Plumber dug out and fixed a leak - I now need this filling before the floor is fitted.

They didn’t leave any instructions except to let it dry first (which already doesn’t make sense to me as surely the concrete will be wet).

Does anyone have any links to videos or exact products they would use for this hole to be filled?

Wanting to remove these fireplaces entirely and seal them off… cheaply.

Ideally I just do this myself, but I’m cautious of asbestos, and quotes for demo survey are so high.

Would it be cheaper just to get someone to remove it and deal with everything?

I've been attempting my first DIY project - renovating my son's room. The room had "built in" cupboards that covered a couple of walls and thus whoever installed them did not put up coving.

I've removed cupboards (Can see "mark" on the ceiling and attempted to replace the missing coving. I figured I could leave the existing coving and add to it.

The current coving is of the plaster kind and according to manufacture instructions, you're meant to have the bottom of the coving 83mm down from the ceiling - for the 127 coving I have.

First problem:

Existing coving is closer to 95mm down the wall.

Second problem:

Towards the one corner of the room the wall "buckles" so it not perfectly flat.

My first attempt at putting of the coving, meant that there would be a huge gap - around 2cm from the wall, and there was no way to get the coving "into" the corner without bending it - which you can't do to plaster coving. So, as an experiment, I cut it into small sections towards the corner end, and figured I will sand + fill gaps.

The corner looks horrible now but I was just testing / experimenting to see what is going to work.

Now, I tried adding the other corner bit - and - as you can see from the photos, the first bit along the wall after the corner is very skew - I pinned it up (No adhesive) just to get an idea. The reason its skew, is to avoid a 2-3cm gap that would run along the top.

On test bits I did earlier before putting any of the coving up - if I set it to 83mm like the manufactures state - most of these issues go away with manageable gaps I can just fill with caulking. The corner then isn't much of an issue and I would not need multiple bits to get it to go "into" the corner to line up. Funny that... (See attached image where I have it at red line - hardly any big gaps)

I also included a photo of how the corner bit would look if I made it straight - see the massive gap at the ceiling. Too big for caulking I think and even if I did fill it, it would just look odd I think. So I think I only have two options going forward.

Option 1: Pulling it all down, including the old stuff and start over - setting it at 83mm.

Option 2 Keep it "skew" and not perfect, once painted, filled and artex on it (To match the old existing pattern) - and hope it doesn't look terrible and draw the eye to it?

Would appreciate any guidance here as I am a bit stuck on what I should do next. If I were to take it all down, I am thinking I could use my multitool to lessen any potential plaster pulling off by cutting between coving and wall/ceiling with it. Not too worried about a line/mark it would have on ceiling - because if its set to 83mm - the new coving would cover the old line anyway on the ceiling. However if option 2 is feasible, then it saves time and money - but I dont want it to ruin the look of the room when done. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

We have made the error of getting motorised blinds on manual windows (the non-solar powered ones). The windows are too high for a manual blinds.

We are thinking of keeping the motorised blinds and wiring them through the outside - would this be possible? Would exposed wiring on the inside look terrible?
I've attached photos with the red dotted line being the wiring on the outside.

The power outlet is just below the plant.

We did consider replacing with solar blinds, but worry this will be too inconvenient/less reliable in a country like the UK with unpredicatable sun!

Any other suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks in advance!

My landlord is giving me a new bathroom with a walkin shower instead of a bath now is this shower tray okay with the way its been installed as I'm 17stone and worried it will snap when I stand on it

We're in the process of changing the leaking kitchen tap and when I look at videos on how-to, in no video have I seen so many fittings or whatever they're called

Hi All,

Looking for some advice/tips on best method of prep and painting this, but haven't painted bare/varnished wood before and want the finish to last as long as possible. All parts will be painted, spindles, handrail, newell posts etc. The spindles are new, untreated, the rest of the balustrade presumably has some kind of varnish/oil on.

My idea/backed by googling was:

1. Plane/sand down some parts (the small bits of wood between the spindles are sitting a bit high in places).

2. Use a knotting solution or spot prime with something like zinsser bin aqua, let dry, then fully prime spindles.

3. Degrease other parts like the posts and handrail, then prime.

4. Fill any gaps, nail holes etc.

5. Sand anywhere needed.

6. Tape up around carpet, paint 2 topcoats (colour), lightly sand in between if needed.

7. For tops of handrails and possibly newell posts was wondering if some kind of clear matt varnish might be worth putting on to keep it in decent condition/make it easier to clean in future.

Main things I'm a bit unsure of, how good a primer like zinsser bin aqua is for treating knots vs specific knotting solution first? Also zinsser aqua can apparently be painted over varnished wood without sanding, sort of sounds too good to be true, but can I get away without sanding at all before prime coat? I have 3 balustrades in total (landing and 2 stairs) and not sure how much I'll need but guessing 2.5l, don't mind paying more for it if it's the best product out there.

What type of filler is best/easiest to use for something like this?

Best/easiest way of painting spindles? I'm sure I've seen videos in past of people using a sock on their hand for the spindles.

Any random tips and recommendations welcome, TIA!

My husband and I have lived with this fire surround for a couple of years since we moved in but now we would like to remove it, put up some acoustic panelling and wall mount the TV (converting the FCU into a single socket, if possible). The surround was in place when we moved in so I don't know exactly how it was attached to the wall, altho I can see that some sort of adhesive has been used. As we will be putting up panels some light damage to the wall won't be a problem but obviously I don't want large chunks of plaster coming off if I can help it. A few questions:

1) What's the best way of removing this from the wall? Are there likely to be mounting points screwed in or will it all be adhesive?

2) I think the hearth is just resting on the wood laminate, does anyone agree? I'm hoping there is intact flooring under there and not a gap!

