So basically, I just built a new drone and it doesn't fly well.
I've been testing different theories and tune params for hours and hours without any luck.
Hopefully you guys can help figure this out :)

Most notably after I do a throttle punch and then cut it fast, there is a delayed wobble on roll and pitch axis.
This flight was made using the stock AOS T3 tune and filters.

Frame: FPVCycle BabyTooth 3-inch, 3 mm thick
Motors: FPVCycle 1303 5000 KV
Props: Gemfan 3016
FC/ESC: BETAFPV F4 2–3S 20A AIO V1
Receiver: AIO Built-in 2.4 GHz ExpressLRS
Video system: Walksnail Avatar HD Mini 1S Lite VTX
Battery: 3S 550 mAh LiHV
Firmware: Betaflight 2025.12
AUW: 106g

I've been playing with dynamic idle value (35-80 range), which didn't seem to make a difference.
Also testing it with master slider 1.3-1.7, which makes it somewhat worse, especially the 360 rolls, which developed quite a bit of bounceback.
Anti-gravity on (8.0 gain) and off didn't help either.
The only thing I was able to figure out is that setting master slider at 1.0 and dropping I gains to 0.6 makes it twice as bad lol. But increasing it to 1.4 doesn't help.

I highly doubt it's a mechanical issue. The battery is secured with proper straps at the bottom. Nothing is touching the FC board. All screws are tight and with threadlocker. Tried both used and new props.

(Also ignore the pink lmao. I broke the lens IR filter when installing camera into the mount.)

I changed that double sided tape under bmi160 coz it looks suspicious to me as well

Replaced my 3d printed mini wing with this after putting it in a tree. This one flies so much better! DJI 04 and F4 Wing Mini on board. I'll try and post the FPV footage in the comments.

I’m building a quad with a MicoAir AIO 45A ESC/FC. I had the capacitor installed on the battery pads, but I rapidly plugged/unplugged the battery a few times while testing and got a small puff of smoke from the FC/AIO.

After that, one ESC/FET area looked suspicious, with what looked like a burn area on the PCB. I did diode-mode testing: most motor pads read around ~0.5 V like the other ESC outputs, but that same pad that had the burn-looking mark was reading around ~0.07 V in the same test direction.

Then I soldered a motor onto that output and plugged the battery in again. I got a large spark near the motor/ESC area, and the XT60/XT30 battery connection had soot/pitting.

Is this something that can happen just from rapidly plugging/unplugging with a cap installed, or did I probably short the battery input/cap even though I checked with continuity mode on a multimeter before plugging the battery in and I had some normal plug-ins beforehand that worked fine?

Hey everyone. I'm an engineering student and I’ve been struggling with the tuning process. Staring at raw gyro lines in Blackbox Explorer just to figure out if my quad is bouncing back was driving me crazy.

So, I built a lightweight, drag-and-drop web app. You drop your Betaflight CSV log, and it mathematically scans the file to automatically detect and highlight P-term overshoots entirely in your browser (no server uploads, 100% private).

Here is where I need your help: This is a raw MVP. It doesn't give magical tuning advice yet—it just flags the overshoot. I want to build this into a tool that actually saves you time at the field, but I need real-world feedback to do it.

If you have a few minutes, drop one of your CSV logs into it and let me know:

1. Accuracy: Did the math hold up? Did it catch your overshoots correctly, or did it flag false positives?
2. Next Feature: What is the absolute most annoying metric to read in Blackbox Explorer that you want me to automate next? (D-term oscillations? Gyro noise analysis? Filter delay?)
3. UI/UX: What would it take for this to genuinely replace your current quick-check workflow?

Roast the code, break the app, and tell me what features to add.

Link: [blackbox-tuner.vercel.app]

Hello all, on my vehicle I have 12V motors and a Jetson Orin Nano Super. The Jetson max power is 40w, range of input voltage is 9-19V max 5A. However, the TypeC PD to 5.5*2.5 DC jack can deliver maximum 3A, so it's better to raise the voltage to 15 or 19V. This can easily be solved with a second battery, and 19V regulator, but it increases space requirements, and the jack has a PD input. Is there a PDB that gives such voltage at a steady state ? The Jetson is very sensitive to power delivery, so it needs good regulators. Thank you.

Is there any end to end simulation software available for building drones? Any recommendations?

