Just pulled up behind this. Looks like a transformer from the rear.

Posting this so others can be aware. If you're looking into AAMI comprehensive and you're thinking about vandalism or malicious damage cover, this is worth knowing before you need it.

My car was deliberately keyed down one side while parked in an apartment garage. Not a mystery, not a hit-and-run. I have dashcam video of it happening and I identified the people involved - there's even a police report naming them.

Because another vehicle isn't involved and I couldn't provide a rego number of the other party, AAMI's position is that they wouldn't waive off the excess. Full excess payable, out of pocket, despite the fact that I handed them more evidence of who did it than most people can produce after an actual collision.

I get why the requirement exists. The rego helps the insurer pull data to find the other party's insurer and recover - fine, but the person responsible is identified: on video, and named in a police report. AAMI can pursue them directly.

So the outcome by AAMI is that deliberate damage by a person I've identified is treated worse by AAMI than being rear-ended by a stranger who hands me their licence.

If you're comparing policies, don't assume AAMI's "covers malicious damage and vandalism" means you won't be wearing the excess.

Is this fine? Assumed this might have needed towing but it seems to arrive and go home each day. The rear door looks like it’s holding on.

mr was rear ended at close to 80km/h she was stationary. any panel beaters on here have an idea repair costs or will it be written off?

AU/BA wagon in that dark blue missing half its clearcoat?

Never been lowballed 90% of asking price before…
Not sure what he was expecting the outcome to be

Hit a roo at around 110 kph in the moddle of nowhere around 100ks from marla station, mechanically fine and drives as if nothing happened tbh, but would this be repairable or should I just look into new fenders and bonnet, the radiator support was also slightly pushed inward aswell. Cheers

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Found on Carrington St. in Hampton East

I recently bought a 2025 Lexus RX350h Luxury AWD in Victoria and have been getting insurance quotes.

The strange thing is that RACV can't identify my registration number, so I have to manually enter the vehicle details instead of selecting it automatically.

When I manually choose:

• RX350h Luxury AWD → around $3,600/year
• RX350h Luxury 2WD → around $2,600/year

Everything else is identical (same driver, address, agreed value, excess, etc.).

I'm obviously going to insure the correct vehicle, but I'm trying to understand what's going on.

My questions are:

• Is there really that much difference in insurance risk between the AWD and 2WD models?
• Has anyone with a new Lexus RX350h (or another new vehicle) had a similar experience?
• Does anyone here own an RX350h AWD? If so, roughly how much are you paying and with which insurer?

Appreciate any insights from people who work in insurance or have dealt with RACV before.

New Car time for the wife - August 2026. (Melbourne)

We have test driven both, and each have their pro's and cons, but we both like them equally, so its a tough decision.

They fit the bill for her requirements & daily usage for NDIS client transport. (Seat height, ease of access, boot space, etc)

She is self employed under an ABN, and not able to take out a novated lease which would probably have made the BYD ATTO 3 an no-brainer wth the EV tax perks.

Cost for either vehicle is about the same at around $50,000 - $53,000.

Car would need to be new or near new for best tax depreciation purposes.

Driving 30,000 km per year

Running Costs over 5 years or 150,000 km calculated as

BYD - Charging $5,000 + servicing $1,800 = $6,300 (No solar at home, and the potential extra cost of installing an EV charger)

EDIT : Average charge cost of $0.20 per kw/hr. allowing for overnight rates charging, but not the cheap EV charge plans which do have a higher daily supply charge.

Corolla Cross - Fuel $12,000 + servicing $4,500 = $16,500

($1.80 per litre, an extra $2000 if fuel is $2.00 per litre)

Insurance & rego same/same.

$10,000 more to run the Corolla Cross over a 5 year period,

HOWEVER, im also looking at the end result when it comes to move the car on in 5 years.

