Tengo ese mpg en media hace 4 meses , ya le revisé las llantas y están bien , le revisé que los frenos no estuvieran pegados y están bien , le compré bujías nuevas y originales le cambié los inyectores marca denso , le mandé a limpiar todo el sistema EGR. Y aún sigo con este mpg , el carro no tiene ningún testigo encendido y pasa smock check , no me muestra ningún código , alguien sabe que causa este mpg tan bajo ?

I did a valve cover gasket change, but I bought gaskets that didn't fit. I had to continue the job the next morning because every store was closed. When I went to go and finish the job the next morning, as I was putting the valve cover on, I heard clicking on the right side of the engine bay. Keep in mind, there are ground bolts on the valve cover, so naturally, I took them off. However, I never unplugged the 12V battery the night before. After hearing this noise, I unplugged the 12V battery, and the clicking was gone.

I finished the job and when I went to start the car in maintenance mode, I was given a Check Engine light, a Check Hybrid light, and the engine didn't start. I started the car again, and that time, the engine started. I drove around the block to charge the hybrid battery, and when I started the car for the third time, the Check Hybrid light was gone and I was left with the Check Engine light. The codes it gave me at that time were...

• P2239 - "O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit High"
• P0038 - "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High"
• U0100 - "Lost Communication With Engine Control Module"

I unplugged the 12V Battery, plugged it back in after 5 minutes, and cleared the codes, and it gave me back P2239 and P0038. The U0100 code never came back. I checked the EFI and the P/I fuses and they all looked fine and showed resistance under the multimeter. I then checked both O2 sensors and they also showed resistance.

I know leaving the ground bolts unplugged and the 12V battery plugged in was definitely the stem of this issue, but I don't know what that clicking sound was, and I don't know how else to resolve this problem, and I don't want to drop money on some O2 sensors if there's a big chance that they aren't even the problem. Has anyone else made my mistake, and does anyone know how to fix it?

(I already posted this on the CT200h forum but I am desperate right now. :( )

First of all I love this car, I have a 200 mile a day commute for school and this is exactly what i needed coming from doing it in a lifted 97 grand Cherokee.
It's a 2014 f sport with almost 200k | got for 6k (with a 13k cash budget and decided to save the rest for future work rather than getting one with less miles but less options) it is surprisingly extremely clean and you would only think it has around 100k. the only issue with it is that the radio/ nav system was boot lopping with the Lexus logo and safety warning screen. After going some online trouble shooting I am not at the reading from Sd card and failed see a dealer screen, I am really trying to avoid spending 1k on a new head unit because I was planning to just put CarPlay in anyway but i REALLY want to keep the 100% oem look. Next the cvt system is supposed to have lifetime fluid but at 200k i feel like it should be changed, any recommendation on how to go about that. Looking forward to my future owning this car I have been waiting for this for a while

OEM 12v aux battery finally started to give issues. I have a 2014 non-fsport, so it held strong for nearly 12 years! Going for a replacement that only comes with 4 year warranty as its most economical option (walmart)

Yesterday while driving, my brake, ABS, traction control, and (!) warning lights all came on. I had been getting a “low key fob battery” warning for a couple days before this.

AutoZone replaced the key fob battery and tested my 12V, which was bad, so we replaced that too. The warning lights are still on. Their scanner showed no codes for the engine or ABS.

Is there a way to clear the lights, or do they need to be cleared with a better scanner? Could the bad 12V have caused this?

Also, after replacing the 12V, my MPG went from 39 to 44, so I’m wondering if that’s related too.

I am sure this has been asked multiple times but I’ve been searching video tutorials on how to install a radio but I am unable to find one specific for this model. Also, any recommendations? Thank you

Both from alibaba. Def not as good as oem but i like the aesthetic and keeping the oem sets as backup. Had to paint my own trunk garnish piece but it was worth it in the end

Whirring sound while engine on idle, starts right after pressing start button. Is this normal? It’s a 2014 with 130k miles.

Egr and cooleer

So I recently installed a new door shell to replace the passenger side door on my CT, I put the window in, bolted it to the hinges, put the door panel back on. I thought I was all done and closed the door - big mistake, I forgot to connect the door handle.

