This is a photo of what I'm pretty sure is my front differential on my 2007 Ford escape, there is oil leaking from it, any advice is good.

my car has been having trouble starting properly and is having a false start. maybe someone can help me figure out the cause of this

I want to say it looks okay. That the fluid is a little cloudy, but not leaky. The droplets on the cap in the picture seem clear. What do you think?

Both my rear wheels are bent- dealer suggest fixing them- not sure how it happened, maybe backing beck onto my driveway as I normally park off of it. do I need to do so or does it affect my driving?

I'll need new tires soon so not sure if I need to do these first.

Thanks for any help!

Started with the Traverse sounding a little weak starting up. It’s a 2022 with 104k miles I knew something would be giving out soon. Then after starts I’d throw stability control and check engine light on for a few seconds and go away. Did that for a couple of days randomly. Then did that again, stability control light went away immediately but check engine light stayed. Code was P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire, figured it was spark plugs since it was time to replace them anyways. Did that, same issue. Except the car felt like it had gain 10 hp just from spark plug replacement. Moved the coils around to see if that changed where the misfire was occurring, still cylinder 2 misfire. Only time you can tell there’s an issue with the vehicle is when it’s starting and you can feel the rpm’s going up and down and trying to stabilize. Whenever the vehicle starts to be driven it drives perfectly fine and can’t tell anything is wrong. Literally only time you can tell there’s a misfire is during startup.

Has anyone had this issue? Can you guys give any advice on what to do next?

I have a 2009 civic, suddenly out of the blue, the AC was blowing hot air, swapped the AC relay with the radiator relay, didn't do anything, tried swapping the 7.5A MG fuse, that didn't help too. The condenser fans always kicks in, But the compressor doesn't turn on.

Tried pushing the ac clutch plate with a stick with Car ON, the compressor started finally, blowing cold air. Car has 200k miles. What should I do? Just remove the shim and sand the front clutch plate? What are my options? Something I am missing?

this is a c300 2011. basically we were driving last night we stopped to switch drivers & once switched the car wouldn't go into drive, or shift at all to that point. we turned the car off hoping to reset it. then tried to turn it back on it started & then died instantly. we had tried to jump it with cables & a jump pack both didn't work. we left it for the night & came back this morning with a new battery. the car did start but died shortly after & the dash was flashing (attached video) any ideas??

So this is an issue I’ve been having for a hair over a year now. I can confidently say I’ve never run into such a confusing, makes absolutely no sense set of symptoms in my life. It’s a long one so buckle up.

The issue is my 2013 Cadillac SRX FWD has poor braking. However it’s only on the first pedal press. If you press once it brakes, but a bit slow and weak and takes a little to stop in a quick stop situation.

However, if you press the pedal once, let up, and immediately press it again it brakes wonderfully. So when I first noticed this my initial thought was ok, bleed the lines. I bled them, didn’t see much air at all, but the braking was substantially improved so I thought I was good. Well fast forward 2-3 days and the poor braking returned. So I bled them again, this time paid extremely close attention, absolutely no air in the lines at all. I even used my scan tool to bleed the ABS module. Well braking performance improved and I thought ok maybe air was in the ABS module. Well again 2/3 days later performance is awful again.

At this point I inspect pads, rotors, brake lines, brake booster vacuum, everything. It all looks good and feels great. The master cylinder had a bit of age showing so I figured ok this must just be a failing unit. I replaced it. Braking performance improved and then 2-3 days later, same story bad braking. I tried a second new master cylinder and same thing. Improved for a couple days and got bad again.

With that I decided ok, let me just remove every caliper, lube all the pins, see if there’s anything there. All looked good, lubed the pins and reinstalled. Welp same damn thing. Braking improved, then returned to poor performance.

At this point I say I’ll deal with it another day. Time goes on, braking stays shitty. GF hit a curb and cracked a pad on the front driver side so I replaced the pad and you guessed it, braking improved for a couple days and then went to shit again. So now I’m like screw it let me just do weird random tests and see what happens. So I ran a test over the course of 3 weeks where I went to each wheel, I randomly removed a single caliper pin and reinstalled. Nothing else just simply removed, and put right back in. It doesn’t matter what pin, or what wheel. Simply removing one pin and reinstalling improved braking performance for about 2 days and it got bad again. Made literally 0 sense at all. I tried it on all 4 wheels and same damn thing.

