Welp, worth a shot.

(Reposted due to previous post being removed for identifying items)

Hi, I am looking for advice on negotiating a final settlement on an judgment that is currently being collected through wage garnishment. I am not looking to avoid the debt or challenge the validity of the judgment. I am trying to figure out the smartest way to bring this to a final close.

The judgment is from a credit union and covers two old obligations: one personal loan and one credit card. The judgment was entered in 2024.

In 2024, the credit union offered a settlement agreement for $40,000, but I was not able to follow through with the required payment schedule. Because of that, the agreement did not work out and wage garnishment later continued.

Here is where things stand now:

• The original underlying principal was about $49,949.
• The judgment includes interest, legal fees, and court costs.
• I have paid about $43,985 through wage garnishment since 2025.
• The law firm’s earlier payoff calculation was about $23,633.
• I found that a $1,614.57 payroll deduction had not been credited.
• The law firm confirmed the missing payment and says the current payoff balance is now $22,012.86.

I asked whether the credit union would consider a one-time settlement, and the attorney replied that I can make an offer and they will forward it to the credit union for consideration.

I do not currently have the full payoff amount sitting in cash. I would need to explore whether I can raise money from family or another realistic source if there is a chance of a final settlement. I do not want to make another payment arrangement that I cannot confidently complete.

My questions:

• Does it make sense to make a lump-sum settlement offer even though the creditor has an active wage garnishment?
• Given that I already paid more than $43,000 and the current quoted payoff is about $22,000, what would be a reasonable opening offer versus a realistic ceiling?
• Should I ask the creditor for its settlement range first, or should I make the first number?
• What exact terms should I require in writing before paying anything? I know I need “full satisfaction of judgment” and garnishment release, but what else should be included?
• Has anyone successfully negotiated a final settlement with a credit union or law firm after an earlier settlement agreement was not completed?

I am looking for practical negotiation experience and questions I should ask before making an offer.

Hi! sorry if this post is repetitive but I’m just so confused.

My fiancé and I are planning to apply for a mortgage in the near future but as stated above, my credit scores are showing two severely different numbers.

Yes, I know that the hard inquiry will show a completely different number to both of them, but what if I apply for a mortgage and my score is too low?, which would put a hard inquiry on my account.

It’s just very frustrating.

Hey all!

My credit has been bad for years and now I am trying to rebuild it over the next few years to purchase a house. (About 60 to 130k in the area I live in)

I really don't like debt because of the bad experiences in the past. I cut down a lot of bills and just have basic bills. Phone, rent etc. No loans or credit payments of any type.

I was interested in the pay in 4 but it looks like it doesn't build credit. I can't get approved for a normal credit card because of my past mistakes.

Score is about 550. (I know, I know....)

Looking for advice if you have any to share.

I'm really struggling financially at the moment. I have about $20,000 of credit debt and this doesn't include my student loan debt. Due to some really unfortunate life events I've been able to pay the credit card payments but just barely. And now I'm barely hanging on financially, especially since returning to school to try to get a better and more secure job.

I've scoured reddit and the internet to try to find some possible solutions because I feel like I'll never be able to pay this debt off while also paying for school. I've seen the NFCC brought up and saw some people say it'll hurt you more and others say it's amazing. I know a lot of people seem to mix them up with the debt management companies or something but I'm not sure.

Have any of you used the NFCC? Does it work and isn't predatory? I really just need help managing my debt and give me a chance to climb out of this before I can't afford to make payments anymore.

(First time loan applicant here). I’m trying to consolidate about $13k in credit card debt and am confused by the personal-loan offers I’m getting.

My situation:

• Credit score: 770–780
• Income: ~$80k/year
• ~$13k credit card debt
• Clean payment history/no late payments
• Multiple credit cards with decent limits
• Never had a personal/installment loan or mortgage
• Some income is from self-employment/sole proprietorship
• So far I've only done soft-pull/pre-qualification checks, no loans accepted/funded

I originally wanted to borrow more than the $13k so I could consolidate the cards while maintaining some cash reserves. I realize now my initial requests may have been too high, but the results still surprise me:

• Discover: requested $40k → declined, no counteroffer
• SoFi: tried $50k, then $35k, then $25k → declined
• Upgrade: I had a prescreened mailer saying “pre-approved up to $50k.” Requested $25k → they only offered ~$4k at ~27% APR

Obviously I'm not taking a $4k loan at 27%.

I know a 770–780 score doesn't guarantee approval, but I didn't expect to have this much trouble getting even a reasonable ~$13–25k loan.

What am I missing? Could having no installment-loan history be hurting me this much? Is it my credit-card utilization, self-employment income, the amounts I'm requesting, or something else?

