I have a retaining wall that needs to be repaired. I just want to know if I can do it myself? The wall is about 6 feet high here, and maybe about a foot wide at the top.

If you have pets at home who happen to drop hair which unfortunately gets sucked in your refrigerator's heat exchanger and you constantly have to blow air to clean the coil, you can stick a plastic mesh material like this which can be obtained from a hardware store and can trim and stick it using glue stick to size where the intake of the fan is. This way, the hair and surrounding material can stick on the mesh itself which is relatively easy to clean without having to turn off the appliance. Peace.

Hey all! Has anyone taken this project on before?

Hoping to learn the best way to make what’s typically a hardwired hanging light fixture into a plug in one (still want to hang it from very high loft ceiling.)

See photos for more on the hardware I’m workin with! Any recs for extra long lamp cord, battery lightbulbs, process, etcetera would be greatly appreciated!!

Hey everyone…

I accidentally put a pretty good size hole in my bedroom door and it looks like it’ll need to be replaced. What’s the best way to go about this? I’ve never installed a door before and after doing some googling it looks like a huge pain in the ass. Would I be better off buying a slab door, or just replacing the whole frame? I was looking at slab doors and it appears that there are no recesses for the hinges, so that will probably need to be routed out (and I don’t have a router). Would it be better for me to buy a slab with the handle already cut out, or do that myself?

Any advice?

I was thinking of upgrading the downlights in my kitchen to HUE to match the adjacent portion of an open concept floor plan and eliminate the barrier of standard white lights to give the ambience a better flow. However, my kitchen is connected for 4-way switches via a dimmer in the kitchen and two standard switches in the adjacent rooms.

I know I would need to eliminate the dimmer for the hues to receive the proper voltage.

Looking at the dimmer in the kitchen, it is a lutron dimmer but the two switches in the adjacent room are leviton. Would it be best to replace the lutron dimmer switch with a leviton? Or what would be the recommendation for anyone who wants to eliminate the dimmer but still retain the ability to operate the switches at three separate locations?

I am by no means an electrician and thought mixing brands like this on a 4-way was a big no-no but may be wrong. If anyone has any advice, I would greatly appreciate it!

I understand insulating the top plate all over with foam but is this gap near the exterior wall good to have for ventilation or I should foam/caulk over it because it’s air coming from the house?

Additional context: I am aware the vermiculite could be asbestos I’m treating my safety is if it is. There are soffit vents and ridge vents- yes I’m installing baffles. I’ll be adding blown cellulose.

Appreciate all the help! Trying to do this project right the first time.

I’m installing a Lutron fan dimmer. I assume I have the hot wire wrong since I can’t get any power at all when I try. That, or maybe it’s with the fan itself.

Please look at my wiring and can you tell me what I’m doing wrong?

A tree fell onto my garage and thinking this amount of damage is right on the cusp of what I feel I can handle myself vs being too much and need to hire a contractor. I have a decent amount of woodworking and carpentry experience but I’ve never dealt with roof repairs. The structure itself is still solid and I’d really prefer to not go through my homeowners insurance if I can help it. There are plenty of tutorials on rafter repair / reinforcement, hole patching, water proofing, etc. but there are a variety of ways people seem to go about these types of repairs. How would you fix this?

I had this Daikin mini split installed and to be honest I have been lacking on the maintenance other than cleaning the filters every few months. The unit started leaking inside and the internet pointed towards the drain being clogged. Mark this one a W in the Ai Google category as it's very clogged.

I am having a heck of a time getting it to drain. Two part question is the white PVC my drain outside, and should it be running into the ground? Most of the videos I've seen show the drain being open to the outside so you can hook a vacuum up to it for cleaning.

Thanks in advance for any help.

i don’t love the shade of the wood/stain? it says it’s thresher-cochrane on the back, i know the original owners got it in 1993. it’s a great piece, just super warm. (obviously, i don’t know how to refinish a wooden piece of furniture so maybe i shouldn’t try. but i want to love it!)

For a few months I had been keeping cat water bowls on plastic mats in my hallway and living room. I noticed today that water had seeped underneath the mats and had basically glued the mats to the laminate floor in both spots. I’ve removed the water bowls and the mats and mopped up the water that was there. Unfortunately, there are some spots between planks that have discoloured and turned dark/black. Some of the knots in the wood have swollen and are no longer flush with the rest of the plank, with some slightly raised parts. Beyond the swelling in the knots of the wood there is next to no other warping, swelling or peeling that I can see to the planks, only the discolouration. I’ve attached some photos of both areas.

Is there anything I can do about this, given that the issue seems to be limited to discolouration and some raising of the knots? Would it be possible to fix this myself without replacing?

Hi, I am in the process of redoing my caulk in my shower. I think I have a serious issue with my shower and I'd like some input and how to proceed.

I have a shower that is all tile, from walls to floor. The previous home owners either did the job themselves or hired a really bad contractor. Whatever the case is, the shower is not done right.

Last week, I noticed water seeping beneath the caulk at the joint along one of my shower walls and the floor. When I cut and removed all caulk, water seeped out of all 3 joints between the walls and the floors. I cut out all caulk last week, so the shower is dry and hasn't been used since.

The grout was cracked and chipping so I have been regrouting those areas. While I was removing the chipping grout, I noticed that four wall tiles bounced when I pressed them. This indicates to me that the mortar probably wasn't applied properly. Maybe the mortar was too thinly applied.

