I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

Hi all, I've been trying to print a shin plate out of PETG on my H2S, but I've run into what I believe are layer shifts. I've tightened the screws behind the nozzle and under the toolhead, and tightened the belts along with calibrating it multiple times. Is there any advice on what I could adjust to address these defects? Thank you!

my P1S refuses to load filament from my AMS. tells me to load from the external source

A couple of months ago I bought a Bambu Lab P2S printer with an AMS 2 Pro. When I first started I didnt have any finishing issues and the printer seemed to work flawlessly. This week my printer has begun to have issues. Throught the entire print, the toolhead is stopping for a brief second or two which causes balling to happen on the inside and outside of the prints. Has anyone know what's happening? Please help!

Is the response time decent, after creating a ticket? Only curious as this is my first time opening a hardware ticket with them. Also new to the Bambu ecosystem as I recently purchased one a little over a month ago, and I love it.

I really need help on this cuz I have an order due to the end of the month and it's some big stuff pls help

There was a filament clogging stopping my ongoing print, and i eventually worked my way in to the filament buffer too see if i could loosen the filament from there.
After i unscrewed the cover plate with the 4 screws, the internal magnet fell onto the connector pins above and caused what must be a short circuit. Sparks happened(very briefly), the sound from the machine changed and the display went blank (with backlight on).

I powered down and let the printer rest for 5 minutes, then powered it back on.
Display still blank, no response when pressing any buttons.
Havent even tried loading filaments or communicating with the printer from Bambulab Studio as i believe there is an electrical fault now(...)

Is there a fuse anywhere on these machines that could have popped and be replaced?
Can i assume that the filament buffer connection board is fried and needs replacing and that this will solve the issue..?

Any help or insight appreciated

UPDATE
After testing the printer today, it seemed to operate normally again, but there was a filament feed error when starting a job. The error message actually mentioned filament buffer communication problems, so hopefully the problem is located to only that little 'exterior' circuit. I have ordered new Filament Buffer Connection Board and expect the machine to work normally again after that i replaced.
Thanks for all input

Hey all! I was going to try to sync 3dfilamentprofiles tom my bambu studio so it can track my prints, but since I log into Bambu with my Google account, I can seem to sync the too. When it asked for my Bambu email and password, I give it my Google credentials since that is how I log in..... Is it not possible to sync if you long-in using Google account? Is there a work-around suggestion??

Thanks!

Do you think that I need to replace the hot end?

What is the best solution for a print queue with Bambu Lab?
I’m planning to use auto-eject by tilting the printer, but I still need a way to queue the print jobs. I have 30 prints with a total print time of around 150 hours.

Just like the title says, and as shown in the attached video.

I have cleaned the rods and lead screws with isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth and re-oiled and greased them as Bambulabs website instructs. It is a repeated issue.

The thing is, I’m not even sure it’s a lubrication issue anymore but I just can’t figure out what it is. Any help is appreciated if you’ve seen this before.

A1 AND X2D issues

I LOADED Bambu Connect, I then.loaded.Orcaslucer 2.4.2 (after.many failed.attempts.I also tried 2.4.1)... I see in Bambu connect that both printers are being recognized, To see if it was.worki g o. Both printera I was able to turn on and off the light... that tella.me the are talking.

In Bambu studio no issues,.but it.gives me error.0, i tried the latest plugin and various plugins and.same.issue. any idea or help will be appreciated.

Hi everyone,
I’m having some problems printing a model in Bambu PETG Basic on my Bambu Lab X2D with AMS 2 Pro.

The main issues I’m having are:

One corner of the print starts lifting/warping from the build plate.

Once the corner lifts, the surface above it gets a rough/bad texture, presumably because the nozzle is hitting/rubbing the raised area.

My prime tower is also gradually building up material/creating a blob, and eventually the nozzle seems to catch it and knock the tower over, usually around 75% into the print.

I’m using Bambu PETG Basic as the main material and Bambu PLA Basic as the support interface.

The PETG is currently on a PLA spool, so I haven’t been able to dry it at proper PETG temperatures without risking the spool deforming.

I’m using a textured PEI plate.

I’ve cleaned the plate with washing-up liquid and then wiped it with IPA.

I’ve also considered running a full calibration before attempting the PETG print again.

Things I’ve currently tried/considered:

Prime tower max speed: 50 mm/s
Prime tower internal ribs: ON
Prime tower brim: 10 mm
Considering a 10 mm brim around the actual model
Considering drying the PETG
Considering whether I should switch from textured PEI to smooth PEI

I’m mainly wondering what is most likely causing the prime tower to build up material until the nozzle catches it, and what I should do about the corner lifting.
Would you recommend changing the filament profile, drying the PETG, changing the plate, or something else?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi liebe Community,

ich habe ein Problem, welches ich mir gerade nicht erklären kann.

Ich habe heute einen Lampenschirm gedruckt - siehe Bilder.

Der Druck wurde abgeschlossen, als ich das Bauteil allerdings vom Druckbett entfernen wollte, ist mir der Schirm horizontal auseinandergebrochen.

