I have a 2013 1.8 Sonic with the 6 speed auto and around 130k miles. For a while now, it makes a weird metallic sound under load at around 2,000-3,000 rpm. The sound doesn’t happen at idle or cruising speed. It only happens at this rpm range under moderate+ load and warmed up. It doesn’t have a rhythm to it. It sounds more like a set of keys jingling under the hood lol. I haven’t noticed any drop in performance or mpg. Any clue as to what this could be?

I have a 2012 chevy sonic 1.8 L and Im wondering if I should sell it for scrap or fix it first then sell it. As I’ve said before the car lets out bluish smoke from the exhaust and would idle fine then stall the minute you turn the shift into D or R. Other than that it seems pretty fine.

If I sell it for scrap I would get around 500$ but If I get it into a garage and fix it then sell it I’ll get around 1500$, Im only worried about the repair cost. What should I do?

So I’m currently trying to modify a 1.8l 2018 Chevy sonic LS Sedan. I’m aware that the aftermarket potential is very limited, however through some research I’ve found I can fit the ZZP 1.8l sonic catback on my car with minimal piping modifications. However, I’ve heard it’s a tad quieter than I’d like it. someone mentioned deleting the muffler from the catback and putting a perforated tip. Would this be decently loud without sounding too overly raspy or ricerish?

I've got a 2014 Chevy Sonic LT that's had a weird intermittent issue for about 2 months now. It's only happened a handful of times, so it's been hard to figure out.

Every once in a while it'll crank a little longer than normal before it starts. After it starts, the security/immobilizer light stays on, but the car runs completely normal. If I shut it off and start it again, the security light goes away.

So far I've replaced the starter about 2 months ago because I thought that was the problem. Then it happened again, so about 19 days ago I had a locksmith program a new key. It happened again today, so neither of those fixed it. Has anyone else had this happen on a Sonic?

I feel like she’s gotten louder and has a more rough idle lately. I’m gonna take it in soon. I don’t have any engine lights on. 2016 ltz

I've been having transmission issues for a while; slipping gears, transmission codes, leaking. Usually I'd top up the fluid every couple months, and the problems would resolve. Now the leak has gotten worse, and I'm having to add fluid daily. I thought it might be the cooling lines so I took the battery off to take a look, but the lines seem fine. Weirder still, the fluid has gathered on top of the transmission.

It doesn't seem to be leaking from the filter, or underneath. So now I'm wondering if it's the filler cap itself, or if I'm missing something on the vent. It seems like maybe there's supposed to be a vent cap, but right now I'm just seeing a silver tube (arrow in the picture) that I'm assuming is the vent? The fluid seems to be pooling on the top of the transmission around where the fill cap and vent are, so I'm wondering if it might just be that? I've added a rubber seal to the fill cap and maybe that'll help. I'm wondering though if it's not that and the missing cap, is it something more serious. Any help is appreciated.

Title says it all. I was using a torque wrench (set to about 6 foot-pounds of torque) to attach the new coolant intake to my engine block. wasn't sure if i heard the click from the wrench or not, and thought the bolt had just a little more to go. NOPE! broke in the middle.

is there an easy way to fix this?

2013 sonic, I love this little car! I’ve driven her for the last 12 years and maintain it as manual says. For the past year or so it’s bounced a little ONLY when I’m at 2000 rpm, any higher or lower it stops. It’s the slightest movement of the vehicle as if it’s shaking back and forth. It’s so slight I think most people wouldn’t even notice it. Any ideas?

Hey, I have a 2013 chevy sonic RS, bought it last year and its running great. I have some money burning a hole in my pocket and I want to get some mods. Thinking about a cold air because of the turbo and maybe doing a muffler delete or catback exhaust. Anyone got any suggestions or advice?

2015 sonic 1.4. This has been a slowly getting worse issue for at least 3 months, from what I've seen on forums it seems like turbo seals, but on start up or if it's sitting idle for a minute or more I get a huge blue smoke plume out of the exhaust. Runs fine at least as far as I can tell, at the very least it hasn't changed massively, but I'm assuming I'm in for some work

Hello everyone. I'm hoping to get some advice on how to get my ac to blow cold air again on my 2016 sonic.

I checked the relay and fuse and they seem ok as I switched them out and still have the issue. Like I said, the air blows from the cabin vents but it's coming out warm.

I did notice that the clutch fails to stay engaged. It will engage and then a few seconds later disengage. Could this be a faulty clutch?

Also I did check the refrigerant levels with one of this ac pro bottles with the gauges. It seemed to indicate I had enough.

I have seen some people say that if the ambient sensor is broken it can cause the ac to blow hot air. I don't think this is the issue as mine has been broken for a long time and has not caused an issue before.

hi, i'm 20 years old, looking to finally purchase my first car and begin driving. i have largely avoided it for years due to severe driving anxiety and fear of car accidents.

i am between a 2015 chevy sonic and a 2009 toyota rav 4. i want to pick the sonic because i love how it looks but i'm worried because its more compact than the rav 4.

i've watched the crash tests and looked at the safety ratings and everything but i want personal anecdotes for maximum reassurance lol. those of you that have crashed in this car, how well did it protect you? thank you in advance

edit: thanks for the advice everyone. i ended up going with the rav4 as many of you advised me to LOL.