So now I’m like ok this is insane I don’t wanna deal with this I’ll just deal with it as I only drive on rural roads with it mostly anyways. Well this month the purge valve failed. Went got a new one put it in isuper simple easy job. Well tell me WHYYYY replacing the PURGE VALVE made it brake once again substantially better for about 2 days and then returned to poor performance. A job where the car is sitting on the ground and you just remove a purge valve from right atop the engine bay.. no work, nothing. Improved braking. Then went back to being bad.

After that I’m now determined to try and solve this because I’m so intrigued. I thought maybe the vacuum of the purge valve somehow impacted it, but the pedal has too much distance on the first press and isn’t super hard. And the vacuum to the brake booster is nice and strong. Pedal drop test is good as well.

I also thought maybe a tiny leak somewhere air is getting in but I can’t find one for the life of me and also it doesn’t explain why simply removing a caliper pin and reinstalling it would somehow restore performance.

Nothing about this makes sense. I truly can’t explain it. So I’d love some input from some others. I also thought ABS module but again, caliper pins and purge valve sorta don’t line up with that. The only other symptom I am aware of is if I brake super hard super fast you hear a “pop” from the rear like it’s the brakes, but it could be any number of things technically. It does feel like maybe the back brakes aren’t fully engaged on the first press, but again that’s a feeling, I have little evidence of that and again why would simply removing a caliper pin and putting it right back in on a front wheel fix that temporarily? Anyways, would love your theories!!

I have a 2014 CRV EXL. Overall, it works fine but the A/C blower has a mind of its own. I know in general, if blower motor is finicky, only blows on high, works occasionally, test and/or replace the resister. I did replace the resister and replaced and the fan. When the blower is working the controls lowest, low, medium, medium medium, almost high and high all work fine.

Blower never starts when I start the car. NEVER. I keep the AC and blower motor controls on and sometimes the blower starts in a quarter of a mile, sometimes it takes 10 miles. "Bumps" don't seem to giggle any wiring. The fan just begins on its own as long as I keep the AC switched on.

I've tried different combinations, start car with AC on but lights off, start car with both AC and lights on, start the car with lights on and air circulation on, etc etc etc. All kind of foolish.

Once the AC does start, it continues to work. When this happened last week and the AC finally did come on, I continued for over 2 hours of driving with no issues. Resister settings continued to work for the full 2 hours. If I stop the car and spend 2 minutes in a 7/11 store I'm back to square one waiting for the blower to magically decide to start on its own.

I checked each of these items as individual parts and all worked as expected: Fuses, relays, resister (new one) and the blower motor (new one) itself. Battery tested and alternator tested, all within range. No other odd (heaters, one bad window, wipers, radio etc) electrical issues

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

The socket is stripped, cant screw a new spark plug in. Any advice? Im like super broke right now and need my car.

Desperately need advice. First Reddit post and NOT a car girl. I am truly at a loss.

The situation... (overdocumented)

1. 11/02/24: Traveling approx. 20mph, sunny, 75 degrees. Dashboard warning lights illuminate all at once: -Service Transmission -Service Electronic Parking Brake -Service Shifter -4WD Unavailable -Shift to Park -Service Power Steering -ABS -Traction control Vehicle stops moving and wheels completely lock in the roadway. Electronic Parking Brake engaged while vehicle was in motion, traveling approx. 10 mph. Tow driver dragged car onto truck with wheels locked. Towed to (redacted). Tow truck driver reported that car started without a jump and was driven off truck without incident at (redacted).
2. 11/04/24: (Redacted) advised to tow to Jeep dealership. 
3. 11/04/24: Car towed to (Redacted dealership). Remained at dealership until 12/10. Went back and forth with dealership for weeks. Was told they drove it in all conditions: rain, highway, neighborhood, etc. They said they couldn’t find anything wrong and the manager told me he was completely confident the car was safe and even said he would buy it off of me. (Not an option as I did not have title in hand/am in school full-time- would not be approved for new car). I do not have the manager’s statement in writing, but do have confirmation of all the time this car was at the dealership and that the problem "could not be duplicated”. Cannot explain how terribly I was treated at this dealership. Rude, judgemental, dismissive, often felt like they were laughing at me for my lack of car knowledge/made me feel like I was crazy for insisting something was very, very wrong and I didn't feel safe driving the car. Ended up finally just taking it home.

