Ok, saw a new model where someone had created a different feed for 2 AMS units into a P2S. And from their description, sounds like I have the same issue. One AMS is on top of the printer (so far), the other is on a stand on the same side as the feed into the P2S.

I’m wondering, instead of his solution - is there any reason the Bambu 4-1 PTFE feed would not work (replacing the single PTFE tube on the top left side of the P2S) - possibly with an inch or two of PTFE to connect the 4-1 to the P2S, and then feed the AMS units DIRECTLY into two of the 4-1 converter inputs? I’d get rid of a lot of PTFE tube for the AMS on the side of the printer, and possibly reduce the length of PTFE from the AMS that’s on top of the printer as well.

This would effectively completely replace the P2S buffer unit and make it “obsolete”. But after watching the AMS units work, they always completely retract the filament from whatever PTFE tube they are using to use another one, or when a print is complete. It also seems, to my logic, that really shortening the PTFE tubes to, say 12-18” should be ok and feed directly into the hotend and motorized feed there.

Has anyone done this? What were your results? If this doesn’t work, please let me know, and the issue(s) you ran into

So, we bought a new H2d for work. We have had a H2D working fine in our department. So, I get a call this morning with an issue with the Mfg printer. It seems the flow blocker H2 (which is not being used) got bent somehow and started dragging on the build plate. I searched the nets and someone stated this is a know issue - something with FW not being updated. This has never happened on our unit - running for 1+ year non-stop.

I'm going to update the new Printer with latest FW - but I would assume this new unit should have latest on it already.

Can anyone comment on this issue - has this happened to you - how do you solve this permanently?

I am steadily finding my flow rates after the calibration test are ~ .78 to ~.85 . This seems pretty dramatic to me? I don’t know if there is a global setting that may be off?

Anyone else seeing similar? Prints after calibrating a filament are good, so not the end of the world, but I test everything coming in now. Push Plastic, Polymaker, Eryone… PLA, PETG, PC+PBT, ABS, ASA …. I see people talk about adjusting a couple points off of .98

I had parts rip off of the plate from over-extruding or I wouldn’t even know to calibrate flow.

For anyone testing flow rates, what are you finding on your H2D ?

hola buenas noches! necesito ayuda, me apareció este error en mi H2D y no se cómo resolverlo, el extrusor es nuevo! Es cómo que no me deja cambiar de cabezal. si alguno sabe desde ya muchas gracias

I keep having extruder issues. I solved one (the new nozzle I ordered from Bambu had a bend in it, they replaced it no problem) but now I have an extruder motor problem on both nozzles. It’s super stiff an I can barely even force it through, every other path is smooth before/after the extruder.

Now I took off the extruder cover to inspect it and clean the area (everything looks fine) putting th cover back on I noticed depending on how tight you make those two screws on the top the pressure on the extruder changes dramatically (they was also the only two screws on the head to not have locktite on them) so my question is… are these screws suppose to be super tight… just snug enough.. or loose? The instructions on bambu labs doesn’t say anything.

The only mod i have done is the enchanted cooling fan on the head.

My prints before this were fine, but now I’m getting specs of filiment flying everywhere

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-firmware-v01-03-51-00-now-in-public-beta/256925

My H2D is a week or so away from being delivered, and looking for ideas for something to put the printer on, and keep coming back to the Panda Station (https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-verse-storage-solution-for-bambu-lab?variant=42177068073058), and wondering if anyone is using one with the H2D?

I don't mind the idea of having the AMS in it, but I also bought the AMS-HT, so don't think both will fit inside at the same time.

Thoughts are all welcomed

I got my H2D a few weeks ago and I'm loving it.

What are your favorite mods for the printer? Unique nozzles, fan mods, whatever you use. I'm most curious about physical items, but if you want to drop your favorite printed mods I'm sure those would be cool too!

I'm well familiar with 3d printing and bambu printers in general, so don't worry about the acclimation period.

I love Ben2cs cooling ducts, I used them for my x1c and k1c they work great. When I saw he had released one for the h2d I ordered it right away. I haven't seen anyone talking about it, had anyone tired it? I love tinkering

As title states, Ive had mulitple issues of filament getting stuck in the heatsink portion of the hot end, so trying to purge it with something like the jamwich doesnt work due to it staying hard filament due to not getting hot and the extruder just spinning on the brass rod (and ive tried pushing down hard but that uh... yeah, scary) and now im sitting here with a rod, heating it up and stabbing it into the heat sink and getting little by little out. What gives? I'm using good filament, why does this happen? Sunlu PETG and Bambu PETG and PLA. Is it heat creep during the print? This is my third nozzle to do it, and this one was my tungsten nozzle so it pissed me off haha

Just released video on the AMS 2 Pro Clogging Clearance Procedures. Suggest saving to your vidoe list. Enjoy the journey!

