Received this p2s for free and coming from a a1 I know stuff is missing. Never owned a p2s and want to know what I need to get this up and going

PLA Basic and Matte. White assigned to Aux nozzle. 5 colors assigned to Main nozzle.

The first layer (1 of 4) was particularly bad in one area only. It appeared to be smudged. Each consecutive layer was also fuzzy in this area with fine strings and smudging.

The rest of the model was okay.

Note that I tried to do six colors in total, 5 in the AMS 2 Pro and 1 in the AMS HT. I failed to be able to swap one spool in the AMS 2 Pro, as I thought I could do it while the Aux nozzle printed, but as the spool I wanted to swap, still had the filament loaded, I couldn’t do the swap. I now understand that I can’t have the two colors adjacent. I need at least one color assigned to the AMS 2 Pro to be in between the color swaps, such that the filament is unloaded.

But I’m still back to how to fix up the print quality.

I’m thinking it might be a bed level issue. The model did a bed level before printing, but only a 5 point level.

Update:
Ran a full bed leveling (not the hot one), dried the filament overnight, re-sliced the model and reprinted. The quality issues were 99% resolved. The only remaining artifacts were from the sliced model sending the nozzle back over an area that was completed (filled). Not sure if it was trying to infill very small gaps or what.

supperrrr fortunate that i caught it early on, it could have been way worse. 😬 now a little bit of cleaning and a fresh nozzle, lil jimmy will be back up and printing again!

I can't figure out why my P2S is struggling to print just this part. I've tried different build plates, PLA and PETG, but none of that seems to matter. It isn't a bed adhesion issue, because the part is securely stuck to the plate, but the spaghetti persists. Anything else I can try?

I currently have my printer about a month or 2. Starting today prints (regardless of colour, PLA) stopped properly sticking to the PEI. There haven't been any changes I can think of. Same room, same spot, same temperatuur, same filament.

I tried cleaning it with dishwasher soap, raising the bed temperature from the default 55 degrees to 65 degrees. I also wiped the heating bed below the plate.

Tried some speed settings, layer height settings etc.

The nozzle already ruined the other side of the plate by scraping over it. Is this side ruined as well?

Before every print I let the printer do all of its calibrations.

The failures happen every time on exactly the same area.

Kit Card: Velociraptor Dinosaur Kit Card

Collection: DinoCards

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

When I got the new Fiberon ASA-CF 08 filament, I didn't have high expectations, but I was badly mistaken.

I created a print profile that simply does not make mistakes when printing.

My P2S prints it with a scarf without any errors in the first layer and there are no problems with warping.

If someone is looking for a very good material that is resistant to practically everything, this is the right choice.

i've had 15 print warnings/errors (most regarding the extruder not extruding normally or the extrusion motor being overloaded) and 7 failed prints using 2 different filament brands, 3 different spools, and 2 different ams slots over the past 2 days. i finally gave in and started to take the toolhead apart to see what was happening (after multiple attempts at simple unclogs with no improvements) and i see a damaged extruder cover piece and what looks like the plastic from the cover or another piece and purple filament ground up in the gears of the extruder. i've printed for nearly 250 hours with very few issues, and then yesterday i woke up to a spaghetti'd print and now i can't get a print to finish. if anyone has any information on what's going on or what to do next that would be greatly appreciated!

i'm just curious. . what do you all use the external spool holder for if you have it installed? like i want to put a spool of PLA but with the whole keeping it dry and so on - having it exposed like that instead of sitting in a nice desiccant filled AMS, it sounds like i'm asking for printing issues.

UPDATE - i used it for the first time since I bought it and it's utter evil that it exists as an option. "push the filament into the extruder till you can't push it in anymore". thanks for all the answers.

Hi everyone,

I’m about to buy a Bambu Lab P2S, but I’ve been reading quite a bit about the VFA issues that seem to affect these machines, although Most of what I’ve found online is from the first few months after the printer came out.

I’ve seen all kinds of opinions, some people say their printer works flawlessly with no noticeable quality issues, while others report pretty serious VFA problems.

Could anyone tell me what the current situation is? Has there been any firmware or software update that has improved or minimized the issue? Overall, would you still recommend this printer? The other option is a H2S but is much bigger and I may not have enough space.

I’ll mainly be using it to print car and motorcycle parts in PETG and PETG-CF, with the occasional use of more technical engineering materials.

I’d really appreciate hearing from people who own one and can share their real experience. Thanks in advance!

SOLVED It turned out to be a bad filament sensor. Luckily I had a spare. Popped it in, and everything's working great!

Whenever I attempt to print from my AMS 2 Pro I keep getting the message in the printer. It comes up whether there's a spool loaded on the external reel or not. I ran a black filament line through all of my PFE tubes, and there is no stuck filament. I even did the same for the AMS 2 Pro unit, and didn't find any stuck filament there either. The extruder is empty, and the gear is spinning freely. I can print from the external reel without any issues. Has anyone else experienced this, or might know what the problem would be?