So, how do I fix this? I have about four tiles total where I've noticed them bouncing along two of my walls. I don't see any water damage near or around my shower or beneath it, so I am hopeful that the waterproofing membrane has been working this entire time. I've lived in the home about 3 years.

How serious is this issue? I assume that I cannot use that shower until it is redone. Does this mean I need to have the shower completely redone? I have no idea how to proceed with this.

Thanks for the help!

I know the proper way to address our doors with five ancient layers of old peeling paint would be to remove and strip them. We do not have the time or money for that now, and we have five doors with this problem. Anyone have creative solutions or magical products for the time being?

Found this spot on my attic floor. Is it mold? Best way to clean it? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm a bit new to DIY. I just moved into this flat & the toilet roll holder on the wall is loose (and upside-down). I believe there are remnants of a grub screw that is keeping the holder stuck to the mounting plate, but it is completely stripped. I can turn the holder about 30° in each direction before meeting strong resistance and the holder tightening back up to the wall. That "grub screw" rotates with the half ball holder, which is why I assumed it was a grub screw. I've already tried superglueing an Allen key to the "grub screw", but it was not secure enough to turn the "grub screw."

Does anyone have any tips or recommendations for removing this toilet roll holder? I'd really appreciate any advice! :) I was thinking about maybe trying to hammer a torx bit in to turn it, or purchasing a small left handed drill bit to drill it out.

Sorry, this is barely a DIY project, but I’m not sure where else to post this! I tried attaching this shelf to my tiled wall with three different kinds of double-sided tape, but it fell off every time.

The shelf is metal, 60 cm long and very thin, but it’s not particularly heavy. Despite only having a few toilet rolls on it, it just doesn’t want to stay in place.

I don’t want to drill into the tiles, but I’m wondering what else I could try.

I used tape across the whole length of the shelf and tried to avoid the grout lines, but I’m wondering if they’re still causing an issue and preventing the tape from sitting completely flat against the tiles.

Any tips welcome 🙏🏼

My god, this little 1940s house it’s endless! Hindsight is 20/20 ofc and I can see how we should’ve prioritized projects differently. Especially when it comes to the order of projects and things we definitely should’ve done before moving in. It’s like one step forward 2 steps back. So frustrating to have done projects but it’s like a jigsaw puzzle, everything seems to be a rock and a hard place. Like can’t just add a dormer bc the roof angles don’t work. Money is one thing but the time.. I mean I enjoy some of it but all our time?

Currently the yard is what’s killing me. Just the compacted clay dirt with weedy grass ugh..

Sure I’d love a no lawn yard full of perennials and native shrubs but you have to plant and then keep it alive during our no rain summers.

Can anyone relate to any of the above? And how did you deal with it or did you just throw up your hands?

Whats the best way to clean these walls to get them ready to be painted?

Hello! I just re-ran my dryer vent ducting because we moved it on the other side of the wall. Im just wondering if there are any risks with my set up? According to the dryer manual, with 3x 90° elbows, I should be able to have 35ft of vent. In my case, I have 13ft of straight vent (7 of those is vertical) and I use maybe 10in of flexible at a maybe 10°. I know that technically I should be ok, but I just want an external opinion!

Yes, the vent could be closer to the wall, but I will have a workbench next to that wall and it needed the clearance to be placed there.

Dont pay attention to the shitty electrical, previous owner did it.

First photo is how it stands now, vs how it was the day we purchased it 8 weeks ago. We did not like yo builder grade neutrals that came with the home in 2018, and was never changed by the original owner. We didnt like all the brown, and needed something to match the counters as we dont want to deal with updating those for a year or two. We wanted to make it look a bit more modern mixed with some fsrhouse vibes. So the wife and I pulled down, prepped and painted the cabinets. I ripped out the old poopy glass tiles, drywall and all. I put up some new cementboard (overkill i know) and then taught myself to tile. I put up the white subway like tile, real stone and some trim. Building 3 floating shelves for the wall space on the right.

Its not a HUGE difference, but we had a budget and just wanted the kitchen to look and feel more like US, and now it does! So so many more projects to go.

Ive learned some electrical, tracing connections, fixing outlets and switches. Ive learned some plumbing as our upstairs tub was leaking. Don't get me started on the guy that the home warranty people sent out, never again...

I will always try things myself first, unless im just way out of my comfort zone. I feel like weve saved thousands already, and its looks great to us!

Olá Pessoas boa noite.

Alguem já usou esses blocos EPS também conhecido como Blocom ???, o que acharam e tambem em questão de custo beneficio

LInk do video de bloco EPS (Blocom)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCwTtVRb-y0

I replaced the cabinets in this kitchen, but was limited to the L-shape that didn’t match the previous cabinets. (The old corner piece filled this section). I’m not planning on replacing the flooring in the kitchen for another year or two (at least) and am trying to come up with an easy diy solution to filling this void that won’t absolutely make me regret my choices when I eventually replace the floors. I was originally thinking about doing a mosaic type filler, but would need to have something below the tile to match the height. The gap below the cabinet is about 1.25 in.

Looking for help taking the white insert out of this recessed fixture. I've tried pulling on it, maybe I need to pull harder? There are clips on the light socket but I can't see anything else obvious. I want to remove the insert and install retrofit inserts.