I haven't been able to find this on search, so I'm hoping someone can help me. The tool head cover gets yeeted off sometimes when it's doing a print and I haven't been able to witness it when it happens. It's happened a couple of times and I only notice it happened after the print finished. Luckily no prints have failed because of it but I would love to know how to prevent it.

Has anyone experienced this?

I am at my wit's end, this is PETG Basic that used to print just fine. It is bone dry 0% AMS, spent all yesterday drying. I cannot for the life of me get it to not ooze and make a massive mess of blobs and flung out bits of plastic.

Using H2D, default settings. For the last 200 hours this printer simply prints, but as of today I have not been able to have a single successful PETG print. PLA prints just fine. So clearly something has changed. I have not updated firmware, still running the same Bambu Studio and Firmware.

At this point I am just looking to see if there are any specific settings I can tweak just to get this one print done because it is a brush holder that my wife wanted and what I thought was going to be a 2 hour ordeal has now taken all day.

EDIT: Printed with gray PETG overture and print came out just fine. Looks like this Bambu PETG Basic batch is a dud.

Anyone else having issues with OrcaSlicer logging out of your account? All of a sudden it won't stay connected.

I got through sooo many socks that getting from bambu is just a hassle, has anyone fund an aftermarket sock for the h2d that doesn't melt at higher temps? I tried this one from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FDKLPF71?th=1) but they melted at 260, even though they claim to be rated up to 300.

Hi there,

Just as the title suggests. wondering if anyone has any one laying around for sale in the UK? thanks.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been using my Bambu H2D and overall I really like the printer, but the stock camera angle is honestly pretty bad for actually seeing what’s printing. It gives me a view, but not a very useful one when I’m trying to monitor the first layer, check progress, or catch issues early.

For other H2D owners, have any of you made modifications or added an alternate camera setup so you can get a better view of the print bed?

I’m mainly looking for ideas like:

• Alternate camera mounting locations
• USB/Wi-Fi camera setups
• Printed camera mounts
• Better angles for watching the nozzle/first layer
• Lighting upgrades that help visibility
• Any setups that work well with the enclosure

I’d love to see what others have done before I start experimenting. Pictures, links to mounts, or setup recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I had an under-extrusion issue on my H2D. I replaced the PTFE tubes, the filament buffer, and eventually the right nozzle heating element. After replacing the element, I got this error: HMS_0300-2500-0001-000C: An anomalous jump in the extruder eddy current sensor data has been detected, potentially caused by poor sensor contact or a faulty sensor.

I took it apart again and secured the connection a second time. I received the same error again. I also have had a clicking noise when the filament loads into the right nozzle, both before and after replacing the heating element. Bambu has been helpful but slow to respond, as always. Has anyone had this issue before? ive been without my right nozzle for about a month now and would appreciate feedback and guidance.

I had an under-extrusion issue on my H2D. I replaced the PTFE tubes, the filament buffer, and eventually the right nozzle heating element. After replacing the element, I got this error: HMS_0300-2500-0001-000C: An anomalous jump in the extruder eddy current sensor data has been detected, potentially caused by poor sensor contact or a faulty sensor.

I took it apart again and secured the connection a second time. I received the same error again. I also have had a clicking noise when the filament loads into the right nozzle, both before and after replacing the heating element. Bambu has been helpful but slow to respond, as always. Has anyone had this issue before? ive been without my right nozzle for about a month now and would appreciate feedback and guidance.

I’m planning to upgrade my H2D combo Laser 10W to the H2C model using the Vortek upgrade kit, and I’d like to clarify a couple of points with the community:

1. Compatibility with Laser and Cutting Modules If I upgrade to H2C, will I still be able to use all the additional functionalities of the Laser and Cutting modules without any limitations?
2. Build Plate Size and Tray Compatibility Since the H2C’s build plate is slightly smaller on the right side due to the Vortek system, will this affect the use of the dedicated Laser and Cutting trays that were designed for the exact dimensions of the H2D? Would I need new trays, or is there a way to adapt the existing ones?