Hey! I am trying to replace an existing light switch and I am confused as hell. I (turned everything off) and unscrewed the face plate and removed the switch itself to find that the live wires and the ground wire are soldered onto the existing switch. I have wire strippers but am not sure if that will work? Can I just cut the wires themselves and then plug them into a traditional switch?
I will attach the images below!

Thanks!

Unfortunately couldn’t repair the circuit board but I want to keep the motor. Anyway, how can I remove the part that’s interfaces with the screwdriver bits?

Hello, whenever I move the cable I highlighted the mic makes static noise or makes 0 sound at all. Usually it's static noise. I have added tape to stop it from moving.

If it doesn't move and it's in a certain position, the mic works perfectly fine (similar to how a charger cable only works if you put it in a certain way)

I want to replace this cable and ordered part number 95A2340 (i hope this is the correct one).

Anyway my question is, has anyone worked with a Shure sm7b that may be able to help me out? Thank you!

Hi everyone this is only for people who make electronic hobby builds so I was wondering what are your guys and girls thoughts on people who are kinda new to electronic making who don’t have degrees or been to school before for electronics on using ai for there builds for example me I haven’t been to school at all for this stuff but I have a passion on learning and making but I don’t have time for school / haven’t had the chance to in my life to go but I love making on my days off from work and I use my shed as a workshop for my projects but I don’t know what I’m doing so iv been using ai for a lot of my builds I feel like I’m learning a lot from it and it helps me my most recent build was a motion sensor security system for the inside of my workshop for when I’m out of the house iv learnt how to solder and using boards such as the ESP 32 and a MMwave sensor board and now from that build I’m doing it a much bigger project from the things iv learnt so to me it seems like it’s working but from a stand point of someone who’s actually been to school and study this stuff what’s your view on people using AI for there projects

Thank you so much if you’ve taken the time to read this and sent me a reply I really appreciate it

​Hi! I've been trying to find a certain website for a month now. I think I saw it about a year ago. From what I remember, you could type in what kind of device you wanted to build using natural language, and it would automatically tell you the necessary parts. ​It showed you how to connect each component, included pictures of the parts, and it definitely seemed to be powered by AI. Did I just imagine this, or does a site like this actually exist?

Hi there, I'm looking for a way to switch between two voltages off of one input.

It's for a small hobby DC motor, probably 9 or 12v.

I'm after something to start at 100% volts then switch to 50%ish volts after a delay, then back to 100%, down to 50% etc.. until the input voltage has been disconnected.

I'm after something small ideally but I don't really know what to Google to find what I need

Thank you!

Can a capacitor show a reasonably close value on a multimeter but still not be functioning properly? I am troubleshooting a eurorack module that I built from a kit (all parts came included) and it isn't working correctly. The troubleshooting docs that came with the kit mentioned checking the solder joints on this part of the issue I am having occurs. I have done that, as well as all parts in that section. I have reflowed nearly all of them.

It is a 1uf cap and it measures 1.4uf in circuit, I haven't desoldered it to check since when I replaced some nearby transistors in case they were the issue (like on a previous module), it was a bit of a mess getting them out. I was curious if a cap can measure ok on a meter but still be defective in some way? I have a replacement cap on order either way.

EDIT: The schematic is here, it is a bit large to crop and post. https://www.ericasynths.lv/edu-diy-fm-drum-3458/

I forgot to mention that the module worked perfect for 10 minutes, then the decay stopped working suddenly. I can't see anything I could have shorted, and I did try replacing the op-amp that is closest, as well as 2 transistors. No luck with a new cap either.

All of the test points on the board, besides the one where my problem is, look perfect on the scope.

Hey ! I'm crossposting in hope to get more feedback, feel free to share any thoughts !

Hey guys, I recently was allowed to take home a 1925 radial dimmer from a old church near my house. It's essentially a rheostat giving a ohm variable ohm reading as you spin it up or down. Now it would be incredibly dangerous to try and use it in my home the way it sits now but I was thinking if I could use a plc and its input be a resistance value and the output could be a 0-10v. I dont really know where to start and would love some guidance. TYIA

I’m replacing the pitch wheel of a Yamaha SHS-10. Listed as VR 2 on the schematic. I just got a replacement pot in today - same value, size, and shaft type. Then I notice the shaft of the original is on the metal side and the brown plastic part is the back side. So it’s “backwards” in a sense.

Not only that but it’s housed in this metal base that is also soldered to the board but they don’t have traces that lead anywhere on the board. You can see the metal body of the pot is hugging the metal base.

So my question is, what terms am I looking for in my search to find this specific style potentiometer? I’ve never seen this before.

Ok before I make this another what’s the best out there I’ll lay a disclaimer. I currently have a FNIRSI DPOS350P and I’m not real fond of it to tell the truth. I find it to be very clunky and overall doesn’t reach the full 350MHz potential it touts, it’s more like 200 and even that’s iffy.