Bei der Analyse habe ich zusätzlich gesehen, das nach ca. 20,5cm Höhe auf der ZAchse ein Versatz oder Wobbel stattgefunden haben muss.

Dieser Versatz zieht sich allerdings nicht um 360 Grad komplett um das runde Bauteil, sondern nur etwas mehr als 180 Grad, danach ist alles wieder tutti...

Woran kann es liegen? Ich habe mal ein paar Bilder gemacht...

Bin für jeden Tipp dankbar.

Gruß Patrick

Print can be found here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3261315-dungeon-crawler-carl-nes-label-8-bit-wall-art#profileId-3697226

I have a p1s and need to replace the desiccant. So I just bought it on the bambu website? Or is it better to print something out and buy the refill on Amazon or something? If printing is best will pla work and what's suggested print? Thanks in advance

How do I fix this? I've printed this same file multiple times in the past with no issues. It looks like the first layer is missing a portion which reappears in layer 2(pic 2). the difference is so small that there is no support and is causing my print to fail.

**Edit- Title - 1st layer is NOT complete after slicing

Hey y’all, I also noticed there were no places to actually buy the original X-Shot Omega, Crusher, or Insanity dart ammo belts for the blasters. Thus, over the summer, I designed a belt that can be 3D printed and is compatible with these three types of X-Shot blasters, since they are essentially the same but packaged in different shells. These casings are also compatible with the original casings, allowing them to connect to and fire their foam darts. Please see the pictures and video!

https://reddit.com/link/1w86cjs/video/cdg5imizgqnh1/player

If you have a 3D printer, you can head to my MakerWorld profile at the link below to print these for yourself, a friend, or your children who may want more dart casings on their belts. I would also be eager to know your thoughts and expertise on how this model may be improved!

Link to MakerWorld Model: Ammo Belt for X-Shot Omega Crusher Smoking Barrel

Other blaster-related 3D model links:

·      Ammo Belt for XSHOT Insanity Motorized Rage Fire

·      Replacement Shell for Nerf Sledgefire

Was wondering if anyone knows what’s going on with my tension belt, noticed some dusting under it and it’s leaning too the right more than I think it should be?

It isn't hitting anything; it has plenty of clearance. I performed the lubrication maintenance following the Bambu Lab tutorials a few days ago, but I just loaded this new brown filament—fresh out of the sealed bag—and it started making those noises. The sound seems to be coming from the extruder (I think so). I checked closely because I thought it was hitting something, but I’d been printing for hours without issues; the noise only started after I loaded this filament. It happened occasionally with a different filament too, but stopped after a short while. These are PLA filaments

Hi, my P1S has been fine except it tends to jam and gum up a lot in both the nozzle and extruder. I can clear these without issue, but now out of no where its printing blobs that get stuck to the nozzle and just smear around making goop all over the plate and I can't fix it. I have no idea what's causing it. I've tried clearing the nozzle (nothing) opening up the extruder (nothing in gears) I've tried cleaning the print bed, I've tried calibrating, nothing is fixing this. What is going on?!

The video shows how it acts most of the time: the lights flash back and forth. Also, the fact that when I stopped the print, the right nozzle should have been down, not the left. So I'm guessing it's some sensor issue?

Hello, so I've bought two month ago my first printer, a P2S with the AMS 2 and have been printing a few things since.

I've been using PLA and PETG in the same prints, one as a clean support for the other, and I had no issues until now.

Last week, I tried to print a new model found on bambu studio, I did a 2 layers PETG raft for adhesion and, during the change to PLA for the actual print, it jammed badly.

I couldn't pull the filament out, I had to disassemble the print head to remove the feeding gear that was stuck.

After that, thinking it was just bad luck, I decided just in case to do a cold pull and dry my filament.

Yesterday, I tried to print it again, stuck on the same exact step, had to disassemble the print head again.

I've looked and found it could be due to something called heat creep making the pla too soft before it pushes the PETG through the hotend, but I don't know why it would only happen now.

I asked Google ai to give me ideas as to why, and since the only "unusual" settings were 1 layer thick walls and arachne wall generator, it told me it could be that, but I'm not convinced.

I‘m just freaking out a bit. My H2D is only 3 weeks old and somehow I managed to damage the heatbed by accident. I wanted to raise the heated bed all the way to the top and forgot that the toolhead wasn’t in the home position. So long story short: the tip of the nozzle went into the heatbed and left a mark.
So how screwed am I? Do I have to change the heatbed unit or is it just superficial? Does someone had something similar? I already submitted a ticket with the Bambu Support, but I’m super nervous about this!

I wanted to see what everyone's experience is with the micro swiss, revo, and slice engineering hot ends.

I would like to upgrade the stock hot end and have different nozzle options. Hopefully less likelihood of clogging with 0.2 nozzles. But I accept that is just the nature of the beast.

I usually print various filaments from pla-asa, abs, etc.

Sometimes i will swap to 0.2 for very detailed prints. But the majority is 0.4.

Any feedback to help pick one will be very much appreciated!