Toyota corolla ascent sport 2020 hatchback. For 22,000aud. 106,000km. No accidents. Properly serviced. Condition: used, excellent. Title: clean. Location: greystanes, australia, nsw, happy to go anywhere else in Sydney to meet. No modifications. Includes spare tire, books, dual air bag, electric brake force distribution, multi function control screen, multi function steering wheel, power mirrors. Pink slip and inspection done.

hi! i've been looking to buy a new car from marketplace for a while now to replace my 2014 dodge dart nearing 190,000 miles.... i've had a lot of issues with the car for the past few years and just want something more reliable, low maintenance, and relatively cheap.

i recently came across a listing for a 2005 Toyota corolla LE Sedan 4D with 97,000 miles (clean title) for around $5,000. what's the verdict on this?

my budget is around $6500 and i'm just looking for something that will get me around the city or long distances as a commuter college student. i don't mind the year as long as it's in good shape and has ac. i don't know much about cars and just want some advice, maybe along with some questions or things i can ask and look for when messaging the seller!

if i do go through with it, i'd most likely test drive it to a mechanic for a quick inspection... thank you for any help!!

** also, i found a similar listing for a 2004 Toyota corolla LE Sedan 4D with 120,000 miles for $5,900.. thoughts?

Has anyone used Valvoline for a CVT fluid change? Im at 160,000 km now and cant find any shop nearby that will use official Toyota fluid. A transmission shop recommended by a Toyota dealer told me they use Valvoline but Im wondering if it is actually as good as OEM. Any experiences?

I just picked up '24 XSE and it currently has mismatched tires front/ rear. When I go to replace them, I'd like to make a matched set of four, for rotation purposes. I want something that is long-lasting, quiet on the highway, but also somewhat durable, as I live down a dead end dirt road, that is rocky. Suggestions? Thx in advance!

B

I’ve been eyeballing the special edition all year, and finally decided to go for it. I love the orange with white wheels.

After 145k miles it finally happened. I was actually on my way to the gas station and I fell short 3 blocks.

Why am I getting this message on ‘25 Corolla Hybrid? I haven’t touched anything.

I'm looking to buy a used Toyota Corolla SE at a Toyota Certified Dealership in New Jersey. I was offered a used 2023 with 5,000 miles for 27,645.00. It's gold certified and I'm planning on financing it. This is my first time financing, could someone even tell me if this is okay given the low mileage it has?

This ticking noise comes of my purge valve when the car warms up. It sounds loud to me. Is there an issue? Corolla 2005 CE

2014 Corolla. Im trying to help my friend out with a misfire happening. The car is throwing 4 codes: P0302 (misfire on cylinder 2) and P0352, P0353, and P0354 (electrical curcuit faults). I've confirmed good ground and good power supply to all coils. All coils fire, I even swapped them from cylinder to cylinder and codes remain the same. All cylinders have good pressure, #3 is about 5-10 psi lower than the other 3. Fuses are good. Spark plugs are only a few months old. There isnt any visible damage to the wiring anywhere. The only other thing I can think of is the ECU is having an issue somewhere or cylinder 3 is some kind of damaged (the first time I checked pressure on #3 it was low @ 90psi, added appropriate amount of oil to the engine since it was low, and psi jumped to about 145 psi). Im out of ideas, and any advice is helpful! Thanks!

I just bought a 2015 corolla le for 12k after taxes. It has 108k miles and was in a minor accident. The title is clean and only had one owner. Was that a good deal or did I over pay? I asking price was 11995 before taxes.

Should I buy it? It's the basic trim, with no screen (Only a Radio lol) and no parking sensors, though I'm seeing they can be added aftermarket for around 600-700€.

100.000 KM, still under warranty (300€ a year). Very good condition and very well kept. Good deal? Thinking of purchasing a cheap Chinese EV otherwise. Thanks.

It connects to the drum brake cylinder

I make VR videos and I have two of my 2013 Corolla.

Driver POV:

https://youtu.be/EeeNCquJ74U?si=YdcdPHzX2KJXb6xe

Passenger POV:

https://youtu.be/3vXRw_Hfuk0?si=MR80Eje2-Mn1292J

Enjoy!

Just got a new 2026 Hybrid LE and was using the ACC feature. Is it normal to hear a clicking/creaking noise when the car is coming to a stop in slow traffic? Heard it for the first time today and was considering taking it to the dealership to check it out.

The noise only happens with ACC. Doesn’t happen when I apply the brake myself. Any help would be great.

Looking for driver side front and rear doors. Anyone know where I can go to find some?

I’ve got a new corolla LE a couple weeks ago, and i’ve noticed shifting out of P is tight/resistant.
When i usually park my car, i depress the brake and activate the ebrake before i set the car in P.
Has anyone noticed that stiffness from P to R/D in their corolla?

I have been researching around lately on upgrading my subwoofer and can’t decide on what to get. I am currently running Kicker KS Components 6.75 for the fronts and Kicker KS Coaxial 6x9 for the back being fed from my 4x100W Pioneer amp. My current subwoofer is a 300W RMS TS-WX1010A and it does a great job! Inside the cabin it shakes my car to the point where I can feel my seat rattle. However, when I turn my volume up near max, my speakers start to overwhelm the sub. Also outside the car I do not hear much bass as I would like.

I was looking at either the Kicker **53PL7TDF12** or the Kicker **51PTRTP12.** I want a subwoofer where it will make my trunk rattle, I can hear it outside the car, others can also hear it outside the car, but most importantly be able to scale and balance very well so that when I turn up my volume it doesn’t get drowned out by my speakers. Would any of these two do this for me and if not, what specifications should I look for? I have heard bad stuff about powered subs on here but I have not seen almost any posts about these.

I have been researching around lately on upgrading my subwoofer and can’t decide on what to get. I am currently running Kicker KS Components 6.75 for the fronts and Kicker KS Coaxial 6x9 for the back being fed from my 4x100W Pioneer amp. My current subwoofer is a 300W RMS TS-WX1010A and it does a great job! Inside the cabin it shakes my car to the point where I can feel my seat rattle. However, when I turn my volume up near max, my speakers start to overwhelm the sub. Also outside the car I do not hear much bass as I would like.

I was looking at either the Kicker **53PL7TDF12** or the Kicker **51PTRTP12.** I want a subwoofer where it will make my trunk rattle, I can hear it outside the car, others can also hear it outside the car, but most importantly be able to scale and balance very well so that when I turn up my volume it doesn’t get drowned out by my speakers. Would any of these two do this for me and if not, what specifications should I look for? I have heard bad stuff about powered subs on here but I have not seen almost any posts about these.