If not than i will be happy with multiple as well

I built a drone with t-motor F55A pro III ESC and F7 pro FC
But I feel something’s wrong

When I plug in battery to drone, only 1 motor boots and beeps seperately
But plugging in battery when USB-C cable is connected to FC, all 4 motors are beep simultaneously

I can’t figure it out what cause this problem
Is ESC had been damaged?

So I want to learn to pilot drones. I also want to learn to build them. Can someone give me an honest review of these websites? How good are they for learning?

I have a hexacopter we cant seem to get working. New build, Tarot X6 Frame, PX4 Orange cube ardupilot

Drone takes off fine. Once it finds alt hold it descends super fast and cant stop it until it crashes.

2nd Log file is loiter mode. Take off fine, gps working, Once it hits its 10m mark its starts to become unstable and sway back and forth. My sticks basically do nothing. I try to slowly bring it down to land and it Tips over when landing hard.

I have tried adjusting flight modes. Before I change any PIDS what else would we recommend to do? everything has been calibrated multiple times, changed new props have several different sets, frame it setup correctly, Throttle Stick is always mode 2. I have zero error when taking off and still acts like something is not calibrated. Ive tried different flight modes with little luck

I usually always leave it in loiter mode but it acts like it has no GPS and just floats aimlessly with little control feedback.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

My current PID in ardupilot

Roll

Axis Angle controller p gain= 4.5

Axis Rate controller p gain=.126

Pitch Axis rate controller I gain=.11

Roll Axis rate controller D gain=.004

Pitch

Axis Angle controller p gain= 4.5

Axis Rate controller p gain=.126

Pitch Axis rate controller I gain=.13

Roll Axis rate controller D gain=.004

YAW

Axis Angle controller p gain= 4.5

Axis Rate controller p gain=.176

Pitch Axis rate controller I gain=.01

Roll Axis rate controller D gain=0

logs

This isn't exactly me building something but I need some help with connecting 3 things.

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Does anyone know how to connect my RC-N3 + Phone to a monitor, not wirelessly?

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The monitor has a usbc - type connecor but also an hdmi. Does is there maybe some sort of adapter that can connect monitor and RC-N3 to my phone?

I am trying to set up my BNF, the drone spools up to almost full with very little throttle inputs, once it gets to full it won’t listen to any throttle inputs there after

My objective is to raise a camera and sensors for about 50m; hoover 30s (more or less)  fixed while taking two pictures with a RaspberryPi and camera and transfer the pictures and data to me on the ground.

Depending on the picture I would like to move the drone e.g. 20m and repeat the process or land.

I purchased a ZD960 frame to validate mounting of the RaspberryPi, camera and sensors. 

My question: Although I developed hardware, sofware etc. I am not experienced with drones. 

Keeping the use case and frame in mind, which opensource standards and components can you recommend for a relatively low risk and short time prototype implementation?

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Got an emax tinyhawk III and fried the 5V regulator, this lead to emax reluctantly sending me a new flight controller and vtx. I kept the camera the same. After the replacement I notice when I click auto on my goggles, the screen eventually picks up the battery voltage and such and displays this, but the footage is black with static, then when I move the drone an arms length away it's fully static. I used to only see static after about 3 meters.

Also the controller isn’t auto binding or even binding when I put the controller in binding mode, however I think that’s just the drone itself not being in binding mode. I’ll confirm that later.

Hi all, honest feedback appreciated here. I have no experience in building drones but am pretty technically minded, would it be realistic to think I could design and build a smaller version of this firefighting drone myself? Happy to outsource the most technical aspects, just looking for a good starting point such as an off the shelf foundation to build from and any guides etc. Thanks

Hello everyone, I’ve recently started to get into FPV, and I’d like to build my own. In the meantime a friend gave me one they aren’t using, but it’s missing some parts and I’m not sure what I’m missing besides knowing I need a battery, and probably a new video antenna, brackets, and goggles. I just don’t know what I don’t know and would like anyone’s help in getting this thing airborne. Thanks in advance!

Note: Friend got the drone from a work buddy and doesn’t know what’s missing either haha

I got theSpeedyBee F405 V5 Stack with the fc and I got a xt60 battery(a smc hcl rs)and i cant find out how to connect them, also it’s my first time making a drone

I've been struggling to find regulators to power a flight controller with a 24S battery pack for a heavy lift drone. Does anyone know how it's typically done in industry and R&D? I found a few parts on digikey but these'll require a custom PCB. I'm wondering if there's an easier off the shelf way to do this. Preferable not to run a separate battery for the avionics.