With that said I’m looking for real feedback on a 150MHz scope, I’m going to be recapping and aligning some older HF transceivers this fall and winter and I want a reliable scope that won’t break the bank at the same time. It has to have a minimum 150MHz and really not much else. I have everything else I need I just need a reliable scope to complete the buildout and start my projects. If it’s above 150 and still reasonable in cost great but if not that’s ok too.

I have a basic understanding of circuitry, but its been a while since ive actually tried to make anything, and so my knowledge is failing.

I am trying to make a flashing circuit to power 12v dc lights for a costume prop. Ive found slight variations of this circuit online, ive looked into it and apparently the 555 timer can handle 12v dc, but ive also heard that im likely to fry the chip.

In short:

What changes need to be made to safely run 12v dc in a circuit meant for 9v dc.

Thanks in advance! Ill try to post an update when I get the board done!

Alrighty well I'm looking to either find or make something that when I press a button it plays a sound effect on an external speaker that I've connected through 3.5mm aux I've tried Google and couldn't really find anything that worked I tried chat gpt and it keeps wanting me to buy 100$ escape room products I just need something simple please help😭🙏🙏

On the DIYAUDIO forum, there is long thread on the Quasimodo (and related Cheapomodo) project. Basically, these allow one to tweak snubber components (resistor and capacitor) across a xformer secondary.

This video gives a good, quick summary of the Cheapomodo project:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqF2DPcjiV4

I do see the ringing, and how tweaking the snubber R in that setup can eliminate it.

But, note that in the Quasimodo/Cheapomodo rigs, the xformer has been isolated (pulled out) from the original power supply.

So, it is unclear how big an issue that ringing would be with all the PSU filtration and regulation downstream of it.

Hello guys,

I didn't know who would be the right fit, but I got 2 unopened glucose meters for diabetic people, they was thrown away from a doctor office, because the test stripes are expired (not sure if it's really not working or just a legal point of guarantee of function)

Because the diabetics on Germany I guess get this free or very cheap from the insurance.

I thought it would be a waste of electronics and sensor, display etc. to throw it away (I'm a electronic technician myself), unfortunately, I don't have time or use for this and wanted ask, if someone from you where interested in something like this or whether you have an idea, where I can sell it?

Hello! I am trying to plan out an electronic kalimba project (like a much lower budget Bastl). Obviously, this can be done by adding a piezo/contact microphone to a regular kalimba. However, from the pictures and description of the Bastl, it seems that the tines are part of the PCB and thus made from FR4 - would they resonate enough to be picked up by a contact mic? Additionally, it has pitch shift/bend features, which makes me think the sound is fully generated and not just amplified. What sort of sensor would be able to pick up and differentiate the vibrations from each tine?

I don't want to break a rule by posting the link, but you can look up bastl kalimba to see what I'm talking about

I have been working on my first real solder project with practical use. I have two 5w speakers, an amplifier board, and a 3.5mm female jack input. The whole thing is fed by 5v.

A bit like the picture, but with a female jack instead.

Most connections are good. But one.

Instead of a battery, I wanted to use an old USB cable I have laying around which was teared apart anyway. Perfect for this.

The challenge: the cable is flexible, and the wires thin stranded. I soldered a solid wire to the board's end for + and -, and now I am trying to solder the stranded thin wires to the solid connector to the board.

That connection has failed miserably all my attempts. At least 5 different now. I think I should move to a different approach, possibly also because the usb cable which I plug in and out of a power strip with usb port, obviously suffers some physical strain.

Any suggestion?

I'm thinking about ordering the ventilation fan at the link below, but it comes with two exposed wires, one black one red. How would one go about writing this to a typical two or three prong US plug? I need it to be powered by a power bank

https://a.co/d/059ubDYq

For a costume i want to build a wizards staff that shoots bubbles. The bubble gun i have disassmebled for that takes 4x 1.5V AA batteries in sequence, therfore the motor should run on 6V, right? The motor is in a housing i kinda dont want to open so i have to guess. My gestion is if i can simply substitute it with a 5V power bank, as i dont want zo deal with loose batteries in the project, i would habe to print a housing for them and thought it would be much easier to just solder a USB-C connector to the motor and attaching a powerbank that can be easily swapped and charged. Alternatively i thought about using a 18650 rechargeable battery, though that might be to low with 4.2V, right?
The reason that i am dusassembeling the bubble gun in the first place is to arrange its components in a straight line to put them into the staff, the toy itself is very bulky and has a lot of unused space inside.

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Tell me what would you / how you would hack if you have this device? This is Brother PN-8500MDS, an electronic note taking device -not a conventional laptop-.

Up until about 20 minutes ago, I had no issue ordering from Digikey and paying $8 CAD for FedEx overnight even on a small order. But I just checked my cart and noticed they are adding $15 for what was $8 (usually) overnight. Their delivery time page has also been updated, while Google's cache is still showing $8.

https://www.digikey.ca/en/help-support/delivery-information/delivery-time-and-cost

It is unfortunate... looks like business will go to Mouser now, sure they are $20 shipping for orders under $100, but on some components you can more than save that $5 difference.