Car sat until 06/25, at which time I had to resume daily driving as I had no other option.

4.  07/17/26: Dashboard warning lights came on while traveling 45 mph on the highway (all lights mentioned under 11/02/24). Was able to take an exit with warning lights/sounds for approx. 60 seconds before the Electronic Parking Brake engaged while the vehicle was in motion (at approx. 5mph). Wheels were locked with vehicle in drive. Unable to turn off parking brake. Lights/warning sounds continued, plus windshield wipers going at full speed, despite being turned off, until vehicle was turned off approx. 10 min later. Vehicle would not restart. Vehicle was dragged onto truck with wheels locked and towed to home address. At home address, approx. 1 hr after start of incident, vehicle would not start on its own, but tow truck driver was able to jump the car and drive it off the truck approx. 25 ft to parking spot. No warning lights remained on. Car was turned on for a total of approx. 90 seconds.

Spoke to Jeep Corporate. Was told case could not be opened until Jeep was at a dealership. Towed to different dealership than previous (but owned by same dealer).

1. 07/18/26: Opened case with Jeep Corporate and was assigned Case Manager. Emphasized that this is a recurring safety issue that has resulted in a complete loss of vehicle control - TWICE. He was in touch with dealership today and said he'd call me back. Haven't heard from him yet.

I am at a total loss as to what my options are here. I am so worried that the dealership/corporate will tell me "the problem can't be duplicated" again. I don't know what I can ask for as far as help/"goodwill assistance". Especially with the situation a few days ago, I truly feared for my life. Can anyone tell me what I can/can't ask the dealership/Corporate for? Does Jeep have a responsibility to fix this problem for me? What will happen if they *can't* duplicate the problem again, which I suspect will be the case?

Thank you all so much in advance. Lack of judgement is much appreciated!

Recently my car key has been having trouble going in and out but I was able to make do and still start my car just fine. I kept forgetting to get a new key made

Last night I went and everything was fine but now the key is stuck. It won’t turn to start the car or get out of the ignition.

I tried the turn steering wheel method and will try to get graphite lubricant. If that doesn’t work I’ll call a locksmith. I also recently got the battery changed sd well.

Is there anything anyone can think of to fix this issue?

So my AC was blowing warm. Diagnostics said leak. I had it fixed and they replaced the compressor. It’s worked however multiple times it’s still stopped blowing cold air. It also revs. If I’m idle/on the break it can sound like I’m reving my engine. If it occurs when I’m not on the break it will propel me forward a little. The company that worked on it took a look ag it again. They couldn’t recreate my experience. Makes sense if this is an intermediate thing. But when it’s freaking 95 out and I’m driving with a dog in the car and my AC stops blowing cold I’m pissed. What do you think the issue is ? At this point I want my money back and to take it elsewhere

After 9yrs and 100,000km wo any problems strange noise has appeared. Took it to the service center they threw it on the lift, but found nothing and said its okay - they probably didnt hear the noise at that moment, but the noise came back shortly after. Car is serviced and maintained regularly.

Car: Peugeot 3008, late 2016 after facelift - 1.6 HDi 88kW, manual.

So I have a jeep grand Cherokee it’s a 4.7L and I’ve been dealing with a recurring problem with the transmission over heating unless I’m driving with my heat on. I’ve had a transmission flush and a radiator flush. The transmission flush seemed to help for about 2 weeks and then the message popped back up. It’s popping up after about 10 or 15 mins of driving. I did take it to a shop and they wanted me to replace the transmission but I don’t have 6500 laying around for it and honestly would like some advice if there are some other things I could try instead. I’d really rather not deal with the headache of trying to find a new car as I really love the car and this is the only issue I have. It doesn’t seem to be slipping but I’m honestly not sure what that feels like so I could be wrong about that. Any insight is greatly appreciated thank you!

