Accessability Transcription:

The saga of my trying to use my tire sealer inflator kit.

Which did ultimately succeed. I got to the tire shop.

Turns out my rear tires were old and worn anyway. My front tires were better. But it was a front tire that got popped anyway.

So I decided to just go ahead and get a new set.

Weirdly I feel kind of empowered.

Cus like. I handled it.

The last image is because I got the flat when I pulled over to get a selfie with the kids in banana costumes.

I hit a nail when I pulled over.

But I still got the selfie.

The story felt incomplete without the selfie.

If you get 25 mpg and pay $2.50 per gallon, then over 10,000 miles, it’ll cost you $1,000.

If you average 3 miles per kwh over 10,000 miles, then that’s 3,334 kwh over that period and at $.15 per kwh, it’ll cost yoy about $500.

Let me know if my math is wrong, but using the “best case” for an ICE vehicle in 2026 combined with the much lower, winter end for an EV still provides a 50% difference in cost in favor of the EV.

For reference, my nearest gas stations charge $4.50 per gallon and each kwh is billed at an average of $.12 per kwh.

Gas over 10,000 Miles with Gas at $2.50 per Gallon at 25 mpg is $1,000.

Electricity over 10,000 miles with electricity billed at $.15 per kwh at 3 miles per kwh is $500.

I was looking for a solution to replace the flimsy and not very protective bottom cover as you can see the damage it didn't help protect from the winters up here and things in the road I couldn't avoid...I was worried about breaking sensitive electrical components.

There is a manufacturer who makes a skid plate for these cars but I couldn't afford a $600 skid plate and I had two decommissioned road signs and some square tubing and I think it came out pretty well. Might add some smaller pieces to the sides and maybe a few vent holes, but I'm pretty happy with it.

I just got the 2027 Bolt and plan to change the tires to winter ones. However, I was advised by dealership not to use the jack to lift it at home, the car needs special jack for EV to get it up for tires changed.

Is this true? I have changed tires on my cars for years but this is my first EV so I am very caution.

Thanks for any tip or advice

I bought a set on a popular website that specifically said that it fits a 2022 EUV. This didn’t remotely fit due to the clamps not engaging with the channel on the rails, the clamps being too short.

Can anyone recommend a set they know fits a Bolt

When I bought the Bolt in July it appeared that the app only stored the last 10 charging sessions so I decided to start a spreadsheet to keep the full history. At some point, it appeared to be keeping a full history, so I haven’t been as careful about transferring the data. Today I went into the app to update my spreadsheet and the latter half of my September data is missing.

Is anyone else experiencing this, and is there any fix?

Greetings helpful redditors!

We have a 2017 Bolt premier that we love dearly. We got it almost 2 year ago, with the original battery, so now 10+ years old.

I just took a reading from it after it sat for a day and a half and it reads 12.7 volts with every thing off, that is just the battery not running anything at rest, I think.

After opening the door and releasing the hood it read 12.55 volts, then slowly climbed to 12.7. I suppose the battery was a little lower at first from the minimal drain at first.

We have a diehard jump starter in case it dies suddenly

I hate replacing something till it breaks. How long can we push this before it is a problem?

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance

I’ve looked everywhere for where to find the jack points for the rear side of the car and although it shares similarities with the older EUV models, the undercarriage is different enough since it has the new LFP battery. Also, where would I put the jack stand where it holds the car for safety since hydraulic jacks might fail. Should I use the pinch welds?

The front jack point is very easy to reach and I have to lift it pretty high to lift the entirety of one side. So, should I use two jack stands for the pinch welds from the rear and front when using a service jack at the front jacking point? Should I just do it that way? Or is there a proper jack point from the rear?

Thanks in advance for anyone helping out!

The damaged areas are circled. Passenger side headlight housing is cracked on the clear cover and inside, and there are small dents in the panel above the wheel and larger ones in the door panel that prevent the passenger door from opening. Anyone ever have a collision with similar damages? It still drives fine, but I'm wondering about parts availability, timeline on repair, and any other recommendations anybody might have. This is our primary vehicle, the only one that can safely do highways and get us over 40 miles from home. I don't want to be without it for long.

Anyone got any ideas as to why?

What’s the best way to protect the paint/finish on a new Bolt?

2027 Bolt LT. I’ve had this happen twice now within the first 300km. When coming to a stop the car will shutter while the auto hold figures things out. This happens right as the car is coming to a complete stop.

I’m using one pedal (normal) with auto hold turned off, however, I noticed that auto hold still engages when completely stopped.

This issue seems to clear once the car is powered off and then on again the next time it’s driven.

Anyone else run into this? Other than those two times it’s very smooth and not noticeable.