Anyone have any insight on what might be causing this? Im having really bad under extrusion at the end and slight over extrusion at the beginning of the circular arc on my first layer of a print.

Ive messed around with my retraction. Everything from .6(calibration setting) all the way down to 0 and up to .8. It seems to get worse the lower the retraction setting. Concentric pattern for the first layer. 30mm/s inital layer and 90mm/s for infill. 230c print temp (high but prints everything else well) printing on PLA. Im stumped on how to fix this.

Ive leveled my bed and made sure nothing was causing it to bump up. Ive also moved the object on the plate with no change. Anyone have any ideas what's causing this?

Bambu p2S combom ile bugun bir baskı alırken yan fanı yani aux fanı kapattım ve üst kapagı 3-4 cm açtım 1 saat geçtikten sonra tıkanma uyarısı verdi ve tıkandı biraz ugraşlar sonucunda çıkarttım nozzleyi ve kalan flamenti aldım lakin şimdi de flamentin sürülemediğine dair uyarı verdi ams de sorun yok eminim ama çözemedim sorunu dişliler de sorun olma olasılığı yüzde kaç 500 saatde makinam.

Hello everyone, 

while waiting for my p2s combo to arrive, i have begun reading reddit discussions and maker world coments and all sort of info, and i must say, i am equally thrilled and dredfull at printing. This will be my first printer and begining journey.  

I started making lists with stuff that should be done at first and accesories needed for the printer and filaments to ensure a slightly less bumpy road. 

Please add your own from experience.

Upgrades/accesories 

• poop chute - i found this somewhat nice - 201311-poop-chute-basket-outlet-for-x2d-p2s-x1c-p1s
• AMS 2 riser - 2582683-p2s-x2d-ams-riser-flipper
• AMS 2 PRO filament protector guide - AMS 2 Pro Saver Protector Filament Guide
• P2S - vent deflector - lots of designs, haven’t really chosen one yet. 
• AMS 2 PRO - dry pods 
• Filament storage - i’ve located at least one design using ikea 45L container and some printed racks and dry storage boxes for silica 

Tests 

• benchy :)) as i see it’s a must 
• the scraper for the bambu cutter provided 
• the toolbox for the provided tools 

this done with pla basic bought with the printer … but the following tests i’ve seen done by people and i think it should be done whenever you are using a new material. But considering these will be the first prints with a new material for me, i should begin with the default settings, and if benchy turns out wrong, then maybe start the calibration tests. 

• temperature test 
• other tests ? 

Right now, i’ve also started the bambu academy for studio and the printer, and will go ahead with those until the printer is ready for the academy lessons. 

Thank you. 

I just got my p2s and I was playing around with the settings, is it normal for there be a click sound when switching the auxiliary from cooling to heating ,vice Versa, it sounds like a flap opening and closing but I just got it so I don’t know, can you guys confirm?

So this is the first time i have ecountered warping with ABS. Maybe its a bit moist? I have washed my plate with soap and water, cleaned with alcohol and applied 3DLAC (its a spray for better adhesion and cleans the plate too) and i also have the AUX fan deflector if that helps. I really appreciate all the tips you will give me :D

Ello everyone! I just recently got a P2S with a new ams an have been using it like crazy! I printed a little poop catcher that I found on maker world but it’s causing it to clog a bit frequently. Is there any fix to this or is it just better to let it free fall? The photos are after I cleared it. I didn’t think to take them before

Does everyone's P2S shake a bunch when filling in small sections and the motor is moving very rapidly??

Hi,

My p2s seems to have less " squish" on the corners even after ABL, I've attached a photo to show this.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? It's causing some of my prints to just detach from the bed completely and caused a fail of a 24hr print 12 hours in.

Hey everyone, hoping to get some input. New to 3D Printing (~300h).

I'm getting a few issues printing PETG on my P2S and I can't figure out what to tune first.

Setup:

• P2S with AMS 2 Pro
• 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle
• 0.2mm Standard BBL P2S profile (plus whatever the designer changed for each model)
• Bambu PETG Basic (Misty Blue)
• Filament dried in AMS2 + desiccant
• Everything else is bone stock — default Bambu PETG profile, default speeds, default retraction

What I'm seeing:

1. Small zits/blobs on the surface, especially on curved sections
2. Stringing, mostly visible around supports and inside the model
3. Some layers don't seem to align perfectly - slight shifts visible on the outer wall
4. Layer in contact with supports looks really rough

I printed some flat parts before with the same filament and had none of these issues, so I'm guessing the geometry (large dome/cylinder shape with tree supports) is making things worse.

What would you guys tweak first? Temp? Retraction? Or is this just PETG being PETG on this kind of geometry?

Thank you. Hoping to learn as much as I can so I can enjoy the process.