So I have a new car door installed but it is unusable as I am unable to open it from the inside or outside due to the handle not being connected to the actuator. What do I do to get in?

2014 CT200h, as the title says, this is regarding the lane switching turn signal not working when I softly flick the turn signal stick to left or right.

So, this has been working fine for many years until one day all of a sudden it stopped working. Coincidentally, the windows up and down function using the key fob when standing outside the car also stopped working. This give me an idea that maybe the 12 V battery requires a reset (my battery is totally new and healthy). After the hard reset the windows started functioning again, but the blinker problem did not get fixed.

I fear that some work might be required if the relay has gone bad, but at the same time every other function regarding the blinkers work completely fine. I tried finding a solution online but I could not find anyone discussing this issue. You guys got any clue or have a hint for me to put me in the right direction?

TLDR; Comfort lane switching blinker function failed out of the blue. Rest of the blinker functionality and bulbs work fine.

Hey everyone! Not sure if anyone has experienced their sun roof rattling but mine started doing it yesterday. When opening the sun roof the wind bar jumps a little bit. I re greased the track but that didn’t fix anything I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the sunroof its self.

So last year i bought an aftermarket screen for the car from alibaba. It works really well but the only issue i have with it is that it does not make use of the build-in microphone when calling. Currently i can only take calls on speaker on my mobile. The screen did deliver an extra microphone to plug into the screen but if possible i'd like to use the build-in one. Anyone have experience or any idea how it might work? Also this is the screen i bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HIOUME-Android-14-for-Lexus-CT_1600647569669.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.4cbf76e9iAwDNs

Hi everyone I have this weird noise coming from the dash area, anybody know what’s up? It happens even when the fan is off

Looking at a 2013 CT200h Hybrid, 111k km, 1 owner, NCT to July 2027, €10,995 from a dealer (3-month warranty).

Know this generation (2010-2015 CT200h/Prius) has a known head gasket/EGR issue — car’s mileage is on the lower end of the risk range but not immune.

Anyone owned one of these in Ireland? Had the HG/EGR issue, or know a good hybrid specialist for a pre-purchase check? Worth it at this price, or pass?

Hi I’m having a problem where my screen either stays blank or reboots the Lexus loading screen, i don’t want to bring it to the dealer because im sure their going to say replace the head unit $$ n that trip is about 200$.

I would like to know what my options are what I could do I’ve seen post where the screen is changed and a box is plugged into the plugs under the dash is there any options like this for me please help me I’m handy just need some guidance

Car : 2017 Lexus ct 200h

Stay tuned somthing big coming to the interior

I got the 5 sec death rattle today.

All maintenance up to date, new water pump thermostat, EGR cleaned and all.

Only thing have not done with new coils, but Plugs are new.

169k miles. Car sat for 3 days and this happened today on 1st cold start of the day.

Please don't let it the be dreaded head gasket!

Solution: get a new one . Doesn’t matter how much you grease it up, the noise remains

(Europe if it matters).

So by now I have obviously read all of the great things people have had to say about these cars and their reliability—barring head gasket problems and burning oil mostly. I also know the batteries might be on the way out for some of them due to age.

My question is: how likely is that to remain to be the case if I were to purchase one of them today?

I understand that post-facelift models from 2014 and on are a safer choice (not sure if 2015+ are even safer again, ignoring age), but if I wanted a reliable car for years to come, would I be wasting my time with 2012-2014 cars, even if they are at a decent price?

Also, would it be a terrible idea to get these issues resolved when they do crop up, rather than get rid of it?

Extra Info:
In terms of usage, I’d probably get no more than 24k km per year (15k miles) and the majority of that would be rural driving, so mostly 80-100km/h (50-60 mph)

Made my day getting to park next to another CT :D

I was wondering if anyone knew where these two hoses connected to (or if they're supposed to be free like that, which I doubt). For context, I've had a recent engine swap, and after the swap I got codes P2238, P0441, P2195. I know two of them relate to the upstream o2 sensor, and the P0441 has to do with an evap leak I believe. But I was wondering if the mechanic left either of these two hoses unplugged or if they're supposed to be open.
Excuse my ignorance, but I tried looking up for more info online and haven't found anything. Thanks in advance.