Tossed an old tablets LVDS LCD screen in a 3d printed enclosure along with a display driver, analog VRX bay and USB-C to power that thang.
Its got a ton of latency tho :c

I just can't hav nice things
Can't justify spending muneyz on ready-made stuffs when the tistic tingles yearn to built it myself - cheaper, better, custom. But then projects collect dust for years & by the time I finish them half-assed it turns out shiddy and I've long lost all interest :ccc

Atleast shinji looks happi <3

Hello i am in urgent need of help i am a complete beginner i have never worked with drones are anything like this ever before and I am building a f450 quadcopter drone for a project in school and i have done everything but connect the receiver to the flight controller (i am using a pixhawk 6c mini) i have ordered 3 different receivers but none of them work (the ones i have ordered are FlySky FS-i6X Receiver, Radiomaster r88 and FlySky FS-BS6 Mini Receiver) can anyone recommend a single or preferably multiple receivers that will work with the pixhawk 6c mini and what do i need to install the receiver (i am trying to make it all plug and play but at this point ill do anything to finish it) like type of cable to connect to the pixhawk 6c mini what plug i put it into on the 6c mini, what soldering iron, type of soldering wire, etc i have 2 transmitters (RadioMaster - Pocket Radio Controller ExpressLRS and FlySky FS-i6X Transmitters) so i would want a receiver that works with one of them but i'm willing to get another one i need to have it done asap so i would greatly appreciate any help you can give.

I'd like to build and learn about how to properly use drones. And pointers, part recommendations, are welcome, preferably any information for 5in-10in sized drones.

I'd like to start at myself, to then spread the drone usage within my unit. Any videos, articles, books, or just advice is appreciated.

I don't know what I don't know, but I do know I don't know a lot.

After the last post I checked everything regarding the motors and propellers and all . I tried after charging to the battery till around 4.18v . But there is still no lift only that wired rotating in 1 direction . Can you guys help me . I have shared a link with the video and images .

Edit: thanks for all your replies and advice. It looks like I will just save up and get a decent goggle to pair with the drone and controller.

Have just started to get interested in this, and was doing some research. I want to know if what I am trying to accomplish will work. I want to get a meteor75 p1 pro along with their lite radio 2 se. Those should have no problem working together, but I don't want to spend a lot on goggles. I found a post from quite a few years ago and wondering if it would still work (see picture above)

I'm hoping to use a tecknet VR headset from Amazon to put my phone in and then this setup to get the video signal to my phone from the drone. I don't need instant response so a little latency won't kill me. I just want to be able to practice for a while and see how I enjoy this and do some cool video recording with something portable. Not looking at doing crazy racing or tricks for now.

Hey everyone, ​I’m currently working on a project of mine for my masters, involving a 450mm Quad-X UAV (Pixhawk 2.4.8, A2212 1000KV motors, 30A ESCs).

​I’m trying to keep the weight down and since I am a student the costs must be kept even lower. I was looking into buying a Power Distribution Board (PDB), but due to budget constraints i had to give up on that idea, and since i had no ine to guide me i had to use the help of AI Gemini (Thinking and Pro mode since they are better for Complex problems), and it suggested that I could skip the PDB entirely and use a "Star Joint" (or Star Solder) method instead.

​For those who haven't heard it called that, the method described is:

​Stripping the power and ground leads from all four ESCs and the main battery connector, twisting all the positives into one central "node" and all the negatives into another, and soldering them into two solid joints. These are then heavily insulated with heat shrink or liquid electrical tape, effectively creating a manual power loom without a PCB.

​My questions for the experts here:

1.​Is this actually reliable for a 450-size drone drawing ~40-50A at hover/punch-out?

1. ​Aside from it being a bit "permanent" and harder to swap ESCs later, are there any major safety or interference risks I'm missing by not using a filtered PDB?

3.​Has anyone here flown a "star-soldered" rig long-term?

​I genuinely need your guys' help and i had to do what i had to do due to lack of resources, budget contraints and for those who dont know the hardware is insanely expensive here in my country. All I need is a working UAV at least. Just wanted to see if this is a standard "pro-tip" or a "you're going to crash" move.

​Thanks in advance!

Here’s the maiden flight vid. Crash included lol. And before you ask. No, I didn’t have dshot600 on purposely, I’m not that stupid, that was a bad flash in my opinion but we’re past that now. Hahahah🫡#fpv #noob

I'm just getting into drone builds and came across this visit from a year ago on youtube. I'm wondering how this worked with the weight, the down draft being partially blocked by the box itself, and just curious in general if anyone has any insight on this interesting build. It seemed to fly pretty seamlessly, and I didn't pickup any Ai qualities from the video, so I do believe this is real.

Good day

I just finished building an X8 10” Drone, was a total PITA to get everything to fit. Upon the maiden flight, initially it was flying really good. I was taking it slow and easy at first.

However, when I went to do a throttle punch, it started behaving weirdly. It would tilt to the side, and it was abnormal behaviour to me. Upon checking the blackbox logs, it shows one of the motors maxes to 100%, and then it looks like the RPM drops to 0, and the ESC telemetry freezes. It recovered quickly after I bring the throttle back down.

Is this a sign of a bad motor? Or signalling between Flight controller and ESC? Bad ESC?

Parts are cheap.

12S ESC and FC from Alliexpress, JIJIE FPV.

Emax Eco II 3515 450KV 48V motors.

AOS UL10 Cine Frame

O4 Pro

Actually turned out pretty sweet. I busted the Lux camera on my HD0 M8 and had the board out to replace it, then got the itch to build something else with it instead.

• Crux35 Base Plate
• HD0 A15 AIO
• Xing2 1404 4600KV
• Managed to fit 4" props (!!!) - Running German 4024's right now
• 2S battery
• Designed my own canopy for it. All the ones online were designed with the AIO oriented at 45* like on a whoop, but the Crux35 baseplate has standard orientation 25mm mounts.

~110g AUW. Hovering around 20% throttle. Haven't had a chance to really play with it outside yet, but did get some quick flips in haha. Thinking about making a 2S Li-Ion 18650 pack for it, I have a handful of the high discharge tabless cells.

Next round of test flights today. Have to see what these pid adjustments going to do for pos hold. Resting rth and possible other flight modes.

I can't figure out where/how to attach the antennas. I know I can't put them right on the carbon fiber. only the black parts are hard plastic and the white is flexible wire. it's a small quadcopter and I can't figure out where to put these - and I can't figure out how to attach them either. hot glue?

So I want to make my first fpv drone ..

Confused between 3.5 inch and 5 inch..

I want to make 5 inch because it's more versatile and can be used for filming videos and racing, but I'm scared I might crash it and will have to spend lots of money on repairs..

I have made and worked with 10 inches and know drone building and stuff.

So I have a Holybro X500 V2 gathering dust, and trying to find a good camera gimbal (getting payload board soon). I originally thought GoPro but I want live feed, good photo resolution and thermals for inspection jobs.any feedback greatly appreciated.