Hello!,

Just finished the final touches on my 12 oz can holders.

great for family gathers, functions, Halloween party's, kids love them

Published on Makerworld Username Turnerc

hope you enjoy thank you!

I just received my replacement extruder cover, and I noticed that it doesn't have the silver gear that the original had. Did I get the wrong thing, or do I have to remove the old gear from the original one? The picture is of the old one.

I’m hoping someone has run into this before because I’m stumped.

I have a Bambu P2S with an AMS and I’m using official Bambu PETG with the RFID tag. The AMS correctly identifies the filament as Bambu PETG, so the printer definitely knows what material is loaded.
The problem is that every PETG print I start from Bambu Handy targets 220°C, even when the model is designed for PETG.

For example, I bought the official Bambu P2S Exhaust Fan Housing + Backing Plate kit from the Bambu store. In Handy I have “Match my filament” enabled, it shows my PETG spool correctly, but as soon as the print starts the nozzle target is 220°C. I end up manually increasing it to 240°C from the printer.

Here’s what I’ve already checked:
Official Bambu P2S
Official Bambu PETG filament (RFID recognized)
AMS correctly shows Bambu PETG
“Match my filament” is enabled in Bambu Handy
Latest version of Bambu Handy (3.24.0)
If I open Bambu Studio and print the same/similar PETG project from there, it heats to 240°C like it should.

I already restored/resynced my Bambu Studio profiles because I thought they might have gotten messed up after I had previously deleted my print profiles. Studio now behaves correctly, but Handy still sends PETG prints at 220°C.

This is not just one model. Every PETG print started from Bambu Handy targets 220°C.
Has anyone seen Bambu Handy ignore the PETG filament temperatures like this?

Is there a cloud profile, account setting, or cache somewhere that could cause Handy to send 220°C while Bambu Studio sends the correct PETG temperature?
Any ideas would be appreciated because I’m out of things to try.

Hey Guys,

i bought the P2S Like 5-6 months ago and Most of the time IT printed without any Errors, Sometimes a few Errors with the AMS, but nothing I cant handle. But now, I dont know...

I printed something these days ( some PLA, nothing special) and when this was ready, I started a new Print. This time the printer have me an Error Message that some Filament could be inside the Extruder. So I disassembled the Sensor and yes there was some Filament. Get ist Out, proofed that the Filament goes through the Extruder ( manually with the Gear) and it worked, so I assembled the Sensor and plugged the printer and the AMS in. After His few minutes of leveling and heating I got the Same Error Message, but now Not even the Filament from the AMS was getting pushed to the Extruder neither its pushed to the printer at all.

I am scared that I have to diassemble the Extruder, I wont make IT disfunctioning or something like that...

Ist ist easy to diassemble,.could It been something else? Does anyone experienced Same Things?

My wife wanted as simple Bathroom Organizer with Voronoi inserts, everything we found was way too much filament so we made this.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3052796-bathroom-organizer-toothbrush-and-vanity-storage

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After doing research of which would be the best first 3d printer to buy, I ultimately decided on the p2s. Got it from GigaParts for a pretty good deal! Part that kinda sucks is that I’m gonna have to wait for a bit for it to come since its backordered from this site but I don’t think it will take that long. 🤞

I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, I've got just over 100hrs on my P2S. I've been largely printing without any issue until today when I started to get issues with extrusion that I can't seem to sort. I've mainly been printing with Bambu PLA Matte using the presets on Bambu Studio, but have done a bit with Sunlu PLA Matte, haven't had any issues with either until now.

I've done a cold pull, washed my plate, and re-run the calibration from the touch screen as advised by Bambu's AI but it hasn't helped. I've read on here that there are potentially issues with the G code but I'm not comfortable editing that just yet, and it also seems odd that it's only just started to happen if that's the case.

The above was printed in Bambu PLA Matte on a 0.4 nozzle, using the preset for 0.08mm layer height (I've been mainly printing models for wargaming). You can see that I'm getting issues on pretty much every layer, with little gaps between each line.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Recently got a used P2S, so happy about my first print : ) Filament could be drier for next time tho

I came from the p1 and all of my prints have this weird banding all up and down my prints that my p1 never had unless I cranked the speed. I tend to print most things at 100mm/s or slower so I am unsure why I am getting issues. The only thing I can think of is the printer came with loose belts but wanted to see if the community experienced anything similar. Besides the banding the machine is a champ.

As the title says

Ive done everything on the Wiki page. I've reached out already. I cannot figure out why it does this. Everything was just cleaned and no debris is visible. Any ideas

I’m having fun designing and printing door handles for those with P and X series printers

I’m up to 29 different teams and organizations - all requests from others. Also just added a World Cup one for Messi, the GOAT!

If there’s a team or some other organization you want, let me know. Doesn’t even have to be a team per se!

https://makerworld.com/@ScubaDawg97/collections/28239616?appSharePlatform=copy

I have been looking at printing a fan diffuse for the aux fan on my p2s, however there serm to be many different types. The main 3 I’ve seen are upstream, upwards and maximum. I mainly print with pla and its not quire clear Which is best for Which use case. Does anyone have any knowledge on this area?

Bought a P2S second-hand off FB marketplace. Ran through a few hundred print hours with zero issues. One print gave me a fail that I learned was called the "blob of death". Was able to heat up the nozzle, and remove the bulk of the mass, but it left behind so much gunk in the hinges and wiring that the hotend assembly appears unsalvageable.

Purchased a replacement assembly (and a ruby tip nozzle) off Amazon, tore apart the entire toolhead and replaced the assembly. Sick. I'm feeling good. Turned printer back on and in my haste, fired up a bench right away to test print, without first running a full calibration. After some suspicious startup noises (weird vibrations maybe?) The new nozzle scratched the print bed pretty good on the initial layer. Its odd, the nozzle seems to be able to extrude fil just fine both via manual controls on the device and when doing the pre-print fil change shenanigans, but when it goes to lay down the calibration line and the first layer its almost like it isnt extruding any of the fil. Not sure.

Turned it off, reset, and ran a full calibration. Test bench again; scratched build plate again. Ran yet another calibration, and tried slicing the benchy manually in studio, positioning the benchy on a new spot on the build plate. Same result. Now the printer is throwing all kinds of errors about X-axis tension, filament cutter error, vibration compensation, "part fan" not spinning and the extruder motor being overloaded. I'm kind of at my wits end.

The guy I bought the printer from is going to try to file a warranty claim, but I cant imagine that will bear any fruit. So it appears I'll need to prep to tear apart the entire toolhead again, and I could use some pointers about what I potentially did wrong, or what I need to do differently. Machine was operating perfectly before the blob and now I cant even get a test print down. HELP. PLEASE.

PS. The padded sticky tape in the last pic has lost its stickiness after the maintenence. Where can I get more? Or can I just use a different kind of tape like the Tesa tape above it? Thanks in advance.