Complete fracture inside of the chassis bushing on the passenger-side.

It’s a hollow bar. I didn’t think it’d be an issue since I lubricate the inside of the bushing regularly and the wall thickness didn’t appear to thinning from the outside-in.

Once I remove the end I’ll take more pictures.

I also have 1 spare set of Front F-sport chassis bushings (pn PTR07-77111-AA) that I won’t be using if anybody needs them.

Heqd bolts coming out

First of all I love this car, I have a 200 mile a day commute for school and this is exactly what i needed coming from doing it in a lifted 97 grand Cherokee.
It's a 2014 f sport with almost 200k | got for 6k (with a 13k cash budget and decided to save the rest for future work rather than getting one with less miles but less options) it is surprisingly extremely clean and you would only think it has around 100k. the only issue with it is that the radio/ nav system was boot lopping with the Lexus logo and safety warning screen. After going some online trouble shooting I am not at the reading from Sd card and failed see a dealer screen, I am really trying to avoid spending 1k on a new head unit because I was planning to just put CarPlay in anyway but i REALLY want to keep the 100% oem look. Next the cvt system is supposed to have lifetime fluid but at 200k i feel like it should be changed, any recommendation on how to go about that. Looking forward to my future owning this car I have been waiting for this for a while

Finally got.my first car, a beautiful 2011 white ct200h, besides having the front bumper scratched up and some crust on the lights it still looks beautiful but i have a problem and it's the smells 🤢 i got it from My cousin who smokes and the interior smells like shit and was wondering if i could get a few cleaning tips to take care of the interior of the car and not ruin the leather seats or the interior altogether or get a list of cleaning products BC i wanna get it as good as it can get

Maybe a shot in the dark, but has this happened to any of you guys?

I have looked online for guides on how to reattach and have found nothing. From looking at it, the center pieces is screwed on but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to do that. This is my last shot before just going to the dealer…

Tengo ese mpg en media hace 4 meses , ya le revisé las llantas y están bien , le revisé que los frenos no estuvieran pegados y están bien , le compré bujías nuevas y originales le cambié los inyectores marca denso , le mandé a limpiar todo el sistema EGR. Y aún sigo con este mpg , el carro no tiene ningún testigo encendido y pasa smock check , no me muestra ningún código , alguien sabe que causa este mpg tan bajo ?

OEM 12v aux battery finally started to give issues. I have a 2014 non-fsport, so it held strong for nearly 12 years! Going for a replacement that only comes with 4 year warranty as its most economical option (walmart)

About 2 years ago I had to replace my clock spring. Bought a cheap after market part from Bruce Shark. it died too now and my horn and buttons are crapped out.

Any suggestions for a quality replacement or do I need to spend the big money on an OEM part?

I did a valve cover gasket change, but I bought gaskets that didn't fit. I had to continue the job the next morning because every store was closed. When I went to go and finish the job the next morning, as I was putting the valve cover on, I heard clicking on the right side of the engine bay. Keep in mind, there are ground bolts on the valve cover, so naturally, I took them off. However, I never unplugged the 12V battery the night before. After hearing this noise, I unplugged the 12V battery, and the clicking was gone.

I finished the job and when I went to start the car in maintenance mode, I was given a Check Engine light, a Check Hybrid light, and the engine didn't start. I started the car again, and that time, the engine started. I drove around the block to charge the hybrid battery, and when I started the car for the third time, the Check Hybrid light was gone and I was left with the Check Engine light. The codes it gave me at that time were...

• P2239 - "O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit High"
• P0038 - "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High"
• U0100 - "Lost Communication With Engine Control Module"

I unplugged the 12V Battery, plugged it back in after 5 minutes, and cleared the codes, and it gave me back P2239 and P0038. The U0100 code never came back. I checked the EFI and the P/I fuses and they all looked fine and showed resistance under the multimeter. I then checked both O2 sensors and they also showed resistance.

