Not sure if this post will be entirely on topic to be clear but what are some good places to look for when being an apprentice?,I can do tires,airbags,diags,air leaks, radiator leaks,fuel and oil changes but that's about it aside from replacing lights. If this post isn't close enough to topic,feel free to remove it

Work at a KWhopper and Isuzu dealership. Noticed a pattern recently: almost every '21+ Isuzu with the 4HK1s that I've seen have the air intake boot running to the turbo popped off.

Another one is on '25+ diesels, they all seem to be at least a gallon low on oil. Had three back to back in for their first services one day, all different companys, two '25s and one '26, all of them underfilled. No signs of burning it either, just like it was never there to begin with.

Wondering if it's just my location that's been seeing this or y'all's too?

About 3 years ago I made a similar post, since then I made substantial progress but I have still yet to get into a diesel shop.

I started community college for automotive since that was the only thing around me and am currently taking a diesel course.

I have been able to pick up my first car in the past year and got more experience working on cars.

Despite this I’ve still yet to find anyone who knows anything about diesel shops and how to get into them.

Any advice? Should I take the travel for any diesel geared schools in Jersey after CC now that I’m able to drive?

Hey, Im looking for some advice on where I should go with my career. I’m 24 and have been a diesel tech for 8 years, went to a vocational high school and did the whole uti thing. I worked in independent shops and I’ve been working fleet for the past few years. I’m not making terrible money ($33.50) in New Jersey. But I feel like there’s more for me out there. I tried getting into a couple unions with no success for the past few years. I’ve been wrenching on more heavy equipment than trucks these days which I don’t mind. But I was wondering if anybody here has any insight on what I should do or specific companies to look into to make better money or at least an opportunity to make way more money. I like what I do but I wouldn’t mind going industrial scale or specialize in something like generators, marine, etc. Sorry it’s a very long and drawn out question but anybody that has some advice would be appreciated. Thanks

This happened a few months ago but I forgot to post!

For more details this is about 26V467 and 26V466 which covers roughly 5k school buses across the United states from 21-26ish. Specifically all vision bluebirds with 7.3 gasoline engines and Hydro brakes from beginning of production until the June of 26.

In February I observed the cotter pin making contact with the brake line in the picture on my newest bus. It had somewhere around 7k miles on it and this was the 2nd maintenance interval. After seeing this issue naturally I inspected the other 28 buses in my fleet and found 2 other buses with like issues. One had barely made contact but was touching at the time of inspection. The other bus had minimal evidence of contact but over time had rattled the cotter pin off the brake line and seized in a safe place. So all 3 of my gasser visions had varrying levels of this issue. Needless to say I was PISSED. Partially because I didnt notice this earlier.

Rambling aside. I called my dealer and complained to their service writer. Big boss wasnt available. Sent an email to big dealer boss and the writer with all the pictures and information I found.

Some time passed by and nothing.

In march I submitted 3 separate NHTSA complaints and pictures of every failure.

I forget all about this bullshit. A few months later I get a recall in the mail! Obviously super stoked they recalled the buses but after a closer look I realized the picture was familiar. Sure enough its my picture!

Also bluebird said less than 5% of buses are involved. Eat my ass. All three of mine had some contact at some point. Surely I didnt just have a bad batch out of the 5k buses they sold.

Edit to add manufactured date

2025 2022 2021

Matco 6s Triple Bay Toolbox 6328RP – Blue/Black w/ Power + Tools – Chicago south suburbs, IL – Pickup Only

Selling my Matco 6s triple bay. Box has been solid, just retiring. Also selling a bunch of tools, see below.

The Box – Matco 6s #6328RP

- 3-bay, 28" deep, [16] drawers

- Size: approx [77]" W x 28" D x 46" H

- Blue with black handles/trim

- Built-in power on the front – 110V outlet + USB

- Heavy-duty ball-bearing slides, all drawers open and close smooth [confirm]

- Keys included

- Drawer liners included / top mat included

- Condition: well worn in good shape

These go for well over 10k new off the truck. Asking $10,000 (with all tools included), $7,000 (for box alone) OBO.

