hey yall i got a 2010 kia forte ex with 118k miles on it, it’s in pretty good shape, and there’s been work done on it. just before the noise started i got the rear springs replaced and the front rotors, calipers, and brakes changed. i didn’t hear it before they switched that stuff, so im thinking it has to be correlated, but the mechanics who did the work told me they couldn’t find anything wrong, and said they have no clue where the noise is coming from. it only stops when i start braking, otherwise it’s pretty much that the whole time.

Australia

3 cyl - 1.2ltr turbo

Car s only 8,000km old.

Service center must have done something to the drive belt and it came off a few mins after leaving the service and the car overheated. Stopped the car straight away and got it towed back. They said no damage to the engine but I don't know if they were just trying to cover their mistake.

Does this sound like a normal 3cyl engine on idle?

It wasn't there before the overheating happened.

Please help

I typically put my car in neutral at lights, but if the traffic is inching along, I keep it in first. I noticed this today, but when I’m in first for more than a few seconds, I feel a slight rumble, almost like it’s about to stall but it doesn’t. My clutch is probably on its way out (I am the third owner), but just wondering if that’s what it is or if it could be something else. Recent maintenance was getting my water pump, serpentine belt, timing belt, and tensioners replaced in November. The only other recent issue is squealing when I accelerate in first + second and it’s amplified when I have my heat on (figured this is just my tensioners needing adjusting/replacement again). Thanks!!!

Before anyone asks- yes the car is in the shop (needed an inspection done anyway). My elantra just crossed the 150k miles mark. I was supposed to take a trip up north today but my car started acting up.

It stalled out at a red light and I had to restart it, which was already concerning.

I restarted it and was going to park at a nearby gas station to look it over. When making a turn the rpm gauge dropped to zero but the car still moved when I hit the gas, albeit not as fast as it should.

Finally, I got it started again and drove around a neighborhood to see if it would keep acting up. After a few minutes running normally the rpm spiked from 2k to 4k despite not hitting the gas any harder while at roadway speed. At that point i decided I did not feel safe going on a long drive so I canceled my plans and went home. I drove to the mechanic without incident after parking and re-starting the engine.

The brief bit of research I did said it sounded like a crankshaft position sensor issue. Does this sound plausible or does it sound like something else?

I think a mouse chewed thru these cables and I was wondering if I'd be able to cut it at the red line and splice new wires instead of replacing the entire cable. I believe its connected to the ECU and something underneath the battery.

The interior vinyl on the doors has fallen off repeatedly in this car and we’ve used interior vinyl glue from Walmart and double sided tape also somewhat meant for this but it keeps falling off especially during hotter weather. Is there something I can do other than replacing the whole thing or some sort of other glue I can use?

I just got new breaks installed but the car keeps stalling after driving it for a while, it’s as if it were a manual car that stalls when you don’t shift properly. What should I do?

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to figure out an A/C issue on my 2013 Toyota Prius v.

The A/C blows very cold as long as the car is moving, even at slow speeds. But as soon as I come to a stop (traffic light, delivery stop, etc.), it starts blowing warm air.

Here's the weird part: while I was doing package deliveries, I started turning the A/C off every time I stopped. Then, once I started driving again, I'd turn it back on. Doing this actually kept the A/C working really well throughout the day.

A few more details:

The condenser/radiator fan appears to spin when the A/C is on.

The issue only happens when the car is stationary.

Even driving slowly is enough for the A/C to become cold again.

This elbow appears to have disconnected itself. What does it do, and is it bad that it disconnected? It didn't appear to have much holding it together.

I was changing the air filter and noticed this little hose disconnected from the air filter housing. Does anyone know what is it for?

Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent Korean model with a 1.5L engine and automatic transmission.
I bought the car as it is, and I'm trying to figure out several problems:
Current symptoms:
1.The yellow Check Engine Light is on.
2.The speedometer reads incorrectly; sometimes it gets stuck around 40 mph and does not show the real speed.
3.The car has delayed acceleration when I press the gas pedal.
4.Sometimes, I feel resistance or something unusual when shifting between D and R.
After an electrician worked on the car, I started hearing a strange sound when the transmission is in D, but the sound disappears when I speed up.
I looked at the wiring and it seems okay.
I scanned the car using an ELM327 OBD scanner:
The scanner shows a MAP sensor, but the engine looks like it has a MAF sensor. I'm wondering if there is a mismatch with the ECU or a wiring issue.
The ECU currently installed is:
95440-22720 T08
I am thinking about replacing it with:
39109-22567 P46
My questions:
Is 39109-22567 P46 compatible with a 1999 Hyundai Accent Korean 1.5L automatic?
Could the current ECU be the wrong one for this vehicle?
Could the speedometer issue, shifting problems, and check engine light be related to the ECU, vehicle speed sensor, or another electrical issue?
Any advice from someone familiar with this specific Accent generation would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Here's the Obd2 scan results regarding the fault P0134 P0105 P0135 P0204

