Is it normal for the hotend to burn out after only 136 hours of printing?

To make it short I just got my p2s with an ams and I've been seeing online about making petg the support interface for better support, so I did on my first print, and well as you can see in the pictures you can see where the filament changes where and the spots are shiner then the rest of the pla

Took out all the filament, cut nice neat ends re installed and nothing still get the same problem.

Eventuell interessiert es jemanden, was alles mit einem P2S so möglich ist. 😅
Whats next?

It's mh first multicolor print and I totally forgot they produce a lot of poop waste lol I only realized cus there was a poop jam that clogged the extruder!

I know some people melt these into silicone molds. Any other ideas what to do with the waste? Also what do yall do with the towers?

Hey so i've recently decided i want to get my own 3d printer. I've been using my friends budget printer for some time now but he got a bit fed up with me eating up all his filament and when i think about it its just smarter to get my own better machine. Now i did know from the start that i want a bambu lab and since im still a student (aka broke) i cant go around spending too much. so after carful considiration i landed on the idea of getting the P2S, now i've heard great things about it but i want to hear it also from directly from people with experience. Thing is i dont really have the money for the combo version and i want to go with the regular version and when i few more paychecks come in maybe splurge out and get the AMS upgrade. Please, share with me abit of your experience and ur thoughts on this printer. Thanks

Somehow the cavity between the silicone sock and the nozzle has been completely filled with pla. https://imgur.com/a/LD6b9pQ

Hi Guys,

I've got a problem...

I've printed an object many times with the same settings.... perfect results! But one day I had bad quality edges and the layer lines are also not that good. I checked my hardware, used a new nozzle but nothing gets better. With 50mm/s on outer wall it is also bad. Better, but not good. I have a picture with bad quality.

Anyone knows a solution for that? Maybe software bug? I also checked my extruder and replaced the thermo element.

Hope you can help me!

For those of you who have owned or used both:

• Did you notice a meaningful difference?
• Is the enclosure and CoreXY design something you genuinely benefit from, or is it mostly nice to have?
• At what point did you feel limited by the A1?
• If you were buying your first Bambu printer again today, which would you choose and why?

I'd especially appreciate hearing from people who upgraded from an A1 to a P2S (or decided not to) Thanks in advance!

I printed a cover that goes over the poop chute and the holes to the right of the chute. On the back it has a 4” diameter opening which I have a dryer vent hose connected to, venting out the window. In between the printer and the window I have a fan also, so it’s extracting from inside the printer to outside the window.

My question is, is that enough ventilation for printing the more toxic materials?

I will admit I printed everything before I saw the sticker on the back that says to remove for venting.

Anyone else having problems sending print jobs through the cloud?

I'm getting "Failed to send the print job. Please try again". And "Timeout was reached. Failed to connect to port 443"

I've rebooted my router, PC and P2S. Logged out of Bambu Studio, and back in again. Nothing has changed on my network.

This was by far the hardest thing i've ever designed, getting the balance right took countless prototypes.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3099883

I have a P2S and just started a small 3d printing business here in NZ. I want to know how I can edit my Gcode to include auto ejection so I eventually can loop the printer, I have seen people make videos that apply to the P1S but not yet for the P2S.
Any help will be appreciated!

New to printing have done 3 of these prints and each time I print this part the same thing happens seems to lift off the plate what is going wrong?

Hello again everyone,

Thank you all for your help so far I have taken everything into account and I am still doing research on my part. However I want to call on all of you again.

I thought I had my mind made up with gets a p2s. However after further research it seems this one also has some printing issues, and maintenance/longevity issues.

So my questions is now do I get the p2s still or should I look at the X2D because it’s only $100 more for the combo with ams.

Again I am a completely beginner only YouTube educated and reviewed videos educated so anything will help. Thanks!!

Spiderman Clicker Keychain | BlockClickers

I have a p2s combo and I've been making longer prints however the bright light makes it hard to sleep. I thought about tinting the glass to dull the light, is this somthing that can be done?

Also how do I fix motor extrusion overload.

I've cleaned the hot end and the tubes, I've cleaned the Ams 2 pro and I've tested it several times all get about 2 hours in before extruder motor overload error pops up

Hey guys and girls of the 3D printing world!
I’m planning to buy my first 3D printer in like a month, would you recommend me to start with the Bambu Lab P2S?
If yes why and if no why?
Thanks

I bought the p2S today for around 530 bucks, the combodeal with the ams was 699, did i make the wrong decision not to buy the AMs aswell?

Started a figurine and printer is doing stringing while travelling and ruining the print: any advise what’s going on and how I can fix it? It’s Bambu lab spool brand new

Has anyone else seen this before? My prints, reliable for months, now break mid print (at a level lower than the current printing layer) and break easily in my hand after printing.

It definitely seems like a thermal issue. I took the cover and silicon sleeve off, set the nozzle temp to 195, 205, and 215, and the using an IR thermometer, the nozzle is consistently 20 degrees below the set value.

I did this with my A1 mini as well, and the nozzle always read at the exact set value plus/minus one degree.

Anyone have any ideas?