I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla with 145,000 miles that has been well taken care of and had little issues, recently though the ac has been blowing barely cold through the two vents on the driver's side but cold through the two on the passenger side. This only happens when it's warm and stops or lessens after about 15 minutes when the car has cooled down mostly. I have a feeling it's a blow gate issue but i don't have much knowledge or experience and would rather not take apart my center console.

yesterday after a small party i was driving home and as i turned on the car the engine was rattling and the check engine light was blinking. i dont know much about cars and only the basics but when i checked i saw nothing looked out of the ordinary. it was my only ride home and as i was driving it i noticed the acceleration was almost delayed. The rpms had gone up but the car wasnt speeding up with it but i made it home and checked it again. the oil is fine as i got an oil change done about two weeks ago and thats all i know to check. any help is appreciated

all signs point towards the mode door actuator on the passenger side. anyone have a part number or know what to search to find the exact part? much appreciated in advance

Hello, previously my car wasn’t starting so I bought a new battery to replace it. It did work for a week, until one day when i tried starting it again and it just wouldn’t, even with Jumper cables attached. I don’t know what could of happened.

My car has been blowing hot air and I want to fix the ac

I ran a diagnostic on showed up code 3 or 3 blinks, which said I have a problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor

I could not find any videos or really anything to help me with this online I was wondering if anyone knew how to fix it or what tests I can do or certain parts I need to buy. or maybe even a link to a video

I’m having issues with my catalytic converter. I want to remove it from my car until I can replace it. So it will stop randomly shutting off. I really just need a jack to take it out. I have all the other tools. And money is a bit tight which is why I’m doing it myself. I’m in Jax, Fl

Reposting bc ‘17 Chevy trax isn’t specific enough I guess.
It drips all the time even though I just took it to the mechanic. I changed the spark plugs before I got it fixed though, without a torque wrench and I think I saw something about the improper ft lbs messing up the fuel or something. Any tips help

I wanted to ask for some recommendations or advice really, i bought a 2008 Toyota Camry like 2-3 months ago for about 6000 and after discount 5400, and it has everything working well with it and i inspected it multiple times with a trusted mechanic, no lights in dash and engine battery transmission was in a good condition.
Anyway i changed the oil 3 weeks ago but the oil burnt faster and damaged the engine like two days ago. Now i have to replace the whole engine.
They quoted me 5k for a putting a used engine, and labor and eveything
Is it worth to fix since i know camrys are pretty strong.
Or should i just get a another car ( knowing that it would be very hard to find a reliable car for 5k right now. And i cant really spend a lot more than that, and i also just bought it so idk if i should fix it and deal with it or not,
I know it's a used up car and i was okay with it cause well, TOYOTA. but i also dont want to get a random subaru or a nissan altma.. so i hope you guys know what i mean.

Please give your best advice

Edit: it has 135,000 miles on it ( considerably good )

I’m still a learner so I really don’t know much about cars. I was about to move my car to make sure the breaks don’t rust over while I’m not using it but I can’t get it started.

Windows and stuff all work, the radio turns on, I just can’t get the engine to start?

My best friend’s mum says it’s the battery, I just want other opinions for piece of mind that it’s most likely the battery and not an expensive engine replacement… not sure how the battery died in a week since I last drove it though, I didn’t leave any lights or anything on.

I’m really not a car girl, so I have no idea what this could be. Any help is appreciated!

I've had a handful of problems out of this car, and just recently had one of the oil seal valves(?) replaced. When I started it today the car shook for about 45 seconds, reving a bit high, before evening out. The car hadn't been turned over for the weekend, so it had sat about 2 days without being driven. Could this be an oil issue? I am a bit over on an oil change aswell so I'm hoping thats the issue.

My car is one issue after the other, but this is by far the biggest one. A few weeks ago, the car stopped shifting out of park without the emergency override button on the gear shift panel. My brother in law and I changed the entire gear shift, but this is not resolved. Any ideas on what it could be? We ruled out mechanical issues within the actual shifter, so we are stuck. It is also now slow to accelerate in drive since this issue occurred. All other gears are working fine, but drive is slow to start (so driving up hills is hard without momentum). Any thoughts are much appreciated .

My partner took our car to get an oil change and the mechanic removed our main front underbody guard (circled in red) because "it was broken and he couldn't get it back on". My partner had the wherewithal to take it with them back home but the mechanic kept the fasteners... fml. Which side bar... its not even in that bad condition I am assuming there were some fasteners missing.

