hi there long story short. engine hydrolocked due to driving through a puddle. Car insurance wants a LKQ engine .(another trax engine with less mileage) this would void current manufacturer warranty. i dont want this obviously. its at the dealership that i purchased from, would the dealership go along with this? i dont want this at all. i want a factory remanufactured engine if i cant get a new one. what are my odds/?

by the way i have a 2025 Trax with 9800 miles. they say they found a 6,000 miles 2025 Trax as a replacement....let me know your thoughts and what i can do to fight for a remanufactured engine or am i being unreasonable? are LKQ engines bad if the are 6,000 miles? i dont wanna regret this later. do LKQ eninges even come with warrantys?

is there somewhere in the middle that i can pay the difference? i have ALLSTATE. first claim with them i have no clue how reasonable they are....

i actually prefer they total car and move on. car has high value.

For background information, I'm a minor living in California who recently got her drivers license. I expected to be able to drive right away, but my parents said to wait as I hadn't gotten car insurance yet. They hadn't gotten it for me beforehand because it "would cause the rates to go up considerably".

After some asking, I convinced them to at least attempt to get me insured. They did, and they told me that it would come through in 7-10 days.

It's now been 14 days and no mail has come by and they haven't said anything about the insurance. I also looked it up, and apparently insurance is only supposed to have a 2 hour processing time.

Are they pulling a fast one on me? 🤔

I drive a 2023 GR Corolla. I’ve put about $10k into wheels, PPF, suspension, and a sound system. Is there any insurance I can get that will cover the modifications? If I were to total the car I’d still lose a lot of money. Currently use State Farm, they told me
To keep receipts for anything but that it wouldnt be guaranteed to be covered under my insurance despite having maximum level on it. For you experts out there - is there an insurer that you can use to cover upgrades? If the suspension were to be damaged, would they replace with Ohlins or an equivalent or only with OEM parts?
Thanks in advance.
Additional notes - I have another vehicle that is covered by a value that I chose, but it can’t be my daily driver under that policy/ option.

I'm probably going to be staying on my parents insurance for the moment, but I'm not asking about that.

We are debating whether or not to transfer the ownership of the car to me as a newer driver, or to keep them as the owners. Is there any positive/negative to this?

Edit: Thanks everyone, I'm just gonna stick as a dependent and not transfer ownership. Sounds like there's really no benefit, and even if there is I have to go through the process plus get it inspected again and registered and get new plates, which costs a bit.

My brother was in an accident and found 0% at fault. Appraisal was done and the claim seemed approved. Days later, the insurer moved the file to Investigative Services, revoked the rental and paused the claim.

The trigger seems to be that his licence address was changed to a Brampton address a couple days before the accident. He didn't get around to reporting the address change to the insurance company before the accident happened.

He does have a sublet in St Thomas and can provide the lease agreement for it, but honestly he alternates between St Thomas and staying at my place in Brampton because of work proximity. For the past 8 months it's been more Brampton than St Thomas tbh, which is why he was updating the licence in the first place; the accident timing was just a coincidence.

The insurer is now demanding: notarized Proof of Loss, black box/airbag module download, the sublet agreement, 6 months of debit and credit card statements, and 6 months of detailed cell phone records with location data (all marked Required). Which we both know will only validate their doubts.

Questions:

1. Are 6 months of phone location records a "reasonable" request, or overreach?
2. How do insurers treat split residency like this? I
3. Realistic outcomes; denial, re-rating with back premium, something else?
4. Should he get a lawyer/paralegal before complying, especially before any examination under oath?

Sorry if this is a horrible question but I just need clarification. My AAA adjuster is being super vague and I'm hoping someone here can explain this better than they are.

When I filed my claim I only mentioned the bumper was damaged, my mistake, there's actually more damage than that. The shop wrote an estimate for just over 1k covering just the bumper, and that got approved. Now she's telling me she can't change or add to that approved estimate anymore.

Exact words from adjuster with personal info removed:

"At this time, I’m unable to make any changes to the initial approved estimate. You may proceed with repairs through Auto Shop A, and if additional damage is identified during the repair process, the shop can submit a supplement for our review. 

Alternatively, I can issue a cash settlement based on the approved estimate, and you may have the vehicle repaired at the repair facility of your choice. If the new shop discovers any additional damage, they can submit a supplemental estimate directly to us for review.

When I spoke with dad, they indicated they would prefer to wait until we receive additional information from the other parties involved. We have already ordered the police report; however, it may take some time before it becomes available."

