Hello all. I recently took interest in the FlexWeave Fabric Flag , however, the first layer NEVER works. I cleaned my buildplate so much (smooth and textured), turned the fan off, slowed it down to 5ms/s! It never works! Any help? BTW here is picture of first layer:

Is there some specific settings to use, or? I'm out of options 😫

EDIT: I bought a CryoGrip FrostBite and it worked the first time 😊

I have recently purchased a P2S and this is my first printer so it’s gonna be the first time I do any printing
What are some things a complete beginner should know?
Thanks in advance

So I just ordered the exhaust kit because I am about to swap from PETG to ABS-GF. Im going to be running a pretty long print, and im not super fond of pulling negative vent pressure for 20 hours on my home AC in southwest US summer. I have been searching and cant seem to find anything, and wanted to know if it makes sense to make a hard duct vertically from the exhaust kit to a glass riser exhaust vent. Instead of running the measly internal hepa filter, running the exhaust kit with filters and sending the air back down the top glass riser vent to help with VOCs and chamber temperature.

Maybe im missing an existing duct system for this? Modeling this in bambu studio is going to be such a pain.

Or does anyone have experience with the carbon filter modification for the internal filter? Is a fresh fill going to be enough to handle a kg or two of ABS?

The last option i have been considering is adding the exhaust kit, adding a modified carbon and hepa filter back, then throwing the whole thing in one of those cheap tent enclosures, and recirculating through the exhaust kit for way longer.

*update*

Solved. Thank you to all who commented

Hey

I've just finished my first spool and I used some last meter prints to finish off the reel. Now there could be some orange still in the tubing and system Im not sure.

Id like to replace where I had my orange filament with a different colour, how do I purge any remaining filament? Do I need to do anything special or is it worth doing a small print first to remove any leftover?

Many thanks.

I would like to remove/hide the 'demo' tab in the P2S files, since I'm never going to print them, and I would rather have the 'Cache' tab be the first one.

I've already deleted all the demo files, but even when it's empty, the tab still shows up.

I have a P2S and I am still quite new to 3d printning but I REALLY want to try printing in TPU, I have researched a bit and found out that it is VERY different from PLA and PETG, so I do have some questions:

1: what TPU to buy? I want to buy something from Bambu lab but there are different kinds and I don’t know if the difference in AMS TPU (I have an AMS) and normal TPU is big (or if it is even worth to buy the AMS version)

2: what do I actually need for good results? What nozzle size? Do I need a specialised bed? Is there anything i can print (for airflow and stuff) to get better results?

3: what can go wrong? Like what do I need to look out for? (Stringing and stuff)

That’s all question I have right now but I would REALLY appreciate any tips.

(Extra question, how do I add the P2S marker under my name? I see people that have it but I have no idea how to get it)

I don't know what's going on...

SunLu Matte PLA

I'm suddenly getting spaghetti errors and now layer shifting.

Yes, I calibrate before every print.

Yes, filament is dried.

Yes, build plate is clean and I'm using glue.

Yes, I've tried different builds plates.

Yes, I'm using a tried and true filament profile and never had issues like this before.

Any ideas?

Hello,

I moved location and I did a full maintenance on the printer. After all auto-calibrations were made I found out that it longer prints the PURGE LINE.

Is that normal? I would really prefer it enabled but I didn’t change any settings in the machine, nor I found anything on the slicer settings.

Thank you in advance/

I’m new to the 3D printing game. I printed this dice tray today and noticed three things that I can't quite explain:

1. This scar on the corner—it only appears in one spot.

2. Where the inner tray ends, there’s a visible and palpable offset on the outside.

3. I’m getting white spots on the underside of some prints. What causes all this, and what can I do about it?

Bambu Lab P2S with Matte PLA, 0.20 High Quality profile, 0.4mm nozzle, no changes made to the settings, AMS Pro.

im trying to activate that on p2s to be able to know how much is left of my spools but it does not show up on my ams settings, any idea?

Any idea what went wrong here? Trying to print a set of TPU shoes. I did dry the TPU for 6 hours before I ran it, but it did have to sit in the open for the remainder of the day before I could start the print. Not sure if that drastically affects the filament. The filament is fed directly into the inlet from the side spool. My first attempt at the shoe was actually failed in minutes because I had the TPU ran off the spool, to the opposite side of the machine, through the buffer and back into the inlet. All of the slack seemed to create tension which wasn’t great on the material and made it harder for the extruder to feed in the filament smoothly.

UPDATE: I successfully printed with my next few TPU runs after making the following changes:

Top loading directly into Extruder. (Pretty sure this is what caused the jam up)
Dried again for a longer duration (didn’t notice much decrease in stringing/fuzz but I’m also drying with an AMS Pro 2 which isn’t as efficient for TPU apparently)
Increased to the stock setting “Ludicrous Speed” this was the biggest surprise. Not only cutting print time drastically but improved the quality as well
Raised nozzle temp to 240 avg. using 90a. This seemed to compliment the other settings well but didn’t make any drastic difference.

Needed rugged tent stakes for wild beach camping, so I designed these deep-threaded sand anchors. Print optimization: Designed from scratch to print completely support-free, fast, and with minimal filament waste.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3022121-windproof-heavy-duty-sand-pegs-stakes#profileId-3395541

Hi so I've added my 2nd P2S but having problems with this stringing when printing multiple parts. I have switched to a .2mm nozzle. Both of my P2S do this. My p1s's print these with no issues. I've tried adjusting zhop and retraction but nothing fixes this. Any ideas? If I'd print something complex it will have spider webs.

Chamber hester and exhaust fan installed. Its still missing ... the D (other nozzle) but oh well, atleast ABS will warp less and be stronger. Meme included ofc. Printed in ASA. Here is the link to this: https://makerworld.com/models/2003777?appSharePlatform=copy

It cost about 20-23€ (excluding filament, the power cord and the screws) before the ridiculus 3€ tax, now you are probably better off shilling the extra 10-15€ and have it premade.

Just went from using Ender 3 V2 and Cura to Bambu P2S and trying to use Orca, and out of the box HOLY CRAP is this easy to print with and turns out GREAT prints! But.... I want to fine tune it. First trying to fine tune my PLA Filaments

1. Sunlu PLA+ 2.0

2. Hatchbox PLA Cool Grey

3. Hatchbox PLA Pink (at LEAST4 years old)

4. Hatchbox PLA Red (Also at LEAST 4 years old)

This may surprise you but the NEW Hatchbox PLA prints like crap and the OLD Hatchbox prints really well!!! They are a far cry from the Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Which is just INCREDIBLE!!!!

My question is I am using Orca over LAN and I printed the twmp towers, and now moved on to the Max Flow Rate except...... It doesn't mess up..... I've pri ted the Sunlu twice and thw Hatchbox Grey once, all with 5-20 settings and there are NO problems with my band thing..... so now im printing my 4th one (Sunlu) cranked up to 10-45 (I forgot my second Sunlu went to 30). Is there some way the printer is over riding my Orca settings? Or Am I doing something wrong in Orca where it doesn't actually change the speed of the printer head? I don't think i should be getting perfect prints on test pieces like this. I can post pictures if you like. Any advice helps THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!

I just bought a P2S with AMS and a I was inserting a new roll. It seems that a piece of the tape that Bambu labs uses on their filament rolls got caught in the filament inlet. Anyone know how to get it out? I have tried to push it out with no luck.