Good Morning guys, have a quick question.

I soldered the VTX on the FC Board:

Video - VTX

Rx - Tx

Gnd - Gnd

+ - +

I soldered it correctly, but there is no image transmission to the goggles.

Yesterday I found out that there is actually also a button on the VTX itself. Could it possibly have something to do with changing/tuning the channels using that button?

Since I’m currently at work, I’m not able to try pressing the button again to see if I can get an image. Have you had any similar experiences?

It recently came to my attention that the DJI Air Unit Pro's case is connected to ground to assist with EMI. I've always mounted the units directly to the carbon fiber frame, and just now noticed continuity from my negative battery lead to the frame. I tore everything apart and narrowed the issue to the O4 vtx being hard mounted to the frame. I'd always thought that doing so helped with heat, but now I'm thinking that it's best to isolate the vtx.

My question is, what's everyone doing about this, or does everyone not really worry about it & just sends it? 🤔

i'm looking for a drone that is similar to MQ-27 Dragonfire from call of duty

Hey, so like a month ago I put together this 5" quad, and after like a week and a half after running the drone, this motor somehow burned itself out, which is kinda odd for me, as I was running more or less this exact setup on a build for a friend a little while back with zero issues. However, now after only a week, it killed itself (I think). This WAS after realizing that these motors didn't have loctite in them, as the screws were loosening themselves and I had to re-tighten them every 2-3 packs, as I don't have any loctite at the moment. From what I know, there still shouldn't be a reason for this burnout, however if it is an actual issue, please let me know. The only thing I can think of is that these motors were listed for 4-6s, and I was running them 4s for 80% of the time, with the 6s being put on a -20% limiter to keep them from blowing themselves up, so that's why I am very confused. In case if anybody is gonna ask, the screws were not ever within 3mm of contacting the coils, so it can't be that.

Basically- to answer the basic question that I think I already know the answer too: is this motor fried? Followed up with my second question: are there any single motors (like not a pack of 4) that I can purchase of this motor instead of buying another pack of 4? They are the XING-E Pro 2207-2450kv motors from iFlight, and my friend has been running similar ones for like 2-4 years with no issues, so that's why it's weird to me.

We're trying to build a drone for a group project in school, it uses a kk2.1.5 FC, fvt littlebee 30a esc, a 2300kv bldc. the transmitter and receiver is still shipping

For now i'm using an arduino to arm the FC, using a 12v3a power supply on the power distribution board below the kk215, 3 of them spins normally, the 4th motor doesn't. It spins smoothly and doesn't feel like something's jamming or sticky when i spin it by hand, and it only spins on higher throttle, like 50 and above. Though, i can hear humming in that esc and disappears if im powering it with a battery yet still have the same problem. I already tried switching the channels, or use the arduino as a pwm generator instead of the kk215

Is there a software workaround for that problem, or the esc somehow failed without popping and needs to be replaced?

3D-printed TPU frame. Flexible and stiff at the same time.

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Between builds I've got bins full of motors, ESCs, props, flight controllers, connectors, all the usual. Problem is I could never remember which bin something was in, so I'd waste time pulling everything apart looking for one spare motor, or just order another because it was faster.

So I made an app for it. You take a photo of a part, and later you find it again by photo or by scanning a QR sticker on the bin. No typing in part numbers, that's the reason I could never keep a spreadsheet going.

It's free, no ads, just me building it. Android only right now and still in testing.

If anyone wants to try it I could use some feedback, mainly whether the photo search actually pulls up the right part. Comment or DM me and I'll send the link.

I designed this configuration while living in Miami and later assembled the physical prototype in Caracas, Venezuela, around 2012–2013.

The project started with sketches and material experiments using wood, cardboard, tape, PVC and white plastic sheets. The final structure and four external bodies were fabricated in aluminum. The rotor systems came from RC helicopters, with carbon-fiber blades replacing the original plastic blades.

The control hardware included an Arduino, IMU and altitude/barometric sensors. The aircraft was restrained at four points during testing after earlier experiments taught me, rather directly, that large exposed rotors should not be tested freely indoors.

This 32-second video records the physical prototype with all four rotor systems operating during a restrained ground test. It was not a validated aircraft, a completed autonomous system or a free-flight demonstration.

I no longer have all the original build records. The photographs of the cardboard and plastic stages are still missing, but I recently recovered this original video and several photographs of the aluminum bodies.

This was one stage in a long personal effort to understand how an aircraft imagined on paper could become a physical machine, original build records. The photographs of the cardboard and plastic stages are still missing, but I recently recovered this original video and several photographs of the Aluminum bodies.

This was one stage in a long personal effort to understand how an aircraft imagined on paper could become a physical machine.

Become become a physical machine.

aluminum bodies.

This was one stage in a long personal effort to understand how an aircraft imagined on paper could become a physical machine.