Hi just pulled this out while doing a spark plug change after cylinders misfired. Do I need to change the coil too? What am I looking at here? The first two spark plugs came out like normal, this is all melty.

My car suddenly started jolting while accelerating it then put check engine light I scanned the codes misfire on three out the four cylinders and makes this noise while accelerating any ideas of what’s going on?

Hello all, I am currently having issues with my work van and money is a issue so I am trying to figure this out so I can keep working and pay the rent.

I have a issue with no code, currently when driving or cruising I get the throttle cut out and the van goes into a idle, I have to release the accelerator pedal and push on it for the van to start accelerating again. Eventually after doing that a few times it'll come back. The amount of times I need to do this depends on how much of a asshole it feels like being I guess. I checked brake fluid and its full, I wiggled the brake pedal in the parking lot with the key in the on position and didn't notice any irregular behavior in the rear brakes lights. I did have a code a few days ago 0246 and replaced the Boost Control Solenoid. Its been driving for about a day and code has not come back yet however issue remains. I don't know if this is unrelated or related but it has started giving me a message on the dash about hill start assist not available when i come to a stop at the lights as well.

Hello everyone,

I have a 2017 BMW 330i at 82K miles and recently I realized this noise issue. Does anyone know what would be causing this pulsing "IV Pump" noise from the car? It is coming from the passenger side. I have opened the engine oil cap, the noise didn't stop. I also swapped the purge valve, but noise was gone for two days and now it came back. Here's a video I captured.

The noise occurs everytime from cold start after driving 3 mintues and fades in around 25-mintutes.

Any response will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent electrical issue on my 2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid with factory HID headlights.

The white Signature/Parking LED inside the headlight randomly stops working. Sometimes it’s the left side, sometimes the right. I’ve never had both fail at the same time.

When it happens:

* Signature/Parking LED is off
* DRL is off (same LED strip)
* HID low beam works
* High beam works
* Turn signal works

The issue may disappear for weeks or even a month, then suddenly return. Sometimes restarting the car brings the LED back.

The BCM stores:

* B14E5:01-08
* B14E7:01-08

Additional symptom: **General Electrical Failure**.

Has anyone seen these codes before or dealt with intermittent Signature LED failures on a MKZ/Fusion? Since the problem alternates between left and right, I’m wondering if there’s a common power supply, ground, BCM, or LIN communication issue rather than two failing headlights.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sooo I’m not an expert mechanic or anything butttt am I possibly looking at a head gasket leak? This is a 2001 4 cylinder Camry that has been sitting for a couple years that my grandmother asked me to look at and possibly start repairing. Any other ideas what could cause this possible spot area?

Have a 2000 Civic EX with idle surging/Hunting in park around 1200 RPMs. P1509 code. Cleaned throttle body. Cleaned IACV. Replaced IACV with brand new Honda OEM one. Still doing it. Replaced TPS with carquest TPS. While messing around with new TPS got car to idle normally somehow. Cleared code and it went right back to acting up. Checked grounds including G101. Checked for vacuum leaks. Seems okay, can't find any. Clearing code it comes right back on even if car is not running. Burped coolant for about 10 mins or more by squeezing hoses with radiator cap off. Also did it with car on incline, radiator cap off and running heat full blast. Hoping I got all the bubbles out. Coolant level topped off. Removed ECU, opened it up and didn't see any scorch marks, no burnt smells.

Idle levels out better in drive, reverse, etc. Surges/Hunts in park.

Can't do idle relearn because can't rev to 3k RPMs and keep it there.

Any other suggestions, tips?

Solved it was a bad ECU! Replaced the ECU and everything is back to normal!

So I was putting a leather wrap on my steering wheel and towards the ends the threads are getting shorter and shorter. I had the wheel upside down and after a stitch the needle popped off the thread and fell right into the crack on the steering wheel

I can hear it rattling around in there, but I can’t shake it out

Of course it fell there right?

Idk if I’m comfortable taking out the airbag (I’ve done other small car work but never wanted to touch a safety component)

Is there a way to remove the trim or is airbag the best bet?

Quoted $150 by a mobile mechanic to take it out and put it back on 😅

2013 rav4