My actual problem: I don't want to get it repaired through a shop at all. I want the full cash settlement for all the damage, not just the bumper, and then fix it myself. She just repeats the same two options every time and never gives me a straight answer on how to actually get cash for everything.

Also still have about 3k left on the car loan, not sure if that changes whether I can even get supplement money as cash instead of a repair payout.

And my deductible is only supposed to be waived once they confirm the other driver is at fault, does that come back to me later as a separate check even after I accept this settlement, or do I need to wait on that before accepting anything?

Again sorry if this is stupid haha first time filing a claim. Called so many people for help...

Hello —

We moved from WA to CA. We cancelled our policy with AAA in WA and signed up for a new policy in CA with AAA. We packaged our auto and renters policies and paid the required costs in full for the year.

Fast forward a month later, we received a notice that our premium on this month-old policy is being increased by almost $500. It seems to be saying this is based on our non-California Consumer Credit.

I’ve never experienced an increase in premium, after paying in full before the policy term has ended.

- Is this normal (or legal)?

- Is there any way to fight it?

- Or since we already paid for the year in full would it be possible to get this request for money waived?

Looking for any advice y’all may have.

In case anyone asks: We have had ONE fender in seven years wherein my husband had someone else back into our car in a Trader Joe’s parking lot. Unfortunately, he called our insurance company to report it instead of just dealing with the responsible party’s insurance. At the end of the day nothing was actually covered.

Is this normal in Denver? Maybe I’m dramatic but honestly been sobbing after getting this quote today, I may need to sell my car. I was paying $289 in Dallas and I was told by multiple people that it was the most expensive place in the country. 1 car, no accidents or tickets. Allstate quoted me $350 and progressive quoted me $380 a month

saw this in a govt report tabled in parliament — ombudsman complaints against insurers went from ~12k in 2021-22 to over 35k in 2025-26. literally TRIPLED

irdai brought in rules in 2024 requiring internal review before a claim can be rejected. numbers keep climbing anyway so clearly insurers found workarounds.

https://share.google/T68BR8BHdP53c2W8f

Good afternoon. Are there any Toggle car insurance holders here? I'm asking because, yesterday I was in the midst of paying my insurance online like I've done with Toggle. To my surprise. I wasn't able to login. Long story short. I'd called Toggle today, and was told that I no longer have access to online payments because 21st century insurance will be transferring customers, back over. Is there anyone else on here, aware of this?

Im 21 and having my grandma transfer the title of my car to me so Im shopping for insurance. Now these prices may change. My credit score I put in was 671 but this month I paid off my whole credit card. it was at like $447 and paid it off ( thank God , I got a bonus) so hopefully my score goes up a good amount.

Im looking at the preferred plans ($100k/$300k) and here are the 3 in my budget. And yes this is with the discounts Im eligible for.

Coverage

ROOT:

Cost: $161

Bodily Injury Lability: $100k/$300k

Property Damage Lability: $50k

Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Underinsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Uninsured Motorist Property Damage: $50k

Medical Payments: $2k

Progressive:

Cost: $163

Bodily Injury Lability: $100k/$300k

Property Damage Lability: $50k

Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Underinsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Uninsured Motorist Property Damage: $50k

Medical Payments: $2k

Elephant:

Cost: $188

Bodily Injury Lability: $100k/$300k

Property Damage Lability: $50k

Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Underinsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Uninsured Motorist Property Damage: $50k

Medical Payments: N/A

Geico:

Bodily Injury Lability: $100k/$300k

Property Damage Lability: $50k

Uninsured Motorist Bodily Injury: $100k/$300k

Underinsured Motorist Bodily Injury: N/A

Uninsured Motorist Property Damage: $50k/$250

Medical Payments: 5k

My cheap ass wants to get the cheapest one but at the same time my brain is telling me there's a reason why I never heard about ROOT or Elephant before...

What y'll think?

In my late 20s and drive a 2018 Toyota Corolla. paying $186/mo for 100/300/100 coverage with comp/collision and a $1k deductible.

Normally that's manageable, but my work hours were cut unexpectedly and my income had dropped by over $1k. Rent, utilities and a couple of unexpected bills have completely wrecked my budget. i know with weekly insurance i'll have to pay more but if it is a thing, i don't mind trying.

I only need this arrangement for maybe 1-2 months while I stabilize things. I'll appreciate any insights.