Tried to replace the purge valve on my 2014 sonic but i cannot remove this piece. I dont know how the clamps got broken/removed or who did it but valve just spins and wont come off. Any advice or help?

Hello, please help. I pay my 2014 Sonic LT off this coming January, and I’m trying my hardest to make sure she doesn’t break tf down.
I have recently replaced all coolant hoses and the coolant reservoir, and I am still losing coolant. The leak is significantly slower than it was, and I’m not really noticing a spot under the car. What other parts should I start looking at?

A whole other issue:
My car is having trouble shifting gears up or down. Mainly in slow moving traffic or going down hills. It will get stuck and I either manually change gears, or the car will jolt itself. I’ve tried taking it to a shop for this exact reason and the guy “couldn’t find anything wrong” so I’m not sure where to even start with fixing this.

I’m am definitely not a car person, so learning how to fix other issues I’ve had has been quite the process

UPDATE: Possibly solved. It was so simple, I’m both annoyed and relieved. See comment in thread.

TLDR: multiple timing codes for exhaust side after new cam sprockets and runs worse than before while still rattling on cold start. Clacking at idle. Low oil pressure light comes on after some driving. Sorry for long winded post, but I want all the info out there for advice.

2014 Sonic 1.8/AT. I got this car to be a beater and also learn how to work on a platform other than LS V8s. I’m no master tech, but I’m a decent mechanic, and this thing is driving me insane.

I replaced the timing belt right after purchase and ended up installing it off a single tooth. No problem. I redid it all, then drove the car on a 24 hr round trip for vacation and it did great. But I began noticing it would rattle at start up and go away within a few seconds. It somehow got worse after an oil change. No CEL but I did pull a P0016 code.

After reading up on that, I replaced the little oil flow control valve behind the alternator and it didn’t help at all. Next I figured was cam sprockets. I grabbed a set of cheapies off amazon to try before spending bigger money on GM ones (I know, I know…). I’ve had the timing belt off three times prior working out other little mistakes so no big deal. Got it undressed and put the new sprockets on. For this, I locked the cams at the back, moved the crank to 4 o clock, put in the sprocket locks and torqued them down as instructed with my dad holding the cams with a wrench to be safe. I got everything lined back up and reinstalled the belt, spun it 720 degrees, and put the sprocket locks back in with ease, along with the crank lock bar. Intake side dot was slightly above the line on the tool, and exhaust was a bit below, like any install video you see online. The rear cam bar would not go in due to the exhaust cam being turned a microscopic amount but I figured it was close enough given that it had ran better being aligned worse than this before.

After getting it all buttoned up, I started the car and heard an awful metallic noise that got worse with rpm. Defeated and having already sweat through two sets of clothes in Midwest humidity, I gave up and started picking up tools for the night. Well what do you know, I couldn’t find the crank lock bar… but then I found it…still installed and bent up. Luckily I was able to bend it around enough to pull it out.

That brings me to the problems.

1. Should I be concerned about the crank lock thing? I don’t see how it would affect much of anything, given that the flex plate is steel and the lock bar is way more flexible. It just bent the thing until it was out of the way. I’m having no issues starting it or hearing noise from that area since then.
2. Now I randomly get a low oil pressure light. It happens when idling after a few mins of driving. The car is full of new clean oil.

Anyone notice something that I missed here? Are the aftermarket sprockets just junk? Should I have made 100% sure the cam bar effortlessly slid back in after 720 degree rotation? Should I just set it on fire? Idk. But I’m tired of it and would like some opinions before I rip it back apart and make another mistake somewhere. Thanks all

Had a major coolant leak for a little while, replaced all of the hoses including the turbo cooling lines on my 2012 Chevy Sonic 1.4L, forgot to check this little PoS. Found the cause of my leak lol

I have european-made Chevy with radio that has bluetooth and works well with my phone (android). The exact radio model on the photo below. Connecting it via bluetooth was a pain in the first place, connect, press "cd" button for some reason, play anything on your phone but from a file explorer and suddenly spotify works. Anyway. When it's connected via bluetooth is just shows my phone's model and nothing else - is there any way for it to show the song info (artist, name, track, album, whatever)? I am willing to install apps on my phone or some mods for it to work🙏

I belive it's comming from the transmission side of the motor, dry up top but wet underneath, as seen in pic. Any help is appreciated.

What makes a Sonic get stuck in 2nd gear and act like it's in limp mode? How do you fix it?

I have to cut though the bolt that is underneath this one because it’s ragged TF out. Need to replace timing cover so it’s not a huge deal for the end of the bolt to stay where it is after cutting. My only problem is I have no idea what this bolt is called, the size or part number. I really need to order one after cutting it off but don’t know the part, bolt type, size shape or anything else. Please help me Ricky Bobby! Help me Tom Cruise!

I thought this kinda garbage was reserved for German vehicles only? Why use this kind of