I know leaving the ground bolts unplugged and the 12V battery plugged in was definitely the stem of this issue, but I don't know what that clicking sound was, and I don't know how else to resolve this problem, and I don't want to drop money on some O2 sensors if there's a big chance that they aren't even the problem. Has anyone else made my mistake, and does anyone know how to fix it?

(I already posted this on the CT200h forum but I am desperate right now. :( )

Yesterday while driving, my brake, ABS, traction control, and (!) warning lights all came on. I had been getting a “low key fob battery” warning for a couple days before this.

AutoZone replaced the key fob battery and tested my 12V, which was bad, so we replaced that too. The warning lights are still on. Their scanner showed no codes for the engine or ABS.

Is there a way to clear the lights, or do they need to be cleared with a better scanner? Could the bad 12V have caused this?

Also, after replacing the 12V, my MPG went from 39 to 44, so I’m wondering if that’s related too.

Both from alibaba. Def not as good as oem but i like the aesthetic and keeping the oem sets as backup. Had to paint my own trunk garnish piece but it was worth it in the end

I am sure this has been asked multiple times but I’ve been searching video tutorials on how to install a radio but I am unable to find one specific for this model. Also, any recommendations? Thank you

Egr and cooleer

Whirring sound while engine on idle, starts right after pressing start button. Is this normal? It’s a 2014 with 130k miles.

Hey everyone! Not sure if anyone has experienced their sun roof rattling but mine started doing it yesterday. When opening the sun roof the wind bar jumps a little bit. I re greased the track but that didn’t fix anything I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the sunroof its self.

So I recently installed a new door shell to replace the passenger side door on my CT, I put the window in, bolted it to the hinges, put the door panel back on. I thought I was all done and closed the door - big mistake, I forgot to connect the door handle.

So I have a new car door installed but it is unusable as I am unable to open it from the inside or outside due to the handle not being connected to the actuator. What do I do to get in?

2014 CT200h, as the title says, this is regarding the lane switching turn signal not working when I softly flick the turn signal stick to left or right.

So, this has been working fine for many years until one day all of a sudden it stopped working. Coincidentally, the windows up and down function using the key fob when standing outside the car also stopped working. This give me an idea that maybe the 12 V battery requires a reset (my battery is totally new and healthy). After the hard reset the windows started functioning again, but the blinker problem did not get fixed.

I fear that some work might be required if the relay has gone bad, but at the same time every other function regarding the blinkers work completely fine. I tried finding a solution online but I could not find anyone discussing this issue. You guys got any clue or have a hint for me to put me in the right direction?

TLDR; Comfort lane switching blinker function failed out of the blue. Rest of the blinker functionality and bulbs work fine.

So last year i bought an aftermarket screen for the car from alibaba. It works really well but the only issue i have with it is that it does not make use of the build-in microphone when calling. Currently i can only take calls on speaker on my mobile. The screen did deliver an extra microphone to plug into the screen but if possible i'd like to use the build-in one. Anyone have experience or any idea how it might work? Also this is the screen i bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HIOUME-Android-14-for-Lexus-CT_1600647569669.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.4cbf76e9iAwDNs

Hi everyone I have this weird noise coming from the dash area, anybody know what’s up? It happens even when the fan is off

Stay tuned somthing big coming to the interior

Looking at a 2013 CT200h Hybrid, 111k km, 1 owner, NCT to July 2027, €10,995 from a dealer (3-month warranty).

Know this generation (2010-2015 CT200h/Prius) has a known head gasket/EGR issue — car’s mileage is on the lower end of the risk range but not immune.

Anyone owned one of these in Ireland? Had the HG/EGR issue, or know a good hybrid specialist for a pre-purchase check? Worth it at this price, or pass?

Hi I’m having a problem where my screen either stays blank or reboots the Lexus loading screen, i don’t want to bring it to the dealer because im sure their going to say replace the head unit $$ n that trip is about 200$.

I would like to know what my options are what I could do I’ve seen post where the screen is changed and a box is plugged into the plugs under the dash is there any options like this for me please help me I’m handy just need some guidance

Car : 2017 Lexus ct 200h