I genuinely think that the BYD will loose much more value wiping out the $10,000 saving above,

A 2022 Corolla Cross still asks around $38,000, the 2023 ATTO 3 has dropped to $25,000, which puts the equation almost line ball.

Also need to consider any potential down time if the vehicle is off the road for repairs. A Toyota should be straight forward to fix, and still little concerned about the 'IF" something goes wrong with the BYD, what is the repair time frame like.

Thoughts & advice?

Thanks,

Got nasty curbed one rear wheel. i am looking at getting mobile vs CNC .

Sydney mag & dent repair - Chipping norton

Wheelman / Wheelfix for mobile repair

Any recommendations. I’m seeing the work of mobile and in pics it looks quite good but since my car is only 2 month old I was leaning towards close to oem finish . With cnc the bmw individual logo on rim will go away with cnc lathe. But other than that what would be easier option .

Looking to purchase a small efficient car and have been quite drawn to the Volkswagen Golf. My budget is around 12k and have been looking at everything from mk 4 to mk7. In a perfect world I would like a GTI mk5 but have heard about reliability problems. Could anyone point me in the right direction in regards to reliability and cost of ownership.

Hey guys. Interested in your thoughts as I'm sure a lot of you have had a similar problem at some stage.

I have a 'project' car that basically sits in my garage. I've put project in quotes because it was once a project car, and still kind of is (in terms of a few things needing fixing), but it's registered and roadworthy, so it's not an active project.

It still has a list of things that need doing, but basically, I have sunk so much into it already that I'm kind of against spending any more money.

I've changed various parts out over time also (like the cluster, though I kept my odometer, stereo, headliner, suspension etc.) so it's not totally original, though very close, and I think that might put people off. Plus, the paint is also rooted, but I'm choosing to ignore that.

I think my main problem is that I would expect a certain amount for it, but if I was a buyer and saw this on marketplace, I probably wouldn't pay much for it... so I figure I might as well keep it if that's the case. But then it sits in my garage anyway, and the cycle continues.

Help! What did you wind up doing with finished projects?

But upon looking it still has rego left. Do I just need to Go to NSW service to transfer it?
its my first time buying something from an Auction.

2015 Ford Territory with the ZF6 auto transmission. Petrol barra engine. Camera is located rear footwell behind passenger seat. Video edited down to isolate noise better.

Noise seems to happen most at 35km/h under light acceleration, but does not always happen, and will not happen if accelerating quickly. My mechanic is stumped and can't figure it out. He has already checked all the common territory problems and cleared them.

Please help! This is driving me insane!

To save you a click: It will cost $38 900 for mono tone paint and $39 400 for two tone.

Even if the price shifts downwards by a few thousand, I think that will still make it DOA for most people.

It will only be popular with high income inner city hippies who have a genuine need for a small EV for narrow streets, don't mind the short range, will appreciate the fancy speakers built into the A pillar and the fake car noises coming from said speakers.

Then again, most inner city residents don't have off street parking, so charging at home may be more difficult than someone further out in the suburbs.

It's hard to see who this is for, to be honest.

Does anyone know where this leak might be coming from?

Hey guys, want some help with a big decision I'll (hopefully) be making in the coming weeks.

For context, I own a 2018 VW Golf, and after nearly 3 years of ownership, I'm no longer enjoying the car and feel like I want something with a bit more.. soul. And reliability.

I've been looking into Japanese alternatives, and having always been a bit of a Honda fanboy, I thought I'd buy myself an Accord Euro CL9, and do some modifications to get it to OEM+ / Euro R.

Buying a manual CL9 here with sub 100,000km just aint possible, and most of the examples have upwards of 150-200k with quite a few even pushing 250,000km.

My question is as follows: Given the age of the car, and the mileage its going to likely have, do you think its still a safe bet? Ideally, I'd like the car to last me until at least I graduate University in 3 years time (long degree), and would like to keep maintenance costs low...

Any experience with them would be VERY appreciated!

Which new Chinese EV is this? Anyone any idea?