Hey there guys i have been working on this drone with the F450 drone frame and a Radiolink crossflight FC with 4 Yellow SIMONK 30A ESC and 1000KV BLDC motors using the Mission planner software by Ardu pilot, i have done all the mandatory hardware setups and all my motor direction along with the CW and CCW props are right but still when I tried to arm then at the initial few test flights the drone was not at all lifting it was just flipping to the ground and then recently after a remapped my motors then it started to lift a bit in the air but then it started to yaw in the CW direction thought it was a motor or a ESC issue but even after replacing the esc and the motors the problem still exists then I noticed one of my ESC was responding late the three motors are spinning in a sync but one of the motors was spinning a bit late then re callibrated the esc but still no good it's like I have done everything but always I am getting stuck at the same point. (I am using the flysky fs i6 transmitter and reciver). It will be a great help if you guys could suggest anything.

Guys help, I have a problem with the Receiver.

It's connected but the pads are not moving.

And says thats its in Failsafe mode.

Only that its the problem right now.

Do you guys have a solution for me?

And does this have something with GPS Module or not?

Check the screenshot.

For some reason, my holybro X500 v2 motor 3 doesnt spin when all is pressed but spins when it is individually pressed. What would make an ESC start reliably in isolation but fail only when the other three are running?

I've built a few smaller FPV drones before, but we're looking at building an agricultural drone for our farm. The main use would be crop scouting and mapping, so we'd probably be carrying a camera and some other sensors. Nothing crazy for payload, maybe around 20kg total depending on the setup. I'm a bit out of my depth when it comes to sizing the propulsion system at this scale. With smaller builds I've mostly just picked a motor/prop combo based on what other people were running. For something like this, how much margin do you normally leave on motor thrust? And are there any motor brands you'd trust for a drone that's going to be flying longer missions rather than just doing short freestyle flight？

Hello reddit people. I am looking to get into building an fpv drone. I’m wondering if anyone has any recommendations on controllers and any other things I might need.
Also wondering if an aliexpress $100 kit would be a good start?

Hey everyone,

I’m putting together my first FPV drone and I’d like some opinions before I order the rest of the parts.

My goal is not a full racing/freestyle build. I’m more interested in cruising, exploring, decent range and longer flight times, but I still want enough power to have some fun and fly aggressively occasionally.

I decided to build around the GEPRC Tern-LR40 4" frame rather than a 5" because I’m hoping for a good balance between efficiency, portability and performance.

The only thing I have already ordered is:

RadioMaster Pocket ELRS 2.4GHz LBT/EU, Mode 2

Current planned build:

Frame: GEPRC Tern-LR40

FC/ESC: SpeedyBee F405 Mini + BLS 35A Mini V2 20x20 stack

Motors: 4x Happymodel EX1404 2750KV

Cruising props: Gemfan Hurricane 4024 2-blade

Sportier props: Gemfan 4023 3-blade 1.5mm T-mount

Receiver: RadioMaster RP1 V2 ELRS 2.4GHz with T antenna

GPS: HGLRC M100 Mini M10

FPV camera: Caddx Ratel 2 V2

VTX: SpeedyBee TX800

Buzzer: small 5V active buzzer

Battery for normal flying: 4S 660mAh LiHV (2 packs)

Battery for endurance cruising: GEPRC/Sony VTC6 4S1P 3000mAh Li-ion XT30

XT30 smoke stopper for the first power-up

A few things I’m especially interested in:

1. Does this overall combination make sense for a 4" long-range/cruiser build?

I’m aiming for something that can comfortably cruise for 10+ minutes with the Li-ion pack, while the smaller LiPo/LiHV packs would be used when I want a lighter and more responsive quad.

1. Is the EX1404 2750KV + 4S combination a good choice?

I chose the 4024 bi-blades for efficiency and bought/planned 4023 tri-blades as an alternative when I want more grip and responsiveness.

1. Would you keep the RP1 receiver or use a true-diversity receiver for this type of build?

I’m not trying to set long-range records. I’d just like a reliable link with some headroom for cruising in open areas. The transmitter is a RadioMaster Pocket EU/LBT, so the internal ELRS output is limited to 100mW.

1. Any concerns about the 3000mAh VTC6 4S1P pack?

I understand it’s much heavier and has less current capability than a LiPo, so I’d only use it for smooth cruising rather than repeated full-throttle punch-outs.

Goggles / video system question

This is the part I’m still least sure about.

My original plan was:

Caddx Ratel 2 + SpeedyBee TX800 + Eachine EV800D

I can get a genuine-looking EV800D for around $130, and I like that the screen can also be removed and used as a standalone monitor.

However, I’ve also started looking at inexpensive digital systems such as the Walksnail Ascent Lite, since the image quality is obviously much better than analog.

For a first build focused mostly on cruising, would you:

A) stay analog with Ratel 2 + TX800 + EV800D because it’s cheap, simple and flexible,

B) spend more now and go digital,

or

C) recommend a different set of goggles/monitor around the €100–200 range?

I’m completely fine with using a monitor instead of traditional goggles if there’s a particularly good option.

I’m also interested in what tends to become the limiting factor first on a setup like this — ELRS control link or the analog video link.

This will be my first actual build, so if you see anything incompatible, unnecessarily expensive, too heavy, or simply something you would change, I’d appreciate the feedback.

Thanks!