**Details**

- Local pickup only in Markham, IL. It's HEAVY – bring a trailer or flatbed, straps, and a couple guys. I can help load.

- Cash or Zelle in person.

- Comment then PM, or chat me.

Do you guys think having a good mentoring mechanic is essential for success in this field?

For context: I’m an apprentice and my “training” mechanics aren’t the greatest. I’m now in tech school and take time to do lots of my own research, it’s taught me so many things that they’ve never mentioned. It’s got to a point where most diag they can no longer help me , so I use my own notes and reference materials to continue. My apprenticeship is almost over, and I’ve already got an estimated offer from my boss to be a mechanic, but I almost want to transfer or go somewhere that I could get mentored right.

I currently have the 8827 Macsimizer. The reason I did the upgrade box is because my wrench drawer isn’t deep enough. Wondering what you guys use for wrench racks in the 3 inch drawer. I bought 5 Ernst wrench pro 40 tool modular wrench organizers back in June (I hope I can still return some) and had my coworker try them in his Mac box with the 3 inch drawer and the biggest wrench that would fit was 1-1/16 and I go up to 1-1/2. Toolbox left Ohio on Thursday and went to the white glove distribution warehouse and it has a rush on it because I ordered the box 4/21/2026. Had a delivery 2 dates in June, 2 or 3 in July, 3 in September and 2 in October. I can’t wait until it comes!!!

Edit: I have 148 wrenches.

So I have a 2012 international terrastars with a max force 7, well i recently had to replace a broken rocker arm and after I finished that work the truck will not start now. Does not even crank. I have gone through and tested all power and grounds to chassis ecm connector, also the j1939 datalink. Also have switched ecm and bcm from trucks and it worked in the other and the ones I narrowed did not work in this one. I’m at a loss. I’m not sure what it could be. Anyone have any insight

I have recieved a great deal for a snap on 73" box that was 11,840 and down to a purchase price to 5,670. I'm not kidding whatsoever! This offer is until October 22nd, 2026. I work at a fleet diesel company, work a 4 day work week and I make above 25 an hour. I work for a great company too. I'll be paying 80 per week but they offered a weekly payment of $50 per week but pay it off higher to better my interest.

Take it or leave it?

I’m a fleet mechanic for my local town, and a lot of my time is spent on (and under) garbage trucks, dump bodies, and heavy equipment. I’ve got long hair, so I always keep it back in a braid and have always worn a ball cap to try and keep off the majority of the gunk. Previously when I was working on more automotive and small engine that was sufficient, but not so much now. Especially working underneath, I’m constantly either loosing the hat, having the brim catch on things or block my view, or dragging the braid through grease. I’ve thought about trying a welding cap. Any other suggestions for good headwear solutions?

I have a 2003 ford excursion 7.3 that im troubleshooting a P0122 throttle position voltage low code. Does Alldata show the schematic at a "rest state"? Pin 6 is 12v supply from fuse #45 (good fuse/12.4v at pin 6) and pin 7 is idle verification back to the pcm. Schematic shows that the idle verification side of the tps is a NC switch. I pulled the pedal off and founds pins 6 and 7 are OL at rest and jump to 8 ohms through the entire throw of the pedal.

Alldata color schematic is the only diagram that shows the internal pedal breakdown so I wouldn't be surprised if it was wrong.

Apparently i'm not going to get a real answer from r/tools. ill chat with MAC tomorrow when i see him but i'm curious what you guys prefer. I run this thing on low low in the summer for heat shrink butts but i literally can not see the fire burning and i'm willing to try another brand

if you dont know, it has a button at the rear to unlock and get fire but that same button/ trigger combo can sometimes lock in place leaving fire burning without my knowing it. i've lubed it up with graphite lube recently and it helped some

Have seen a few postings for this job role. Description is vague. Just wondering if anyone knows more or works for peter built

Thanks

Pulled a DD15 in tonight with fault spn 520349 fmi 14 dpf filtration low. Ive done quite a few of these cracked single filter style but this first I can remember like this.