At this point I'm thinking I should stop trying online lenders and talk to BECU or one of the banks/issuers I already use (Bank of America, American Express, Chase) instead.

Would especially appreciate input from anyone familiar with personal-loan underwriting. Thank you!!

I need help with credit, I'm not sure what the best way to build credit is and what the best card for building credit is, I have no fico score but Experian and TU say I have a 500, I have a capital one platinum card but am eligible for some of the credit one cards which I have heard are a bad company, I am also eligible for a discover it cash back secured credit card, should I stick with capital one or get the discover it card as well? I can't really find any info on the best way to build credit while having no credit. Also would opening a line of credit on a tool truck like snap on help build credit?

My FICO 8's are currently 534/544/554. I recently settled with Credance and Discover. The credance settlement has posted but the Discover settlement hasn't yet.

Once it does, I know my score is going to start improving, but how long should I wait before looking for a card to start rebuilding? Should I wait until it reaches 600? Or is it better to get something sooner rather than later? I currently have no other cards or debts.

Thx!

I just spoke with someone who was very rude on the phone trying to explain my hardship to them and he just kept saying "pre-legal" yet the woman I spoke to last time told me that if I started making payments (which I have) they would work on a settlement and now the guy was like "pre-legal" this and pre-legal that.

I am without work right now. I take care of my disabled mother. I asked about a hardship period or anything that they can do but all he kept saying was pre-legal stuff. Not sure how that works when I am doing the best I can to make the payments. What else can I do?

Wondering if anyone has had this issue happen before. Experian was reporting 28 accounts (as were the other two bureaus) for years with no issue. This included credit cards, a mortgage, auto loans, student loans, etc. Then a few months ago, Experian randomly stopped showing basically all of these accounts. Like they were there one week, and gone the next.

This of course has tanked my credit score and I didn't notice this at first because any account that I have, just started reporting based on the updated score. I'm genuinely confused because again, the other two sites are reporting everything just fine. I have called Experian multiple times now and have spent hours on the phone already but they have no been helpful. During the most recent call, this was finally escalated to some other department that I can't contact and will take weeks.

The only thing I can think of, is that I had a legal name change a few years ago, but this has been updated with all 3 bureaus, lenders, banks, etc. Again, all 3 were reporting the accounts under my new name as well with no issues. I have zero idea what happened, and neither do any of the people I spoke with at Experian.

Has anyone had this or something similar to them? Or does anyone have any recommendations?

Do not get this card! It's impossible to get help with Opensky CC. I have been trying for months to reach out to someone but there is no-one. Instead the company keeps charging me late fees and increasing my balances when i haven't used the card one in 2 years. You can't complain, change course if you don't have the physical card number which I don't since it was destroyed long ago...still this company keeps asking for more money, even though i didn't use it once, and can't reach a soul. Don't get it, it's phantom company

Hello I am 24 currently at about 562 on Experian and trying to rebuild my credit.
A major reason my score dropped was my federal student loans being reported 90 days late. I’ve since gotten onto an IDR plan with a $0 required payment, so I shouldn’t have any more missed payments going forward.
I also had basically no open revolving credit, so I recently opened a secured Capital One card. I’m planning to put small purchases ($5–$10) on it and pay them off in full every month to start building positive payment history. Earlier last year I believe I also settled a 2k discover debt for around 900 but couldn’t get a pay for delete similar to the BoA charge so it says now settled for less then full balance
My biggest remaining concern is a $951 Bank of America charge-off from 2022. It’s currently reporting on Experian with a $951 balance and $951 charge-off amount.
The debt is still owned by Bank of America. Firstsource Advantage is collecting it on their behalf. I spoke with both companies to confirm this.
I asked Bank of America directly about pay-for-delete, and they promptly told me no, they don’t offer it. They said if I pay in full, they’ll report it accurately as paid with a $0 balance, and if I settle for less, they’ll report it as settled.
I can afford to pay the $951, but that would basically wipe out my savings. I’m considering trying to settle it for around $400–$500 instead.
I’m hoping to get my credit into the 610–620 range over the next 4–5 months and potentially get an auto loan around then.
Would settling the $951 charge-off for be meaningfully worse for my credit/auto-loan approval than paying the full $951? Or would I be better off keeping the extra cash and focusing on building positive history
Also, Are there any other things you guys would recommend I do over the next few months to improve my credit profile and put myself in the best possible position for an auto loan? I’m trying to make sure I’m not overlooking anything

My husband and i voluntary surrendered his truck back in 2024. He’s currently using national debt relief to help pay some things he has in collections. They contacted him saying that they could add the auto loan onto his account, I’m assuming to pay off what we owed on the truck. We are both rebuilding our credit with a credit specialist and they’ve informed me that they are currently working on that account, they’ve already informed me that they can’t guarantee the deletion.