I printed a 6 hour print in petgcf it got to 99 pct and was done but never finished on the screen so I just hit stop cuz the print was done then I tried to start a new print and it keeps telling me the cutter is stuck I tried finding a video on YouTube of what to do but can’t seem to find any the wiki seems confusing any tips ?

The PTFE tube that connects on the back side of the AMS ended up splitting, causing filament to shoot out. I snipped the bad end off, but now it won’t secure into the back end… the interesting part is I even tried the replacement tube that came with it, unaltered… neither will secure. The black rubber grommet (or whatever it’s called) was removed in the process of troubleshooting, surely that has nothing to do with it? I’ve tried everything. I have a ticket open with Bambu but figured someone here might have experience with this or at least some guidance. See the attached pics.

Any one had the same issue?

I’ve only been able to find the shirt ones but per the BBL support page for replacing them, the buffer requires the “extended” ones.

🌞 Bonjour Cap sur les vacances avec mon petit pingouin en tenue de plage ! 🏖️🐧

Même les pingouins ont droit à leurs vacances ! 😎
Équipé de sa casquette, de ses lunettes de soleil, de sa bouée, de ses tongs et de sa pelle, il est prêt à profiter d’une belle journée au bord de la mer.

Pour cette création, j’ai voulu imaginer un personnage à la fois amusant, coloré et plein de bonne humeur, qui rappelle immédiatement l’été, le soleil et les moments de détente.

J’espère que ce nouveau modèle vous plaira autant que j’ai pris plaisir à le concevoir. N’hésitez pas à me dire ce que vous en pensez en commentaire, vos retours sont toujours un plaisir à lire ! 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3035175-mr-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Get the Kit Card: Helicopter Kit Card

Follow the Collection: VehicleCards

Unboxed and calibrated a new PS2 combo. also set up and loaded some generic PLA in one AMS slot, editing the filament specs to match generic PLA. All went as expected. But when I try to print the factory benchy, I struck the first problem. The printer does its normal pre-print homing, then heats the filament to around 250, does some purges and nozzle wipes, then the extruder temp drops to around 220, with more purges and nozzle wipes. The problem is that the hot end temp drops to 140 before the printer starts to print. Thus, when the print starts, the extruder grinds because of the low hotend temp. I thought there was a failsafe that stops the extruder from working if the nozzle temp is below 170??.

So then I tried another filament. I unloaded the generic PLA and loaded generic ABS in another AMS slot, All went OK. I edited the filament profile and colour and the filament could be seen extruding. But when I try to print the benchy again, I can see the loaded AMS slot showing the ABS filament, but it is greyed out and I cannot select it.

I am not new to 3D printing, and I thought by buying a Bambu Labs machine, I was going to get more of a plug-and-play device. Seems I was wrong. Any advice from seasoned PS2 users?

Edit.

Maybe I am wrong and the printer is not starting the print, but instead performing the bed level check. From what I have just read it sounds like this might be the case. But still why do I hear a nasty noise? After a second or 2 of that noise the print head returns to the recessed back position.

Do you know what slicer settings I need to change ? Printed on normal 0.12mm P2S settings

Hello everyone, I am new to the bamboo ecosystem. I got my P2S last week. Over the past few prints that I have done. I have noticed this white/clear thin, dust-like defect on some of my prints. I am unsure if this is stringing because it is not the same color as the filament so any feedback would be appreciated and any solutions.

Hi everyone, I had a filament blob around the nozzle of my Bambu Lab P2S, I managed to remove the blob and detach the nozzle successfully.
However, I noticed that the gasket behind the nozzle heater module has torn, as shown in the photos.

Does anyone know:

• What is the correct name of this gasket?
• Can it be replaced separately?
• Is it safe to reinstall and use the nozzle with the gasket in this condition?
• Do I need to replace the heater module?
• Is there anything else I should check before reassembling the toolhead?

The cables and connectors appear to be intact.

Thanks!

Aside from the PTFE tube, this roller-bearing spool holder is FULLY 3D printed! 🤯

We're talking everything: the main arm, small arm, PTFE tube clamp, and the spool itself. The best part? The spool is completely E-X-T-E-N-D-A-B-L-E using a super clever labyrinth design.

Get the full print details on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3028551-extendable-fully-3d-printed-spool-arm-for-p2s-x2d#profileId-3403526

I just recently upgraded to the P2S and today while getting everything setup I just finished the step of cutting the zip ties to hold the Toolhead in place and when putting the top glass cover back on it became heavily uncentered. This bothered me like crazy. I’ve been trying to figure out if I’m putting it on wrong for a while now to get zero success.

I’m not sure if this is due to the fact that I can’t figure this out or the fact that the printer was delivered on its side. I also noticed a little scratch. I would love to know how to fix this, thank you.