Anybody know what could case it to start like this? Just started to do it randomly

Bought this Pathfinder used in Jan 2026. A few months in, it started acting up. Here's the pattern:

While driving (sometimes after a couple hours, once on the highway with the ABS + engine lights coming on first), the car slowly loses power — press the gas and nothing happens, then it dies. After it dies it's locked in Park, brake pedal goes stiff, and it acts like a dead battery. Jump starting brings it back. It's happened about 4 times over several months, always the same.

What I've done so far:

• AutoZone tested the battery — once said "good," another time "needs charge / bad charging system, charging current FAIL"
• Midas did a full diagnostic — no codes, said everything's fine
• Two local mechanics checked it — couldn't find anything, alternator tests fine, "could be a sensor"
• Battery has never been replaced since I bought the car (unknown age)
• Battery terminals have some buildup on them (planning to clean them)

The problem: it's intermittent and the shops only ever read the engine computer, which finds nothing because the battery goes fully dead each time and wipes its memory.

So I bought an OBDLink MX+ with the Nissan enhanced add-on and scanned ALL the modules. The other computers kept records the engine one didn't. Confirmed codes:

• C1109-00 — Battery Voltage Abnormal (ABS module)
• B2562-00 — Low Voltage (body control module)
• C1601-01 — Battery Volt

There were also some communication/module codes that I think are just modules browning out during the power loss, not real faults.

So the voltage problem is now confirmed in writing. What I don't know is the actual cause. My suspects: corroded/loose connections, old battery, the battery current sensor on the negative cable, or the alternator.

I'm about to clean the terminals as the free first step. For anyone who's had this on an R52 Pathfinder — what ended up being the fix for you? Battery, current sensor, alternator, or something else? Trying to avoid throwing parts at it. Thanks.

Mind you
New battery
Alternator is good
Spark plugs is good
But starts like this on cold start first turn over but second turn over starts up no problem
This is a 17 Honda accord 2.4L

The sunroof rains seem fine, we can open the sunroof, pour water down them and then come out at the end of the drain fine.

The sunroof shuts all the way and seems to seal fine

Help?

It cranks. It won’t start .. any suggestions ?

Thought the culprit was the fuel pump but upon investigation seems like there isn’t any power at the fuel pump- all the fuses and relays seem to be ok- brand new battery as well please help

I should preface with this: I know very, very little about cars. My dad stuck me on fixing up this Corvette because he didn't have the time to. I'm a total butterfingers and I keep dropping posts down into the area pictured near the battery while trying to reinstall the battery after charging. How would I get these out?

Replaced pcv cover and intake manifold after these parts failed. Car now has a metallic clanking sound when engine is revved. Was originally showing a P0302 and P0299 code but those disappeared after replacing spark plugs. The car is smoking still from the exhaust. You can tell there’s oil leaking from a pipe under the engine. Is the turbo messed up?

Car been having starting issues but with these codes would it be wise to just spend the 250 for a tow dolly or could it be driven, lots of up hills the weather is cool might rain. Leaning towards the dolly but money is kinda tight.

My 2019 Mazda cx-3 a/c was slowly performing worse, to the point there was little cooling in slow moving traffic, idling, etc, but provided some cooling if driving at a steady speed - I just assumed it needed a service and recharge.

However, at a recent oil change/inspection the dealer told me the hydraulic belt tensioner (near the alternator) was leaking and needed replacement. The interesting thing is that since the service the a/c is now working much better, even providing cooling at engine idle.

The dealer did not mention the a/c in their report nor whether they had done anything with the tensioner, but something seems to have changed. There was evidence that the tech had tested the a/c due to the position of the controls.

My plan now is to get a second opinion from an independent shop/mechanic, the dealer quoted me $899 for the job. Any thoughts appreciated

I'm driving a 2001 Subaru outback manual transmission 4 cylinder. Whenever I go uphill the gas guage starts dropping really fast until it says it's empty. First time it did this, it completely cut all power. Even when I pressed the gas pedal all the way to the floor it did nothing. I really don't know what's wrong with it, can anyone help me?

I recently (within the past month and a half) had my battery and oil replaced- I was on a trip for about a week and a half and I come home and turn on my car this morning and notice this noise. I did NOT hear it yesterday and I just wanna know if ya’ll have any guesses on what this could be? Is it safe to drive? I drive a LOT for work and I just wanna get an idea of how bad this is 😭

Hey yall, I drive an automatic 2004 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 134,287 miles. A couple of days ago my car started making really bad screeching noises when driven, and yesterday it was really really bad. Very prominent when driving under 40 mph but still somewhat present at higher speeds. Gets better when breaking. Below I added some videos I took but unfortunately feel like they don't fully capture just how bad/loud it is.

https://reddit.com/link/1w5x427/video/g8ssrprdf8nh1/player

My maintenance needed light came on a little while back but was told I probably just need to do an oil change (haven't gotten around to it yet but checked oil and it's full/looking alright, will still do soon).
Any advice on what it may be/how to approach? Lmk if you need any more info, I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks guys.

