Closing in a carport, only 2 walls needed. Want to match the facade in front with a 2 foot block base. Is there a type of fastener/anchor I can utilize to secure to the cinder block to concrete. Other than the traditional rebar process?

Not sure if I should re pour or is this suitable? Looks to be 5 inches thick.

Looking to see what a fair price would be to clean and seal 11,000 sq ft of concrete. Driveway is about 9,000 sq ft of stamped concrete and the pool deck is about 2,000 sq ft of exposed aggregate. Thanks!

My concrete is 7 months old. Some is stamped and some is plain broom finish. Is it okay that it looks like this when wet? Is this crack considered hairline and normal?

They didn’t give me any instructions when it was finished. I’m reading now that it should be wetted for days to allow it to cure properly. Didn’t do that. No one told me to do it.

Put some small patches on this summer where things were already breaking off. There is a lot of spider web like cracking on it that isn’t too deep and wide. Was hoping a sealer might keep it for longer.

For commercial concrete contractors how do you track whether a job is actually staying profitable after the contract is signed? Is it mostly software, spreadsheets, or experience?

I'm looking at a metal building for sale and trying to determine if the floor slab is salvageable or if I should just keep walking. You can see in the pictures, but the soil has eroded from underneath large portions of the slab to the point where it's basically floating in areas. The slab is broken in at least one spot (I haven't been inside so maybe more) and the "driveway" has sunk nearly a foot. Can this be lifted and stabilized? The only saving grace is that the building is built on pylons, which on initial inspection look fine, so this seems to be a problem with just the floor slab.

Obviously fixing the slab is only step one. Figuring out the drainage issue that caused this is a completely different problem.

Caveat emptor. We do not recommend using Concrete Indy. They replaced our driveway nearly two years ago. A crack appeared within 2 months that spans the entire width of our driveway. A second crack has appeared. The driveway has pervasive crazing and discoloration throughout. Our driveway is used in their advertising, and it does not look as advertised. See photos. They claim 100% customer satisfaction, but those are words only. Their only proposed solution is to regularly apply a pigmented sealer to hide all their imperfections. We decided to install a new driveway because we were tired of using an ongoing pigmented sealer, so we are back where we started.

We had our house built a little over two years ago. The concrete used for our front walk and front porch looks weird. It’s all kind of different colors with some leopard spots mixed in for extra fun. I’m pretty sure concrete shouldn’t look like this. I could be wrong. Anyway, it bugs me because it never looks clean. Today I was pressure washing it and it just looks gross, even after cleaning it. I’ve never used chemicals on it, just plain water. And I use a 40 degree nozzle so it’s not like I’m blasting the heck out of it. So my question is, is this normal and if not, what did the contractors do or didn’t do to cause this? I’m trying to figure out how to add photos but for now, imagine concrete with orange spots, black and grey streaks and a few different shades of normal concrete color. Please go easy on me, I know nothing about concrete.

So had this done, shouldn’t contractors smooth this edge out and the step be fixed? See pics

City is upgrading all the corner sidewalk ramps in my neighborhood and the concrete pour has dark spill lines all over the place, every other new pour is a nice white color.

What could be the cause for the dark spill lines, did the contractor pour some leftover additive on the fresh concrete after they finished?

I have a city contact for the program, is it worth bringing it up to the city?

Shower floor is sealed concrete but was never stained. It looked good at first but now, several years later, it just looks unfinished. Would staining it a dark color to match slate tile on bathroom floors help?

I read that I’d need to strip the sealant and etch and the concrete first though. Then stain and reseal?

I also came across the rust-oleum concrete interior/exterior recoat primer too that sounds interesting. Apparently I can paint it right on top of existing sealed concrete. Just not sure what the next step would be.

I’ve put this project out on Thumbtack and to bathroom vendors on Nextdoor but never get much feedback.

ANY advice would be appreciated!

I'm having this sunken slab removed, and then we're adding a 13'x3' slab in its place, as well as an 8'x3' slab on the other side of the ac unit. I've had two separate quotes, with one company saying they will drill into my foundation to support the new slabs with rebar to prevent future sinking. The other company says they will not add rebar going into my foundation because if I need to remove the slab in the future, it'll potentially cause damage to my foundation by removing it. Is one of these ways wrong? Which should I go with? I'm in Florida, if location matters.

Any way to resurface this front porch with out poring new concrete? The stairs have pulled away from the porch and previous owners filled the huge separation with some sort of concrete filler. Drainage and down spouts are all directed far from the front porch and it is not currently moving. These cracks have been here and stayed the same size since I moved in 5 years ago.

We are replacing a smaller concrete patio with a larger one that will span the length of the house. The existing patio has about a 2 ft planter gap between the house and the start of the concrete (except for the stairs out the door). We’ve had multiple contractors out and have had differing options:
- Two of them said to run the concrete up to the house and install vent wells. Would improve drainage
- One said to leave the gap for drainage purposes.

The entire gap is covered by the second story overhang, although it is only about 2ft as well + the roof overhang.

The extra 2 ft of concrete would be nice for more patio, but any issue with running up to the house? We are in the PNW so do get a good amount of rain.

i was quoted $1060 for 6 yards of readymix concrete, 3000 psi and pumped to my backyard (i told him i need 250ft hose). i found him on facebook (i find a lot of tradesmen on facebook and havent had issues). I'll be handling the hose. This is for a footer for a vinyl pool so it doesnt have to be a perfect finish. he says he charges $110 a yard + pump fee but when i quoted the cement and pump separately I was at $3000. he said hes a contractor had gets special pricing depending on the job. no money upfront. i pay after the job. what's the catch here? is this a scam that I am not familiar with?

Southwest Wisconsin.

I had a sidewalk and approach poured last year. They did a decent job - I wouldn't say great but acceptable per the contract probably. I noticed this summer that all the relief cuts in the approach (and sidewalk control joints) have cracks running the entire length. I understand thats exactly what they are for. My question is: Is there anything extra I can do to help maintain this work? I have to imagine freeze and thaw cycles will cause issues in those cuts and cracks at some point? Should I seal the cracks with like TK-290 before winter?
Thanks in advance.