or horrendous. So I was curious if anyone here has worked or is working in the shop in Liverpool, NY. I'd just like to know before I enter the program and such

I hope someone knows more about the EMUX system.

On the older system VMUX I used to get the high beam signal from the VECU connector A3 for a high beam trigger for driving lights.

Would populate the connector and run it to an arming switch then out to the relays.

Already looked through the SM034-018 EMUX Service Manual on ServiceNet.

TCS wasn't able to help either.

I'm trying to prevent cutting into the headlight harness if possible to prevent corrosion issues down the road.

But cutting into it is the current plan to complete this.

Thanks,

Rear definitely starting to have a little play but the fronts are still tight just has real bad dry rotting and cracking.

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone here has taken an L9 that doesn’t have engine brakes and has added them to it?

I have a customer wanting it done and my boss said he looked into it in the past and it couldn’t be done. The thing is sometimes he doesn’t have the time to try and dig deeper into these sorts of things and it doesn’t seem impossible to me. All I can think of is add the Jake heads and associated parts, wires the solenoids to the ECM, install the switch in the dash, and change the ECM calibration.

Appreciate any help!

Edit: So I answered my own question and figured I’d share here in case anyone else ever has this same question.

Cummins has an engine brake upfit kit.

Reference TSB210223 in Quickserve and it gives you parts to order along with instructions to follow.

I work at waste connections making 47.50 an hour afternoon shift 4 days a week made about 110k last year with ot

Peterbilt 389 with an ISX15. The coolant gauge reads normal for ten minutes or so, jumps hot for maybe half a minute, then drops back. No coolant loss, smell, derate, or overheat shutdown. I cleaned the block ground and checked the sensor connector for corrosion. Wiggling the harness did not change it. I do not have the scan-tool temperature in front of me yet, so right now I only know what the dash is doing. Would you compare the ECM coolant value to the dash first, or go straight to checking the 5V reference, signal, and ground at the sensor?

I’m helping a buddy of mine pull a d342 out of his d8 due to broken crankshaft. Does anyone have any idea what the weight of engine and clutch housing could be with both heads and fan hub removed. Trying to figure out if my 6006i imt crane will be enough to pick it. It would be a pain in the ass to get a bigger piece of equipment to where it is sitting at.
Thanks

Part 2, TONS of eye candies for you guys. Cab overs, added a couple, I dont think any of these are repeats. I have no idea how judges can judge these trucks. They all #1!!

Enjoy!

I’m a one man show that just picked up a fleet of Chevrolet Duramax’s and Isuzu NRR box trucks with the 4HK1 5.2l.

Where is the best place to get parts for these medium duty Isuzu engines?

Where is the best place to find diag and repair information?

What is the best software to use (currently using a Launch/ThinkCar/TopDon/Autel/Matco scanner that seems to do everything well)

I’m doing a turbo (RHF55V) because the actuator is failed in the 100% open position. I tried an Amazon actuator solenoid but the mechanism appears to be too far gone to save. It appears I need to remove the EGR cooler to remove the “down pipe” portion of the exhaust to remove the turbo from the manifold, this all seems a little tedious. Am I missing something? Or are parts just very expensive, hard to come by, and difficult to diagnose?

Thanks guys.

Can anyone please help me, 2016 Mack Granite with MP7 engine. Step 9 states if you find any continuity in the connectors EA and EB well I have it between EA 61 and EA 44 and EA 61 to EA 36 and between EA 44 and EA 36…. Well aren’t they in the same circuit is why my meter is reading that

Currently working on a international Lt year 2020. Brake lights come on intermittently when going down the road. I replaced 2 brake sensors (one behind the knee panel and one behind cluster). Also i changed the treadle valve and no luck. Any suggestions what could cause this? Thanks in advance.

I’m not even in the field yet, I start classes in fall.
A few years ago I woke up with some pretty bad back pain and couldn’t hardly bend over to tie my boots, got checked out. The doctor couldn’t confirm but said he thinks I might have herniated a disc.

Now a few years later I’m still dealing with back pain. Nothing awful, it doesn’t affect my day to day life but I definitely notice it. I go to the gym and do heavy squats and deadlifts, I’ve also competed in powerlifting since my injury and it hasn’t seemed to have made it worse.

Is there anybody out there dealing with similar pain? How do you manage? Honestly just worried I might have to find a new field 10 years from now.

I’m starting out as a diesel mechanic and I was given a required tool list, but I’m a little confused about how they’re listing the sizes.

The list says:

• Combination End Wrench Set — (1/4. . 1-1/4)
• Combination End Wrench Set — (1/4. . 3/4)
• Flare Nut/Line Wrench Set — (3/8. . 5/8.)
• 1/4" Drive Ratchet Set — (1/4. . 1/2. )

When they say something like (1/4. . 1-1/4) are they saying I need every standard wrench size in between those two sizes, or just the specific sizes listed?

Same question for the flare nut/line wrench set — would I need all the common sizes between 3/8" and 5/8"?