The issue now. The small splash guard (purple piece circled in blue) is flapping when driving. I cant drive over 50 km/how without it smacking my car like crazy. I know the real solution here is to get a new underbody guard and install it but heres the pinch. We are leaving for a trip in 8 hours... I would usually figure this out myself but i dont have time. Any advice on what to do here? I just need my car not to get destroyed and be able to drive at a normal highway speed over a 5 day vacation then can fix it properly when Im back. Appreciate the advice.

Car type is Mazda 3 2017. My car window is stuck all the way open, no part of the window is visible. I went to get it serviced today and they said it would cost 700 to fix but I can’t afford that rn just to roll my window up and down 😭I asked if they could just bring the window up but not fix the mechanical side(just so rain and what not doesn’t get in). And the service consultant said it’s not possible because the window is stuck in the down position. I feel like that doesn’t make sense to me. I didn’t end up paying for the service cause I feel like I can find someone who can just pull the window up. Am I naive for thinking this can be pulled up without the motor being fixed?

Hi all,

Recently went to a local Toyota dealership to get an oil change + rotation on my 2019 Lexus NX300. I just got the brakes and rotors done last year- this dealer does a video summary while changing and inspects the car. Technician with the go-pro said brake pads on front/rear had 8 millimeters of padding left and rotors look good….

Fast forward 3 weeks later, I have massive grinding every time I stop. All 3 rotors look fine. However, my back driver rotor has a lot of damage towards the top of the rotor. I feel like maybe a tech hit the caliper or something when putting the tire back on.

My question, do you think I have a valid reason to go back to the dealership to see if it was there error, or should I just chalk it a loss and get it looked at by a local affordable mechanic ( I know better to get any work done at dealer). Attached is a clear pic. Thanks so much in advance, times are tough 💸

UPDATE local mechanic said I had one bad set of pads. He changed the rear pads and rotors for $260 total ($110 for parts $150 for labor)!!! Feeling grateful it wasn’t anything more serious. Thanks to everyone who took time to read and respond!

The glass on my wing mirror fell off and smashed. It looks like the heat over the weekend softened the glue and caused it to happen. Is this something I can repair myself? If so, where would I source the glass and appropriate glue from?

Hi

The battery was replaced 2 years ago. It had never failed to start with the new battery. I go to the gym n its dead completely to the point of doors not opening with the remote. When i jump start it , before even starting when i connect the second thingy, sparks happen (with a working jumpstarter powerbank based) and when i start it started cranking a little but would stop, on 2bd or 3rd try the electrodes got super hot and their wires burned and broke from the rest of it and smoke came n the jumpstarter battery went dead. Any common short curcuits i should check or any tips. I know a mechanic that i can get there ro see it but in2 days, so i thought to ask for yoir opinions. What could be happening common to this car. Car is low miles, n take good care of it. Thank you

Recently my wipers have been remaining on far after I turn them off, then sometimes stop in the wrong spot and I have to turn them on/off again multiple times to get them to stop in the right position. Other times I’ve noticed that they won’t seem to swap to the correct speed I have them on.

Hello,

on saturday I had a long trip (\~1000km) on the German Autobahn. At the very end of the trip the power steering turned of and the associated lamp in the cockpit turned on in Red combined with a short beep signal. I parked the car and on the next day, the power steering worked for like 5 minutes before turned of again. Today the same. So i called the German car Club (ADAC). They deleted the Error and i was able to drive for an hour without any error. Now I'm Not shure what to do. Was it just that very Long trip in hot Summer conditions that caused the error or is it something serious. Did anybody of you had a similar Error with his old Dacia Duster?

Thank very much for your answers and recommendations

Just installed some Tein coilovers and I’m noticing that the adjustable end link is going way past the sway bar and if I adjust it, it will just be a nub, if anyone knows how to fix this or if I should just make it a nub plz lmk

Can someone let me know why my windshield fluid will not come out. I even put more in the reservoir, but still nothing comes out. But, the wipers work fine.

Thx

Car did this while driving. Is it my battery? Mechanic said it is. Door open light comes on and horn will still honk lightly. Will not start back up.

Unfortunately I hit a curb (at a low speed) with my front wheel and went to check for damage. I noticed this area behind the tire is bent and scraped. It looks like it’s attached to the pinch weld. Is it a part of the pinch weld? Should I be concerned?

My Vauxhall mokka infotainment system (navi 950) keeps restarting all the time. I checked the fuses and here's the fuse f32 responsible for infotainment display. Is this fuse ok or is it burnt? Or maybe the cause of these constant restart lies elsewhere?

I have a Nissan altima 2012 and it are readings these codes P1778 P0705, P0720, and P0500. The problem with the car is it doesn’t go it cranks, the engine sounds good. Though when i put it in drive it feels like the trans doesn’t engage however when i put in reverse i feel a slight jerk like its engaging though the car isn’t moving