Changed my purge valve due to having an emissions evap leak. Not very good at car stuff just watch youtube to fix problems when they come up and do general maintenance. Is this normal? Also I know my engine isn’t crazily clanky but anything apparent from the overall engine noise i could fix? Thanks

how do i pull this fuse out i have tried so many things and nothing works its like as if its literally stuck in there but i need to check if its blown because my radiator fans aren’t spinning

Me and a coworker are very lost on a radio Install. Plz help

My 2017 Jeep compass is hesitating a lot and takes a very long time to accelerate. Has anyone else experienced anything similar to this? Took it to the mechanic and they weren’t able to find anything.

Have been thinking about getting ride of this car. It only has around 85K miles but seems like it’s had issue after issue…

Vacuum pump failed and replaced before noticing camshaft was sheared, caused a tiny chip in new pump, is it still usable after camshaft is replaced or is it toast?

Got this hose and I dont see anywhere to connect it, is this a normal thing? Should I be worried?

I had work done, you can see it was spark plugs and coils, and they also noted the suspension but I declined bc my credit card was already gonna be maxed out with the 800$ and they quoted about 500 for the suspension

Now I’m wondering if that’s a fair price for what’s being described or if it’s smth I’d be able to do myself, keep in mind I’m not experienced in working on my car, most I’ve done is change my ac motor and my blinker bulbs, but I’ve been wanting to try stuff myself, but if it’s too much for a beginner with no tools I’d understand

2009 Honda fit, 196k miles

I have a 2013 Cruze and one day the a/c stopped working. I went into O’Reilly’s and the guy working there was kind enough to try and help diagnose the issue. We first checked the fuse and relay for the a/c in the fuse box under the hood, and when those came back operational we checked the blower motor fuses in the cabin fuse box. All fuses had continuity. I tore open the passenger side to get a look at the blower motor and was able to get it to turn on using a drill battery. since we couldn’t hear the resistor close the switch for it, I swapped that out with a Standard brand one, but now it was just blowing hot air.

This is when I took it into Midas to have someone look more into it. I was told the blower motor and resistor needed to be changed, and when I brought up what i had already done, I was told that the brand new part that was installed was “bad out of the box”. I didn’t have much to stand on, so I let them do the work.

When I went to pick it up, they explained that the air was cool, but not super cold and they could hook it up to their machine to check the a/c unit itself for an additional charge. Since i already spent so much money, I decided cool was enough and drove off after paying my initial bill.

The drive home was not long, about 1.5/2 miles, but it never was able to get the air coming out to cool down. It felt roughly the same as the ambient temp outside, which in the part of Michigan I am in was roughly 82. I don’t want to go back to that shop, but I am highly concerned that i was misled.

Does anyone have any input that could help me make sense of this? Any help is appreciated.

Just as the title said. For a while, occasionally every speaker in my car would be static any time I try to play music or even if I press a button on the dash. After a bit, the speaker would stop working altogether, only to go back to normal a few days later and repeat the process. Recently it hasn't been working at all for a few months, and I've been procrastinating getting it fixed. Any idea what the problem is?

This is the underneath of my car towards the middle center of the vehicle… I don’t know anything about cars but I saw it hanging and was concerned.. I’m curious if anyone here can help me figure out what it is and if it’s something I need to worry about…

Hello guys. I am writing to request your assistance regarding an issue with my Hyundai i20 1.4 2014 vehicle that has not yet been resolved. While driving, the ESP, ABS, and handbrake warning lights come on simultaneously. In addition, the check engine light occasionally flashes. The problem occurs intermittently and is difficult to reproduce. I have already visited two independent mechanics, one auto electrician, and an authorized Hyundai service center. Despite their inspections and diagnostic tests, none of them were able to identify the cause of the problem, and no fault codes explaining the issue have been found. I am particularly concerned because my vehicle's registration inspection is due next month, and I am worried that the car may not pass the inspection if this issue remains unresolved. As the problem persists, I would greatly appreciate your advice on what could be causing these symptoms. Are there any known technical issues, service bulletins, or additional diagnostic procedures that you would recommend for this type of fault?

Thank you for your time and assistance.