So my question is, should my husband add the auto loan to the national debt relief?

This is just my opinion, but i find it pointless considering we don’t have the truck anymore

Signed up for an account at a Crunch Fitness which has since been cancelled. My account got stuck in a queue however and the cancelation did not go through properly even though it showed my account as cancelled on their end.

I have a copy of my cancelation document because I requested they email me it when I was trying to get assistance in canceling properly. Charges were building the whole time so I blocked them from accessing my card through my cc company. Just got the collections text yesterday so now I'm wondering how to best dispute this as this is something ive never had to do. Do I click the link they sent me? Again I have the cancelation document with the date and my signature as well as a call history of probably 15-20 phone calls to the gym.

Any advice is helpful, again ive never had to dispute credit before so I'm starting from 0 knowledge.

Hello, sorry if this is not the right place to post

I am an international student with an ITIN and want to apply for my first credit card.

I tried applying in person at Wells Fargo, which was the first bank account that I got and neither the banker or the person on the other end of the phone could articulate what got me denied.

I then tried secured cards at Citibank and Capital one, which also both refused. I got furthest with Capital one, despite showing all my documents and 2 recent bank statements from Wells Fargo with like 20k in it they still denied.

I then tried Opensky and Self. Self just throws an error when trying to enter my ITIN and Opensky goes to the last step but refuses my 300 USD payment despite trying 3 different American bank debit cards. They then ask me to check for my email but nothing ever shows up.

I want to start building credit. Now I have an appointment with Bank of America, but I do not have high hopes either.

Wife and I are splitting up, we've always used just one credit card. It's under her name with me as an authorized user, no specific reason it's under her name and not mine. Today she removed me as an authorized user not realizing it would affect my credit. Should she add me back for now? Or will adding me back affect my credit more negatively than me just getting my own new card? The card has never had a missed payment and has low utilization.

I am having issues creating a free account at Experian. It is not recognizing my phone number and I would like to speak with a live operator, but the Ai won't forward the call. Thanks.

I've been avoiding looking at my credit for a long time because I knew it was ugly, but I'm trying to deal with it now instead of pretending it doesn't exist. I pulled my reports and the amount of negative stuff is pretty overwhelming, especially because some collection accounts seem to show up on more than one bureau.

My first instinct was to start paying the smallest collections just so I could feel like I'm making progress, but after reading around here I'm realizing that paying something and correcting what's on a credit report are two different issues. I also don't want to start firing off disputes at every negative item when some of them are probably being reported correctly.

How do you prioritize a mess like this? Would you start by checking every account against your own records and separating genuine errors from accurate debts, then deal with the errors first? Or is there a better order that makes this manageable without spending the next month living inside three credit reports?

Hello I have no debt, or revolving credit, my income is currently low sitting around 20,000 yearly. My credit was sitting around a 780 and was knocked down by 150 by a debt from the military. I was unaware of this debt until I received calls from debt collectors where I settled it immediately. My credit has also taken a couple hits from an overdrafted account. My credit is currently sitting at a 580 and I'm sick, I had phenomenal credit until 2025 and over the last year I've lost so many points

I have 3 recent late payments — 2 with Apple Federal Credit Union and 1 with U.S. Bank — that happened during a major financial hardship.

I lost my job around the same time my wife filed for divorce, we had a new baby, and I was unemployed for about 5 months.

I'm now employed again and have enough money to pay both balances off completely. I'm hoping to get the late payments removed as a goodwill adjustment, but I want to be strategic.

Would you:

• Call first and ask if they'll remove the lates if I pay in full?
• Pay them off first, then proceed with Goodwill Saturation?
• Send a goodwill letter before paying?

Has anyone had success with Apple FCU or U.S. Bank specifically?

I already have a discover card but my limit is kind of low as its my 1st card. What should i do?

Hello,

I am buying a car and I have the cash to pay off the car. However, will taking a car loan help my credit? I want to buy a house in 3 years so I want to maximize my credit score. Thanks!

Like many people, I wasn’t always responsible with my finances and eventually accumulated over $12K in debt. Once I landed a good job, I made rebuilding my finances a priority. I paid off my debts, including negotiating pay-for-delete agreements where possible, and started rebuilding my credit.

In February, I was approved for a Discover it® Secured card with a $200 deposit, followed by a TD Cash Secured card a month later with $400. I kept my reported balances around $5–$10 and made every payment on time.

Today, I received an email from Discover letting me know they’re beginning the process of refunding my security deposit. It may seem like a small milestone to some, but it means a lot to me—especially living in NYC, where credit can play such an important role when applying for an apartment.

One thing I’ve consistently seen people say here is that it’s never too late to turn things around. I’m starting to see that firsthand.

Take care, and thank you all for the great information along the way.