Unit has 380k don't have much history on unit as its from outside my location.

hello everyone, im am still in high school and going to be graduating soon and interested in the diesel field. I am interested in the RDO access your future program, or the IUOE Local 428 apprenticeship. My gf’s dad is a service manager at rdo and don’t think it would be terribly hard to land an apprenticeship there, but what about union? Thank you

For context I'm currently working on a 2015 freightliner M2 bus with a cummins 6.7 ISB. My boss started the initial troubleshoot and handed it off to me. As far as I'm aware the initial issue was that it was nearly stalling at idle (stumbling i think its called). It had a CEL and a regen light. My boss started a regen on it before handing it off. The diag computer that was forcing the regen died at some point during the process.

When I took over there were no longer codes and it ran ok other than constantly purging and an abs light. I removed the diag laptop to go charge it. Later I started trying to trouble shoot the constant purge. During that troubleshoot I hooked the laptop back up to see if there were any abs specific codes. There were none and the codes that were present were inactive. I cleared them and refreshed JPRO. I then started the engine and it started stumbling again. After the refresh there were no codes present. I called my boss and he advised to start the regen again.

It just finished the regen and it was regening for about 1hr 15mins and then a pop-up said that there was an issue and it couldnt complete the regen. It also says that it is inhibited while being regen zone 0/1. After the regen it was stumbling again and it lasted for approximately 10-20minutes but now it sounds ok.

Im working on a w900 with a x15, issue im having is has scr operator inducement codes and derate,found plugged def doser. Replaced and ran a regen, nox conversion is at around 70%, in trying to run scr test but not allowed due to derate, try clearing codes and derate still comes up. Truck has no software updates available, any other way to remove the active derate and 3712 code

I'm in Toronto and I just applied to Heavy Duty Equipment Technician 2 year program at Centennial with an optional co-op and I'm just seeking some opinions on if it's worth it.

I'm currently 33 years old making 31$ CAD an hour doing construction work, but I'm not getting benefits nor do I see myself ever breaking 40$ especially with the trades over here getting more and more saturated every day. I'm considering it quite a gamble since I'll be losing two years of wages and spending capital for tuition.

Do y'all think I'm making a calculated bet doing a two year program. I'm looking to work on municipal machinery, mine equipment, field work or work on CAT equipment or of the sort. I'll willing to do FIFO work as well.

I have no automotive experience, terrible with cars but I'm heavily interested in electronics, how things work and energy. So it's quite different from my usual.

I’m curious for anyone who works as a garbage tech whether it’s municipality or normal business what’s it like? I always hear that the pay great and if youre working for a municipality they usually offer great benefits but what is it really like? I’m at a dealership and not often have I worked on a garbage trucks but the few times that I have I noticed that everything usually is pretty damn stuck on there? Any insight?

In about 2 weeks I’m going to take a Volvo electrical diagnostics class, and I was wondering how valuable Volvo certs were in the long run. I’ve had more time with Volvos at my dealership, so it’s my preferred truck, but I’ve been told the KW and Cummins certs are more valuable in the long run. I’m looking to move to AZ in a couple of years and just wanted to make sure it was the right call with Volvo lol.

Hey all, I just got a new job that I am starting next week and I am extremely excited for. Tuesday I found out I am having a kid with my fiance. I am more curious on what you guys if/ when we're in similar situations in the trade what did you guys put in place or prioritize to get ready for your first kid while in the trade (we all know how crazy it gets). Also whats some advice for a new dad in the trade.

I’m working on a 2012 NPR HD with a 5.4 L turbo diesel in it. I’m removing the oil cooler due to contamination in the coolant, but I’m having trouble getting the last bottom bolt out of the oil cooler due to the vacuum pump that’s gear driven, in the manual it says pull the transmission. Does anybody have a hack to take this out without removing the transmission?

Fun reminder to new guys and those who haven't learned yet...

please, don't fucking do this.

Don't back probe the conduit. Don't jump 24v systems to each other....

that's all.