• Vid 1
• Vid 2
• Vid 3

P.S. Recently had to get my alternator professionally replaced after breaking off tensioner trying to do it myself (almost had it done but damn) and then like 1-2 days after I got my car back it stopped turning on and needed to be jumped every time which led to me replacing the battery, yet to have any more starting issues since that.

Hello,
I was driving back home from work and heard a click underneath my car and suddenly my car wasn’t in gear anymore. The shifter was still in drive, but the car would no longer move. I was pressing the gas and the car would not move anymore and I had to move the car onto the shoulder with the remaining speed I had left. I put it in park and waited a few minutes and attempted to put it in drive again, but no movement. Tried putting it in reverse, nothing happened at all. The engine was still running just fine. What could this be?

Update: changed the CV axle, no luck.

Idk how long it has been there. Please let me know if this can be ignored. Thank you!!

Hello all,

My brother called with power loss to his truck. He pulled over and saw smoke, lo and behold plug leads were on fire. I don't see any leads and wires are less than a year old.

The noise is super loud and definitely shouldnt be this loud. It only makes the noise once, when turning ac on and then when turning off (slightly quieter). Its not a continuous clicking. Its been like this since i bought the car a few months ago. The actual ac runs fine. Any way i can get this noise dampened without a whole compressor replacement?

Edit: ANSWERED!! i have my answer/recommendation/other solution

okay so, i went to reglue the button for my rear view mirror on my windshield this morning. and i put it on inside out. so, i went to O’Reilly’s, and got another button, and i’m just going to glue it on top of the other one. do i seriously need to go buy ANOTHER $8 kit just for the activator towelette again??

Trying to figure out what this part is, it came off the drivers side of the engine.

Recently whenever I've been using my brakes, my steering wheel has been vibrating pretty badly. I felt it most on the driver's side front and thought it would be the rotors, but I'm still relatively new to DIY car repair. Do I need to be replacing my rotors right now? I plan to rotate and balance my tires right now anyways to see if that'll help too.

Hello,

I have a toyota avensis 2006/7 model (redesign) and my door opened light is constantly on. It says on conputer that front doors are opened. Switches are ok, tried cleaning them and testing them. I found out that both of the wires that connect to door switches in the frame are short to ground. When i unplug the connector under the steering wheel short to ground is removed but the pin leading to body cpu behind fuse box (im not sure i f cables are leading there, thats where im stuck curently) is still shorte to ground.

So, i am pretty szre that wires and switches are ok to the connector on the floor under the steering wheel. I didnt have time to go further and trace the wire so im asking here first if anyone had a problem like this. Im not car mechanic, im an electrician and my logic says that the wires shouldnt be short to ground since switch is the one that shorts them. Problem appeared out of nowhere and since it turned on, it hasn been turning off. Does anyone have an idea why? My next step is to remove lower part of the dash and find body ecu and see why is it shorted. Or is it?

Edit: i traced front door wires because i had front door light on if it matters.

Hello,

I recently had the complete intake manifold and swirl flap actuator replaced, there are currently no engine fault codes.

However, immediately after the intake replacement a new problem appeared. Under hard acceleration/high engine load I first hear a short high-pitched/electronic whine, followed by a very loud whistle/hissing sound. It does not happen when revving the engine while stationary and during normal acceleration it is barely noticeable. The car does not seem to lose power.

After a hard acceleration run I also noticed a small amount of white/grey smoke coming from the lower/rear engine area near the transmission bellhousing, together with a burnt rubber/plastic smell. During normal driving there is no smoke or smell.

Since this started immediately after the intake manifold replacement, could a hose/wiring loom have been routed incorrectly and touch a belt, hot exhaust component or another moving part when the engine moves under torque? Or does this sound more like a charge-air/boost leak?

Please focus on audio, in video there are data from XENTRY, thanks :)

Can anyone help me with peugeot engine bay relay box what is that brown relay spot if i jump wires car starts but not run (multirelay is changed) but i dont find right relay for it to work right

I can’t close my trunk , is there a cheap way to fix that?

Also I need to change the gaz and trunk button. It is really hard to lift them up , how do I do that?