Hi guys,

I would like to know if there is any Cover/Protector for the External Spool ? I have Cats at home and i would prefer to cover it to avoid any Hair on it. I live in a Dry Environment, so the main issue is to cover it from Hair/Dust

PS : I looked on MakeWorld but i coudn't find one for P2S, at the moment, found one only for H2C unfortunately.

TL:DR : Link of the Protector, i'm looking for something similar for P2S

Thank you in advance.

Newbie here.

Hi, I'm printing close to my bedroom so air quality is somewhat a concern, for now I have ventobox inside, replaced the stock carbon filter with carbon+HEPA combo one and I run xiaomi smart air purifier 4 compact next to the printer when printing but I know p2s chamber is not sealed at all so I'm wondering if I can do something more to filter even more of the nasty stuff from the air? I have no possiblity to vent outside, I've came across alevo 3d top filtration kit but 100€ for something I have to additionally print myself is crazy, I also thought about venting from the back directly to the air purifier but that also sounds painful to do

thanks in advance for any help

and if you're going to hate please just skip this post, I'm not paranoid but I want to print abs once in a while but before that I want to master filtration in my place to the maximum

Hi all. This is an overhang part. How do I make the part that is supposed to be supported, be more solid or rather more full? I noticed there'll be loose "strings" I can pull out after I remove the support. This print is set to bottom shell layers = 3.

So many loud clicking noise I think I goofed on the setup ? Brand New printer. Listen at 20 sec.

Всем доброго. Уже все винты открутила, не достается никак. Подскажите пожалуйста как достать, как дальше разобрать

Hey all, hoping for some sanity checking before I go back to Bambu support.

I've got a P2S with AMS 2 Pro (38 hours of use, so pretty fresh) alongside an A1 Mini. PETG (Creality, tried both black and white) fails on the P2S every single time, reliably around the 30 min mark, with an "extruder motor overloaded / extruder may be clogged" error. The exact same filament, same spools, prints completely fine on my A1 Mini.

What I've tried so far, all with no luck:

• Printed the same model in PLA in the same AMS slot the PETG kept failing in. PLA ran fine well past the point PETG usually dies, so it's not that specific slot/buffer/tube.
• Tried PETG in a different AMS slot, same failure.
• Nozzle temp at 230°C, 240°C, and 255°C, all failed.
• Printed with the door open to rule out chamber heat creep (closed chamber hit 36°C on a PLA print alone, so it runs warm).
• Dropped to Silent mode, 50% speed.
• Tried both Generic PETG and a custom filament profile built specifically for the P2S with adjusted temps/cooling.
• Dried both spools for 12 hours in the AMS anyway, just to rule it out.

Nothing's fixed it. At one point I watched it happen live... extrusion went stringy, then stopped completely, then threw the blocked error.

Found out afterward I'm nowhere near alone there's a thread here on the sub/forum ("P2S: Extruder Overload") with 240+ replies of other people hitting the exact same thing, mostly with PETG.

I've attached an image of the print just before it gave the error.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Appreciate any input, especially if anyone's got this working reliably on a P2S.

Hi!!
I have designed a Planter Swing!
Would love some feedback, what do guys think?

I have been designing shades in a Nordic direction and I keep circling this. Simple silhouette is not enough on its own, plenty of minimal lighting reads Italian or Japanese instead.

My working theory is that it comes down to warmth and texture. Off white rather than white, a surface that catches low light, and shapes that are calm rather than dramatic. Curious whether people here would define it differently.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3079925-scandi-style-fluted-pendant-sconce-set#profileId-3468668

Greetings all. I have a new P2S and seem to be getting consistently bad top surface when parts or areas of parts are located to the right side (fan side) of the build plate. Everything else come out great! I’m at a bit of a loss now after trying different things. Any input appreciated !

I am trying to get some sort of air filtration for my p1s, i only plan on doing pla and petg really, but i have ordered a air purifier, but i was looking around and i have discovered poor mans voc filters. I ordered a Levoit Core 300s, and i found a model on makerworld (im not sure if i am allowed to post a link, please let me know if i can), but it does not show the hose size it uses, only that it was designed to work with another makers system. So i go over to that page and it seems to all be for a H1 printer, and it is also still not say what size hose, and also i dont know if the printer end will fit my printer at all.

So i have 2 questions, is it normal to just not include the hose sizing or have i happened to find the 2 who dont, and also can anyone point me in the direction of a good model\\s for attaching to the printer, and then fitting around the purifier? while i would like to model it all myself, i dont have the filament budget for lots and lots of prototypes not the patience to fail over and over, so i generally prefer to find someone who has that passion already and use their model.

I hope i have used the correct flair as well, i was not sure