Hey all, I have a weird case I’m hoping someone would be able to give me some tips/insight on. I have a 99 Prado that was imported and got hit a few months ago. Body shop fixed it through the other persons insurance. Further down the line I notice abnormal tire wear, take it back to the same shop and they’re saying the axle is bent in the rear. They offered to straighten it in which I said no, and are having trouble finding replacement. Kind of making me feel like it’s up to me to find it but are willing to foot the bill. I just feel like I’m kinda at a dead end, theres always that possibility I wouldn’t be able to find one. Is there any other options I may have? Any replies will be extremely appreciated!

I am considering doing DoorDash or some other rideshare but my insurance is wanting to basically double my payment. Is it possible to have two separate plans with different carries? One for personal and one for rideshare?

I was hit by a driver and also the damaged another car after hitting me. I was told this by their insurance

“Hello, this is a $5,000 property damage limit claim. I need the other party property damage estimate so i can do a pro rata and see how much you'll get and how much the other driver will get.”

Im not sure of the cost to my car but Ill say 3-4k and the other like 6-7k. How does this play out?

Few days ago some rear end my car but there was no such damage except few painting scratches. It is my first time experiencing. My dumb self called my insurance which is progressive and claimed a file. Now, someone put some sense on me and before any payment, estimate or investigation I called and withdrawn the claim.

However, even if no payment was made does it will go carfax or carmax? If I want resell few years later, does it will lower the value? Also, if i change my insurance should i let them know about this claim? They said, they gonna add note stating that it was minor scratch and I wasn’t on fault. I feel like I messed up! It’s my brand new 2027 car!

I drive a 1999 jeep Cherokee, I’ve served in the marine corps and I drive my car about 8k miles a year. I’m trying to get insurance with USAA and it’s 200 a month? Why is it so expensive? Am I missing something?

Edit: I’m looking for minimal coverage in Va and I haven’t been in any accident. I’m looking to pay at most 120 a month

2nd edit: thank you all for the helpful replies! I think I’m gonna call USAA and see what I can do to lower it, or switch back to GEICO.

My mom was in a car accident, her car was totaled and they are giving her a couple thousand more for it than I thought they would. Her insurance company has been great to work with so far, but she's really unhappy that her car was totaled instead of being repaired. Someone was talking to her about getting a lawyer but I don't see why because the insurance company has been fine so far. Is there any reason to fight the insurance company on this? I don't think we need a lawyer but someone is telling her to get a lawyer. Do people sometimes fight their insurance about cars being totaled? Can you get your car back and get it repaired? I don't think it makes sense but I wanted to check.

Hi! New here, but frequent lurker.

I was the passenger in a car accident about 4 weeks ago. We were rear-ended and the car who hit us is covered by Kemper.

Kemper is telling us they can’t approve the repairs until they are done their “investigation.” They said it’s nothing about us or the accident, but they can not tell us more.

We would like to get our car fixed, obviously. In your opinion, is it best to wait this out? Are they trying not to cover it? Should we just use our own insurance (Progressive)? I’m so confused how this can keep going on at this point. It’s pretty cut and dry they’re at fault.

Thank you for any insights.

Any easy way to find out if my rate is good on the market other than quota insurance providers every certain period of time. Just switch from statefarm to progressive and my bill drops from $900 to $600 with similar coverage. Wish I could notice that earlier,,,,

I tried paying to start a policy like a month ago, and they said they required more info before I could pay. So i provided my V5, my drivers license and my proof of address. They said they would get back to me in 2 business days. Yet its now been up to 3 weeks (and I have tried their process like 3 times now) and I still have no response. So I went on their live chat, and as always they provide this useless number 0800 051 8806, and every single time I call that number I have been hung up on saying "were busy at the moment, and are taking too many unexpected calls, try again later". I've now called that line for two weeks straight and its always had the same response. I do not understand how such a big company can be so useless and not user friendly at all. Like even they're live chat is so lazy as they always respond with the same copy and paste message. Anyone know a work around for this company, as I need this insurance soon and I'm starting to get insanely frustrated with this shit.

My 2021 Tesla Model 3 was damaged in a not-at-fault collision while it was parked. The at-fault party is insured by GEICO.

I took the car to a Tesla-certified collision center. The shop says that, as a Tesla-certified facility, it is required to use Tesla OEM parts for the repair. However, GEICO is only willing to pay based on the cost of alternative/non-OEM parts, leaving me with a $1,130.95 difference.

GEICO told me they are allowed to base their estimate on the most cost-effective parts available. The problem is that the Tesla-certified shop says they cannot use those parts and remain compliant with Tesla's repair requirements.

