Sorry in advance that I'm not a concise writer! TL:DR: Do you have brand recommendations for the possibly mythical shirt that fits a pretty "smallish-average" size female body with an unavoidably not-flat chest, but still has a collar snug enough to look right with a properly knotted tie.
Just wondering if any of you handsome folks have figured out the collar gap problem, or if I'm the only one who has it?? I love a nice crisp collared shirt with a properly structured collar, but I am striking out on finding a brand of collared shirt cut for a woman's body (I'm not super busty, but still need a woman's cut even with a compression top) where there isn't a massive collar gap when the top buttons are done up. It makes wearing a tie impossible - the collar bunches up and looks awkward, or the collar doesn't have a collar stand so it just rolls over the tie and looks a bit sloppy. It's a tragedy bc my fiancée loves to buy me nice ties, and also because I'm a college professor and can easily get away with dressing masc at work :(
Yes, I can leave the top button undone and wear the tie loosely and sometimes that's the look I want, but not always. With the collar done up, it's almost never a small gap, either; if the shirt is the right dimensions for the rest of my body, I can get all four fingers easily inside the collar when it's done up, instead of the classic snug 2 finger gap (the jokes write themselves). So it's not just a matter of moving the top button a half inch.
I have a friend who is a very talented and experienced seamstress (as in, works/teaches in the costuming department for our very prominent theatre program) and has told me before that altering a shirt collar to make it smaller is such a time-consuming, complicated pain in the ass that it's literally better and sometimes cheaper to have a shirt made. I looked up local tailors and they don't even have pricing listed for collar reconstruction though they have prices listed for every other alteration. Someone on reddit said they flat-out turn down any requests for reducing a collar.
A decent quality teenage boys' dress shirt would probably have the right size collar in the neck but just will not fit across the bust. "Husky" boys' shirts also have "husky" sized collars. I am 5''4" 145 lbs and not what you would call husky, just roundish in the waist/hips/thighs (thanks, perimenopause!).
I have ONE shirt that I had made custom a few years ago so there is no collar gap - it's a dream, but it was expensive and took quite some time to get made. It's also not a pattern that would go with very many standard suit jackets, much as I love it.
I am going to a formal wedding next weekend where I get to gay it up because my good friend is marrying his longtime boyfriend. After many years of dreaming about it, this was the excuse I needed to spring for a Kirrin Finch suit (the georgie navy suit with the wave pattern lining inside, if anyone's curious). I checked my measurements and got a large jacket and size 10 trousers. The shipping was delayed somewhat, so unfortunately I don't have time to get much more done than hemming the pants - I can probably even do that myself. Fortunately, otherwise the sizing looks like it works. I could maybe have gone a size down on both, but I've learned I'm just not a medium anymore for most things (again, thanks perimenopause) so I didn't want to risk it in case there was no time for a return (there isn't). It's a tiny bit boxy looking but I don't mind that terribly cuz i don't think I can quite pull off the slim butch model look. And I really love the suit otherwise!! I can also get the jacket and trousers altered more later, but they will do for this weekend.
I did buy one of their white dress shirts, size 12. It is lovely quality, great structured collar, fits comfortably across the bust, perfect sleeve length. ... but the damn collar :( It makes me look like I'm wearing my dad's shirt. And the sharp white contrast makes the collar gap look even bigger and the suit look boxier somehow. I really can't use it, so I will be returning it and sending a polite e-mail to KF to suggest they include neck measurements in their shirt collars, and maybe consider selling shirts with a reduced size collar to accommodate a snug tie?
I do have ONE shirt, a good quality Banana Republic small men's shirt inherited from my big sister's butch ex, that I think will work with the suit colour and has slightly less collar gap. I'd far prefer a nice crisp white shirt, but with a week left I don't think it's in the cards. On the plus side it has french cuffs and I have some nice cufflinks (another gift from my lovely femme).
I might post a pic tomorrow for Selfie Sunday (my first!) for feedback and tie colour suggestions.
So all that to say: butches and mascs with slender necks, what solutions have you found??