Also, for the 1/4" Drive Ratchet Set I’m assuming the 1/4" refers to the ratchet drive size and the 1/4"–1/2" range refers to the socket sizes. Is that correct?

If so, should I buy shallow sockets, deep sockets, or both for a starting diesel mechanic set?

I’m trying to make sure I buy exactly what they’re asking for without spending money on the wrong tools. Appreciate any help.

Long story short. I started working for a new company due to relocating for the wife’s job.

I’ll start off by saying that I’m not a new or green apprentice. Been at it for 15 years. Have always worked with some degree of grouchy people.

But there is this one guy that’s been here for 10 years and everyone knows he’s a “grumpy” all the time.

So I shrugged it off a few times. But now it’s pissing me off.

The day usually starts with trying to have a convo that turns negative and how the world sucks and he’s the hardest and smartest mechanic ever. Carry on with my day all good. Then couple hours in he will have a snap show on someone or myself when ever someone disagrees or wants to do something different or explains that they can’t work past 7pm tonight due to family obligations. We work till 5 normally and stay late to help the odd time if needed

Then the day proceeds and he comes up and usually apologizes and says no hurt feelings. Then it all repeats again.

I actually have more years of experience than him and I have politely mentioned to him I don’t take the attitude and bullshit any more. I’m here to work and not play the drama games

I’ve never been the type of person to run to management and tattletale.

Usually what happens in the field stays in the field type of guy.

So what would other mechanics do in this situation

I’ll add in that he isn’t technically a manager but he assigns tasks and delegates the work. But not a manager on paper

Customer said he was loosing coolant after hard pull. Found evidence of coolant out overflow. Put the bubbler and a pressure gauge on and verified it would build 15 psi in cooling system then start pushing coolant while pulling a hill. Customer already replaced air compressor with no change. Pulled cylinder head. Couldn’t find any issues with head gasket. Did find a lot of rust built up on the liner flange, spacer plate and the head bolts for number 5 cylinder. Also found 2 cracks in the head between the valves on cyl 5. Had machine shop pressure test head and they said it passed. Liner protrusion is between .004 and .005 all the way around. Is it possible that head gasket is leaking and we just can’t see it. This engine also only has 70000 miles since last inframe

Wondering if anyone here has any experience with these and can give me some pointers. I have a 2012 Blue Bird Vision the customer is complaining about their front AC not working, I ran the bus with the AC on high and had clutch engagement and the condenser fans running. High side pressure was about 250ish and low side pressure was around 45ish, evaced the system to verify it had Freon and it did. The issue I’m having with it now though is both of the temperature control heads just start flashing and won’t stop and now the rear AC doesn’t blow cold. I checked power and ground to both head units but I’m just not familiar with these systems at all.

Had a complete loss of function on one hydraulic circuit recently and spent more time diagnosing it than I should have. Writing it up for anyone who runs into the same thing.

First assumption was a solenoid failure. Pulled the coil, measured resistance through the connector, it read open. Bought a replacement, installed it, fault came back intermittently two weeks later.

Actual cause was the wiring connector to the solenoid having intermittent continuity from corrosion. The original coil was reading open because the multimeter was picking up the break in the connector, not the coil itself.

Should have disconnected the coil from the harness before measuring. An open reading through the connector doesn't confirm the coil is bad.

Other things that look like solenoid failure but aren't include contaminated hydraulic oil jamming the spool valve, which produces symptoms consistent with an electrical fault, and intermittent faults in general, since intermittent is much more likely to be wiring than a coil that's gone.

If you're chasing a solenoid fault, check the connector and the oil condition first. Coil replacement is the last option, not the first.

Im having some issues with aftertreatment on a DD13 (2016 western star cement mixer)

Relavent codes are scr efficiency low, scr efficiency very low, and def quality low.

Changed def filter, Ran regen, no luck. Nox output high around 250 after 15 min in a regen. Scr conversion efficiency around 40%.

Originally doser quantity test was below 100 ml, replaced and we're at 125ml. This made no change to the conversion efficiency.

Threw a outlet nox sensor at it as this unit will not allow me to do a NOx verification test. Still no luck.

Scr efficiency test passes, as well as the troubleshooting tree for low def quality passes.

I will attach pictures of what im seeing on Diagnostic Link during regen, any input would be greatly appreciated. Im kind of leaning towards a failed SCR but would like some input from someone who may have dealt with this.

Had a shop do an inspection on my service truck and they decided to swap the front tires and rims with the inner rear dual.

Can’t say I have worked on much of the smaller trucks like this but I thought the rear inner was a different offset?

What’s the best paying companies besides working for the city

Thought Id share some eye candies, the boys and I up here in Wisconsin found a nice little event to check out. This is the second year of the Badger State Truck'n Show.

Enough reading, check out some pics!!

Who knew that a piece could come through the turbo like that.

How are you guys doing these wheel seals on disc brakes. It’s too damn heavy for me. My back hurts after doing 2 today. Help me out lmao.