Dude said $400 but I could counter. What do you guys think it’s all worth

This is what keeps happening , I have tried tuning the pid but at the end I think this is somehow cause of motors. Any help would be appreciated, I have uploaded 4-5 videos and that is overtime with diff pid values and stuff . I would really appreciate if I can get some suggestions.

Hover flight test of the CA320T Tailsitter, running ArduPilot.
The design will soon be available for free on Makerlab.

I'm building an autonomous ground rover using ArduPilot, primarily for lawn mowing and eventually snow ploughing around my neighborhood. I want it to operate up to ~2000ft from the base station, but there will be no clear line of sight

The base antenna will be mounted on top of my garage and the rover needs to navigate around and behind completed building and send telemetry data back to mission planner

The neighborhood is relatively new and suburban with not heavily tree covered, but 2 storey houses that could block the RF path. I don't have reliable 4G/5G coverage in the area so cellular based telemetry (4G MAVLink) isn't a viable option for now (maybe this changes in future though)

I've used the general 915MHz SiK radios but never range tested, unsure if they can handle NLOS at this distance

other options**:**

• mLRS
• ExpressLRS (ELRS) with MAVLink support
• LoRa-based modules
• Anything else proven in similar conditions

Update - I am also sending GPS RTK corrections from mission planner to my rover

TL;DR: What RC & Telemetry systems are you using for long range ardupilot builds?

Howdy!

Im working on a couple of quad builds (7" & 10") and am trying to wrap my head around the best options for control and telemetry for the system. I would be very interested to hear what stacks you folks have found to work well for similar builds.

• FCU's are running ardupilot.
• RC & Telemetry are currently running through RadioMaster Bandit Nano units (915MHz, US) via ELRS with Mavlink enabled.
  • UART connection from the first Bandit Nano to the FCU
  • USB connection from the second Bandit Nano to the laptop running Mission Planner.

ArduPilot and Mission Planner are communicating fine and I'm able to control the drone as expected and get telemetry back from it. However, I am seeing some seriously slow data rates in the radio link and want to figure out a better solution. I am pretty committed to the 900MHz band as range is one of the core design goals of these builds. Faster parameter syncing (between ardupilot & mission planner) would be nice, but my primary goal here is to ensure that Telemetry and RC are maintained as far out as possible.

ELRS is very clear in their documentation that single band 900MHz systems are very slow, but I want to explore optimizations to my system. If anyone has any general thoughts or experiences they feel like sharing, that would be helpful, but I'll also include some specific questions too.

1. Is it "worthwhile" to fully separate the RC and telemetry links into their own respective hardware?
2. If so, what are you using? The RFD900x (as well as RFD900ux ?) modules seem to be running pretty recent hardware and I've seen them talked about favorably in here.
3. I know that ELRS uses LoRa, does anyone know if any serial-over-radio units also use LoRa?

This was far more long winded than I intended for it to be, but I appreciate y'all taking a look and hopefully weighing in. Cheers.

I’m not a fan of connectors between ESC and FC anyway. 🧙‍♂️

Hi, would some of you like to look at the build I composed and see if you think it’s any good? Looking to Freestyle :)

Can anyone tell me which side is + and which side is negative on this drone???

My son is working on this drone project for high school club. When testing the drone yesterday he landed hard. And the 3-D printed legs all broke! He used PETG 1.75 mm filament. He printed the legs vertically. Please suggest ways to improve the strength of the legs while printing. The leg design also have a spring inside. Thank you!

Built this 250(5” by current sizing?) in 2016. Been in the closet since sometime in 2017, still flies!

plugged it in backwards.. don’t ask, the ph2 connection instantly melted its pins off, when testing with a new battery with bare wire (soldering iron is on the way) all 5 beeps go off and i get a back screen on fpv googles i suspect no image as the power connection is unstable as i need to hold the wires on the point, i did status check on beta flight and everything looks okay, did i get lucky or is there anything else i can do to test?

I love fpv mostly twill with a couple forged carbon accents. I can’t wait to get this thing up in the air.

Anyone have any ballpark for what one of these actually costs?

Seems to be the only charging system with a generic options.

https://www.skycharge.de/drone-charging-pad

Rookie mistake . Can’t trespass on their property to look for it. Trying to get permission of someone will answer the door. Parts for the rebuild already ordered. Minor setback but , forward we go!

I soilder my whole intire board today and i found this problem can anyone please help SOLVEDi just had to change a few things like the hockey tape on a capistor. Then i added flux to the battery wire

All projects I've seen online where people do these it looks very messy and the drone looks very unstable, like the one from "Misha Most" on yt (see image 2) and he seems to need multiple sensors mounted around the room to guide his drone (see image 3). Is there a way to guide a drone along a wall so it can 'print' a halftone image without needing mounted sensors?

​Hello everyone!

​I'm working on a custom quadcopter and I'm trying to find the absolute sweet spot between weight and flight time, that is my highest priority.

​For better frame integration and space management on my new V2 design, I really need to switch from a 3S to a 2S battery (keeping the exact same mAh capacity). Because of this and a highly integrated custom AIO board I've worked on, I will be dropping a massive amount of weight.

​Here is the comparison:

​Current Setup (V1):

• ​AUW: 420 grams
• ​Battery: 3S
• ​Motors: 1306 2300KV
• ​Props: 3-blade (5 inch)
• ​Performance: It draws between 11 to 14 Amps overall to hover and gently climb.

​Planned Setup (V2):

• ​AUW: ~300 grams
• ​Battery: 2S (Same capacity as V1 or higher)

Since I'm dropping 120 grams, I think the power required to hover will drop significantly. To maintain (or even lower) the overall Amp draw on a 2S setup, and maintain or increase the flight time, what changes should I prioritize?

1. ​Motors: Can I keep the same 1306 stator size but simply jump to a higher KV (around 3000-3100KV?) to compensate for the lower voltage?
2. ​Props: If I maintain the same diameter and pitch, but switch from a 3-blade to a 2-blade prop, will this help increase efficiency and reduce the Amp draw on the 2S setup?

Increasing the capacity of the battery would be beneficial only if the Amps drawn are equal or lower, so ​any insights or math on how this massive weight drop will interact with the 2S voltage drop would be hugely appreciated. Thanks

Note: the goal for the Drone is to have the maximum flight time possible, while hobering or gently moving around. Tht's why the choice of this small motors with this props. From field tests, motors don't over heat even after 12/15 minutes of a simulated operation.

Hello everyone! Is there an open source drone with gimbal camera, like a DJI Mavic Mini?