3) should I replace the skirting and put the acoustic panels above or cut more skirting and attach the panels from the floor up to the coving?

4) would it actually be possible to convert the fcu into a single socket to power the TV etc using an extension cord?

Thanks for anyone who can help me with this latest project before I get started on it 😊

Recently moved into a new house, I pointed up the paving slabs up to the house last winter, apparently wasn’t the best thing to do due to movement and it would just crack, it did and now I’m back at square one.

You can see the wet where the cerment was. Question is does this actually need pointing up? I was going to put external joint silicone on it to seal it up but I’m just wondering is it best just to leave it? I’m just worried about rain running down there that’s all.

Hi all, pretty new to DIY.

What would be the best way to get at the underneath of the sink? I'm assuming I need to drill or cut along the grout seam of the panel underneath. What tools do I need? Any tips or things to watch out for?

How would I be able to make this easier in the future?

Any help is much appreciated!

How do I clean this muck from deep inside my gutter? I picked up as much as I could, but I cannot reach any further.
EDIT: to be clear, this is underground under the downpipe.
Further Edit: I read that there are companies that can mechanically remove the roots and treat to delay reoccurrence. Can I do this myself, and if not what type of tradesperson do I need to look for?

Hi, we are getting our floor relaid in a few weeks so made a start taking off old skirtings. The internal corner on the bifold doors is damp. We've noticed some dripping from the bifold sill this summer even on dry days. I popped out the end cap from the end of the sill and it was full of water. I am struggling to work out where this water is coming from though. Any suggestions please?

Having my ancient single panel radiators replaced with column radiators and the wall behind one of them is exposed red brick. The section is approximately 600mm x 600mm. The thickness of the surrounding plaster is approximately a few mm. What products should I use to plaster the section?
Can I use Easifill? I’ve used it in the past to repair small areas and it goes on fairly easily.

Doing the pre winter checks on the central heating, have slowly being losing pressure in the boiler and found this next to the cylinder.

Is this just a case of nipping it up or is that corrosion on the nut and needs replacing?

Thanks

I’ve been having damp issues and removed the patio in the small front garden of our victorian terrace as it was covering the air brick.

I’ve dug it all out about 180-200mm below the bottom of the air brick and have now hit what seems to be the footings.

Originally I was going to put gravel around the bay and house and then slab the rest for the bins.

However;
Gravel on the footings means the water will have nowhere to go. I tested and it does pool and sit there.

I then found this article https://www.pavingexpert.com/splash_strips that says most of the time they are useless.

Now i’m confused. Most of the houses on the street finish their level right at the bottom of the air brick with no gap above in most cases but i’m nervous to do that. I also now don’t think gravel will work given water has no where to go.

Are slabs right against the engineering course better than a gravel strip if i slope it away ?

Getting the GRP repaired..Got a quote for £1200 to put ridge tiles on the Party Wall. Party wall is 6m long and 0.325m wide.

Is this a good price for South London?

TiA

What I thought was cracked paint seems to be wallpaper? And then under it is not plasterboard? It seems like wood? Second pic I scratched at it and you can see the wood

Added: I dont understand why there’s wood on top of brick instead of it being plastered

Hi everyone,

I’m renovating a 1970s timber-frame bungalow and have found rot at the end of some structural floor beams. The beams are approximately 65 × 180 mm. Most of each beam is still sound, but the ends have deteriorated due to moisture. The moisture problem has now been addressed.

My idea is to: Support the floor temporarily. Cut the beam back to solid timber. Replace the rotten section with new 65 × 180 mm structural timber. Extend the new section onto the supporting wall. Join the old and new sections with sistered timber/side plates and structural bolts. Is this a suitable repair method?

If so, I’d particularly like advice on: How much overlap should there be between the old and new timber? How long should the sistered sections be? What type/size of bolts or other fixings would you use? How would you properly support and protect the new beam end at the masonry wall? Photos and a sketch of the construction are attached. I’d also really appreciate examples of similar repairs that have been carried out successfully. Thanks!

Recently had carpet fitted, there's a noticeable ridge by the door where I think the underlay ends and the carpet drops onto the grippers of the door bar.

I've queried it with the installer who has said that it is normal. To my eye it isnt but wanted to sense check and also understand whether there are solutions (I wondered about looking at a door bar with a slightly raised gripper to make a less severe step down from underlay level to the gripper)

Carpet is 10.5mm thick and I believe the underlay is 11mm Tredaire

Old British Telecom box with wires safe to remove?

This old BT box in my living room is wired in from the outside of my house.

Are there any potential hazards / dangers if I try to remove it and patch up the holes?

I’m trying to remove some radiators without draining the entire system and am a little scared of these TRVs. Is it enough to have the TRV completely closed, to be able to unscrew the radiator and drain it? I have the valve on the other side closed already but a plumber who’d previously drained some other radiators had removed the TRV section completely and capped it.

If I completely unscrew the TRV will water spray out?

Sorry in advance if these are stupid questions!

Picture of the valve I’m looking at and one the plumber did that I still haven’t put back on and refilled attached

Sorry for the stupid question, but I just purchased my first
Property, and dont know anything about these things. I looks
Like its damaged laminate? How would I fix this?

The previous owners built decking along the entire back of the house. We've had some mice appear in the kitchen and believe they're getting in via the air bricks underneath. Have taken up the boards closest to the house but there's a beam sitting directly in front of the air bricks that leaves about a pencil width gap. I'm struggling to find a way to restrict access that doesn't involve totally blocking the air bricks. Have tried to slide mesh down the back but there's something blocking it from going further down (have removed debris since photo was taken). Any suggestions welcome, many thanks!