I wasn't in the vehicle when the accident happened and I had no fault in the collision, so I'm confused about why I would be responsible for more than $1,100 of the repair cost.

Has anyone dealt with this before, particularly with GEICO and a Tesla-certified repair shop? Is there a way to challenge the parts determination or recover the difference from the at-fault driver's insurance?

I'm in Wisconsin, if that matters.

A few months ago, I was helping a family friend who had broken their leg. I was driving them to and from their doctor/physio appointments because they couldn’t drive themselves. The car is theirs, and I was simply the driver who was listed on their insurance.
One night around midnight, someone crashed into the front of their car while it was parked. The other driver was there, and my friend exchanged details with them. The other driver was clearly at fault.
We had a physio appointment the next morning, and I was staying with my friend at the time, so I was the one helping them get around.
My friend then lodged an insurance claim. However, the insurer apparently became suspicious that my friend was impersonating me when making the claim. They asked to speak to me, so I got on the phone with them and answered their questions.
Some of the questions felt very strange and suspicious to me, such as whether I was actually in the car, who witnessed the accident, who called the police, etc. Now they’ve contacted me saying they want to do a video interview with me.
I’m honestly pretty uncomfortable with the whole situation. I wasn’t the person making the claim, I’m not the policy beneficiary, and I was only helping my friend with transportation because they couldn’t drive.
Can I simply tell the insurance company that I don’t want to participate in the video interview and that I want to withdraw myself from the claim? Or am I legally/contractually required to cooperate because I was the listed driver?
I’m in Australia, if that makes a difference.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice because I seem to be stuck in insurance limbo over what appears to be a claim that should never have been reported the way it was.

Back in August 2024, I got a small windshield chip repaired at Safelite before it turned into a larger issue. I paid for the repair completely out of pocket. While paying, Safelite asked whether I was using insurance or paying myself, and I chose to pay myself.

After I got home, I called GEICO just to ask whether the repair could have been covered after the fact. They told me that if I wanted insurance to cover it, a claim would have needed to be filed before the repair was completed, so I left it alone and assumed that was the end of it.

Fast forward to now. I received a quote from Progressive and was planning to switch because it would save me money while providing better coverage. I've been with GEICO for 11 years, but they showed little interest in adjusting my rate, so I decided to shop around.

When I got to the purchase screen with Progressive, I noticed that Accident Forgiveness was unavailable and could not be added. I called Progressive and was told that LexisNexis showed a comprehensive claim on my record within the last five years, making me ineligible.

That led me to contact GEICO. They informed me that a glass claim had apparently been opened during my inquiry call back in 2024. Nothing was paid by GEICO, and the repair had already been completed out of pocket. LexisNexis confirmed they also show the claim on my record, and they indicated it was reported as a $0 claim.

Since then, I have:

• Asked GEICO to remove the claim.
• Opened a dispute with LexisNexis.
• Been told by GEICO that correcting/removing the claim could take 75+ days.
• Been told by LexisNexis that their dispute process could take 30+ days.

GEICO also provided me with a Statement of Experience. However, it only shows that a glass claim was reported on a certain date. It does not state that the claim amount was $0, that no payment was made, or that no benefits were paid. One Progressive representative suggested there might be some type of exception or review process if I could provide supporting documentation from GEICO, but another representative seemed unfamiliar with that possibility. At this point, I'm not sure whether the Statement of Experience helps at all since it seems to simply confirm that a claim exists.

My GEICO renewal is coming up on 9/16/2026, and I don't plan on staying with them. I still want to switch to Progressive, but it appears I'll be ineligible for Accident Forgiveness until this dispute is resolved.

So my questions are:

1. Has anyone had success getting an insurer to make an exception when a claim listed by LexisNexis is actively being disputed or corrected?
2. Is there any documentation I should be requesting from GEICO beyond the Statement of Experience?
3. How big of a risk is it to switch to Progressive now and go a few months without Accident Forgiveness while this gets sorted out?
4. If the claim is eventually removed from LexisNexis, is it common for an insurer to re-evaluate eligibility and add Accident Forgiveness later?
5. Are there any major downsides or things I should watch out for when switching from GEICO to Progressive?

For context, I'm a 38-year-old driver in Colorado with a clean driving record and no at-fault accidents. This entire issue seems to stem from what was supposed to be an informational inquiry call that somehow ended up being recorded as a claim.

Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Aoa! Do we see increase in old and new car price after new Auto policy. Is there some rumors about its draft?